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The best red I have used was Reaper Master Series HD Red.

 cuda1179 wrote:
A friend recently called me out on being a cheapskate. While I honestly can't say that anyone in the hobby is "cheap" I have to say I somewhat agreed with him in his opinion. The reason he called me this? While I generally like GW paints, I hate paying $5 for half an ounce of paint. So I go to Walmart, buy the same shade of paint in their craft isle (88 cents for 2 ounces) and then I mix it in with the GW paint. Basically the mixture is about 85 to 90 percent GW paint, I just cut the cost a bit by adding generic craft paint with no noticeable difference in coverage.


Does anyone else have any cost cutting techniques they use to get the most of their money?

I do the exact same thing you do, except I don't cut it.

The only GW paints I use are bases and washes.

I use a whole bunch of paints, craft paints and miniatures paints both - it depends on what i am painting.

You can cut costs by not buying GW paints - which are overpriced for the quality.

Army Painter, Reaper, and Valejo are all very good, and a whole lot less expensive for the same quality as the GW paints.

When priming, I get automotive sandable primers - which work just fine. If I feel like spending money, I get Army Painter spray primers - more expensive than Duplicolor, but a great match for the paints.

The Auld Grump

Army painter.

Damn good, better price .
Nothing wrong with good value.

I steal sand and dirt off the road for basing materials :/

im such bad person.

Mine are based on old broken roof slate from doing up the house....

Not paying when I know a large slate costs 50p to a quid.

Just buy and use Delta Ceramcoat, Martha Stewart Craft paints, or Folk Art. They all work just fine. There are also the artist's paints from Liquitex and Golden that work really well; get the fluid acrylic or soft body acrylic. Thin them with matte medium and distilled water+flow aid. The notion that miniature paints are anything special is just ignorance. It's all pigment (finer ground is better) in acrylic polymer emulsion (Looks like milk. It's why acrylic paints darken when they dry.) And it is the exact same emulsion for any acrylic paint. The so called "miniatures" paints may have some other additive to create a harder finish, or reduce surface tension of the paint, or some other thing. Things you can add yourself. Look at my gallery to see how well such paints work. Delta and Martha Stewart work best. Avoid the Americana craft paints. They dry to a strange textured finish. I think the pigment is not as finely ground.

As far as other examples of, shall we call it, thriftiness, see my terrain blog (link in sig). I tend to recycle a lot of stuff.

At the end of the day, I think you get what you pay for in this hobby. You can certainly cut some corners, we all do it, but I've seen a lot of corners cut that ended with $100.'s worth of models crudded up by cheap glues, brushes, primer and paints that saved a couple of bucks, at best. Same with figure cases. I've watched opponents pull out armies from cases that I wouldn't have expected my kid to store his rock collection in and then wait while they spend the next 15 minutes gluing pieces back on...and a rushed glue job always looks so good! I just don't get it.

For a local event I've made a new 40k army.
2k, 6 tanks and 77 infantry.
Zero GW models and under $200.

To each their own, I suppose.

I've been transitioning from hobby paints to craft paints for a while now, and when I place one of my old minis painted with hobby paints next to a new one for the same unit painted with craft paints I don't see a difference.

Could be just me, though.

Excluding washes/shades, a few metallics, and the odd technical paint, my collection is strictly craft paints. Apple Barrel, DecoArt, and Americana mostly.

 BigWaaagh wrote:
At the end of the day, I think you get what you pay for in this hobby. You can certainly cut some corners, we all do it, but I've seen a lot of corners cut that ended with $100.'s worth of models crudded up by cheap glues, brushes, primer and paints that saved a couple of bucks, at best. Same with figure cases. I've watched opponents pull out armies from cases that I wouldn't have expected my kid to store his rock collection in and then wait while they spend the next 15 minutes gluing pieces back on...and a rushed glue job always looks so good! I just don't get it.

To a certain extent this is true, but I think more often "paying" a bit of time, can save ALOT of money.

-A properly made foam case based on gun cases is every bit as protective (in many cases more) than a Sabol case at 1/3 or less the cost. Of course you have to take the time to cut and glue cut glue yourself.

