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Made in cz
Frothing Warhound of Chaos





A friend recently revealed his dysfunction. He doesn't know how to pin. So I made a video for him, and did a write up for those who aren't keen on videos.

Video first:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qu-ZkM5kk3g

Pinning is useful far more than you think when you're building your army. I use it for difficult plastic models, and pretty much every metal or resin model I own. There's been times when I know I don't need to pin a model, but I do, because if that model ever drops off the table you're going to wish it was pinned.

My rule is, if you're unsure- pin it.

Step 1:The very very beginning
Go buy a pin vice drill that looks comfortable to hold. Its more important to get good drill bits than a good drill. Bits that have a thick stem are much easier to pin with, and won't slip out of the vice's grip.

Step 2:The actual beginning
Before you pin your model you need to do a dry run. Get all the parts of the model and put it together with small bits of bluetack. Make sure it fits together properly and that you can see any areas where the model might not fit together correctly, or there are mistakes in the mould line. Straighten these out as much as you can, until your dry run is built the way you want your final product.

Look at how the model joins together and try to find areas on the model where you could drill a hole without weakening that part of the structure. There are three things to keep in mind when looking for a place to drill:
1 depth of hole(a deeper hole allows a longer wire, which makes it less likely the wire will fall out of place.)

2 sturdyness of drilled area(if you drill an area that is very thin, it stands to reason you will have a weaker join. Drilling in very thin areas can actually damage the model.)

3 angle of hole. (Two connected drill holes that make a more or less straight line give a sturdier pinning than two holes at an awkward angle to each other.)

For multipart models you should plan out where each driled hole will go, so that you don't have overlapping holes from different pieces going into the main body of a mini at the same place.

Step 3:The beginning of the pininning
Once you know what angle you'll drill at, hold the drill steady at that angle, resting against your palm. Twist it with your fingers, while keeping it steady. I recommend you practice this on a spare piece of sprue first, and if you are still having trouble mark the area you want to drill with a scalpel. Honestly, look at the video if you want to know how to turn a drill.

Twist until you have a hole of the desired depth. Take out the drill regularly and check how far in it has gone so that you know when you should stop. You DO NOT want to come out the other side of the model.

Step 4: Pinning the other side
It can be hard to make sure you are going to drill the second hole in the mirrored spot. I suggest you put some bluetack firmly in place on the part of the model you haven't drilled yet. Then press the model together. Take them apart carefully, without twisting or sliding. There should be a blue nubbin from the hole. Drill into this nubbin to get the right spot.

Step 5:Tips and warnings
If you are pinning a big model, pick multiple pin locations for pieces that have a large shared surface area. For instance a tank turret would need two or three pins.

If you are pinning something small like a weapon shaft, make sure you use a small drill bit like .8mm or smaller. Make sure you pin very straight. In addition, try to get the drill hole to go as far as a hand or other wider area along the shaft. This area is sturdier, and is more able to cope with the end of the hole being there. The end of the hole is the weakest part of the drilled hole, and when it comes to pinning shafts and other thin areas the end of the hole is where it is most likely to break, if not done correctly. This can ruin the model, as you will have metal stuck in the piece, with no way of getting it out and re-pinning it.

I hope this was helpful. If people have any other suggestions I should add in please let me know.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/08/06 10:06:15


Check out my youtube channel for Tutorials, Battle reports and other stuff in both 6mm and 28mm

www.youtube.com/user/ManticMoments 
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block





Yakima, WA

Hey bertnernie! Thank you for the post. The tutorial was well put together.

I have been playing 40k for almost 2 years now. I am definitely a painter and modeler more than I am a gamer. My question for you is why exactly you feel that pinning the models like that is important? And do you do that for all of your models?

I read the tutorial as well as watched the video and I noted in your video your statement that eventually the models simply wont hold together with glue alone. I haven't run into this problem.

Granted I have had a few models that have needed to have their legs or arms glued back on, but I blame this on the fact that I painted it prior to glueing it. I like to use plastic glue for my models and I think that because it wasn't plastic on plastic, I lost some of the adhesion. As for resin models, I use super glue, which isn't great in my opinion. But I actually haven't had any problems with loosing bits from resin models using super glue.

Just looking for some elaboration. How long do you have your models before they start falling apart?

Thanks my friend!
   
Made in cz
Frothing Warhound of Chaos





Hi Lopis,
I added a general explanation as to why I think Pinning is so important in the youtube comments. It's fairly long so you'll have to click 'see more'

As to your situation in particular.

Well, I may be overemphasizing the importance of pinning, because of how important it has been for me. I've been wargaming for about 18 years and have some fairly old models. My first experience with a big model was a metal Lictor: http://kofler.dot.at/40k/units/Tyranid_Lictor_1.gif

I loved this model and spent the best part of two weeks just painting it all day while my best friend painted almost a full Eldar army. Once it was finished I had to bring it home, and a bit fell off and I had to re-glue it. Then when I started bringing it to the local club some ejit sat on it, so I had to rebuild it. Then the same guy knocked it off the table and stepped on it because he was horseplaying around the table. So I rebuilt it. After a while it was a lost cause and had to be scrapped for parts the damage was so bad.

