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Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




Hello Guys

I recently changed to army painter matt black primer from the cheapo enamel primer. However all my attempts of priming models have come out powdery or fuzzy.
i tried shaking the can for 5-10 minutes and the issue still resides. If i am lazy and continue painting over it, will the finished product still be fuzzy? I do not wish to strip these GW finecast models since there are very thin brittle parts which may break when i try to scrub paint off.

Thanks.
   
Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon






On the Ice World of Fenris....running with the wolves...

Not really sure, I would suggest maby returning the can? I just had a Can of Army Painter white matte primer and it started to melt my GW models and right know im trying to get it sorted out.

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Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





Be careful if it has come out powdery as it will not hold to the model and start to rub and peel off
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




ReaverRider wrote:Hello Guys

I recently changed to army painter matt black primer from the cheapo enamel primer. However all my attempts of priming models have come out powdery or fuzzy.
i tried shaking the can for 5-10 minutes and the issue still resides. If i am lazy and continue painting over it, will the finished product still be fuzzy? I do not wish to strip these GW finecast models since there are very thin brittle parts which may break when i try to scrub paint off.

Thanks.


Are you priming outside (we are in the middle of winter)? It is best to prime at room temperature if you can swing it.
   
Made in de
Decrepit Dakkanaut







1.) Army painter spray has to be used differently than GW primer. You need to get closer and make shorter bursts. Guess when you are too far away, the paint dries in the air and reaches the model as a dry paintball.
2.) If it is too cold, similar things can happen, but being summer in Australia, I don't think that is an issue.

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If you want to understand the concept of the "Greater Good", read this article, and you never again call Tau commies: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utilitarianism 
   
Made in us
Stalwart Space Marine





Princeton, WV

This time of year can be hell on priming models. As NoArmorSave stated, the best is to prime at room temperature or at least prime outside and immediately bring it in after spraying to let it dry. By doing this you'll keep the matte from turning to gloss or keep it from being powdery. The melting models part seems like a bad break to me, I've never seen Army Painter do this to models.

Primarch-Progenitor, to your glory and the glory of him on earth!
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Eldar: 6 - 1 - 0
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Imperial Guard: 2 - 2 - 0
Chaos Daemons: 3 - 1 - 0


 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




I'm spraying at 12 inches away in short to medium bursts.
Unfortunately i am getting quite abit of mixed results. Only 1/4 times, I've got a smooth finish.
I'm starting to think that the best time to prime would be in the evening where it is a bit cooler and not as dry.
   
Made in us
Yellin' Yoof on a Scooter




Nebraska

It might just be the can.

But for best results, I usually go with quick bursts at room temperature with low humidity. If you try another can and get the same results, I might recommend building a simple painting box. Get a decent-sized cardboard box, like an old monitor/TV box, and a sheet of clear plastic large enough to cover the open portion and allow room for your arm with the can. I also added a lazy-Susan or "rotating tray" to make it easier to access the model.

It allows you to control the humidity and temperature to a degree, helps keep your passes and distance uniform, as well. Then you just fold it up and put it away.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/01/19 17:44:25


2000+ WAAAAGH Redklaw 
   
Made in gb
Nimble Mounted Yeoman



Middle Earth

I had the opposite problem. Citadel black primer kept leaving my minis chalky and powdery so i switched to army painter. Humidity and temperature do play a big part in the process. Recently ruined a panzer IV when the final varnish coat pooled and turned white

Wasting my life away, one wargame at a time. 
   
Made in us
Implacable Skitarii




Northwest Arkansas

I have traditionally had more problem with white primer being powdery than with black. I have tried a great many different primers and have actually had the best and most consistent results using the $1 can of flat white and flat black from WalMart. GW's primers are so hit or miss on what you are getting I gave up on them years ago. I have used the army painter and I have gotten great results with the white, and then the next can would be powdery. I have also had some pretty good luck with armoury white primer.

The $1 can of flat white spray paint hasn't fuzzed up on me once. I have sprayed with it raining out side, below freezing, over 100 degrees, inside, in a garage, too close, too far and it has always been the same result. I have people tell me they won't use it because it isn't a 'true' primer but I have painted about four full armies with it and haven't had a lick of problem with it.
   
Made in us
Sadistic Inquisitorial Excruciator






DC Suburbs

Sorry to hear about this, fuzzy primer is so frustrating! I second Kroothawk's explanation of how this comes to be, as that is my understanding as well.

I had a bad case of fuzzy primer using Armory primer several years ago. I, too, hoped that painting over it would cover or fill the fuzz, or smooth it, but no. The fuzz pulled the paint in all sorts of weird directions... there was no possible way to paint precisely. Those minis were relegated to back ranks and as first to die. I didn't strip these guys because I had already painted them and just couldn't bear the thought of painting them... again.

You may be able to use a soft brush to remove some of the fuzz, depending on how dry the paint was before hitting, but that may not work. Stripping may be the only viable option, unfortunately. Personally I have found that stripping ArmyPainter primer is much more difficult than usual (for Greenskin at least). Simple Green, and the purple stuff recommended widely here (can't remember brand), were completely ineffective for me.

Anyway, good luck, and again, sorry to hear about your fuzzy primer.

"When your only tools are duct tape and a shovel, all of life's problems start to look the same!" - kronk

"Evil will always triumph because good is dumb." - Darth Helmet

"History...is, indeed, little more than the register of the crimes, follies, and misfortune of mankind" - Edward Gibbon, The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




I had to strip the paint and simple green didnt work too well, so i used detol. After a few hours, i managed to scrub my sorceress clean, but she sustained some injuries, due to the problem of resin finecast models.
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Houston, TX

ReaverRider wrote:I'm spraying at 12 inches away in short to medium bursts.


You are spraying it too far away, the paint is drying before it hits the model. Army Painter likes 20cm MAX distance to the model. That is 7.8"!

When spraying that close, be careful not to drown the model in the paint (very easy to do) you will lose detail.

Also, once you have basecoated you might want to hit it with dull coat before you paint on it. Sometimes paint doesn't stick to Army Painter and washes act real funny.

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Made in br
Savage Khorne Berserker Biker






I second on it being the can. I can happen sometimes of it was improperly stored or old when you got it.

My first batch of 40K models were primed with a GW can of Skull White that took on a powdery, chalky texture, despite help from more experienced players when we did the priming. It took paint badly and almost ruined the models.

Only now, an year or so later, I managed to peel it all off and start re-painting them from scratch.

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In Warhammer 40K, you're expected to pay cash out of your pocket for the privilege of having Marines and IG trample all over your Xenos/Chaos. 
   
Made in de
Decrepit Dakkanaut







This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/05/11 19:58:52


Hive Fleet Ouroboros (my Tyranid blog): http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/286852.page
The Dusk-Wraiths of Szith Morcane (my Dark Eldar blog): http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/364786.page
Kroothawk's Malifaux Blog http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/455759.page
If you want to understand the concept of the "Greater Good", read this article, and you never again call Tau commies: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utilitarianism 
   
Made in gb
Lurking Gaunt




Had a can of that stuff myself, found it to be utter rubbish. Returned it within 24 hours of delivery.
   
 
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