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Made in us
[DCM]
Six Foot Irradiated Hobbit






You've been VERY prolific in your hobby lately! The ancients are fantastic! I really want to get into historicals in 28mm myself, so I'll be watching these progress man!

"dave you are the definition of old school..." -Viktor Von Domm My P&M Blog :
It's great how just adding a little iconography, and rivets of course, can make something look distinctly 40K-adamsouza
"Ah yes, the sound of riveting.....Swear word after swear word and the clinking of thrown tools" "Nope. It sucks do it again..."- mxwllmdr
"It puts together more terrain, or else it gets the hose again...-dangledorf2.0
"This is the Imperium, there is no peace, there are only rivets" -Vitruvian XVII
"I think rivets are the perfect solution to almost every problem"- Rawson
 
   
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Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

leohart wrote:Now he can go out there and lose with style. Bwahahahahha.


At least his models will look good when on the table. Haha.

dsteingass wrote:You've been VERY prolific in your hobby lately! The ancients are fantastic! I really want to get into historicals in 28mm myself, so I'll be watching these progress man!


Thank you! There is so much on my tables to be built and painted.

0. Red Ork Waaaagh
1. Mordian Iron Guard
2. Space Wolves
3. Warhammer Ancients Saxons / Vikings
4. Bretonnian Batallion
5. Warmachine Cygnar
6. Warmachine Khador
7. Warmachine Mercenary
8. LOTR Riders & Warriors of Rohan ( These will be used with the Saxon/Viking Army )
9. High Elves - 2x Silver Helm Regiment
10. Dark Eldar
11. Dwarf Hammerers
12. Warmachine Menoth
13. Cadians
14. Catachans

Just a ridiculous amount of models, its all a bit daunting and I'm in talks with a couple of other people about commission work for them. It looks like I might be investing in an airbrush set up to help speed the process along, but as of right now, everything is being hand painted.

For the Ork Commission, I'm so close to being done its silly. I'm not getting paid to do any conversion work to the converted land raider, but I can see how to make it look better. Though without talking to the guy ( I'll see him Monday night ) I won't get a go ahead. I'm debating just finishing this up and handing it off to him on monday night as it will be. He gave me no instructions or directions other than "just paint it" so I've done that.

I don't think I'll ever be satisfied with the paint job on them though.







Automatically Appended Next Post:
Status of Ork Army Commission begun 10 Mar 2012










And some close ups of the Ork Tankk








This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2012/04/07 12:58:03


   
Made in us
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran





Houston, TX

That is a lot of dakkadakka.
   
Made in au
Scarred Ultramarine Tyrannic War Veteran






Melbourne, Australia

leohart wrote:That is a lot of dakkadakka.


Indeed it is!

Those Red Orks are looking amazing.

But SERIOUSLY he said no basing. They would just look a tad unfinished without basing.

"Whilst we stand, we fight. Whilst we fight, we prevail. Nothing shall stay our wrath"
Gulliman and the Ultramarines are like Manchester United, everyone hates them because they are so awesome!

 
   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

leohart wrote:That is a lot of dakkadakka.


It is a lot of models. Hopefully you'll enjoy shooting them up, but I hope the give as good as they get.

Flying Pooo wrote:
leohart wrote:That is a lot of dakkadakka.


Indeed it is! Those Red Orks are looking amazing. But SERIOUSLY he said no basing. They would just look a tad unfinished without basing.


Thanks Poo! Thats 90 models in less than 30 days.

Yes, the basing issue rears its ugly head. I've got a little time and some basing product I'd love to hit these guys with and it would improve them 100% Yet without the go ahead, they'll remain basing-less.



I got to paint a little bit more on the orks, working on the tankk, then tweaked my Warhammer Ancients list a bit.


Awesome, I'm still reading up on the rules and trying to get them settled in my head as well as build this list up. I'll keep the Javelins in this list and add another Ealdorman for the fourth infantry unit, I've given alpha designations to each Ealdorman to help identify them, when I paint the units I'll probably color code them.

