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Polished off the last of the resin and I'm now thinking of the next job to do. Might be the last cultist squad...

I have plenty of the new box to sell.
Box 4 (crossed) - 26x26x33mm (l, w, h) when constructed. £1.40 each - 20 available.


And I've done a scale shot.

Get them while you can, they're going fast.

Thanks.

Beautiful box(ed) set! The texture got through the moulding and casting in a great way, wood really looks the part!

These are brilliant, got several now and they are simply brilliant.

Littletower wrote:Beautiful box(ed) set! The texture got through the moulding and casting in a great way, wood really looks the part!

Thanks LT.
Considering they were originally carved from sprue,
A mould of them was made with Oyumaru (love that stuff),
Casts from those were made from milliput,
Those casts were then used to make the silicone moulds,
And the final casts are in resin.

The finest of details are retained from the originals. I'm fairly sure even a fingerprint would make it through all those steps. That just goes to show how good the Oyumaru and silicone are.

Camkierhi wrote:These are brilliant, got several now and they are simply brilliant.

Thanks Cam. Glad you like them so much.

Everything has been tidied away now and grey plastic has returned to my workspace. So far they have only been painted grey (primer) and therefore not much to look at. I'll update once colours start to happen.

 Dr H wrote:
Considering they were originally carved from sprue,
A mould of them was made with Oyumaru (love that stuff),
Casts from those were made from milliput,
Those casts were then used to make the silicone moulds,
And the final casts are in resin.

The finest of details are retained from the originals. I'm fairly sure even a fingerprint would make it through all those steps. That just goes to show how good the Oyumaru and silicone are.

One question regarding that: Your process is original -> mould (Oyumaru) -> master cast -> mould (silicone) -> casted resin. Why do you use two mould-cast stages, instead of making the silicone moulds directly from the original carving?

(I am sure there are solid grounds for it; though, not having much experience with casting myself, I just can't see it on my own)

Thanks!

 Littletower wrote:
One question regarding that: Your process is original -> mould (Oyumaru) -> master cast -> mould (silicone) -> casted resin. Why do you use two mould-cast stages, instead of making the silicone moulds directly from the original carving?

(I am sure there are solid grounds for it; though, not having much experience with casting myself, I just can't see it on my own)

Thanks!

It's by no means, the "proper" way to do it. It's just how I do it.

It first came about from when I was doing the boxes (and toilets). Most of the original box carvings are made from sprue that I didn't thin down (cut lengthways into planks) and are therefore much thicker than the final pieces I wanted.

I wanted the walls thin so as to save on resin when casting, save on weight in the final boxes, and to allow people to easily cut the walls to make broken boxes. Therefore saving money for everyone (good for profits and cheap for customers) and having a unique selling point in the world of miniature boxes.

Also, milliput is very nice to work with once it's cured. This allowed me to make the angled edges for where the box sides meet and to carve in the letters on the backs. Both of which allow for easy building.

For the toilets, it was so that I could have multiple copies of the same shape (without having to carve 2 more) so that I could make the mould with multiple copies in and make the casting process more efficient.

So for the latest items, I just stuck to the same process.
I also like having the original laying about (just to say I have it) and the casting masters for when I need to make another mould.

So, a combination of things, and just my way of approaching perfection in my product.

Ok, I have a question Dr H about your process.

Why did you opt to make a 2 piece mold for the boxes when you could have gotten the same result with a single piece mold, if I am correct?

Lovely boxes and tubs.

 Dr H wrote:

 Littletower wrote:
One question regarding that: Your process is original -> mould (Oyumaru) -> master cast -> mould (silicone) -> casted resin. Why do you use two mould-cast stages, instead of making the silicone moulds directly from the original carving?

(I am sure there are solid grounds for it; though, not having much experience with casting myself, I just can't see it on my own)

Thanks!

It's by no means, the "proper" way to do it. It's just how I do it.

It first came about from when I was doing the boxes (and toilets). Most of the original box carvings are made from sprue that I didn't thin down (cut lengthways into planks) and are therefore much thicker than the final pieces I wanted.

I wanted the walls thin so as to save on resin when casting, save on weight in the final boxes, and to allow people to easily cut the walls to make broken boxes. Therefore saving money for everyone (good for profits and cheap for customers) and having a unique selling point in the world of miniature boxes.

Also, milliput is very nice to work with once it's cured. This allowed me to make the angled edges for where the box sides meet and to carve in the letters on the backs. Both of which allow for easy building.

For the toilets, it was so that I could have multiple copies of the same shape (without having to carve 2 more) so that I could make the mould with multiple copies in and make the casting process more efficient.

