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I've had similar problems with my two mages. Their staffs won't fit on the miniatures at all. The dragon will, as well, require some serious work. There are well designed nubs on the hands and feet of the dragon to fit it in the base, but sadly they don't fit. I had to file them all off and will have to fill the insertion points with GS. It's an inconvenience, but not a deal breaker for me.

Overall, I'm fairly pleased with the minis. The depth of detail is a bit less than the metal version, but there's still a ton there. Flashing appears to be limited to one or two connection points on each mini, and they're easy to remove. Mould lines, much like Privateer's plastic miniatures, are going to be a bigger issue. On larger models like the dragon, they're very easy to remove. On some of the smaller ones, like the Kobolds, they're going to be a little trickier. The plastic does NOT seem to like my files (it leave a very rough, uneven surface when i try to sand them down) and it will be tricky to remove all of the mould lines. Interestingly enough, I didn't find hardly any mould lines on the hero models.

There will be some MINOR gap filling required on some of the larger models (Rex, in particular), but they're going to really easy fixes.

I haven't thusfar had any complaints about the cards. Granted, I sleeved them right away in FFG standard sized sleeves, but I really don't foresee their thickness being any kind of issue. The material the box is made of irks me a bit more, as it's a corroguated cardboard as opposed to a traditional heavy stock box cardboard, but it's a minor quibble.

Fire away with any other questions you may have.

Overall I'm happy with the game.

The cards are alittle thin which isn't that big of a deal since I sleeve pretty much any game I have.

The die cut tokens are adequate, not the best, not the worst.

My biggest complaint with the game is that early versions of the game were played/demoed using D&D style dungeon tiels so you could construct something different each game. This is something I really like, I don't think the included square tiles do the game justice. They are also fairly hard to read.

I would have rather payed $100 for the game and had higher quality components.

Game play is alot of fun, if your having problems with the rules your probably trying to over analyze things. Overall its fairly simple and straight forward.

An excelant game with execelant minatures and mediocre components.


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Also a something I came across last night while assembling my set. If you wash the plastic first superglue sets up much quicker on them.

A few questions for the guys that got the game already. I going to build a board, but can't get the game until after the helladays.

1) What are the measurement of the board 5 tiles.

2) What are the measurement of each grid square.

Thanks.

cincydooley wrote:It's an inconvenience, but not a deal breaker for me.

It is to me! Pre-order canceled. I'm very, very grateful to you and other reviewers here.

Hi all, I'm Frontline Gamer. I just want to say that I've actually played a few games now and it's not too bad. nothing new or revolutionary in the mechanics, but that's not necessarily a bad thing when the games it takes things from are so well established and loved. My only concern would be one of longevity, there isn't really that much variance offered out of the box. My full review will go up sometime in the next 2 weeks when I can find a slot for it.

I'm still assembling mine, just finished the dragon and I have to say that I really like the minis. I've had no problems with malformed insertion points or large gaps. Most of my gaps have been extremely small if noticeable at all and I have yet to bust out the green stuff. Those that did exist could easily be fixed by using hot water and reshaping the part. The boiling water trick works amazingly well on these plastics. Mould lines were also a joke as they rub off extremely easily. I would concur with the previous poster and say that you should avoid files, use a hobby knife instead.

A tip for those assembling the dragon. Put the right and left hands on first. Then assemble the base separately. Attach those two separate pieces together and use hot water to make the tail and arms fit on to slots in the base. Once that is dry proceed to put put the legs on, once again using water to make sure that left leg fits into the slot. After that you can put the head and wings on. Doing things in this order made assembling him/her so much easier.

Edit: I've only been modelling for a year and am by no means advanced but I have yet to have any problems assembling these guys. I'm guessing that a lot of the complaints regarding the minis are coming from board gamers who have never done this sort of work before. That is a valid complaint as this was definitely advertised as a board game rather than a minis game yet if you're here on dakka there's more than enough information to get you through assembling these. I'll say it again, use hot water to soften the parts, prior to doing that I was cursing and raging, after using it everything fit together smoothly.

My game just arrived in the post just a few mins ago!