Saxons

Characters:
Eorl 2Xh weapon/Jav 155pts +3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 162pts
Ealdorman (A) w/ ASB/Jav is 83pts +25(ASB)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 112pts
Ealdorman (B) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (C) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (D) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (E) Jav/Horse 83pts+1(Javelins)+9(Horse)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 97pts
Total: 633

Shieldwall Infantry:

Unit 1 (+ ASB(Ealdorman (A)) and Eorl)
14 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 14x9(Thegns)+1x14(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x14(Throwing Spear)+2x14(LightArmor) = 216
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?) = 128
Total: 344

Unit 2 (+ Ealdorman B):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd? = 128
Total: 383

Unit 3 (+ Ealdorman C):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?)= 128
Total: 383

Unit 4 (+ Ealdorman D):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?) = 128
Total: 383

Unit 5 (+ Ealdorman E): Cavalry
11 Mounted Thegns/FC/Javelins = 11x9(Thegns 99) + 11x12(Mounted 132) +11x1(Javelins 11) +15(FC)+2x11(Throwing Spear)+2x11(LightArmor) = 301
Total: 301

Skirmishers:
9 X Geburs w/slings = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free (slings) = 54
9 X Geburs w/Javelins = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free (Javelins) = 54
9 X Geburs w/Javelins = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free (Javelins) = 54
27 models
Total: 162

Army Total: 2597

Leaving 204pts for:

Vikings, 10x14 = 140pts +20Lightarmor +20Thrusting/Throwing Spear =180? +3x8 2hnd weapons gets us to 204

Or:
Skirmishers 26x6(Skirmishers) +1x26 (Bows) = 156 + 26 = 182
leaving 204 - 182 = 22pts / 6 (Skirmishers) = 3.7 more.

   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

Lots of things going on here on my painting table!

I've got to build a Pathfinder RPG character for a new campaign coming up, I need to tweak my Warhammer ancients army list, I need to read up on WFB & 40K, I need to wrap my head around some other Warcasters for Warmachine/Hordes..

.. and I've still got to get some work done as well as paint models

There is so much on my tables to be built and painted.

0. Red Ork Waaaagh - Almost completed!
1. Mordian Iron Guard - 200+ models & Vehicles
2. Space Wolves - 100 Models & Vehicles
3. Warhammer Ancients Saxons / Vikings - 300 + Models
4. Bretonnian Batallion Box set
5. Warmachine Cygnar - 200 models
6. Warmachine Khador - 30 models
7. Warmachine Mercenary - 50 models
8. LOTR Riders & Warriors of Rohan ( These will be used with the Saxon/Viking Army ) - 60 models
9. High Elves - 2x Silver Helm Regiment - 20 models
10. Dark Eldar - 20 Models
11. Dwarf Hammerers - 5 models
12. Warmachine Menoth - 15 models
13. Cadians - army box + several commands
14. Catachans - army box + several commands
15. Fenris IG Concept - 24 models
16. Chaos SM - needs to be rebuilt/fixed.
17. Warriors of Chaos - 5 Cavalry models.

There's probably some more models on the tables that need to be worked on as well.

Just a ridiculous amount of models, its all a bit daunting and I'm in talks with a couple of other people about commission work for them. It looks like I might be investing in an airbrush set up to help speed the process along, but as of right now, everything is being hand painted.

It just sounds daunting and it is... lol. the dwarf hammerers I only have 5 of right now, thats the smallest amount of models I have to paint, most of those are in the 100+ models range.

Its not so bad, I'm going to hit the saxons with army painter primer Leather Brown, then hit the metal bits with chainmail or boltgun and then brush on the army painter dark shade. I could probably do the entire army (once built) in a week that way. They won't look individualized and unique though.

I'll most likely do something more for the models though. the army painter shade (which I later found out is similar to minwax ) shades as well as varnishes, so I'm a bit worried about painting over a varnish and having the paint come off or not stick.

I've got a can of citadel dull coate, but I haven't used it before, so that will most likely be my first attempts at learning how to use it. I've also heard good things about Testors dull cote, yet haven't used it.

I've heard bad things on the GW stuff. I like price point for testors, bt I know some friends who don't like it. I won't know til I use it.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Posting these here so I don't lose them jumping from PC to PC.

http://wabforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=7965&p=104654#p104654

http://turbilminiatures.blogspot.com/2012/01/viking-fortress-village.html

http://www.warandpeacegames.com.au/shop/productBrowse.do?categoryId=1729

http://saskminigamer.blogspot.com/p/28mm-dark-ages.html

http://www.houston-rpg.com/

Japanese Army Composition List from Warhammer Ancients - Armies of Antiquity v2.0



Late Saxon Kingdoms Army Composition List from Warhammer Ancients - Armies of Antiquity v2.0

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2012/04/09 14:00:45


   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

Updated pics of the Big Red Waaagh!!

