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Hey dakka,

I'm new to this fantastic hobbie and I've always wanted to get into it as a teen but never had the money or patience to actually make it happen. I've allways enjoyed building and painting models when I was younger, but once they were built they just sat on my shelve collecting dust. This is the amazing part of warhammer that intrigues me so much. Not only do I get the gratitude of building and patining a model but I can now enjoy playing them on a battle field while showing them off to other people.

Any ways the whole reason I'm stArting this thread is to share my experience as a new warhammer 40k player to the dakka world. My goal is to learn and grow as a warhammer painter/builder with the dakka community and hopefully throught this thread someone else new starting out can learn something as well. My plan is to post weekly/monthly pictures and/or posts on this thread showing my progress as a new warhammer painter. I Will be posting updates on my progress including painting/building the miniatures, material, painting techniques, problems I encounter ect..ect..

As this being the first post I just wanted to explain a little bit about the tread and give the dakka community a little taste of what is currently in the works.



I currently have minitures on back order and I will be receiving them within the next week. The army I have on back order consists of a box of berzerkers, box of CSM, a rhino, and a kharn the betrayer. This will be my start up 500 point army that I will be working on within the next few months. This is an expensive hobbie but I think with a little bit of research and hunting you can save a good amount of money.

When I decided to get into the hobbie I gave myself a budget of $200-$250 to get a 500 point army and the necessary tools to get building. I found a guy throught kijiji who was able to get me discounted models and paid $140 for my starter army (brand new in boxes) at first I was going to get the dark vengeance battle box set but I wasn't really happy with the models that came with it. It is a great choice I think for starting out as it comes with templates and the up to date rule book, But I already had found pdf versions of the rulebook and codex online. At my local warhammer store I spent $80on citadel paints and and a pin vise (He threw in a free p3 base coat brush to help me out). I also needed to buy primer, basic tools, glues, and basing material. I managed to find almost everything at the dollar store and hardware store. I got gorilla glue, sprue cutters and primer for $15at crappy tire. I found a Cutting mat, hobbie knife, pva glue, cheap brushes, cock tiles, and basing maters such as small rocks and moss all at the dollar store for $15. Over all I think I did a pretty good job spending exactly $250. My next post will be when my models have arrived and hopefully I will have put some paint on them.

Hope you guys appreciate this post and if there is anything you want to add to help me and any one else starting out that would be great.

Thanks dakka

be prepared to spent lots of money. :p

Looks like a great start.

would be interesting to see a new persons voyage into the hobby with an actual budget count.

 Desubot wrote:
Looks like a great start.

would be interesting to see a new persons voyage into the hobby with an actual budget count.

Thanks, I'm gonna try and keep the price down but it's just a matter of time before I need new models or paint.

You'll lose track of how much you spend very quickly.
I have no recollection of how much I've spent in my 8 years in the hobby (my current guess-timate is in the ~2000$ range)

You don't simply "lose track" of how much you spend on this hobby - you form an impenetrable mental block. It's a self-defence mechanism that increases comfort and grants plausible deniability when your spouse raises an eyebrow.

 oadie wrote:
You don't simply "lose track" of how much you spend on this hobby - you form an impenetrable mental block. It's a self-defence mechanism that increases comfort and grants plausible deniability when your spouse raises an eyebrow.

LOL

On the bright side, at some point, you *can* own pretty much all the hobby supplies that you can possibly buy (how many pin vices can one man own!), and then you're on the models-only track If I never bought new models until my old models were painted, I would be a richer man!

Hey dakka,

So waiting for my models is driving my crazy, I just want to start painting. I thought while I wait I would try out some basic basing from cork board and this green moss I found for a dollar at the dollar store. Here's just a pic of 4 differnt ways I used the moss to achieve differnt looks.
I first tried using the moss straight out of the bag and glued it on. I then tried cutting it up into small peices and then into medium peices. The last thing I tried was taking long single stands and gluing them standing up as if it was a plant rather then grass or moss.

This is the moss I found at the dollar store.


This is a trial using the moss.


I didn't do anything special with the cork board. I just primed it to test out the krylon primer I bought.

Let me know what you guys think, cheers.

Ahh hope your enjoy your adventure into the hobby!
The initial startup is where the big money dump happens!
Once i was all set up I used to limit myself to one model purchase a week (thats when I was paid weekly)....

People do say it is an expensive hobby... But then you look at it compared to other things people do for enjoyment - Movies, Video games...

