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Made in au
Dipping With Wood Stain






Brisbane, Australia

Greetings all! This is a step by step guide on how I make my own customised weapons from plasticard. Sometimes you just want a specific style of sword, but finding and/or acquiring the right bits can be nigh-on impossible. So if you have a few hours spare, the solution is to make your own!



Tools:

Plasticard - 0.06" thickness and 0.015" thickness. I find the Gale Force Nine plasticard variety pack a fantastic way to get a bunch of different thicknesses of plasticard all together.
Stanley Knife or other craft knife
Plastic Cutters
Tweezers - not necessary, but still useful.
Sandpaper - one rough and one smooth grade, though the smooth isn't entirely necessary, just nice for really polishing off the weapon.
A modelling saw is also useful, but again not entirely necessary.
Super glue or plastic glue.
Some weapons for reference! Especially useful to help keep your weapons to a proper scale. Reference pictures for the weapon you're planning to make are also helpful!



First off, design and sketch your desired blade onto the thick plasticard. For this weapon, I'm going for a khopesh-style blade for a pre-Heresy Thousand Son assault marine, so I used an assault marine chainsword from Forgeworld for size reference. It's fine to make the sketch slightly larger than what you want the weapon to end up, since it's easier to trim things down if they're too large, but much harder to add stuff if it ends up too small.



Don't try to accurately cut out the weapon immediately from the plasticard, it's more difficult than it really needs to be. Just start off by getting the rough shape first, then begin trimming away the excess from the sides bit by bit.

This whole thing is a messy process, by the way. Be prepared to have plasticard dust and bits EVERYWHERE.



This pic shows some of the ways I shape the plasticard - trimming it away strip by strip, almost like peeling an apple. Or for larger chunks, cutting in slices, then trimming those off. Plasticard's much easier to deal with if you just cut off thin layers, instead of trying to carve out large chunks.

The drawing will most likely rub off the plasticard while you're working, so you'll have to re-draw it on every now and then to remind yourself where everything goes. Or you can just keep a copy of your design on a piece of paper or something nearby, that works too.



To get into the inner curve of the blade, I used a modelling saw to cut in the grooves and make it easier to carve out the inner chunks a bit at a time.



This is the sword once it's been mostly trimmed down to shape. You can see some of the rougher areas where I haven't been able to get a clean edge with just the knife alone, mostly on the left side of the blade's neck.



This is where the sandpaper comes in, to smooth out all those rough areas and refine the overall shape. Cut out a small piece of it, then fold or roll it into the desired shape to get into those awkward areas.



Here's the sword once the overall shape of the blade has been finished! I left the hilt for now though, since I didn't want to end up breaking it while working on the blade. It also gave me something to hold on to.



Now comes shaping the blade properly. Use the knife to carefully begin peeling away the corners of the plasticard to shape one side of the blade's edge. Don't try to take off a lot at once - if you accidentally take off too much, it's very difficult to fix it. And remember you need to do this again on the other side as well, so again, don't take off too much!



You can also use the knife to scrape down the plasticard - it doesn't take off as much as cutting, so it's easier to control. Scraping also helps smooth out the rougher places.



This is the sword with one side of the blade done. Just repeat the process on the other side. Once you've used the knife to shape the blade, use the sandpaper to refine the shape and smooth out any rough areas.



Now that the blade itself is done, time for the hilt! I roughed out the hilt's shape, then cut out a piece of the 0.015" thick plasticard to stick on and shaped the edge the same way I did with the blade. This can be very fiddly! Don't worry about getting a perfect fit though - it's better for it to be slightly larger than you need, so you can trim off the excess later.



The sword with one side of the hilt glued on, and the sketch of the piece for the other side before I cut it out.



Both hilt pieces glued on, but still rough! Once the glue's dry though, you can use your knife and sandpaper to trim off the excess and shape the hilt the same way you did the blade.



I kind of forgot to take some more progress pics while working on the hilt and guard - mostly because I hadn't entirely decided what I was doing, and was making up the details of the guard design as I went along, admittedly. I just used my knife to scrape off the corners of the guard, round it out, and shape the pommel, then used the sandpaper to smooth everything off.



So here's the finished weapon along with the hand to hold it!



And here's the (temporarily blu-tack'd together) assault marine with his fancy new stabby thing!