First impressions... Waahooooh lol. People who said there are a lot of small pieces weren't lying! I was expecting a bunch of sprues, but actually all the pieces come loose in little plastic bags. I can only liken it to opening a big Lego model for the first time, and seeing all the little bits that need to be sorted (That might make it seem a bit more daunting than it actually is). The models are also slightly bigger than I was expecting too. For example Angry Bear is about the same hight as the AOBR dreadnought (maybe a fraction taller). Should make them a bit easier to paint.

The box is fine, I don't know what that guy was complaining about? It is a different design to what I'm used to. It has a flip open lid rather than being in 2 pieces (ala GW game boxes). It also appears to be a glueless design, so you can take it apart and flatten it and remake it again, without any problems. To be honest it is probably a lot more sturdy than the GW boxes, as it has more folds, and less likely to bust at the corners. Perhaps more prone to creasing though since it is corrugated. I don't think it looks cheap though.

The board sections are really beautiful and printed on good heavy board. They seem to be very good quality. The counters are also printed on board too, rather than papery card, and seem to be well centred. My dice all seem to be in good shape too (literally).

Regarding the cards... They are quite thin. I don't know if they are thinner than regular playing cards, but they certainly aren't any thicker. I don't think there is anything wrong with them though. I might do like others have suggested and sleeve them, but that's only because I want to keep them nice, not because I'm worried about them not lasting.

As for the miniatures I haven't really started putting them together yet, but they do look super cute. They will need mold lines cleaning up etc... I realise now what people meant about having to fill gaps. It isn't really because of bad quality. it is more that many of the joins aren't very well hidden, so if you want to hide them, you might have to smear a little bit of GS over the joint.

Here if you look at Angry Bear the joint where his head attaches to his body, is quite prominent in the corner of his mouth. I don't know if you NEED to fill the gaps. But I personally will because I want the miniatures to look as nice as possible.

I'm yet to play my first game, and I realise now that assembling everything is going to take a little bit longer than I had anticipated, so my first game might not be for some time. But overall I'm really happy with the package and totally not disappointed at all. This is awesome! I can't wait to get started.

Noir wrote:A few questions for the guys that got the game already. I going to build a board, but can't get the game until after the helladays.

1) What are the measurement of the board 5 tiles.

2) What are the measurement of each grid square.

Thanks.

The boards are 310 mm, and the grid squares are about 20mm each, with a 2mm spacing between them (so 22mm each).

We played two games today after buying it last Friday. A great game, easy to pick up, fast to play depending on your opponent and yes, assembly is a pain in the ass!

Only the dragon was a PITA for me.

After playing a few games, I'm totally jazzed by the game, and honestly think it's a shame Manchu won't be getting in on this. I can udnerstand the objection, I just hate that it stand in the way between him and a flipping awesome game.

I have never been so excited to try and paint little anime faces. Hell, I haven't been excited by anything that even looked anime in years. Plus, my wife thinks they look cute.

Really interested in getting this - now to find a UK stockist that has it in stock for a decent price. Wayland are out of stock and apparently aren't getting a resupply until the new year

I picked this up about a week or so ago, got the models assembeled in about 2 hours, and 3 readings of the rules later i was playing 8bit, then 2 16bit games. Once you get playing the game becomes so much more fluid, than the rules present.
But the dragon was a PITA.

Anyone want to showcase their set?

Played a game today, I was the Consul pitted against a Paladin and an Amber Mage. It took quite some effort to kill the two of them. Here's how the mage ended:

I like the idea, shame about the construction issues. If anyone has some time and a camera, could they take some shots of the box as it arrives, and any shots of how the pieces look when together.

BrookM wrote:Played a game today, I was the Consul pitted against a Paladin and an Amber Mage. It took quite some effort to kill the two of them. Here's how the mage ended:

Does the game scale well for number of players, something that was/is a weakness in Descent.

Morathi's Darkest Sin wrote:I like the idea, shame about the construction issues. If anyone has some time and a camera, could they take some shots of the box as it arrives, and any shots of how the pieces look when together.

I'm not sure which construction issues you are referring to? As has been said before... all you need is a mug of hot water from the kettle, and you can reset any parts that might have cooled slightly out of alignment. Heating in hot water works really well on these minitures, the become really flexible, almost like rubber. You can bend them into any shape or pose you want.

I took a few photos for you anyway...