When you take into account the amount of time spent Cutting, Cleaning, Glueing, Painting, and playing with the models you purchased I am almost 10000% sure the $:time spent ratio would be far better than many other things people do for enjoyment!

hey dakka,

For those like myself living in Canada knows the roads get pretty slippery during the winter time which leads to tonns and tonns of salt and sand. Well this is what the roads look like after all the snow has melted.


Any ways I was doing my yearly driveway sweep when it hit me, this would make perfect basing sand. I got a box and filled it up with about 25-30 pounds of the gak. before it was usable I knew I had to separate the fine sand from the medium sand and pebbles. I first used a spaghetti strainer to take all of the large sand grains and pebbles. I than used a sift to separate the fine sand from the medium sand. I'm actually really happy with the result.



Once the sand was sorted I thought once again while waiting for my models to arrive from back order I would do another basing test. I first glued some cork together and used the a little bit of medium sand and fine sand to cover majority of the base. When it was dry I primed it with some Krylon camouflage ultra flat black primer. Im really happy with the primer so far and for only $6 and change, how can you go wrong? I than used dawnstone and did a heavy drybrush all over the base followed by a light drybrush of scar white on the highest points. Using the moss I got from the doller store for a buck I cut it up into fine peices and glued it on in small random patches all over the base. Im super happy with the end result and for a whopping price of $0 I have enough sand to probably last me forever. BOOM! Not only was this a great example of cutting down the cost, but also a great way as a beginner to practice the drybrushing technique and properly learning how to prime. I think its better to mess up a piece of cork than your expensive models and from what I hear Krylon is nearly impossible to strip.

here is the progress and final result.


Thanks for reading Dakka, till next time.

Cheers.

Really nice looking bases!

americanzero wrote:
Really nice looking bases!

Hey thannks for reading, Hope you enjoyed it. Can't wait for my models to arrive I'm just dying to start painting. I will be posting much more content in the near future.

Cheers!



Automatically Appended Next Post:

sm3g wrote:
Ahh hope your enjoy your adventure into the hobby!
The initial startup is where the big money dump happens!
Once i was all set up I used to limit myself to one model purchase a week (thats when I was paid weekly)....

People do say it is an expensive hobby... But then you look at it compared to other things people do for enjoyment - Movies, Video games...

When you take into account the amount of time spent Cutting, Cleaning, Glueing, Painting, and playing with the models you purchased I am almost 10000% sure the $:time spent ratio would be far better than many other things people do for enjoyment!

Hey man thanks for reading. Yea i totally agree with what you said, I love both strategy games and painting/building so it's pretty much a 2 for 1, Can't beat that in my opinion. like you said now that I have my paints and most of the materials needed to build/paint I think other than buying new models and adding a new colour here and there it's not really that bad. people have no problem spending 40 bucks on a 24 of beer weeky and you got nothing to show for once it's gone.

Cheers!

Sup Dakka,

So FINALLY my models came in WOOT WOOT!!!! Well almost all of them kharn the betrayer never made it to me.



Yesterday I picked up my models and got a couple army painter brushes. I know expensive brushes are probably the way to go but im new at this so why spend big money on a brush when I don’t even know how to take care of them properly, Any advice of brush care?

I ended up putting 4 berzerkers together for a test run and did my best to clean all of the mold lines and and get the model ready for paint. A big issue I ran into while removing the parts from the sprue was my cutters.... the ones i bought were an epic fail. For all you newbies out there learn from my mistake and spend the extra money on some proper sprue cutters. not only was the bulky tool hard to get in tight spaces but when it did it more or less broke the connection rather than snipping it leaving me with either a dent in my model or a big chunk of sprue sticking out of the part. This is not ideal if you want a smooth look. Moving forward I decided to paint just one mini to test out my colour scheme. I went with the black legion colours but added a little twist on it, I call them the bone legion of khorne!!

So this is my very first model of the Bone legion and I have not glued the head yet cuz im not really sure how I feel about the look on "Bonezerkeres", although i think it would look pretty badass on allmost everything else. The idea is good but im not happy with how the colour turned out. I think its too white and i had issues with properly applying the white, now that i mention it i think i had problems with allmost all my colours, not sure if im thinning to much or not enough. I think maybe i might go with a more bone look for the head rather than a plain white, what do you guys think?

