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Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Fun fact that I just learned:

Oomoo 25 sets too quickly for you to apply a brushed on layer with the same batch you use for the body of the mold. If you want to brush on a layer first to make sure there are no surface bubbles, mix a small batch just for that.

Hopefully I salvaged this mold I just poured, I'll find out tomorrow if it worked.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Shas'ui with Bonding Knife




Leeds, Uk

This is some awesome things all around.
Subbed
Spud 11th Legion

I am Gamesworkshop! 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

@Spudkins - Thanks!

@Aerethan - How did your mould recovery go?

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

It worked well enough. A little too much Part B, so the mold is rather soft but I made it thick enough to not tear. Most importantly is that the casts come out pretty decently.


I've finally also started to dust my molds with talc and that has improved casts in 2 part molds significantly. I haven't tried using my Mold Release 200 yet.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

I have always found Talc to be easier to get a thin even coating with as you can tap the mould upside down to rid it of excess where mould release often pools at the bottom, TBH though I haven' t used mould release in around 7-8 years so my memory might be getting a little hazy.... all those resin fumes!

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in gb
Emboldened Warlock




Has anyone used here?

www.mbfg.co.uk

They're just down the road from me so I'm thinking of picking up some stuff to make some resin bases for my army. Trying to avoid picking stuff up online as the postage from mainland uk to here is quite pricey.

Speaking of which, do Silicon molds break down over time? I know the deteriorate through use but I'll probably be only casting very occasionally for my bases as and when required and don't want the mold to go "off" so to say in the months where its not being used.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/02/13 20:38:41


 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I've got a few molds that are a good few years old and they work just fine. They may discolor from use as the resin reacts slightly with the rubber, but it shouldn't loose it's elasticity just from sitting on the shelf.

For long term storage however, you should have the molds powdered with talc and stored in a dark cool area. Leaving them in the sun(they have sunshine in Belfast right?) could possibly mess with them.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Emboldened Warlock




 Aerethan wrote:
I've got a few molds that are a good few years old and they work just fine. They may discolor from use as the resin reacts slightly with the rubber, but it shouldn't loose it's elasticity just from sitting on the shelf.

For long term storage however, you should have the molds powdered with talc and stored in a dark cool area. Leaving them in the sun(they have sunshine in Belfast right?) could possibly mess with them.


We do occasional see some a strange ball of light in the sky when its not overcast, not sure what this Sunshine thing is.

Cheers for the advice
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





I like to use a more slow curing rubber for my molds. Since the resin bits cast quickly but molds last a long time no need to rush.

I'll typically use a rubber with at a least a 4 hour cure time and I won't cast for at least 12 hours after curing.

Anyway Once I pour the rubber I go do some laundry, and set the mold on the lid. The vibrations from the dryer vibrates the mold, and releases all the air bubbles which come to the surface.

I've never gotten a bad mold with this technique. It also came as a tip from someone who works at forgeworld although I think they have a special vibrating table which is much more hi-tech than my laundry dryer. lol.

Truth is while pressure casting, and vacuuming rubber, and resin gets the best results. The cost of equipment, part size limitations, and added time only exacerbate the process.

I've found I try to use resins that don't have insanely short cure times. Sure we all want the parts now but the cast results from a 30 - 45 minute cure resin are vastly improved over a 15 minute cure resin. Also I use a spray in mold release even when no necessary. A lot of people try to avoid this as it add's "cost" however it also works to help eliminate bubbles in the surface of the mold. So the $10 spray can will last for 100's of casts, and will cause less miss-casts = savings. It also extends the molds life which = more savings.

It's pretty much a $100 process to figure out how to cast anything beyond bases, or basic large pieces.

I use Smooth-On rubber and resin I find it so far to be the best I've used personally.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/02/14 14:56:45


 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Agreed. Right now I use 30 minute set resin (Smooth Cast 305 iirc) which I let sit for about 35 minutes before I demold it. I went with longer cure time because it meant longer working time, which when you are trying to fill 8-10 molds in a batch is much needed.

