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Ah it's too soon to present my list.

Hint: five of the discrepancies involve the legs.

Three involve parts installed upside down.

 The_Blackadder wrote:
Ah it's too soon to present my list.

Hint: five of the discrepancies involve the legs.

Three involve parts installed upside down.

Lovin' your thread! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I'm resurrecting a Lucius Warhound myself and I almost glued the plates on upside down!

Can't wait to see what you do with this one, Blackadder. My own Warhound is held together with little more than GS and superglue (in some places, lots of both) so I'm looking forward to seeing one get built with your level of professionalism.

As for the problems you noticed with the painted example... I can't criticize too hard since my own Warhound has a hip joint twisted way further than it should be (and thus at least one hip piston waaaay longer than it should be) but... Well, I'm probably missing something horribly obvious, but I think I've got a few.

1. The middle portions of both legs are not only upside-down, but also backwards
2. The builder completely left out the pistons on the middle sections of the legs, which is understandable following #1 there since there would be no way to attach them. You'd think they'd have noticed something had gone wrong, although by then it might have been too late to fix it.
3. The left leg is sitting really wobbly in the hip joint.
4. ...does it have two left vents on its back? The hell, Forge World?

1 and 2 are why we dryfit everything. Still, I can't be too hard on it, it looks to me like it's been dropped or broken at some point. It explains #3 above and it looks like the toes were initially bent further than that pose would naturally require. When they tried to repair it, they didn't care enough to conserve the original pose or to break apart all the joints to make a completely new one. Can't really blame them, the former would require patience trying to re-pin and re-glue while struggling against the model's fully-assembled weight, and the latter would risk breaking bloody everything. The paintjob's gorgeous, at the very least, so that balances it out.

Speaking of broken Titans, from experience I'd suggest a) getting a base for your own Warhound and b) posing the feet as flat as possible, there's a lot of weight on those toes and you can probably tell just from looking at the parts that there's not much to keep them from snapping off. If you do base it, make absolutely sure something's supporting the central part of the foot. Setting up my Warhound with one foot practically on tiptoes was the worst mistake I've made in my whole army. Probably the dumbest too, although I can think of several runners-up.

By the way, totally agree about the lumpy mess on the head. It's really the only part of the model I don't like. I wanted to spruce mine up while I was painting it, I mean it SHOULD be the focal point of the whole thing, but I couldn't figure out anything to do with it other than just paint it metal and hope nobody cared. A smoother surface for more freehand, similar to the Loyalist one, would've been vastly preferable to... whatever that's supposed to be.

Congratulations you pretty much nailed it.

My own inspection revealed:

1. The pieces below the knee (the shanks) are installed upside down
Because the piece below the knee is upside down.....

2. The pistons are not installed on the back of the thigh

3. The knee joint pistons and cylinders are not installed

4. The ankle joint pistons and cylinders are not installed

5. There are no steering pistons and cylinders behind the greaves. Set of five for each foot and to give justice to the builder he stated that the foot hydraulics was missing from the kit when he received it.

6. Finally The exhaust mufflers between the generator housings is installed upside down as well.

Being dyslexic all I can say is .

Nope can't even use dyslexia as an excuse for all the backwards, upside down and missing parts. Oh well the black_adder will fix it with his usual (freakishly awesome) attention to detail

whitedragon wrote:Lovin' your thread! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I'm resurrecting a Lucius Warhound myself and I almost glued the plates on upside down!

Then this thread will be a boon to you because I will be building both a Lucius and a Chaos Warhound (Maybe two). The problem might be that I will be painting the interior detail as well so nothing will be glued together for quite some time.

I also intend to make these as unassembleable (my spell check says that's not a word) as possible so I will be drilling and tapping threads into the resin screwing the hull parts together instead of gluing. I am also going to make liberal use of rare earth magnets for movable parts i.e. guns turrets greaves and armour. Lastly I want to see if I can change the pose of the legs at will so I will be drilling and tapping the leg joints as well.