-Homebuilt terrain. It may take a bit of extra effort to build or to hunt the resale shops for donor toys, but the result can be

-Buying poorly painted or assemble minis saves ALOT of cash, but Stripping and repairing minis can take ALOT of time.
Of course some things are a bargain with almost no drawbacks
-Delta ceramcoat paints. 1/8th the price and 90% of the quality.
-Used Minis in good condition. Save 25-50% with almost no drawbacks.

I think it is very possible to make this hobby work at truly bargain prices and achieve above-average results. You don't even have to reinvent the wheel. The methods are already well established, they're just slightly outside the mainstream.

I know I do. I achieve average looking painted figures and somewhat above average looking terrain. I do this while spending a fraction (maybe 20%) of the $ most folks would to achieve similar results and in some cases I've found ways to even spend less time doing it.

 Eilif wrote:

 BigWaaagh wrote:
At the end of the day, I think you get what you pay for in this hobby. You can certainly cut some corners, we all do it, but I've seen a lot of corners cut that ended with $100.'s worth of models crudded up by cheap glues, brushes, primer and paints that saved a couple of bucks, at best. Same with figure cases. I've watched opponents pull out armies from cases that I wouldn't have expected my kid to store his rock collection in and then wait while they spend the next 15 minutes gluing pieces back on...and a rushed glue job always looks so good! I just don't get it.

To a certain extent this is true, but I think more often "paying" a bit of time, can save ALOT of money.

-A properly made foam case based on gun cases is every bit as protective (in many cases more) than a Sabol case at 1/3 or less the cost. Of course you have to take the time to cut and glue cut glue yourself.

-Homebuilt terrain. It may take a bit of extra effort to build or to hunt the resale shops for donor toys, but the result can be

-Buying poorly painted or assemble minis saves ALOT of cash, but Stripping and repairing minis can take ALOT of time.
Of course some things are a bargain with almost no drawbacks
-Delta ceramcoat paints. 1/8th the price and 90% of the quality.
-Used Minis in good condition. Save 25-50% with almost no drawbacks.

I think it is very possible to make this hobby work at truly bargain prices and achieve above-average results. You don't even have to reinvent the wheel. The methods are already well established, they're just slightly outside the mainstream.

I know I do. I achieve average looking painted figures and somewhat above average looking terrain. I do this while spending a fraction (maybe 20%) of the $ most folks would to achieve similar results and in some cases I've found ways to even spend less time doing it.

This. You can boil it down to an equation... Money + Time = Quality. If you short one, but don't compensate with the other, you are going to have lower quality stuff. You could even make the equation Money + Time(Talent) = Quality. Because if you are super talented, you can sculpt stuff yourself at minimal investment and have the highest quality stuff around.

Frankly I'm ashamed to be seen on the same message board with all of you!

What next, using gunball machine space ships for BFG?

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/689209.page

There's a distinction between being cheap and not overpaying. Super glue from Target works fine, there's really no reason to buy GW's.

 BigWaaagh wrote:
At the end of the day, I think you get what you pay for in this hobby. You can certainly cut some corners, we all do it, but I've seen a lot of corners cut that ended with $100.'s worth of models crudded up by cheap glues, brushes, primer and paints that saved a couple of bucks, at best. Same with figure cases. I've watched opponents pull out armies from cases that I wouldn't have expected my kid to store his rock collection in and then wait while they spend the next 15 minutes gluing pieces back on...and a rushed glue job always looks so good! I just don't get it.

There's a certain quality level you don't want to go below. Like you say, a rusty metal tool box isn't a good way to carry figures, but at the other end of the scale, the GW official army boxes aren't any better at protecting figures than a standard plastic suitcase lined with pluck foam than costs less than half.

I usually scratchbuild stuff or snag it cheap of ebay or the like to cut costs. I purist when it comes to pain though and only have gw paint. I've still got pots from ten years ago that a filled with usable paint, just gotta take care of the stuff is all.

I'm like so cheap, I refuse to buy anything from the two GW stockists we have here. I have to say, I usually receive a metric ton of flakk when I ask if someone wants to make a combined order from wayland. (Keep in mind, the stockist doesn't do any kind of % off the product AND while he indeed owns a gaming club, it's in the other side of country)

I also prefer to buy all my other supplies from different places. I/e brushes, basing materials, glue, etc.