That's an extreme case, but I learned my lesson- take care of your minis. Since then I was much more careful of my minis, and yet they still broke. I often travel a couple of hours away for tournaments and inevitably at least one model would have damage. It was a metal model almost every time. The more models I pinned, the less I had this problem. Any bumping around from being stuck in a carry case, to falling over on the table, even to just being an older model used with care can degrade the bonds. It might never happen, but if it does you may have to repaint your model. And that is very frustrating.

If you're not gaming much, it doesn't happen as much. However if it does happen you will be far more frustrated when your complex models do break, as they will be incredibly hard to repaint. I often mix my paint, and if I didn't write down the exact ratio (or if the colour is no longer made) I can never get that model back looking how it should.

I personally would only use plastic glue for plastic on plastic. The plastic glue is essentially melting the plastic. This is great for two pieces of plastic because they melt into each other, almost creating one single solid piece(although you can get bubbles in it from either too much or too little plastic glue). However when you glue plastic to metal the metal doesn't melt, so the only thing holding them together when they dry is the fact that the plastic is really very flush against the metal. Think of it like having a piece of a jigsaw puzzle and then custom making another piece so it will fit perfectly with the first piece. You haven't actually 'glued' very much them in the conventional sense. You have just made them fit together really well, with a very weak glue bond(if any).

I didn't like super glue at first, because it always leaves a white stain, and can ruin paint if it gets on it. However I really like using Super glue now, because it will glue anything (metal, plastic or resin) to a piece of any other kind. Pinning is for any large or fiddley model.

Basically if they are moving around, or complex in any way then I really do think that pinning is important.

Sorry, I rambled. If anything is unclear let me know.

TL: DR:
Anything more than your basic metal Space Marine commander will probably need pinning, especially if you move them around or put them on a gaming table regularly.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/08/17 20:32:25


Check out my youtube channel for Tutorials, Battle reports and other stuff in both 6mm and 28mm

www.youtube.com/user/ManticMoments 
   
Made in us
Hellacious Havoc






awesome tutorial maybe I will give this a go

The wolves go for the throat.
We go for the eyes.
Then the tongue.
Then the hands.
Then the feet
Then we skin the crippled remains. 
   
Made in cz
Frothing Warhound of Chaos





Thanks,
You should definitely give pinning a shot if you haven't before.

Let me know if you have any problems.

Check out my youtube channel for Tutorials, Battle reports and other stuff in both 6mm and 28mm

www.youtube.com/user/ManticMoments 
   
Made in gb
Brigadier General





The new Sick Man of Europe

What a highly informative guide for anyone not skilled in this technique essential for assembling some the best miniatures out there.

DC:90+S+G++MB++I--Pww211+D++A++/fWD390R++T(F)DM+
 
   
Made in gb
Possessed Khorne Marine Covered in Spikes






Great detain on the video, I would definitely recommend getting a little drill to pin models.
My Dark Eldar Haemonculus broke and I would never been able to fit it without pinning (picture is not my model)
Spoiler:

Also you can use the drill to drill out gun barrels and stuff which looks cool

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/12 22:31:58


Did you know? Every sunday from 12 to 5 pm you can get a carvery for £6.95 at the pudding and pye.

 
   
Made in gb
40kenthus




Manchester UK

I had a go at drilling last week.

I bought a cheaper pin vice, and the drill bits just kept slipping up in to the drill shaft. Didn't even mark the model!

Most annoying.


Member of the "Awesome Wargaming Dudes"

 
   
Made in sk
Regular Dakkanaut





Nice tutorial. This is fairly big mini, but I have problem when gluing minis from Dark Sword and etc. that are too small for pining and they tend to break easily

"Faith is the soul of any army; be it vested in primitive religion or enlightened truth. It makes even the least soldier mighty, the craven is remade worthy and through its balm any hardship may be endured. Faith ennobles all of the worlds the soldier undertakes be they so base or vile, and imports to them the golden spark of transcendent purpose."
— Lorgar Aurelian, Primarch of the Word Bearers 
   
Made in us
Slippery Ultramarine Scout Biker






Great tips on pinning, I've recently come in to an accident with my storm raven's wing. Do you think the wing is too thin to pin?

3.5k
800 
   
Made in fi
Pile of Necron Spare Parts



Finland

Hi there!

Thanks for the nice tutorial. I recently got into pinning, as I was building the Lizardmen Stegadon, and had a hard time getting the Skinks that hold the giant blowpipes to stay there. I knocked one over so many times, that it has more metal inside it than Wolverine... Anyway, it was great practice, as I'm now getting into Infinity and their thin all-metal-always miniatures.