RazakelXIII wrote:Can't wait to see what you do with this one, Blackadder. My own Warhound is held together with little more than GS and superglue (in some places, lots of both) so I'm looking forward to seeing one get built with your level of professionalism.

As for the problems you noticed with the painted example... I can't criticize too hard since my own Warhound has a hip joint twisted way further than it should be (and thus at least one hip piston waaaay longer than it should be) but... Well, I'm probably missing something horribly obvious, but I think I've got a few.

1. The middle portions of both legs are not only upside-down, but also backwards
2. The builder completely left out the pistons on the middle sections of the legs, which is understandable following #1 there since there would be no way to attach them. You'd think they'd have noticed something had gone wrong, although by then it might have been too late to fix it.
3. The left leg is sitting really wobbly in the hip joint.
4. ...does it have two left vents on its back? The hell, Forge World?

1 and 2 are why we dryfit everything. Still, I can't be too hard on it, it looks to me like it's been dropped or broken at some point. It explains #3 above and it looks like the toes were initially bent further than that pose would naturally require. When they tried to repair it, they didn't care enough to conserve the original pose or to break apart all the joints to make a completely new one. Can't really blame them, the former would require patience trying to re-pin and re-glue while struggling against the model's fully-assembled weight, and the latter would risk breaking bloody everything. The paintjob's gorgeous, at the very least, so that balances it out.

Considering the level of painting expertise exhibited by the author it's rather surprising he screwed up so badly assembling the model

Speaking of broken Titans, from experience I'd suggest a) getting a base for your own Warhound and b) posing the feet as flat as possible, there's a lot of weight on those toes and you can probably tell just from looking at the parts that there's not much to keep them from snapping off. If you do base it, make absolutely sure something's supporting the central part of the foot. Setting up my Warhound with one foot practically on tiptoes was the worst mistake I've made in my whole army. Probably the dumbest too, although I can think of several runners-up.

I don't think the Warhound could do more than shuffle, it certainly would be difficult to balance on one leg if not walking. Certainly a walking/trotting vehicle would make for a jouncing ride for the occupants. As for the base I think a maintenance bay with mechanics working on the Warhound, all the hatches open and the service elevator decended would look really interesting. I just need to source some 28 MM mechanic figures.

By the way, totally agree about the lumpy mess on the head. It's really the only part of the model I don't like. I wanted to spruce mine up while I was painting it, I mean it SHOULD be the focal point of the whole thing, but I couldn't figure out anything to do with it other than just paint it metal and hope nobody cared. A smoother surface for more freehand, similar to the Loyalist one, would've been vastly preferable to... whatever that's supposed to be.

I had an epiphany last night and am going to google research some images of punk rock skin head types for inspiration to change the top of the head.

Theophony wrote:Being dyslexic all I can say is .

Nope can't even use dyslexia as an excuse for all the backwards, upside down and missing parts. Oh well the black_adder will fix it with his usual (freakishly awesome) attention to detail

Being both dyslexic and having ADHD and never being diagnosed as such I always had problems following a set procedure. I could never do Algebra for example because I couldn't follow the intermediate steps. What I could do was visualize the problem holistically and get the answer which is incidental in Algebra where the getting the procedure right is the important thing.

I considered my particular afflictions a benefit when I entered my vocation because I could skip to the answer without following the steps. I believe dyslexia is just a different way of thinking and not at all a handicap.

ADHD on the other hand is a pain in the ass and is why I can't stick to working on one thing at a time....................

No Chaos Turbo Laser

There is no Turbo laser for the FW Chaos Warhound so I have to make one. Not as easy as it may seem; there's a fine line between too little and too much distressing I hope I haven't exceeded it. Of course once its all a homogeneous colour it won't look as bad and I need so Chaos style icons to dress it up and of course the webbing between the components.

I'm starting the subsurface ligaments at the moment......

http://i.imgur.com/AyqXGWR.jpg


It's kind of fun ruining 60 buck worth of resin....

