Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Thanks for the perspective shot! I'm kind of glad you didn't finish the model right off, seeing the other side of the first step was really helpful. Your not kidding when you say it only takes a thin layer of the stuff to make a stable sculpting base. .

Also congrats on your win!

This really is an excellent tutorial. Using GS/Procreate is really a tricky process to learn by trial and error, and this cut directly to learning!
Thank you sir!

Congrats on the win whatwhat! You deserved it

Just wondering if we can expect any more any time soon? Could use some help with scales and dread locks myself

well won

Brillant tips, really really awesome, you definitley desevered the win!!!







ps Woop for living in Cumbria!!!

Congrats on winning Whatwhat!

Congratulations on the win.
His halberd looks like a nemesis force weapon.

Hey i'm actually wondering if anyone would know a good way to make a combi melta out of green stuff, from a twin linked bolter, chaos terminator variant. any tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks

Well, not really priorly researching the bolter in question, i'd say start with something like a paperclip for a strong internal structure, and then add gs consistently around it till you like it, then getting the trademark melta holes while the gs is still wet. But that's just my figuring

You can cast using a pen-cap, it isn't all that hard to get a nice shape just make sure to coat the green stuff with petroleum jelly before inserting it using a paper-clip armature into the pen-cap. As long as you applied the petroleum jelly generously the pen-cap should easily slide off.

For smaller guns simply use a coffee straw (one of the tiny red ones, and yes they are very free ) filled elmers glue. Stick the straw into a clump of white-tac putty so the glue can dry. After the glue dries, prep some green stuff and make cardboard thin sheets out of it. A lump the size of the end of your pinky should give you enough green-stuff pie crust to fully coat an entire coffee straw with some to spare for details. Make your melta nozzle marks with anything that suits your fancy really. You can use old pens that are held together in a PVC pipe frame, you can measure it and do it by hand, etc...
After you have done the nozzle marks, trim the pie sheet so it is 1 inch shorter than the coffee straw, it should be around 4 inches long and about 1 1/2 inches wide. Take the now dried glue coffee stick and place it along the long edge of the prepped green stuff. Roll the green stuff around the coffee straw, making sure your melta nozzle marks are visible on the outside. Trim the excess green stuff and clean the seam up with a rounded metal tool coated in petroleum jelly.

One stick can make at least 20 melta nozzles, the rest of the gun can be framed with either a tiny bit of aluminum foil using a pair of needle nose pliers, or made from pen-caps (if you can find ones small enough to make such tiny guns). After making the frame for the gun simply clean up the appearance with some green stuff; I would recommend brown stuff for very detailed machinery bits. Green stuff is no where near as good at being sanded and filed as brown stuff is.

If you want to, you can make a mold using a mix of 1 parts milliput to 1 parts green stuff. Just mix the two together after independently mixing them, stick the mix into a small metal jar-lid (leave the rubber lining in the lid). After making the surface as even as possible by using some water to smooth the surface take your scratch-built gun and lay it on waxed paper, put petroleum jelly on everything but your eyeballs . The gun to be molded will need a built in port using a sprue bit attached to the handle of the gun or something if you plan to use the mold for a "liquid" cast. Now simply cast one side of the gun, making sure to get a very solid fit in the green stuff. Wait around 6 hours at least then cast the second side using the same method.

You can use this mold to cast with just green stuff, simply take a clump of green stuff, coat the mold generously with petroleum jelly, and press the green stuff into shape with the mold. With a bit of practice you will easily get the hang of this.

OR

Simply do something like this... http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/239553.page

aswom


Automatically Appended Next Post:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/a634d4056bc15b21ef25d1960801aa76.gif

Lord of battles wrote:aswom


Automatically Appended Next Post:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/a/a634d4056bc15b21ef25d1960801aa76.gif

Assworm?
I doubt thats appropriate for the level of quality for this tutorial...

My flgs is having an event soon where you build yourself as a guardsman and I was wondering if you could post a tutorial on gun slings to actually fit across the neck and shoulder.

Ok I shall try and get that in my next one. What I would do though is actually not too different from the second picture in the purity seals bit.

Outstanding Tutorial.

Hi Whatwhat...not been on for a while (work, computer games...building tons of drop pods and rhino's lol). Congrats on the win...well deserved. ; )

where do I find miliput? Is that what its called in the states?
Same goes for the "green stuff".

Green stuff you can find at most hobby stores.

Krimmsonscurge, as far as I know milliput goes by the same name in the US. You might have to look online as I do as I don't know of any local suppliers where I am.

Green stuff is what GW call kneadatite, they sell overpriced versions of it in their stores but if you want to save yourself some cash search for kneadatite online and you can get some better deals.

I've seen Milliput at Hobby Lobby stores here in Texas.

Excellent Tutorial. I could use this to creat extra long purity seals.
Maybe make them larger for dreadnoughts and other vehicles.

THANKS for these tutorials i plan to do them!!!

BTW i made mini molds for little details like the skull and crossbones on a bolter or lascannon, and skulls from bolters. i jsut took a GS lump and pressed it on it, so its pressed in there, petroleum jelly would work to prep the mold so i can push GS into it without the GS sticking?

I'm a huge greenstuff noobite and am attempting to use it to make some masks for old metal guardsmen and, even though not directly covered, there are some great tips for me to take away from this.

Many thanks!

Hmm, I can feel my fear of sculpting fading away...

Brilliant! Thanks!

Great tutorial, gives me some really good idea to liven up my SM army...

Congratulations! This tutorial has opened many doors for me, thanks.

You have given me some great tips for converting my AoBR SMs into CSMs.

Thankyou.

I never really thought I'd need to use greenstuff on my army, but after seeing this tute I'm actually trying to find an excuse to.

Awesome work!

Whoah... I'm speechless to be honest...


Great stuff!

I hope this article stays in the archives on Dakka.
How many Golden Daemons have you won?

amazing, cant wait to start messing aroung with some green stuff