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Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

Lol, gotta love trial and error! I'll Second Aerethan's comment, I always try to pour a thin layer over the entire object I am making a mould of then back fill later as needed.

Another way of gauging the amount of rubber needed is to make the casting box with the master inside it then fill it with water. Simply pour the water into a measuring cup ( or your actual mixing cup) and you will know roughly how much rubber you will need to mix.

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in tr
Focused Fire Warrior




San Antonio, TX

Yes, definitely trial and error. So, woke up this morning and the mold was set!!!!!!!!!!!!

Start to take it apart and then realize my next few errors lol:

1. I didn't have the clay covering the whole bottom so some rubber came back in on itself...
2. I am thinking I am using the wrong clay, or is that how it is for everyone? (See photos below for what i'm talking bout)


On a positive note, it's amazing/awesome the level of detail. Peel/scooping off clay and seeing the detail was like opening a treasure chest. Definitely will keep doing this just for the fun factor alone. Any thoghts on the proper clay or what to use as the bottom of the mold when making a two parter?




   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

You should be using Plasticine clay. It's non drying, but shouldn't stick like that.

You definitely need to do several smaller molds. Trying to cast in that thing without bubbles would be massive luck.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in ca
Fresh-Faced New User




Actually, plasticine clay usually contains suphur. Sulphur inhibits most molding compounds.

There is "plasticine-like" modelling clay that is sulphur free.

Bottom line: don't use Plasticine.

Here is a wiki entry that gives some brand name sulphur free clays.

http://fx.wikia.com/wiki/Clay

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/12 20:10:51


 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

Cool, thnks for the tip Nitrous

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in ca
Fresh-Faced New User




NP
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Nitrous wrote:
Actually, plasticine clay usually contains suphur. Sulphur inhibits most molding compounds.

There is "plasticine-like" modelling clay that is sulphur free.

Bottom line: don't use Plasticine.

Here is a wiki entry that gives some brand name sulphur free clays.

http://fx.wikia.com/wiki/Clay


This is correct and is a detail I had forgotten(been forever since I've made a mold or had to buy clay).

Thank you for the reminder!

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







I have, however, had no problems with using Newplast Plasticine with a platinum-catalysed RTV silicone.

So that plasticine appears sulphur-free.

Mastodon: @DrH@warhammer.social
The army- ~2295 points (built).

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Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




I never had good results with Plasticine. You need a polymer clay for the best results. Well its always worked for me.

''Trial & Error'' 
   
Made in us
Dark Angels Neophyte Undergoing Surgeries







I was just wondering if full-sized models work okay or if there is a problem with bubble forming and the like. I hate buying from GW and try to get as much stuff as I can from Ebay.

3500 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

 Cuchulain wrote:
I was just wondering if full-sized models work okay or if there is a problem with bubble forming and the like. I hate buying from GW and try to get as much stuff as I can from Ebay.


1. We are not here to give information on recasting GW models.

2. Casting any full model depends entirely only the sculpt and undercuts. Some models are perfectly fine to cast as single pieces due to static poses and fairly simple details, others will require multiple parts to be broken down and cast separately.

3. The bigger the item to be cast, the more chance of bubbles there will be. Pressure casting is the best way to avoid this.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

The same advice I have given a lot on this thread applies here as well....

..I most cases it is cheaper to buy bits or whole kits than casting your own. Casting is best for reproducing your own original sculpts.

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
 
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