So for the latest items, I just stuck to the same process.
I also like having the original laying about (just to say I have it) and the casting masters for when I need to make another mould.

So, a combination of things, and just my way of approaching perfection in my product.

Thanks!

Indeed, both reworking on the masters for further improvement of the final product and having several identical copies for a multiple mould are more than sound arguments for the two-stage process.

GamesEtc wrote:Ok, I have a question Dr H about your process.

Why did you opt to make a 2 piece mold for the boxes when you could have gotten the same result with a single piece mold, if I am correct?

It may have been possible to do most of the box pieces in a one piece mould. Even the angled rear edges.
However, I have letters and numbers carved into the back of each piece. While not a huge thing, as it's not the most difficult thing to assemble, I wanted these retained on each piece.

I was also experimenting (and maybe a bit carried away) with making model kits on a single sprue (Wood textured sprue at that), to give a professional look.

Maybe, when I do more boxes (I have plans for more futuristic-looking boxes), they may be done in single piece moulds.

cormadepanda wrote:Lovely boxes and tubs.

Thanks Comrade.

Littletower wrote:Thanks!

Indeed, both reworking on the masters for further improvement of the final product and having several identical copies for a multiple mould are more than sound arguments for the two-stage process.

Glad it makes sense. I'm still at the making-this-all-up-as-I-go stage. Learning all the time.

I said I had started painting, so here's the proof:


The second cultist squad from Dark Vengeance.
I've only done the skin so far (as you can tell from the blackness of the rest of them) and it's not entirely finished yet; I still have to do eyes, lips, scars, stubble, and tattoos (maybe).

There is one change in my usual process; I have already based these. As with most of the previous Dark Vengeance models, these are slot based and while it is possible to glue them into the bases and then add your chosen base material around the feet, this (I feel) would make them look like they are sinking into the ground and I want them standing on the ground.

So my process (if there is anyone interested) is to spread PVA on the empty base and sprinkle on the basing material (the carbon grains from a britta water filter). I press this down gently to get a flat surface and make sure it's stuck into the glue.

Then I place the model into it's slot. Normally, I'm doing this at the end and always had to be careful with the paint job and thought that it made more sense to do this now and not worry about the paint. The models feet are now on top of the ground. I then fill in the gaps where the slot is and give the whole base a going over with water/PVA to tie it all together.

Once it's all dry, I go over the base and pick off any bits that aren't sitting right. Then it's just a matter of painting it all.
Just because they are fairly plain and boring bases, doesn't mean I don't give them my usual attention to detail.

Thanks. More later when I've done it.



Automatically Appended Next Post:
If someone would be so kind as to give me a bump, I'll post up the added details. Ta.

Isn't bumping consider a Spam post? I'm not so sure I should be giving bumps then.

Hmmm, I'm conflicted. To bump or to not bump.

Visually disturbing, those minis. One may wonder how deeply into the BDSM scene the GW people happened to be. Personally, I decided it's best not to know, eh?

 Red Harvest wrote:
Isn't bumping consider a Spam post? I'm not so sure I should be giving bumps then.

Hmmm, I'm conflicted. To bump or to not bump.

Visually disturbing, those minis. One may wonder how deeply into the BDSM scene the GW people happened to be. Personally, I decided it's best not to know, eh?

It's good that you should be so concious of not spamming the forum. It's for a good cause...

Yeah, it's probably best not to think to hard along those line... People do put a lot of themselves into what they create, but... yeah...

While the colour balance and flaring in these photos are playing up, you can at least see the shading and the details.

You will just have to believe me when I say they look better in real life for now. Better photos will happen as they progress.

What I'm aiming for with this bunch is a dirty, decrepit, run-down look. Their skin (should) look pale and ill, but not lifeless zombie ill. Their clothing will be faded and worn and the weapons and metals will be dull and rusty.

Thoughts are always welcome.

 Red Harvest wrote:
Isn't bumping consider a Spam post? I'm not so sure I should be giving bumps then.

Hmmm, I'm conflicted. To bump or to not bump.

Dont think of it as bumping, think of it as helping the OP with the auto-append feature =D



Anyways, is that a fuel tank from the IG models? Doesn't look like the ones I have.

Nothing to add, skins are coming along (disgustingly) well.

GamesEtc wrote:... is that a fuel tank from the IG models? Doesn't look like the ones I have.

It's the one that comes in the kit (Dark Vengeance). I have not altered it at all.

Littletower wrote:Nothing to add, skins are coming along (disgustingly) well.

Thanks LT.

I've started adding colours now.


Still a few bits to touch up. The blacks haven't been started yet, the white still needs to be taken up to white and some of the shadows and holes may need a touch of black.

Their boots will all be the same and will be the one thing tying them all together as a squad.