I hope you all found this guide useful! Keep an eye on my P&M blog (linked in sig) to see other weapons I've made, and the progress of the assault marine once I actually start putting him together properly!

   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran





Nice guide
i'll have to try this.
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




That's some good whittling. You left out the part where you make a mold of the sword so you can easily make more, though
   
Made in au
Dipping With Wood Stain






Brisbane, Australia

@Skullhammer: Thank you! I'd love to see what you come up with!

@Munga: Hah, very true! I'll have to see what I can do with the bit of Instant Mold I have atm. I've never really tried proper casting before though!

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Skits, I have made plenty a sword copy out of instant mold and green stuff. Because they are so slim, you need to let the green stuff cure overnight before you try to pry them out. They'll be a bit rubbery, but after some paint you can't tell the difference. I have actually copied Hellblades to great effect. It all started when I dropped one and it went to never never land as so many model parts do when they hit the floor. I copied one arm and all to replace the missing one, then cut away the arm bits and started putting them on my champions and such, lol.
   
Made in au
Dipping With Wood Stain






Brisbane, Australia

Munga, thanks for the advice! I've done a little bit of stuff with instant mold and greenstuff before, mostly heads and torso pieces. I tried a Grey Knight glaive once just to experiment, but yeah, it was pretty rubbery and I wasn't sure how well it'd stand up to general handling. I suppose at least if it's rubbery it's less likely to snap off at some point!

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Yeah. I think we've all had broken power swords. Your tutorial shows a great way to turn that into a boon.
   
Made in ca
Phanobi






Canada,Prince Edward Island

Very nice tutorial! I have made my first ever plasticard purchase because of this.

Any chance of a tutorial for your TSons helmets as well? Making straight bits of green stuff has always evaded me...

   
Made in au
Dipping With Wood Stain






Brisbane, Australia

Join us, join us~~!

And sure, I can do a tutorial next time I make a helmet, no worries!

   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut






Toronto

Until I saw the hand, I thought this was for making a sword for ourselves.

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Made in au
Dipping With Wood Stain






Brisbane, Australia

Hahaha well I'm sure the techniques could probably work on a larger scale, too! You'd just need a much bigger piece of plasticard and a larger knife, I guess.

   
Made in us
Been Around the Block




Let me begin by apologizing if I sound stupid, but I've never worked with plasticard before, how's the strength of the card compared to a plastic sword? Do you have to worry about the card snapping/bending at the hilt or thinner pieces on the sword?

Thanks and the sword looks great.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut






Cheltenham, UK

Excellent tutorial. Thanks for sharing!

   
Made in kh
Been Around the Block






Thanks for the tutorial - helped me figure out how to scratch-build the blade for my power sword!

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Made in us
Prescient Cryptek of Eternity





East Coast, USA

chaddwick2005 wrote:
Let me begin by apologizing if I sound stupid, but I've never worked with plasticard before, how's the strength of the card compared to a plastic sword? Do you have to worry about the card snapping/bending at the hilt or thinner pieces on the sword?

Thanks and the sword looks great.


It's nice and strong.

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Completed Trades With: ultraatma 
   
Made in ca
Phanobi






Canada,Prince Edward Island

I had a very successful first attempt at making this sword. While it isn't as perfect as yours I am still pretty pleased with the ease at which I made it. I found that plastic clippers helped to start off making the rough shape of the sword, very handy for snipping off bits without slicing your finger open.. Just waiting on the Thousand Son tutorial now!

   
Made in au
Dipping With Wood Stain






Brisbane, Australia

Thank you everyone for the comments!

@chaddwick2005: It's pretty strong, especially if you're using the thicker stuff! You've still got to be pretty careful with thinner areas though, yeah - that's why I didn't start carving out the hilt until I'd finished with the blade, because I didn't want to be putting too much pressure on thinner areas while I was working on it. As long as you're not too rough with it though, it's usually fine!

@40k Pirate: Awesome, I'm glad this helped you out!

@Commander Cain: Oh sweet, that's good to hear! Got any pics of it? And yeah, the plastic cutters definitely help, heh. I'll get around to that Thousand Son head tutorial at some point soon, I promise! Life's just been a bit hectic lately, whoops.


   
 
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