The Army as a whole:








DefCopta's!


KillaKans!








And I've lined up my Saxon Army models to get an idea of what they're going to look like fully fielded. The model count is pretty ridiculous, but I'm up to the challenge of building and painting all of these.












   
Made in us
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran





Houston, TX

Too many Saxon. Finish your 40k stuff first. Those Ork models look sweet.
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Six Foot Irradiated Hobbit






You're gonna ruin that vinyl grass mat on your table if you work on that table without first covering it with plastic sheet, trust me, I know, I ruined mine

"dave you are the definition of old school..." -Viktor Von Domm My P&M Blog :
It's great how just adding a little iconography, and rivets of course, can make something look distinctly 40K-adamsouza
"Ah yes, the sound of riveting.....Swear word after swear word and the clinking of thrown tools" "Nope. It sucks do it again..."- mxwllmdr
"It puts together more terrain, or else it gets the hose again...-dangledorf2.0
"This is the Imperium, there is no peace, there are only rivets" -Vitruvian XVII
"I think rivets are the perfect solution to almost every problem"- Rawson
 
   
Made in us






Boston-area [Arlington] Massachusetts

Mmmmm. Now I need an Arnold Palmer.

January 11th - TABLE TIME!
Ouze wrote:I decided to don my surgical mask before doing the drilling, since I don't know what this new resin is made of, but I'm sure it's not, you know, vitamins and stuff.
ddogwood wrote:People who feel the need to cheat at Warhammer deserve pity, not anger. I mean, how pathetic does your life have to be to make you feel like you need to cheat at your toy army soldiers game?

DR:70+S--G+M+++B++I++Pw40k87/f/re#-D++A+/sWD042R+++T(Pic)DM+ 
   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

leohart wrote:Too many Saxon. Finish your 40k stuff first. Those Ork models look sweet.


Haha, dude.

Thanks for the compliment regarding the Orks, I hope they play well against your DA.

dsteingass wrote:You're gonna ruin that vinyl grass mat on your table if you work on that table without first covering it with plastic sheet, trust me, I know, I ruined mine


Heh, That is one of the many great tables at Fat Ogre Games & Comics
Fat Ogre just up on Rayford/Sawdust near I-45 in The Woodlands,Tx
1440 Sawdust Rd. Suite E2, Spring, TX 77380-2917 281.292.8444
http://www.fatogre.com/
Pics of the store are up on their facebook and in the Houston Warhammer 40K group as well as on my own facebook
http://www.facebook.com/FatOgreGames
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.415094648506902&type=1

I always lay out a mat or use the lid of the plastic bins when I glue my models or paint. I was simply lining up the troops to see how many and to get an idea of the project ahead of me.

Briancj wrote:Mmmmm. Now I need an Arnold Palmer.


Haha, come on down to Texas and I'll buy you one or maybe even two...





   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

Very little work done on these Wargames Factory models last night. True 28mm scale models arms are tiny and I want to pin them all, but that would take forever. The contact points for these are small, so I've used a pin vise to drill into the shoulder and the arm to create a deeper area for the super glue to connect and form a bond with support.

Here is a pic of the plastic bins from Walmarts bead/craft section. I picked 4 of these up for $4.79 each, modular and deep enough to hold the 28mm model with some room above them.




Here are pics of the Wargames factory models with some Games Workshop LOTR Riders and Warriors of Rohan models as well as the Rohan Command box set models which I'll be using for my Saxon Army General and primary Army Standard Bearer.

The Finecast really caused some issues and even broke apart on the model, yet refused to be easily drilled with a pin vise so I could pin it with a bit of clipped paperclip, ultimately I had to cut a portion of the model out and drill at an angle in the banner.


Yes, my General will be choking someone while on the battlefield.




A mix of LOTR Rohan models and the Wargames Factory Saxon Thegn models, approximately the same size, but definitely different dynamics and builds.


This is primarily the LOTR models, I've trimmed off the base piece and attached them to 20mm x 20mm square bases which according to the Warhammer Ancient Battles rule book is the recommended size for 28mm infantry models. I cut up the Warhammer Fantasy movement trays, on one side they're in 25mm squares and on the flip the flat square is in 20mm squares. To do that, you're going to have to score with a solid hobby knife the groove. I used a box cutter with a metal ruler held in place by C-clamps, then just bend the plastic along a hard edge of a desk and it snaps right off, you'll get about 100 20x20mm bases from doing this.