Another problem i ran into due to my lack of skill and speed was that my paints kept drying out on me. This is weird because Im using a home made wet pallet. the pallet consists of a plastic container with a bed of wet sponges and a piece of parchment paper laying on it, Any advice:?

here is my first ever painted model and the bone legion prototype, I think i could of spent a little more time with it and made the shading and layering a little better, but i just want to get my colour scheme down before i went all out so i rushed it. Once im happy with my colours i will spend more time on detail. SO once again i think the BONEZERKERS look stupid with a white helmet and need to have a red helmet.




SO for my questions.

-paint brush care?
- how do i keep my paint from drying out and why isnt my wet pallet working?
- what do you guys think about the white helmet with black legion armor? ( berzerkers need red helmets) do U think a more pale white/bone colour would look better? Any other Ideas?
- any advice on thinning paints?
- does my gold trim look too yellow?


thanks for reading dakka, if there is anything you would like to add to help me out feel free, its always appreciated.

Cheers!

-paint brush care?
-- masters brush cleaner is amazing

- how do i keep my paint from drying out and why isnt my wet pallet working?
-- not enough water? How did you make your palette?

- what do you guys think about the white helmet with black legion armor? ( berzerkers need red helmets) do U think a more pale white/bone colour would look better? Any other Ideas?
-- I quite like the colour scheme, I don't believe that this is your first attempt, so take that as you will

- any advice on thinning paints?
-- water is the best thinner. acrylic medium is good when you need a thicker, thinned paint (when that makes sense, you need acrylic medium/lahmian medium), flo-aide and stop-dri are amazing products as well.

- does my gold trim look too yellow?
It looks gold to me!

kb_lock wrote:
-paint brush care?
-- masters brush cleaner is amazing

- how do i keep my paint from drying out and why isnt my wet pallet working?
-- not enough water? How did you make your palette?

- what do you guys think about the white helmet with black legion armor? ( berzerkers need red helmets) do U think a more pale white/bone colour would look better? Any other Ideas?
-- I quite like the colour scheme, I don't believe that this is your first attempt, so take that as you will

- any advice on thinning paints?
-- water is the best thinner. acrylic medium is good when you need a thicker, thinned paint (when that makes sense, you need acrylic medium/lahmian medium), flo-aide and stop-dri are amazing products as well.

- does my gold trim look too yellow?
It looks gold to me!

Hey thanks for the feedback.

My wet pallet is very simple I got a sealable plastic container and layed a bed of sponges in the bottom. I then added some water and layed parchment paper over the sponges. The sponge Im using is a cloth sponge and it's about a 1/4 inch thick, on the package is says super absorb. I'm wondering if it's possible that it sucking the moisture out inatead of keeping it moist. Maybe try switching my sponge?

Believe it or not but this is my first ever warhammer model I have ever painted, mind you I am quite artistic and I've always been pretty good at freehand drawing/painting pictures. When I was about 12-13 (12 years ago) was the last time I touched or painted a model.

But thank you I will take that as a compliment.

Cheers!

The wet palette reservoir shouldn't be able to leech moisture out of the paint - diffusion gradients, osmosis, and all that fancy science-y stuff just won't allow it. If your paint is still drying out, it means that the rate of evaporation above the palette paper is exceeding the rate of transfer from below.

How wet are you keeping your sponge? If you seal up the container for an hour or two, is there any condensation on the palette's surface? There should be a little - if osmosis can't outpace evaporation in a sealed container, it'll never do once the surface is open to the air! Generally, I more than saturate the reservoir - it's not so much there to absorb water as it is to provide support for the parchment paper surface and make sure the water stays in contact therewith. I use a few layers of paper towel, in mine, and add water until a thin layer is visible between the pressed texture on the top layer. Basically, as much as I can add without setting the surface to floating. I also wet the parchment thoroughly before I apply any paint - you don't want big beads of water on top, but it gives osmosis a head start.


On the other questions, kb_lock covered the basics. I would add a few points, though:

On brush care, I also love Master's brush soap. The bigger part of brush care, though, is 'simply' avoiding abuse - an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, as they say. Rinsing frequently while painting will help keep any paint from setting up near the ferrule, which is the #1 cause of splayed tips. Using thinned paint allows it to flow off of the bristles, which is much gentler on them. The brush becomes a guide for the paint, instead of a bristled spatula for pushing it around, which can kink and curl the fine hairs.