Not!

why does everyone think chaos should have everything the imperium has? Just because they were part of it during its prime? Well we can't have that, be happy with your warhound, maybe when they are done with the 30k business they might catch up on old projects.

And auto append denied

Perhaps I should rephrase my statement

"I want to make one."

I ordered a Mars Turbo Laser specifically to do this.

Sorry, I'm just messing with you. Guess I've read so much anger over in news and rumors latterly about the new chaos stuff and not getting all the cool loyalist stuff. Also spent the whole morning cleaning out one of my kids rooms as a surprise bday present. New shelves, dresser, rearranging. Not fun stuff but she'll love it when she gets home form school.

Loyalist Stuff? What is Loyalist? This is the second time in the past half hour I have heard the term....

No problem and no "sorry" necessary, I appreciate the reply.

Also What rumors about new Chaos stuff?

link(s)?

You're a brave man doing that to a turbo laser, damned shame they don't deem chaos worth doing weapons for. Still it's better to have useful guns than just sticking on the plasma and vulcan just because they're good to go. You'd think they'd have added some bits to the core kit to add to the other weapon options, especially since you get that with the chaos reaver.

 The_Blackadder wrote:
Loyalist Stuff? What is Loyalist? This is the second time in the past half hour I have heard the term....

No problem and no "sorry" necessary, I appreciate the reply.

Also What rumors about new Chaos stuff?

link(s)?

Sorry for the untimely answer. Basically chaos is getting a new multipart helbrute model and they got a supplement fo a faction that came out in the last starter box called the crimson slaughter . Everyone is raging over the fact they want plastic havocs and new plastic veterans, but there hasn't been word or pics of those. They are all complaining how loyalists (non-chaos guys) get all the storm ravens, storm talons, centurions, hunter tanks and other stuff when their legions are older and HAD better technology back during the heresy. They make valid points about how recent renegades should have those things as well as chapter tactics, but there's no love for chaos .

Well there's my response. Been a busy couple weeks, and not slowing down in the next couple . I will try and be more diligent with killing the auto appends.

And So It Begins:

After a diligent search I have finally come up with a theme for my Chaos Warhound. Not surprisingly courtesy of my mentor in absentia,

Buypainted's Jaro.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcOtFcIGuXw

I'v been searching for the right green and metal motif and while it isn't a Warhound it is Chaos vehicle scheme that should be easily adapted to the Warhound.

So first a coat of Flat Black Prime:

http://i.imgur.com/HAO7XGL.jpg


I use aerosol acetone/ toluene based primer instead of the acrylic water soluble primer for 1, it's compatible with both resin and acrylics and 2, it's a lot cheaper.

Note I did not try to cover completely with one coat; a couple of thin coats are better than one heavy coat which takes longer to dry and the thick paint obscures the fine detail.

Note I did not try to cover completely with one coat; a couple of thin coats are better than one heavy coat which takes longer to dry and the thick paint obscures the fine detail.

Agreed. I cant count how many figs I stripped that I got from ebay that dont follow this simple procedure.

Just a note to keep this thread updated.

On the 13th June I ordered the requisite material to paint and finish this model the actual assembly of which is relatively simple now that I have all the parts cleaned and inventoried. I would like to at least index the leg components so a variety of poses will be possible contingent on the durability of the material. I cannot hope for the flexibility of 'Lucie" of course but some alternate positioning should be possible given the availability of threaded hardware and rare earth magnets.

So whilst I am waiting for the paint perhaps I should demonstrate how I intend to articulate the model.

Blackadder Paints a Chaos Warhound:

Whilst I have the paints set up for the Warlord I might as well prep the Chaos Warhound for painting as well.

The model was first primed with generic Walmart $0.99 cents a can grey primer followed by Walmart $0.99 cents a can flat black.

http://i.imgur.com/OUSaVPo.jpg


Now I've applied AV Model Air German Grey thinned 50/50 with Isopropyl alcohol.

http://i.imgur.com/XIT8E7c.jpg


Since I don't have a Chaos army but I've always wanted to paint this model cadaverous green I figure I'll steal Jaro's paint scheme because....