This is primarily Wargames Factory models fronted by the command model from the Rohan command set. I still need to add shields and weapons to these troops.


Lots of work to do, so many models. Its just going to be crazy to try and get these all completed or even built.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/04/11 14:19:53


   
Made in us






Boston-area [Arlington] Massachusetts

Hmelrose wrote:
Briancj wrote:Mmmmm. Now I need an Arnold Palmer.

Haha, come on down to Texas and I'll buy you one or maybe even two...


I used to live in Austin, and still have many friends there.

January 11th - TABLE TIME!
Ouze wrote:I decided to don my surgical mask before doing the drilling, since I don't know what this new resin is made of, but I'm sure it's not, you know, vitamins and stuff.
ddogwood wrote:People who feel the need to cheat at Warhammer deserve pity, not anger. I mean, how pathetic does your life have to be to make you feel like you need to cheat at your toy army soldiers game?

DR:70+S--G+M+++B++I++Pw40k87/f/re#-D++A+/sWD042R+++T(Pic)DM+ 
   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

Briancj wrote:
Hmelrose wrote:
Briancj wrote:Mmmmm. Now I need an Arnold Palmer.

Haha, come on down to Texas and I'll buy you one or maybe even two...


I used to live in Austin, and still have many friends there.



Funny, I too used to live in Austin, and still have many friends there. Dragon Lair and Great Hall Games as well as a few other local venues were my go to choices for Nerdery in that town.

   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

I'm almost done putting arms on the Saxon Thegns. Thats only 64 models out of 300 though, lol. so 128 arms, with 128 Wpn & Shields
Which will leave 136 models left some of which need heads, 272 arms, 272 wpn & shields, then priming & painting and then basing all 300.
its like building an IG force

Speaking of, this is what my IG table looks like: Mordian Iron Guard, Cadians, Catachans and so many many vehicles and bitz to build.


yep, I keep avoiding painting that, but then I pick up other projects like these Saxons which are almost as bad
or those Red Orks
or the Space Wolves
or all the other armies and commissions
I picked up a Bretonnian battalion, but I don't know when I'll get to those. I see so much usable canvas on them. Thats partly why I like them as well, but its also the look and the fluff. Basically how they're all mental



last model for arms! And I forgot about the command models, lol. but they don't count they're Rohan LOTR models



Now for them to dry. I'm going to box them up and get some sleep. Now that they have arms, they don't fit as well in the bin, lol.

I've got a ton of extra arms and heads, just from the saxon thegn boxes only. When I'm done with all the other boxes I will have a lot more heads and arms, it remains to be seen if i'll have weapons. If I do, then I might just bitz order some torso/bodies and build a few more models.


I'll still need to put weapons and shields on these models and all the other Saxons and Vikings.


   
Made in us
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran





Houston, TX

Hey, at least you got the Red Orks done. Now, you just need to stick to one of the projects at a time.
   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

leohart wrote:Hey, at least you got the Red Orks done. Now, you just need to stick to one of the projects at a time.


Yeah, Now to get paid for the Orks. :p

I love this dang hobby Leo and I love to play games, so having multiple armies for multiple games allows me to pretty much find a game anywhere.

I NEED to convert some Imperial Guardsmen using these bitz for legs http://victorialamb.com/wugs/drookian%20gallery/highlandx15.htm, cadian torso, arms/weapons, and either the Pith Helmets or Balmoral caps listed here http://victorialamb.com/store.html That would be the absolute coolest.

You should check out Col. Gravis: http://colgravis.blogspot.com/p/praetorian-roughriders-for-sale.html He's got some great conversions on his dakkadakka blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/208605.page Perry Miniatures and some others have comparable kits. I've used some of their stuff for my Rough Riders.
   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

Hmelrose wrote:For those that are interested here's a link to a GW paint conversion chart:
http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2320032a_Citadel_Conversion_Chart
www.games-workshop.com












Updated Paint Compatibility Chart!
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

   
Made in gb
Servoarm Flailing Magos





Earlobe deep in doo doo

Everybody suggests you should finish 1 project at a time Balderdash I say lots of projects at once gives you lots of variety and more interest which means you get more work done!