My paint collection was 100% GW. About 5 years ago the prices stated to creep beyond what I determined 'value'. My paints are now around 40% GW. I use Foundry Paints now and slowly my GW is being replaced by these. Foundry Paints made the original Citidel Paints GW used to sell. GW £2.55 for 12ml = £0.21 per ml. Foundry Paints are £3.55 for 20ml = £0.17 per ml. Also, if you buy 3 pots of the same set, they discount by £1.50 making it £0.13 per ml.

Foundry paints come in sets of 3. A Shade, Base and Highlight. They are a really good system and do some very realistic skin tones.

Being savy with your spending isn't cheap, it's clever allowing you to buy more. Since the Orks got revamped in 2009, I've not bought a single GW product other than their paints. I play other game systems now which are cheaper and just as good (better in some respects).

I to remember the days GW encouraged people to make their own models, who remembers Gav Thorpes Eldar Grav tank made from a deoderant bottle featured in WD?

If you haven't seen this Dakka has an invaluable paint compatibility chart for most major ranges.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

I was a student and still managed to paint and create things. You learn how to do things on a budget.

Battered minis take time but you can save a fortune money wise.

10 messed up marines, 5 termies and a dread. Superglued like gak, bad, warboss, deff coptas, 20 so boyz, templates and dice +a old set of citisel cutters. Al in. Under 10 pound. Bargin at a charity shop.
Gw oop game, 95% complete minus figures. All in fiver.
Metal marines, a sister of battle and a few metal termies. Cheap in a wrecked space hulk set.

Needed work but a cheap army.
Only new gw bit I used was a tactical box to repace various parts that where too far gone.

 TheSecretSquig wrote:
...who remembers Gav Thorpes Eldar Grav tank made from a deoderant bottle featured in WD?

This Guy and This Guy
The Orgus Grav Attack.

We had an argument with a friend once.

We use sand from the beach to base models. He uses GW sand and said to us "yours isn't proper sand!"

that said I use a variety of paint, Vallejo or AP when they're better, but I don't mind for paying for the good GW paints - the most expensive thing I'm putting into the models is my time.

Sand, sand is sand...
Plus beach sand you get various small rocks

To be honest, if a local flgs sells bits off by the item, like one did with old scrap from trade ins, it was great for a few quid I got ernough random stuff to base to this day.

Hobbies need not cost the earth and the solar system.

GW paints are great, expecially with the base/shade/layer system for newbies.

However other companies do comparable products for cheaper.

I use beach sand too. As mentioned above, you get a realistic variation of grain size and small pebbles. You can sieve it to different grades if you like.

 kronk wrote:
The best red I have used was Reaper Master Series HD Red.

I like your ideas and would like to subscribe to your newsletter.

Seriously though, the reaper HD line is fantastic and very affordable as minis paints go.

It's heartening to see so many people saving money and having fun in the hobby - long may it continue.

I've got a whole bunch of plastic sprue sitting around. Will I throw them out? Hell no!

I'll use them to make terrain pieces.

On the subject of terrain, I couldn't believe what GW and battlefront were charging for plastic craters.

So I make my own.

1 coffee jar lid, put it on a base, and then build up the layers with sand, PVA glue, or polly filler, paint it, and hey, quick, cheap craters.

I get foam card for cheap, or use cereal boxes, and make walls and bunkers out of them.

Drinking straws make great pipes on industrial terrain when they're painted gunmetal.

The list is endless.

If your friend doesn't like you using the "wrong" paint, tell him that he is more than welcome to buy you the "right" paint. I doubt he'll take you up on that offer.

I paint all of my stuff with Americana, Apple Barrel, DecoArt, Delta Cream Coat, Folk Art, and Martha Stewart Craft paints. (alphabetical!) I chuckle every time I use my Martha Stewart Gunmetal paint. I don't know why, really, it just makes me smile. I prime with Gesso; it's not only inexpensive, but also I can use it indoors year-round. I scratch build. It's time-consuming, but fun. I buy models second hand and give them a new life, for pennies on the dollar. I hunt for bargains. I recycle plastic and cardboard into usable terrain and vehicles. I take pride in all of this. And I have a heck of a lot of fun doing it.

I use the box the models come in and the sprue the models come on to make bases for them. I grab the foam padding used to ship PC parts at my place of employment to hold my minis. Heck I even managed to build a whole 2250pt Dark Elf Army using only GW minis (Most OOP) for 180$.

Cheaphammer is the only way to go man.