1, It's the best I've seen.

and B, It's exactly the way I would have done it had I the artistic talent.

The trouble his Warhound looks like a Forgefiend.







Automatically Appended Next Post:
Ahem! need a Auto append interference runner here please.

Sticking My Neck Out:

Blackadder is putting his neck on the block posting these images because I'm sure flagrant violations of good sense and technique abound in my painting.

http://i.imgur.com/DSdNf31.jpg


The first error has already been pointed out to me; I am painting the individual parts instead of the assembled model.

http://i.imgur.com/nfypNzG.jpg


Why this is a problem has not manifested itself to me yet but I am sure the awful truth will make itself evident summarily.

http://i.imgur.com/nVYPydQ.jpg


So anyone (and I am sure there are many that are saying, "He's headed for a fall.") that can offer a reasonable critique be advised, "Here's your chance."

Just an update; about 75% of the model has been coated with the main colour thus far.

Painting separated parts are just fine. You just have to pick and choose what you want to assemble and how far. I get into prepping way ahead of time with a ton on my miniatures since magnetizing is one thing I love to do. You can never have to many options. With large miniatures I tend to paint in parts.

Harder Than it Looks:

I've viewed with appetite others work with green stuff but have rarely had a necessity for working with it myself

Until today!

What I am attempting to do is convert a Mars Turbo Laser into a Chaos facsimile by distressing, gouging and generally effing up what heretofore was a pretty good casting by FW standards of the weapon that is not offered for Chaos Warhounds.

Well working with GreenStuff is harder than it looks not because the sculpting is actually hard but the stuff is extremely sticky. I made the mistake of letting it sit on my desk top and it adhered itself almost instantly! Now I have a stain on my writing desk.

It sticks with great avidity to my sculpting tools, my Xacto blades everything in fact except where I want to apply it where it perversely refuses to adhere.

Anyway after fighting with the stuff for what seems hours I managed to get it where I wanted in a reasonable fashion

http://i.imgur.com/zEJXGQ1.jpg


and let it sit for a while.

After what I thought was a judicious length of time I figure it was set enough to work the other side of the housing but no the stuff apparently needs a lot of curing time as although seemingly stable to the touch it is still quite malleable.

http://i.imgur.com/TgPAMyt.jpg


So a tip of my hat to GreenStuff sculptors, You earn my applause.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Can I get an Amen?

Hmmm no auto append so I guess that post is skipped, oh well...........

Vallejo Black Metal:

I had intended to use powdered Graphite (the stuff ya used to lubricate the axles of yer PineWood Derby racers) for my interior work but the Vallejo Model Air Black Metal 71.073 seems to do the job excellently.

The first image in flash was too intense

http://i.imgur.com/509Trup.jpg


So macro shots in natural light seems the way to go.

http://i.imgur.com/sHI3OwY.jpg


Right now after my initial coat of black spray paint I highlighted the larger flat areas with Vallejo Model Air AV German Grey 71.052 followed by Vallejo Model Air AV Lt Grey Green 71.044 with my airbrush.

Just for brevity let's assume that all the paint mentioned below and from now on unless otherwise stipulated will be:

Vallejo Model Air AV paints, I'll just give the colour and the stock number.

http://i.imgur.com/MEzwe5z.jpg


This morning I dry-brushed 'Steel' 71.065 onto the still black areas and Black Metal onto the Lt Grey/Green 71.044 panels.

http://i.imgur.com/yY9oJku.jpg


So far that's the only painting done to these pieces and I think the effect is passable.

http://i.imgur.com/2aVwUp1.jpg


It's a shame to obfuscate the wealth of detail of this Chaos interior with gobs of paint as is seen on most of the images I've pulled up on 'google images' so I will be dry-brushing all the colours I apply to the interior just to highlight the detail.

http://i.imgur.com/leb7AVd.jpg


I got a bit sloppy on the vent screen above; the brush was a tad too wet. Damn!

http://i.imgur.com/X4W5ZOb.jpg


The two servitors came out fine; How ever do they mould these intricate details!??????