"But me no buts! Our comrades get hurt. Our friends die. Falkenburg is a knight who swore an oath to serve the church and to defend the weak. He'd be the first to tell you to stop puling and start planning. Because what we are doing-at risk to ourselves-is what we have sworn to do. The West relies on us. It is a risk we take with pride. It is an oath we honour. Even when some soft southern burgher mutters about us, we know the reason he sleeps soft and comfortable, why his wife is able to complain about the price of cabbages as her most serious problem and why his children dare to throw dung and yell "Knot" when we pass. It's because we are what we are. For all our faults we stand for law and light.
Von Gherens This Rough Magic Lackey, Flint & Freer
Mekagorkalicious -Monkeytroll 
   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

Llamahead wrote:Everybody suggests you should finish 1 project at a time Balderdash I say lots of projects at once gives you lots of variety and more interest which means you get more work done!


I knew I liked you Llamahead! I just didn't know why! Multi-projects are the way to go!

My buddy Threedguru is needing to sell his Black Templars something fierce:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/439212.page#4079068

   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx



I'm building a Bretonnian Army to 3,000 pts and only have the Batallion box set and two blisters of Bretonnian Spearmen I bought new back in 1996 ( I found them in my parents garage when I went to look for some of my old stuff. ).
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-23048_Bretonian.html

The box includes bits for:
1 Pegasus Knight,
20 Men-at-arms (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician),
16 Bowmen (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician)
8 Knights of the Realm (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician).

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1050119&rootCatGameStyle=
So my question is, Where do I go from here?



Been clipping sprues all night and watching youtube videos as well as continuing to work on the Saxons/Vikings. I used to have a ton of Bretonnians from fifth edition and had given them all away. Still working to get all my old models back. Lots of conversations have been had regarding this.

Read a nice blog on some Saxons here: http://edmontonwargamer.blogspot.com/p/saxons.html

Some nice conversions here:
http://psychosispc-themadhouseworkshop.blogspot.com/2011/09/another-batch-of-space-wolf-scout.html

Very similar to my Fenris IG concept:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-21946_Fenris%20Ig%20Concept.html

Still waiting on payment for the Red Ork Painting commission, so here is some pictures of that:





















This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2012/04/21 12:26:13


   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

This box set is the fifth edition release of the Fantasy Games and includes both Bretonnian and Lizardmen starting armies. The models are all present and still on the sprues except for a couple which have come loose, but are still in the box. All the markers and dice are also in the box. The box is complete! Also included, but not pictured are the army list books for the Lizardmen and Bretonnians. All of these are from 1996! I can't believe these were still lying hidden in my parents garage!


I thought about fielding the Saxons with the Brets and make up some fluff that my lord is from Norsca and settled in exchange for land and titles like the Normans

but I bought the Bret Battalion box, so I have those man-at-arms with tower shields. They just don't look the same, though I'll work on fielding them together.

I thought about Kitbashing Mantic Undead with GW Brets and making an undead Bret army.

I'm at the point where I have to make a serious decision for this bret build. Mantic undead + GW bret or GW bret + Wargames Saxons or straight GW Bret.

http://www.manticgames.com/Shop-Home/Kings-of-War/Undead/Core-Units-Troops/Product/Undead-Skeleton-Troop-10-Figures.html

Giant Snails
http://www.thewarstore.com/product67772.html

Some players suggested I could make a double bretonnian & Vampire Count army as the Army of Mousillon

For those of you who are up on fluff: Mousillon is a fallen section of brettonnia. Later removed from the kingdom and deemed a cursed land. So I was thinking about doing these up to represent the "fallen". But I was wondering what to include in such an army? Naturally Blood knights and black knights but aside from that, what do you think would be a good representation in such an army?

The Unholy Knights of Mousillon. They are mentioned in the VC army book in the fluff about the Cursed Sheild of Mousillon, yet i haven't seen more than this. So it is of my opinion that these knights are the polar opposites of the Grail Knights. Withholding all pluses of the ideal of Laudin, yet with a more sinister twist. Unless anyone has any information to the contrary.