Oomoo has about a 6 hour cure iirc but I let them sit until the next day before use, mostly because I make them at night so that they cure while I'm sleeping.

Pressure casting and vacuum chambers are really only worth the investment if you intend to mass produce and sell. For my projects it's much cheaper to just use LGS or putty to fill in any micro bubbles.

I like the idea of putting new molds on a washer or dryer to agitate bubbles out.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Boosting Space Marine Biker






Sidney (Home of Nothing), OH. USA

WOW!!! I just learned more reading through this than I did my entire senior year of high school!! LOL!! That being said, have any of you had any experience with large scale resin casting? I'm talking 'ol school Armorcast style stuff. I have sculpted a Mycetic Spore for my 'nids and I want to cast a whole bunch of them. I realize that the basic premise is the same, but I'm wondering if there are better products for this scale than the ones that are being used to do the 'flat' and small scale casting??? Thanks and I'll definitely post my results, once I get to it!

WarPaint Miniature Studios is currently accepting select commissions! PM if interested!

http://www.facebook.com/WarPaintMiniatureStudios/

 
   
Made in us
Elite Tyranid Warrior



East TN

J'santai, I am sending you a PM that might help

31,600 points
38750 points before upgrades
My hobby blog http://warfrog.blogspot.com/ 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

@J'santai - Thanks for posting, I am really glad that the accumulated knowledge here is of help It's been so cool to have people post up their tips and advice for everyone to benefit from. The fact that many of them like Aerethan and theunicorn obviously continue to monitor the thread and offer help is a real credit to Dakka and it's users. As for large scale casting I am afraid I am no real help but hopefully the info that Theunicorn has sent is.

@theunicorn - Thanks!

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Ill pm you too



 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

You guys might have already seen this thread but I thought I had to link to it

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/554272.page;jsessionid=428DA9A901B5A819DA85CFCC406DC1F9

A fantastic Step by step of a dragon sculpt but the real gem is the video on the spincasting process, a must watch for all you guys who want to try their hand at casting their own sculpts

Cheers,

BLACKHAND

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Thats pretty awesome! I need to get a rig like that! Wow! Thanks Blackhand!



 
   
Made in us
Focused Fire Warrior




San Antonio, TX

Just bought some Lego pieces, EasyCast Resin, OOMOO 30 Rubber.............once it arrives, the games will begin.

Probably start small, learn by doing custom bases and shoulder pads and work my way up from there. I'll take pictures and contribute as much as I can to this thread.

Thanks for inspiring me guys!

   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

foto69man wrote:
Just bought some Lego pieces, EasyCast Resin, OOMOO 30 Rubber.............once it arrives, the games will begin.

Probably start small, learn by doing custom bases and shoulder pads and work my way up from there. I'll take pictures and contribute as much as I can to this thread.

Thanks for inspiring me guys!



Is EasyCast the clear stuff at Michaels? I have some of it but it didn't set right when I tried it out, was all rubbery.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Raleigh, NC

 Aerethan wrote:
foto69man wrote:
Just bought some Lego pieces, EasyCast Resin, OOMOO 30 Rubber.............once it arrives, the games will begin.

Probably start small, learn by doing custom bases and shoulder pads and work my way up from there. I'll take pictures and contribute as much as I can to this thread.

Thanks for inspiring me guys!



Is EasyCast the clear stuff at Michaels? I have some of it but it didn't set right when I tried it out, was all rubbery.


Yeah I've got some of that too. I haven't even used it yet, but I was thinking about trying it out to make medallions with some large hornets I picked up after taking out their nest.

DA:80S+GMB--I+Pw40k97-D++A++/fWD250R+T(M)DM+
2nd Co. Doom Eagles
World Eaters
High Elves 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

Easycast clear can be tricky, got to stick to the ratio very closely. Some of the pieces I cast with it was hard on the outside but still soft on the inside.

Would be nice to find a 1:1 clear resin , much simpler.

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Raleigh, NC

 BLACKHAND wrote:
Easycast clear can be tricky, got to stick to the ratio very closely. Some of the pieces I cast with it was hard on the outside but still soft on the inside.