The Interminable Interior:

I worked for two hours today dry-brushing various colours into the pieces. I had to learn how to apply rust as a highlight.

http://i.imgur.com/ZYmzLMj.jpg




http://i.imgur.com/jUhPYnm.jpg




http://i.imgur.com/Xfo881C.jpg


These ceiling pieces came out better than expected even in the camera shots AV Model Air Rust 71.069 did a good job in this area.

http://i.imgur.com/d147k3f.jpg


The rust in this area is a big disappointment and has to be redone.

http://i.imgur.com/MDjPXca.jpg


The servators still need bone white highlighting.

http://i.imgur.com/NUB52yl.jpg


This guy is my favorite, I have to leave the center bulkhead removable so he can be seen. This still needs AV Game Color Bone White 72.034 highlighting over Citadel Base Rakarth Flesh.

http://i.imgur.com/iwpmas8.jpg


Perhaps tomorrow I'll be able to introduce a bit of colour to this drab interior.

Blackadder"s Subtifuge:

Sorry but it's just impossible to take a decent image of these interiors without a bit of photoshopping. The images without flash are too dark and out of focus and with a flash are too washed out so i employed my editor to give what I believe is the most colour true and accurate real life image I can manage.

directly below is the cockpit and while the ganglia and appendages are a tad washed out the overall image is a true as I can make them to real light and colour value.

http://i.imgur.com/JkVxGeU.jpg


This next image of the Tech Priest is the best of dozens of trial images which unfortunately does not display the the wealth of detail in this area. I acknowledge that the gold trim above the figure still needs quite a bit of work...........

http://i.imgur.com/cx0V8du.jpg


Finally the poor dude on the back bulkhead has seen better days but at least the colour and darkness value is as true as my poor editor can produce.

http://i.imgur.com/UV7SEQR.jpg


Let me state for the record my son and I are at odds about the conduits attached to the appendages of the the crew of the vehicle.

He maintains that the connections are wire and I believe they represent ganglia so therefore his Warhound will be red and blue wires and my connections will be bone white as I believe look more like organic nerve ganglia.

I also opted to dry brush the web-like connective tissue Rakarth Flesh with bone white highlights whereas he has not addressed the problem as yet.

In Demigod We Rust:

The basic coat of rust is applied of which this is a fair sampling I'm using Vallejo AV Model Air Rust 71.080 50/50 paint to alcohol which seems a bit light for rust colour but once the black wash is on it will darken. While eventually the entire model will be getting a dusting of dry rust pigments I feel certain cancerous areas need this extra painting of corrosion in the deeper wounds.

Once all the painted rusting is in place I will try highlighting the subcutaneous ganglia etc, with Rakarth Flesh and Bone White.


http://i.imgur.com/aGSSHIB.jpg


Vallejo also makes a metallic rust but I don't like the sparkly look. Rust shouldn't sparkle.

http://i.imgur.com/HaG5CFI.jpg

Fantastic stuff. Thanks very much for posting. It's very instructive, following the process of so meticulous and exacting a craftsman.

The results are looking compellingly lifelike (deathlike?). I tend towards more cartoonish and vivid effects, myself. The realism of your approach makes the impact stronger, I think. Well done.

Thanks, realism is what I am striving for plus everyone will lose their appetite when viewing these armies so losing weight is a subsidiary bonus........

Supricating Pustules:

Well google let me down; there is no such word as 'supricating' according to google so I guess I've spawned a neologism.

Supricate: to ooze a noxious amniotic fluid from an ulcer or cyst; Gagggg!

The abscesses are coming along nicely and I should be ready to begin assembly tomorrow. Virtually all the painting is done and I can apply the washes when the model is in one piece.

