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Made in au
Yellin' Yoof




Brisbane


Pretty excited about this one. i know it's no where near the standard of some of the stuff on here.

But none the less ithis is probably my best work so far.

[img]http://yfrog.com/ob7pcysj[img]

[img]http://yfrog.com/g0ej6pij[img]

There are more to look at http://3mpecee2.wordpress.com/2012/01/25/big-mek-with-kustom-force-field/
if you like.
[Thumb - BMK1.jpg]

[Thumb - bmk3.jpg]


http://3mpecee2.wordpress.com/

Stuff is good

4000 Orks and climbing

Wins: 9
Draws: 6
Lost: 10 
   
Made in au
Stabbin' Skarboy






Queensland (Australia)

I would consider using the appropriate washes on certain areas; the metal, skin, red cloth, it would make this mini ALOT better.

Nice brush control, but when it comes to orks, you cna't go wrong with washes!

The Humies Waste presious time with slow and boring speeches; While the Oks just get it over and done with in one simple WAAGGGHHHH!!
My Dakka Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/422595.page
My Blog: http://apainterstabletop.blogspot.com/
 
   
Made in us
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel






Boulder, CO

Much like the suggestions I had about your Deff Dred.

There are a million tuts on Ork skin. At the very least, do some washes.

Details are better on this model, but could use some more touch up. Especially the eyes.
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator






Dry Brush, take your time, and or use a wash like delvan mud or thraka green.

 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block




Fresno, CA

Your silver and bronze metal are good quality.

From the skin and face it looks like you might be doing the job with too large of a brush and aren't getting the detail that you are shooting for. A big brush without a nice point won't get you the results you want. I would use a size 00 or size 0 brush for the flesh. It will take longer to paint but you will have more control.
   
 
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