Bretonnian vampires. Here's how I'd work the mix:

Men-at-arms / Graveguard : Bret bodies, with skeleton heads or cut off their noses and paint them to look like zombies. Paint hands as though they are wearing gloves
Pegasus Knights / Vampires on Winged Nightmares: basic Pegasus Knight kits, but with appropriate bits and paint to suggest a vampire. Also, use these more frequently as FelBats
Knights Errant / Black Knights : Knight box with skeleton heads
Knights of the Realm / Blood Knights : Knight box with full helms, paint and bits to suggest elite vampires
Relique / Wraiths: Banshee on a 40mm scenic base serves as Relique, with Wraiths as Battle Pilgrims (the banshee can come off the 40mm, to go to an appropriate VC base)
Heroes : any mix of character models from either range

There are some things which don't translate between armies, but playing primarily as a Undead Bretonnian with the possibility of Vampires as a side army. Everything not listed above, is used "as-is" within the appropriate army. The only change to the Breton models is the use of skeletal heads and some arms instead of the living heads, and the VC models get some Bret bits in turn.

I've already put the halberd arms on most of the man at arms. The bowmen just need heads. if I was going to kitbash the mantic skellies, then I should have given the bret models the skull heads and/or arms and the mantic skellies the bret heads

Then I could steal some fluff and ideas from:
http://www.librarium-online.com/forums/fb-army-fluff/167332-darklord-duke-mousillon-vc.html
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/364386.page

Its still a thought process and one that needs to be decided fairly soon. Like tonight or tomorrow, or maybe even monday as it prevents me from building anything currently.





Automatically Appended Next Post:
After staring at these, I think I'll just make them regular Bret models.

I don't have the mantic undead models in front of me, I have bret models. I figure I could get the mantic undead later and build/paint then put them into units of brets to make the army

I'm thinking a red/yellow color scheme for this army. Red yellow would look nice on brets

Most of the men at arms will be brown, due to their leather armor, with some red/yellow accents

Headless Bretonnian Archers


Man at Arms (half)



Man at Arms ( the other half)



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Worked on the Bretonnians a bit more last night:

First Pegasus Knight



Men-at-arms assembled minus the tower shield, so that when I prime & pain I can get to the areas behind the tall shield. I'll attach the shield after.


Peasant Archers, just add head, attach to base and they're ready to go!


On all the heads I drilled with a pin vise into the body and into the base of the head. I was going to pin them together, but decided that when the superglue fills the hole that I made, it would be good enough to hold the models together with a strong bond.

I've been directed to check out: http://www.roundtable-bretonnia.org/ It seems like a great resource for Bretonnia.

I've received lots of great input from a San Antonio, Texas base Wargaming group, 'The Gaming Garage' https://www.facebook.com/groups/175757472448931/

As well as my more local and vocal Wargaming group here in Houston, Texas: "Warhammer40K of Houston" https://www.facebook.com/groups/295114300504938/ and the Warmachine / Hordes Houston, Tx Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/128014557313818/

Lots of good people on all the groups willing to talk, discuss, organize games and tournaments as well as hobby days. Good times.


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I Think I've got on hand or en route:
2x Bretonnian Battalion (The box includes bits for:
1 Pegasus Knight, 20 Men-at-arms (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician), 16 Bowmen (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician) and 8 Knights of the Realm (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician)
1x men-at-arms box
1x Bretonnian Bowmen
1x 5th edition starter box (with Bretonnians and Lizardmen)
4x Bretonnian Spearmen (will be put in to the men-at-arms unit)
2x Reaper miniature female sorcerer models (to act as damsels)
And,3 more Pegasus Knights.

This message was edited 5 times. Last update was at 2012/04/22 13:24:01


   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

Attempting to use some colored primer techniques to speed the process along with painting the Bretonnian Army and get an idea if this will help speed up later painting projects.

Normally I assemble my models completely and then prime/paint them, but with Bretonnians and their Heraldry/color patterns being rather diverse and with wanting to do a red / yellow army, I decided not to glue the horses together just yet. I used a piece of cardboard, some masking tape and lined up each half of the horses. I taped one of the halves to half of the board and the other half to the other half of the board. I labeled and numbered each piece, then wrote the color codes on the board.


To further speed up the process, I taped/built a cardboard wall right down the middle of the cardboard I used.


I used the Army Painter Demonic Yellow on the left half of the board.


As well on the men at arms shield and the banners:


I used the Army Painter Bright Red on the right half of the board.


Here is a shot of both halves.


And hours later, the horses have been removed and pushed (but not glued) together.



The Men at arms and Bowmen were lined up on another piece of cardboard and masking tape was used to keep the models from falling over when being primed or moved after being primed.