Would be nice to find a 1:1 clear resin , much simpler.


http://www.michaels.com/Castin'-Craft-Clear-Casting-Resin-with-Catalyst/gc1703,default,pd.html

That's what I've got. It's 1:1. Maybe there's a different item/brand with the same name in NZ?

DA:80S+GMB--I+Pw40k97-D++A++/fWD250R+T(M)DM+
2nd Co. Doom Eagles
World Eaters
High Elves 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

 JWMarines wrote:
 BLACKHAND wrote:
Easycast clear can be tricky, got to stick to the ratio very closely. Some of the pieces I cast with it was hard on the outside but still soft on the inside.

Would be nice to find a 1:1 clear resin , much simpler.


http://www.michaels.com/Castin'-Craft-Clear-Casting-Resin-with-Catalyst/gc1703,default,pd.html

That's what I've got. It's 1:1. Maybe there's a different item/brand with the same name in NZ?


Nope, that's the stuff I'm talking about. It's 1:1, but that damn well better be a NASA precision mix, otherwise you end up with slightly yellowed casts that are similar in feel to Reaper Bones plastic. Very soft.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





 BLACKHAND wrote:
Easycast clear can be tricky, got to stick to the ratio very closely. Some of the pieces I cast with it was hard on the outside but still soft on the inside.

Would be nice to find a 1:1 clear resin , much simpler.


Smooth-cast 326 is AMAZING. Its changed my casting life forever. It has a long pot life, which helps me not only cast multiple molds, but put them in the pressure pot and pressurize it in time to actually make a difference. Its a very forgiving 1:1 ratio clear resin. Ive dyed it transparent red (got the color for making motorcycle tailights) and opaque black. Ive recently found if you dont add enough black dye (I just reused the container I measure the ratios in) it tints it, so I have some black tinted clear pieces. Otherwise it comes out, as they say in arabic, clear as the sun.



 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I prefer Smooth Cast 300 and 305(the longer set time).

The 5 minute demold is nice for bases and small parts, the 30 minute set is nice for doing larger pieces or more molds at once. I really need to get a degassing setup going.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Hes looking for clear resin Aerethan.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
They were out of 305, thats how I wound up and fell in love with 326



Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh if you vacuum chamber resin, it, like goes insane and makes one hell of a mess.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2013/10/05 00:37:06




 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Ah, my only experience with clear is that easy cast stuff.

Would a pressure cast setup be better for casting? mostly same equipment besides the pump.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





I use the same thing for my vacuum chamber/pressure pot. Saves money, and you need an air compressor instead of a vacuum pump, and dont go cheap and get a pancake 2 1/2 gal air compressor, get atleast a 10 gallon compressor. The longer it takes for your tank to fill, the more likely air bubbles will form.



 
   
Made in tr
Focused Fire Warrior




San Antonio, TX

So.......................I finally got around to making/trying a mold.



Lessons learned so far:
1. Don't make your mold too big dummy...
2. Making your mold too big means you only had enough materials for one side of the mold...
3. Always assume your not mixing enough rubber...trying to repour and stir more is a royal pain
4. You can never have enough legos

That's about it for now. I have to get more rubber now, and then tomorrow I will wait and see how this half of the mold looks

   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I always try to mix less than I think I'll need. As long as the surfaces get covered the first time, you can always add more rubber to bulk up the back of the mold.

But yes, that is a very large mold you made there!

Luckily I have 2 sons, so legos are in no short supply around here!

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in tr
Focused Fire Warrior




San Antonio, TX

 Aerethan wrote:
I always try to mix less than I think I'll need. As long as the surfaces get covered the first time, you can always add more rubber to bulk up the back of the mold.

But yes, that is a very large mold you made there!

Luckily I have 2 sons, so legos are in no short supply around here!


Well I am stationed in Turkey, so I will have to see if I can find more of the OOMMOO 30 here. Last time I sent it to families house in the states and they mailed it on to me. Until then, well...only half the mold will be made

   
 
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