Speaking of thinning, I do probably 90% of it with plain old water. Various acrylic mediums have their uses, but they're simply not necessary for most common tasks. The "thicker thinned paint" bit kb mentions alludes to the fact that acrylic medium is simply paint without pigment. When you want to drop the opacity (lower pigment density) without turning your paint into tinted water, you want to add more of the acrylic binder. It'll then behave like normal paint, only less intensely colored. When I do add mediums, it's usually Pledge FloorCare - a stand-in for the old Future/Klear. It's quite thin and contains a surfactant, along with the acrylic in solution. Serves the purposes of gloss medium, water, and Flo-Aid, all in one convenient dropper bottle (if you decant some into one - the big bottle is a bit unwieldy ).

As for how much of your chosen diluent to add, that's notoriously hard to answer. It really depends on your painting style, the starting consistency of your chosen paint, and the task at hand. Best practice when starting out, IMO, is to add a blob of neat paint and a drop of thinner onto your palette, near each other, but not touching. From there, you can pull a bit of each into a central pool for painting, adjusting consistency on the fly by pulling in more of one or the other. After a while, you just develop a feel for it, and can move to pre-mixing by the drop or brush-load to save time.

 oadie wrote:
The wet palette reservoir shouldn't be able to leech moisture out of the paint - diffusion gradients, osmosis, and all that fancy science-y stuff just won't allow it. If your paint is still drying out, it means that the rate of evaporation above the palette paper is exceeding the rate of transfer from below.

How wet are you keeping your sponge? If you seal up the container for an hour or two, is there any condensation on the palette's surface? There should be a little - if osmosis can't outpace evaporation in a sealed container, it'll never do once the surface is open to the air! Generally, I more than saturate the reservoir - it's not so much there to absorb water as it is to provide support for the parchment paper surface and make sure the water stays in contact therewith. I use a few layers of paper towel, in mine, and add water until a thin layer is visible between the pressed texture on the top layer. Basically, as much as I can add without setting the surface to floating. I also wet the parchment thoroughly before I apply any paint - you don't want big beads of water on top, but it gives osmosis a head start.

Hey thanks a bunch oadie,
your feedback explains much better to me how a wet pallet is suppose to work. First off I don't think my pallet had enough water in it and secondly my paper was kind of wrinkled up so I didn't have a flat piece of parchment paper to ensure proper 100 percent contact with the wet sponge. I think these are the two factors of why my pallet was not working. im going to try it out 2day and see if this will give me a better result. As for thinning I'm just using water for most of my paints and a medium for my metallics. Is it a bad idea to thin the metallic paint in the wet pallet with a medium or should that process be done outside of the wet pallet?

I'm probably going to Pick up some masters brush cleaner and from what you have told me as long as I don't abuse the bristles, keep the ferrule clean and frequently wash my brush while painting I should be good.

I really appreciate your feedback and thanks for the read.

Cheers!

Personally I really like the white/bone helmeted colour scheme. It's nice and clean and the colours work well together. Plus - it's a nice refreshing take on the figs rather than the oh so usual red red red khorne red red......nice job. Gold looks fine - I'd give it a wee ink wash and 'brass' it up a little but thats just me. Great job so far

 Januine wrote:
Personally I really like the white/bone helmeted colour scheme. It's nice and clean and the colours work well together. Plus - it's a nice refreshing take on the figs rather than the oh so usual red red red khorne red red......nice job. Gold looks fine - I'd give it a wee ink wash and 'brass' it up a little but thats just me. Great job so far

Hey thanks a lot,

It feels good after putting 4-5 hours into a model with good feedback. I'm actually starting to really like the white helm as well, it's a nice focal point and makes the fig pop. I now need to work on getting my shading and highlighting skills, I'm still not super percise yet with my brush. I wanted to highlight the gold with gehanas but my local store was sold out and I find the auric armor gold is just way to yellow Once I get the right highlight I'm going to touch them up.

Thanks for the read and feedback.

Cheers!

I'm not the biggest fan of gehenna's gold. I much prefer balthasar gold, washed with agrax adn then highlighted with balthasar again and a very light outer touch of runefang. can then use watered down washes at the end to turn the 'goldiness' up or down. Auric......yeah - no thx!!! When it comes to the metallics though - the washes are super usefull. I've recently been using a green wash over runelord brass (love that colour) to give a jade gold effect. really happy how it turned out.


You can kinda see what I mean hear. All the golds started out as runelord brass and then used washes to change them

Sup Dakka,

So I Banged another 3 out today painted from 4pm till about 11:30pm and im really happy with the turnout. my army is slowly but surely coming together.