Here's a barrage of images that should be self-explanatory; I beg your pardon for the poor quality:

http://i.imgur.com/oZxzs2H.jpg


I'm looking into purchasing a light box for photographing....

http://i.imgur.com/dQ9s7hb.jpg


Same picture different light source not much better but it's the sores we're interested in.

http://i.imgur.com/BIljbSV.jpg


I'm rather pleases how the living tissue turned out it's even more repulsive than my Tyranids. Ha!

http://i.imgur.com/BahV1nK.jpg


Once the washes are applied the wounds will take on a wetter appearance I'm hoping.

http://i.imgur.com/JmO5OsJ.jpg


The ganglia is Citadel 'Rakarth Flesh' highlighted with AV 'Bone White' all dry brushed on.

http://i.imgur.com/b4xFCBy.jpg

No One Move, I Dropped My Contact Lens:

I had to try this because the most obvious image that came to my mind was Peter Jackson's 'Eye of Sauron' for the waist shield orb.

Well all the colours are there but I think it needs to be a gif to make it come alive. I do have to shrink the highlight a bit.










It still needs a little more drybrushing.

A Running Pose:

So I begin the assembly of the legs. I have and idea for a dynamic pose where the two feet are pretty much in line as if the Titan was stalking in a running pose.

http://i.imgur.com/PJrQwSO.jpg


I started by drilling tight holes for the toe bases so the bases can twist in their sockets as the foot was designed to do. I fact I was not aware of where I built the toes for Lucie many years ago.

http://i.imgur.com/CMIfrwp.jpg


The trailing foot will be flexed with heel spur in the air and the front toes bent to their extreme flexed position.

http://i.imgur.com/pqqyIFc.jpg


I will be drilling and pinning the toe joins next.

The Dynamics of Stride:

In preparation for this 'on the fly' pose I am instituting a procedure heretofore unknown at least to me of allowing the feet and toes to be posed prior to assembly and gluing.

I drilled and pinned the toe joins so they can remain flexible until I have stabilized the quick striding stance; then this model will have when glued frozen in one pose.

http://i.imgur.com/U9JCbhC.jpg


I have in mind the T' Rex pursuit in 'Jurassic Park' where it is bearing down on the fleeing jeep feet and toes in tandem rather than the typical sprawled pose seen in most Warhound displays.

http://i.imgur.com/Jhg69ay.jpg


Naturally this pose will require some very fine tuning for balance considering the relative center of masses of a T' Rex vis–à–vis a Warhound the Warhound's center of gravity being so much higher than that of the Rex.

I'm not even sure such a pose is possible without resorting to a permanent pad affixed to the feet which will seriously detract from the visual effect of the model.

In studying the spore of Mesozoic Theropods the striding gait appears to be pigeon-toed at least in some instances see below. I probably won't be representing this unless necessary for balance which is probably why the dinosaur predator is intermittently adopting that foot placement. Almost every step a bipedal organism takes (including we humans) involves literally falling forward and using the step forward to catch and balance to keep us from falling on our face.

The second problem is the lack of the counterbalancing tail that the T' Rex enjoyed but not so with the Warhound. Some lead or gold in the rear void generators may be in order to compensate for the front heaviness of the pose.

I have an idea for placement of these that may add to balancing the overall model side to side as well.

In all the procedure should prove an interesting tour de force.



Note the cigarette butt in the footprint immediately above this sentence; proof that mentally challenged humanoids and dinosaurs co-existed?

Following your work processes is even more impressing than the (truly fantastic) products of your labour... Only the Blackadder would study fossilized dino trails in the act of constructing a wargaming model... Truly inspiring! Bionics at its best!

My 5ct: I suppose you should study not the trails of T-Rex, Hadrosaurus and co., but those of some recent bipedal dinosaurs: Will say, look out for running birds! Like your Model, Birds do not have tails to keep balance (ignoring roadrunners), plus they often have a hind spur. The classical bipedal mesozoic dinos are lacking that hind spur. In my humble opinion you will find the most satisfying results in studying the tracks of phasanidae (chicken, peacock, wood grouse etc), maaaybe ostriches(although they don't have the right number of dactyles).