The box:




Inside the box:




The manual: (very nice)



And here are some of the miniatures:

This is my half finished Dwarf... I decided to base his colour scheme on the Dwarf from SEGA's Golden Axe on the megadrive


And this shows a few of the Super Dungeon Explore pieces, compared to 40k marines, for scale:

Orlanth wrote:

BrookM wrote:Played a game today, I was the Consul pitted against a Paladin and an Amber Mage. It took quite some effort to kill the two of them. Here's how the mage ended:

Does the game scale well for number of players, something that was/is a weakness in Descent.

We will find out later this month as so far, we've only played 8-bit games i.e. two heroes versus two spawn points.

Forbidden planet have stock of it in some places for folks in the U.K.

Id avoid getting it online as there are a few scammers

In the course of putting my figs together I must have boxed them too early and most of them got that lovely white coating over them from the superglue fumes. This means I really need to paint them now I guess. Thought I'd post my first fig (although none of the heroes actually got the white film on them I decided to start with them.) He's nothing special but passes the "three foot rule" - the standard I try to paint all my figs to.


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Found an interesting thread about alternative Chibi minis for SDE...
http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8040063#8040063

gruebot wrote:Found an interesting thread about alternative Chibi minis for SDE...
http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8040063#8040063

I spent quite a while looking around for alternative miniatures that might fit. There are a huge selection of Chibi figurines for anime fans, but the smallest I could find were still half an inch too big.

The best Idea I can think of would be to use Goblin bodies, as those are almost exactly the right size and then use heads from larger scale figures, or non-chibi anime figurines. Though I haven't found the right heads yet, as it is very difficult to judge scale from photos.

It is a shame about the scale thing: thing like this would fit so perfectly...

Anyone think this might make a good NYE game for a group of about, say, 6-7 people?

H.B.M.C. wrote:Anyone think this might make a good NYE game for a group of about, say, 6-7 people?

With 6 to 7 people the game is going to get on the long side, your probably also going to need a second box set.

From what I've found from playing the game.

- You generally want to have one tile per player
- One spawn point and one treasure chest per tile.
- Your going to want to have the 8 bit/16 bit tracker go around twice.

A game with 6 or 7 people is probably going to take 2.5 to 3 hours so it all really depends on the crowd.

Remember to try and imerse the people in the game and make them perticipate instead of just rolling some dice.

Omg why do I have to see this and want to buy yet another thing.........gaaaaa.............

Noir wrote:A few questions for the guys that got the game already. I going to build a board, but can't get the game until after the helladays.

1) What are the measurement of the board 5 tiles.

2) What are the measurement of each grid square.

Thanks.

Tiles are about 12.5" x 12.5" with the grid squares being 1" x 1"

For those interested I put up a couple model reviews on Hand Cannon Online about the game.

http://handcannononline.com/blog/2011/12/22/super-dungeon-explore-monster-models-review/

I got my copy about a month ago and love it. I've run a few demo games and all our club members had a blast. The game is easy to learn, although as Consul I took it easy on the demo group, and haven't won a game yet.

Played a game yesterday, and it was really fun. However, from what I've seen, you need to make sure that it doesn't get too one sided. If one side gets too powerful early on, the game just becomes a real steamroll and isn't fun at all for the other side.

There also need to be a few fixes, might want to throw in a few house rules to even things out. First, the Dwarf Fighter is just way too powerful. His shout is all kinds of absurd. I'd recommend making it scale off of WILL instead of ATK, or make it target DEF instead of WILL.
Also, the Barbarian's Rage shouldn't be able to work when going back onto a spot (otherwise, you can just go to town on a large monster and kill them in one turn).

Looks interesting, reminds a bit of Talisman in the way the modeled gameboards looked in earlier pics. I can't purchase something like this as it would just sit on the shelf, but dang that Princess Mayla and One Shot figs are very cool.

Fafnir wrote: Dwarf Fighter is just way too powerful. His shout is all kinds of absurd.

What "Shout"? Are you talking about "Dwarven Curse"? It is handy when surrounded by denizens, but his potion sucks.

His potion may suck, but his Shout (I guess it's called "Dwarven Curse") can completely destroy entire waves of enemies. The fact that his potion sucks means that he can give any bonus potions to teammates.

Bonus potions? I'm pretty sure that his potion allows you to put damage that he takes from an enemy attack onto another hero, like the Barbarian who auto heals every turn. At least thats thats the way we understand it.