As of right now this guy is my favourite. I did a little highlight around the eyes to make them seem like they are glowing green i think it gave it a nice little touch to the mini. As you can see I did a much better highlight/edge highlight on my first model, I need to get more precise with my brush and really take my time with the future models. On the other hand my wet pallet worked much better by adding water and properly laying out the parchment paper. While priming the models I did accidentally over spray one of the models which resulted in some detail loss but now i know not to prime outside when its windy.



Once again thanks for the read and if you have any feedback or tips just let me know, thanks Dakka.

Cheers!



Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Januine wrote:
I'm not the biggest fan of gehenna's gold. I much prefer balthasar gold, washed with agrax adn then highlighted with balthasar again and a very light outer touch of runefang. can then use watered down washes at the end to turn the 'goldiness' up or down. Auric......yeah - no thx!!! When it comes to the metallics though - the washes are super usefull. I've recently been using a green wash over runelord brass (love that colour) to give a jade gold effect. really happy how it turned out.

Nice work Januine that model looks great and i really like the way you did your gold thanks for the tip. I cant wait for my models to start looking like that. As for the washes i used balthasar gold then washed with Raiklan flesh shade then highlighted with bathasar gold. I might have to give your gold technique a try.

thanks for the feedback.

Cheers!

Really liking your models and how they're coming together. For a new guy, you really are doing well.

 jreilly89 wrote:
Really liking your models and how they're coming together. For a new guy, you really are doing well.

Thanks buddie .

Cheers!

Sup Dakka,

I have been pretty busy since my last post and haven’t been able to get much painting done. Thought I would give a little studio update on what's in the works. I managed to paint another 4 bonezerkers using the batch style panting in groups of 4 and its working pretty good thus far. I also did a little test on magnetizing my infantry for swapping out special weapons.


I first clean up all the plastics with a hobbie knife and assemble each model leaving them off the base and the head not attached.


I than primed the body and the base on the minis black and the heads grey. I just recently bought some white primer as i think it will be much more productive since the colour of my models heads are white.


Once primed I painted them all. I really need to learn how to take my time and not rush the paint job I over washed and ended up with gloss smudges over the flat black paint. Note to self DONT OVER WASH! Any ways this is how they turned out.




Couple changes I might do. First off I’m not really happy with the flesh tone as I would like to give a more dead pale flesh tone look, that chaos marine looks way to healthy . I’m thinking of maybe a paled witch flesh over the current flesh tone might do the trick. any suggestions?
I’m also thinking that I need to base my mini black instead of painting right after the black primer. Reason behind this thought is every time I make a mistake and need to clean it up I end up with a small blotch due to the slight shade difference between the abandon black and primer. Does anyone know is there is a brush on primer that works?
Here is my whole army so far


Yesterday my magnets came in the mail and after a long week of work I thought I would crack open a beer a work on magnetizing some of the minis arms.

I tried magnetizing the weapons to the arms two different ways. first I tried magnetizing the top of the fist directly to the gun where the handle would normally go. I was not really happy with the results as i damaged the inside of the bolter due to the lack on meat on the gun. I’m using 2mmx1mm magnets and not sure if they even make them smaller. The second trial I think went much better, I cut the arm at the wrist and magnetized the arm to the first. I now need to work on a better arm to first transition, maybe a couple files to create a more flush connection? any suggestions?



Once again Dakka thanks for the read and If anyone has any advice or comments to make please feel free to do so.

Hope everyone is enjoying the weather as much as I am right now and have a great weekend.

Cheers!

Januine wrote:I'm not the biggest fan of gehenna's gold. I much prefer balthasar gold, washed with agrax adn then highlighted with balthasar again and a very light outer touch of runefang. can then use watered down washes at the end to turn the 'goldiness' up or down. Auric......yeah - no thx!!! When it comes to the metallics though - the washes are super usefull. I've recently been using a green wash over runelord brass (love that colour) to give a jade gold effect. really happy how it turned out.

Show me this jade gold effect now! I have been dreaming of a jaden tzeentch army for millenia!

But back on topic..
I wont give any painting advice, as many much better painters already have, what I will give you is a high five. These dudes look awesome. I love the colour scheme and they are turning out really well. Your bases also look fantastic, bases can really make all the difference on a model. One thing I will suggest is get some skeletal heads and do some swaps. Perhaps give them some true bone heads?







Automatically Appended Next Post:
as for magnets, I haven't magnetised any weapons other on vehicles. But arms into torso is generally pretty easy. You remove the lack of meat issue.

With wrists, i'd suggest, get soms greenstuff or milliput, sink the magnets a little deeper, then put a little GS milliput to fill the hole. This way you can file down and add (with more GS / milliput) till the wrist is how you want it. do the same to the hand.