I have a question, though. What do you think about using rotary tools for this kind of thing? The reason I'm asking is that I bought the centipede-like Tomb Stalker model for Necrons, and I was thinking of drilling a hole through all the body segments (except the head and the tail pieces), and taking a metal wire through them. This, I imagine, would help me with the positioning of the thing, while also making it stronger.
   
Made in cz
Frothing Warhound of Chaos





Hi guys. I'm really sorry I took so long replying. I didn't see these. I thought I had notifications set up for when someone had a questions, but apparently I didn't...

The problem with very thin stuff like a very small arm, or a wing or a blowpipe, is that they can't always be pinned. I tried out my pinning method on some really thin stuff for making the tutorial, but I didn't put it in the video.

Basically, if you can pin it with the thinest drill bit you have, and still have some thin wire to put in it might work. The problem is that the thin wire has to be very straight. When you are pinning something so small you can't just insert a tiny wire that will actually give no support. You are better off with a very thin brass rod, or something else that will remain very straight and will not be bent, even if the outer part of the model is bent by misuse.

After that you need to know that you can drill in to the model in a straight line that can go half a centimeter in length into the model(or more). This needs to work on both sides. If you go shorter than this there is a chance that wear and tear on the model will cause the wire/rod to pop out easily. This is a big problem because you will probably never be able to remove that wire/rod if it was glued correctly, and you might not ever be able to fix the breakage.

I highly recommend you practice fine detail pinning like this on a model you have no more use for. Pin a piece using this method, and after a day or two bend it gently. Then try again a few hours later, and again a few hours later. if it doesn't bend much, or it just stays in place, then you've done it right.

Out of all the questions I think it might help you guys if I rate your questions in order of difficulty to give you an idea of how hard similar pieces have been for me.

1)Dark Sword Minis. Most difficult. Practice at least twice, even if the first one is successful. For beloved pieces that are very thin just don't pin them until you are very confident. Sometimes it is better to not pin and just attach it with glue. Be very sparing with said glue, and clean it every time it falls off.

2) Dark Eldar Haemonculus. Quite difficult. First, the breakage is on two pieces that curve, so you need to find a straight line through it that will still be at least 1/2cm on either side. Next, it is metal so you need to be fairly accurate in your drilling. However it is thick, so these problems are definitely surpassable.

3) Blow pipe skinks. Moderate difficulty. They are plastic, and thus easier to position the drill correctly. They are very straight pieces. They only problem here is how thin they are.

4) Storm raven wing. Low difficulty, assuming the break was clean. The piece I used in my tutorial had parts that are only a bit thicker than a Storm Raven wing. You will need two or three points of pinning on it, depending on where the break is on the wing. If you look at buildings that are being ripped apart you will often see steel rods sticking out at intervals. The storm raven wing should have these rods at intervals along it.
If the break has jagged edges then it is more difficult.
Despite it being so long, if you post a picture I'll get back to you with what I would do, and help out any way I can.


I might make an advanced tutorial in the future. My camera charger was stolen a month or so ago, so it'll have to wait a bit until I can find a replacement.


EDIT: @monders. This was a huge problem I had with my first drill. You need to know if the drill itself or the drill bits are the problem. Get your biggest drill bit. If it fits snugly and doesn't fall out then the problem is your drill bits. If it slips at all then the problem is your drill.

You can buy drill bits with thicker stems, (like shown in the video) in most good hobby shops. I think I got these ones in hobby craft. If it is the drill then you need a whole new drill. I don't know enough about the range of pin vice drills available to recommend a particular brand.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/01/14 10:11:30


Check out my youtube channel for Tutorials, Battle reports and other stuff in both 6mm and 28mm

www.youtube.com/user/ManticMoments 
   
Made in gb
40kenthus




Manchester UK

Thanks Bertnerie, but I've since successfully pinned two models (old metal carnosaur arms and an Infinity model).

I bought some 'proper' drill bits and they do the job just fine.

I find I struggle getting more than a mm or two into the model though. After that it takes more power and I get a bad hand cramp. Maybe I need a bigger drill!


Member of the "Awesome Wargaming Dudes"

 
   
Made in cz
Frothing Warhound of Chaos





Maybe. I've not seen small ones before.

The one I have is not super comfortable, but I've never gotten cramp from it. When the end of the drill rests in my hand, I can fully extend my fingers when they hold the drill. I don't have to cramp them up to turn the end of the drill.

I think I need to mock up a picture of this...

Check out my youtube channel for Tutorials, Battle reports and other stuff in both 6mm and 28mm

www.youtube.com/user/ManticMoments 
   
Made in us
Norn Queen






I have a question. What about pinning for transportation? In particular I have a couple of the forge world flying hive tyrants. The wings are currently unattached and I am currently thinking pinning is the way to go to make the wings able to be attached/detached.

Any tips/tricks/rules/warnings for pinning for transportation?

Is there another method that would work better?


These are my opinions. This is how I feel. Others may feel differently. This needs to be stated for some reason.
 
   
 
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