Getting there, but much more to do...

Looking good! the sallow skin is so right for these guys

Nice skin tone, but do a black one too. 40k is so white.

Excellent work again, tones are great, looking brilliant.

shasolenzabi wrote:Looking good! the sallow skin is so right for these guys

Thanks. Yes, together with the faded clothes and (soon to be) rusty metals, it is the fitting look I have gone for. Hopefully, while still looking unique from the GW official scheme... ?

cormadepanda wrote:Nice skin tone, but do a black one too. 40k is so white.

Thanks. Skin tones can be seen better in the latest pictures below.
I did do a black one in the last group. I couldn't think of a way of making an ill-looking black chap for this group and so he would have stood out too much.

I did try to give these some variation in skin tones, but they all worked towards being mostly the same...

Camkierhi wrote:Excellent work again, tones are great, looking brilliant.

Thanks Cam. More progress below...

So, the clothing is mostly done and the leathers are also done.
Also, with the advent of using a white background, you can actually see the skin without the camera whiting out.


Still to do are the metals, pouches, Hair (on the last pair), lenses, and weathering.
and I must remember to drill the barrels... might do that now, before I forget.

A good method to vary skin tones Dr. is to use different color washes. Examples being orange washes for oriental and things of that sort. Also changing the base color works well.

 cormadepanda wrote:
A good method to vary skin tones Dr. is to use different color washes. Examples being orange washes for oriental and things of that sort. Also changing the base color works well.

Thanks Comrade.
I shall have to try different washes next time. I had half of these done with a darker base coat than the other half and it made no difference this time.
Although I don't use washes that much. I shall experiment next time I have the chance.

No major progress today. I have started on the metals and on some of the smaller details, but not enough to be worthy of a picture yet.

I have pushed on and finished the cultists.

Sect Anarkus, GO!


Here's the man, Anarkus and his right-hand-man, "Cook".


And the rest of them;



They were quite fun the paint, especially "Cook".
I'll let you all know when they are up on ebay.

Now I can get on with my tank...

They came out good dr h. Really love the white shades you are making.

 cormadepanda wrote:
They came out good dr h. Really love the white shades you are making.

Thanks Comrade.
Yeah, I'm quite happy with my white method now; 3 layers from black to grey to light grey and then highlight with white.

Oh they do look like a scabrous bunch! well done Dr. H!

 Dr H wrote:

 cormadepanda wrote:
They came out good dr h. Really love the white shades you are making.

Thanks Comrade.
Yeah, I'm quite happy with my white method now; 3 layers from black to grey to light grey and then highlight with white.

An excellent method. Will have to try it.

shasolenzabi wrote:Oh they do look like a scabrous bunch! well done Dr. H!

Thanks Shas.

cormadepanda wrote:

 Dr H wrote:

 cormadepanda wrote:
They came out good dr h. Really love the white shades you are making.

Thanks Comrade.
Yeah, I'm quite happy with my white method now; 3 layers from black to grey to light grey and then highlight with white.

An excellent method. Will have to try it.

and I use thin layers of paint, especially the white, and gradually build the highlights up to white. It's a similar technique I use for the skin (although that has many more layers and shades involved).

For reference (you will have to look up conversions to your preferred paint) I use these paints:
33 (black) - black is black in any paint though.
27 (Sea Grey) - fairly normal, medium to dark grey. Cover all the black, unless there are some really deep, sharp, recesses.
Sometimes I may use 64 (light grey) here if I need help blending up to the lighter shades.
147 (Light Grey) - this one is actually so light it almost looks white (until you put something white next to it). Usually a couple of thin passes to give a graduation from the darker grey.
34 (white) - white is also white in any paint. Add in really thin layers and gradually build up to white at the highlights and give the appearance of a smooth blend from the darker shadows up to the highlights.

Then just pay attention to how the light will fall on the object and paint to match reality: peaks and upper surfaces = white, recesses and lower/under surfaces = darker grey.

Yeah, my current white is a rough, but somewhat effective method. Dry brush with a dirty white, about a 1:10. 1 grey, 10 white. Fill the piece solid. Then wash with black (nulin oil) and then go back in white pure white in layers picking out details and light falling methods. Your method sounds much neater. Thank you for the more in-depth approach.

Hope it works out for you Comrade, I'm very happy with how it works for me. Seeing your method, I couldn't help thinking that washing with grey rather than black would be better. Black may be too harsh. I could be wrong, I don't know those paints.

The cultists are up on ebay after a brief delay. You know you want them.

I'll be back soon(ish) with the next job once I've finished this tank of mine...

Aha so this is why you've taken so long on the tank! You've been busy. Nice cultists! Always wanted to paint those.