This also means your magnets aren't directly touching, as ive had a couple occasions where they pull the magnet out of the other bit.

I wont give any painting advice, as many much better painters already have, what I will give you is a high five. These dudes look awesome. I love the colour scheme and they are turning out really well. Your bases also look fantastic, bases can really make all the difference on a model. One thing I will suggest is get some skeletal heads and do some swaps. Perhaps give them some true bone heads?

Hey solar Shock thank you so much for your kind words... your making me blush.

funny you mentioned that I should "bone" up my bonezerkers more. Last night I had a couple hours to work on putting together the last 4 berzerkers and did a little bit of a conversion for the bonezerker champion. I thought about doing this to more of the berzerkers but I wanted people to be able to tell they are berzerkers by the distinctive head shapes. By the way are those pics you posted work from you? If so GREAT JOB they look fantastic and it gives me a ton of ideas for future conversions.

Here is what I was working on last night, both wrists are magnetized for swapping out weapons and I used the chest plate from a rhino kit. I know the skull I used really isn’t all that, but I think it gives my theme a nice little "POP". I'm Currently working on finding skeleton heads/bones bits for converting the group of CSM that i'm working on next.



Thanks for the read Solar Shock.

Cheers!

yeh hes awesome, thats exactly what I was thinking. sadly those aren't my works just a quick googlay.

I like the choice of the rhino chest piece, very fitting Skulls wise;

Warhammer fantasy - skeleton dudes.
GW's skull kit.

theres plenty of kits that would have great skeletons, however personally i'd use a bit website if you can. I use a UK based one, but im sure there are some in europe. They are great, a little pricey occasionally, but if you only want certain parts its easier than buying a whole kit. As for some Khorne conversions, I did do a few when I was younger, but I stopped collecting about 12, and started again a few years ago when I was 21, so I play orks now.

But heres a couple I particularly liked;


I dont know if anyone has said, but the rule of cool is pretty much the most dominant rule
So if you have any cool ideas that may not particularly fit, (for example giving them 2handed weapons without a pistol in sight), then in general most players won't complain, as long as its obvious they are zerkers. As you can see I used a rhino lid as a shield and made a double headed axe. Another conversion I did which I cant find, is I used the skulls on chains to create a flail, so I just trimmed away the chainsword teeth and stuck them to the end, looked pretty nasty

Show me this jade gold effect now! I have been dreaming of a jaden tzeentch army for millenia!

The jade gold thing is well easy. 2 layers of Runelord Brass over a grey base coat. The a few washes of coelia greenshade, each wash reducing to the the deep recesses more and more. then just highlight the edges with RB again

Sup dakka,

So I managed to finally finish my bonezerker champion and I'm really happy with the end result. the last three from the box are in the works and they only need the heads painted for my first squad to be complete. I'm not sure what unit to start on next. In the past weeks I managed to pick up the whole dark vengence chaos side for 50 bucks with an extra hellbrute. Since I have two hellbrutes I'm thinking of painting up a hellbrute and see how it goes. I was going to work on the cultists but I need a couple colours in order to paint them.

Here is the final result.


Thanks for the read dakka I will be posting much more in the near future as I have been pretty busy.

Cheers!

Sup Dakka,

So due to my job working in the trades my company has been super busy now that the weather has picked up and I havnt been able to spend to much time at the bench leading to the lack of posts/updates. As of yesterday I finally put a couple hours in and build/primed 10 cultists, I have some time this weekend to finally get some actual painting done. Any ways Before I start painting I noticed the cultists have a ton of scars in the shape of the chaos symbol and what not. I'm planning on basing the skin with rakarth flesh then washing with raikland flesh shade back into rakarth flesh and an extreme highlight of pailed witch flesh. Here is the issue I have, I was planning on shading the scar tissue with carroburg Crimson but I don't have the time to get the wash and I'll be painting tonight and tomorrow. I'm wondering if any one can give me some help on possible mimicking the wash using maybe nuln oil or raikland flesh shade mixed with a red paint or if any one could give me a pointer on creating my own wash using just red paints from citidel. The paints I currently have to work with is Mephiston red, khorne red, waZdakka red, nuln oil, raikland flesh shade and aggrax earth shade. I also have Gray, white, black and blood for the blood God if that makes a difference. Any help is much appreciated and I'm sure I could always add the wash later in a future once I get it but i like to get it done right then and there.

Thanks dakka cheers.