The models were lined up and I'm going to try out Army Painter Leather Brown colored primer to give these guys a brown leather armor look.

After Priming:

After several hours of drying:



And now more Men At Arms being built:


   
Made in us
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran





Houston, TX

You sir, are such a cheater. But this is so good that I have to copy this awesome trick.

Painting heraldry of my Brets while they are assembled = pain. :(

More Brets.
   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx


Work progressing on the Men at Arms shields, I used masking tape again to hold them in place while I primed them yellow along with a couple of banners:


I want half the shield to be red and half to be yellow, similar to what the Knights mounts will look like, so using painters tape and going by the rivet on the band surrounding the edge of the shield I tried to half it, then secured the shield back to the cardboard.


Army Painter Bright Red Paint was used to spray prime the exposed half of the shield.


Rotated the banners and some of the mounts from earlier required some additional Army Painter Demonic Yellow. I'm a little worried about the man at arms arm, which due this has been primed Yellow. I'm thinking I could cover the banner portion of the bit and use the leather brown on the lower half of the bit and bring it in line with the rest of the models paint scheme.



The next set of Men At Arms primed with Army Painter Leather Brown



Progress is continuing and I'm still on the lookout for more Bretonnian models, the horse heads didn't come out so well in the flipside priming, so I think I'm going to have to do them either red or yellow, but not half and half.





   
Made in us
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran





Houston, TX

Cheating. More cheating. Is this what I can expect of you Hmelrose?

You are undermining all my hours and hours of applying dual patterns on the horses by hand. I am so mad right now for my own stupidity.
   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

leohart wrote:You sir, are such a cheater. But this is so good that I have to copy this awesome trick.
Painting heraldry of my Brets while they are assembled = pain. :(
More Brets.
Cheating. More cheating. Is this what I can expect of you Hmelrose?
You are undermining all my hours and hours of applying dual patterns on the horses by hand. I am so mad right now for my own stupidity.


Haha, You're just upset that I thought of it first. Hopefully this works out well.

I'm debating going over the reds and yellows with some red, but I think they're going to work as is. Though, I'm still wondering how to do the shield device on the side of the horse. Do I leave it solid yellow and solid red? Or should I try to make it half yellow / half red with some painters tape and spray primer these colors?

Going to check on the models!

   
Made in gb
Lord of Carrion






Dusseldorf

Diverse blog! I really like the dual priming idea, very quick and effective.



Mantic Undead Showcase:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/560734.page 
   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

Da Boss wrote:Diverse blog! I really like the dual priming idea, very quick and effective.


Thank you Da Boss! I'm trying to keep everything in one place rather than do multiple project & modeling blogs. I'm liking the easy of the dual color primering, but I'm not sure how effective it will be in the long run. I've got a lot of knights to build/paint. What games and armies do you play?

I'm assembling these bretonnian knights and wondering what the knight helms and arms would look like on say a white scars style bike army, but wouldnt they be more Templarish? So I'm thinking Black Templars + Bretonnians? I could see the icons working especially the shields.

What are your thoughts on that?

Maybe at a later date, a future project (I'll most likely forget about.)

Looks like someone has already worked on this theme a bit:
http://blog.spikeybits.com/2012/03/god-wills-it-crusading-black-templar_08.html

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/04/24 06:12:09


   
Made in us
Doc Brown





Spring, Tx

The results of the painters tape double primer test are in:

I previously primed these shields with Army Painter Demonic Yellow over the front half. Then I covered half of the shield with painters tape, alternating sides so they'd be similar to the Bretonnian mounts I previously primed. Then I primed them with Army Painter Bright Red:


The painters tape prevented the red from bleeding into the yellow and created a crisp, clean line dividing the two colors.



And a close up shot of the shields:


The back half of the shields are still un-primed, so I wanted them to look wooden/leather similar in color to the men at arms models I primed with the Army Painter Leather brown, so I lined up the shields face down on the same painters tape, pressing the edges down so that the tape sealed it tightly (hoping it would protect the front colors on the shield),


Lined them up at an angle in a cardboard box to prevent the spray from spreading out to other objects in my garage.


Then primed the back of the shields with Leather Brown



Waited a few hours and then peeled them off, Success!


I needed the banners arms and pole to match the man at arms, so out comes the painters tape and primers again, lol.





And here is where we're at:










   
 
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