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Armorcast resin is resistant to paint removers. Like any paint remover, test on a small inside piece. You want to test the remover on a type of resin. As long as you don't let it sit too long, Heavy body paint stripper will work.

The PineSol and Simple Green cleaners should work, they work on metal figs. I found a product.
"Simple Green, Brush and Roller gel." This is some strange stuff. It seemed to remove paint 1 layer at a time. It could be the reaction to my many layers of paint to be removed. It is Safe and no chemical smells. I soaked a piece of Polyurathane resin for a few days to see if it damaged the part. It is OK, the remover did not harm the part. I got it at "Home Depot". A hardware store in your area should carry the product. With most paint removers, you will need a small wire brush, maybe a old/used hard bristle tooth brush. I do not own any ForgeWorld,Uk products, so I have not tested it on their resin. Please Post your results.-Resinmann,David

If the paint stuck your fingers it might not have dried enough .

Also , PineSol , Simple Green , and if this is a metal model , brake fluid(warning : Medal models only , unless your willling to do through the trouble of thinning it out and still have a chance of it melting ..) will do the job of stripping it .

rubbing alcohol is the best stripper ive used

I had the same problem, after watching several people build FW resin, I believe that sometimes casts are just bad (even though they look fine). To this day I know that if I take a penny to parts of my titan-it will still just flake off. It has nothing to do with how well you clean it.

And why is this an article?

Probably an article because somebody couldn't figure out how to post it as a forum post.

I have never had a problem with Brake fluid hurting a plastic model as it comes in a plastic bottle. I use a hard toothbrush to take paint right off the model ..I have left plastic minis in a plastic container with brake fluid in it.. then come back a few days later remove the mini scrubbed with a toothbrush and viola no paint.. for plastics its the only thing I use to restore painted used minis I obtain..

Simple Green will actually fog plastic clear parts.. so be carefull.. Pinesol and 409 can remove paint also.. but I have only done that on metal...

As far as getting the mold release off of the resin parts.. use dishwashing liquid that says it removes grease in warm water.. then rince off.. i work with resin every week.. as I cast resin parts for different projects..

I have been a member on this forum for quite some time I just dont post very often.. I have built resin kits for 20yrs and Cast Resin parts for 10 yrs..so I do have some experience in these matters..but I am sure there are more experienced modelers than I that can chime in also..

Alas with any advice .. do your own experiments and try the suggestions on a test piece or small item if possible nothing is fullproof and what works for some may not work for all.. good luck..

Hands down super clean works better on plastic then anything else.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

I think everyone has covered stripping the model properly and that's all good. As to priming it, you have to use a pretty heavy duty primer to make it adhere well to the surface. I always use a high adhesion etch primer to do the job. It eats into the surface just that little bit so that it gets a pretty good grip on it and it also tends to chew through any remaining mould release.

I have even used the etch primer directly over the resin parts without cleaning and it seems to hold, but I do NOT recommend you do that because I would hate for you to spend the time and money only to be disappointed.