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Made in gb
Painting Within the Lines




Haven't seen it on here yet so will pass it on..

Apparently, new spray will launch this weekend, slightly off white stuff. Always been a fan of the undercoat sprays GW put out there, so good to see!

Happy to be the bearer of this exciting exciting news.
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






Is it a color match to anything? Zandri Dust, perhaps?
   
Made in ie
Calculating Commissar




Frostgrave

Is it going to be a permanent feature this time or is it limited run like the coloured primers of the past?
   
Made in gb
Painting Within the Lines




Im not sure on either to be honest. Huge rumours like this never come with all the facts.
   
Made in us
Sniping Reverend Moira





Cincinnati, Ohio

I'll never understand why people pay their asking price for these primers.

 
   
Made in us
Oberleutnant





 cincydooley wrote:
I'll never understand why people pay their asking price for these primers.


This.

What's the asking price on this mana from heaven? $30? $40?

Save money, buy a Badger.







 
   
Made in gb
Painting Within the Lines




It costs me the same as army painter, give or take a few pence. And it's (IN MY LOFTY OPINION) a little better.
   
Made in us
Sniping Reverend Moira





Cincinnati, Ohio

It costs me $3 for a Can of primer.

Buy a cheap airbrush if you want colored base coats. You'll come out ahead in less than a year.

 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






Cheap primer looks like cheap primer on a model though. If you care about minimizing the loss of detail, it matters. No matter what priming solution you use, ANY paint will add a little bit of volume to your model, and this contributes to the loss of detail. The more and thicker the paint, the more detail is lost.

In my experience, GW spray is actually better than both Krylon and army painter, plus there's the bonus of matching GW paints, if you intend to use GW paints. It's not just a little bit, either; it's quite a lot thinner. However, none of them come close to a black primer (including P3/GW), because you need way less primer to cover. And that doesn't come close to the even coverage you get with an airbrush using black primer.

So, I generally agree with your conclusion: get a cheap airbrush, and you'll save a whole bunch of money.

The one exception is terrain tiles and large hills. I still use (black) spray primer for this, because if you give it a couple of weeks to bake on before you touch it, the bond is just excellent, and durability is very important on a playing surface.
   
Made in us
Sniping Reverend Moira





Cincinnati, Ohio

 Talys wrote:
Cheap primer looks like cheap primer on a model though. If you care about minimizing the loss of detail, it matters.


Categorically not true. I know of multiple painters that are far better than any of us that use Krylon primer unless they're using their airbrush to prime.

 
   
Made in us
Androgynous Daemon Prince of Slaanesh





Norwalk, Connecticut

I use $3 primer from Walmart. I put up a pick of a blighknight in the painting thread (not the finished thread). Feel free to check how thick/poor that cheap primer is.

Reality is a nice place to visit, but I'd hate to live there.

Manchu wrote:I'm a Catholic. We eat our God.


Due to work, I can usually only ship any sales or trades out on Saturday morning. Please trade/purchase with this in mind.  
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






 cincydooley wrote:
 Talys wrote:
Cheap primer looks like cheap primer on a model though. If you care about minimizing the loss of detail, it matters.


Categorically not true. I know of multiple painters that are far better than any of us that use Krylon primer unless they're using their airbrush to prime.


I have taken photos before to demonstrate the thickness of Krylon compared to the thickness of P3 black. I primed a sprue with Krylon, AP tinted, P3 black, and black Gesso, and measured it with a micrometer; and primed a couple of models and photographed it. Krylon observably and measurably thicker than P3 black. Whether you can paint around that or not, or whether you care, is a whole other matter. I am NOT saying you can't paint up a Golden Demon with a Krylon job. Maybe it's happened, who knows. I'm just saying, if you measure it with a scientific instrument, it is thicker than P3 black.

To me, there is no reason to ever prime in any way other than airbrush unless (1) you're very casual at painting and aren't going to paint much anyways or (2) you're doing terrain tiles (3) you're on vacation and you don't have your airbrush with you But for yourself, use whatever you are happy with I am not trying to convince anyone to change.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2015/05/27 16:19:31


 
   
Made in gb
Wrathful Warlord Titan Commander





Ramsden Heath, Essex

A can takes up less room that a Airbrush and the initial outlay will always be less.

Two reasons why you could buy a can of GW spray.

Anyhoo it will be good for GW to finally sell a spray primer so that those that swear by GW primer can now actually get some rather than mistakenly believing GWs spray paint is a primer.

How do you promote your Hobby? - Legoburner "I run some crappy wargaming website " 
   
Made in us
Lieutenant General





Florence, KY

 Talys wrote:
 cincydooley wrote:
 Talys wrote:
Cheap primer looks like cheap primer on a model though. If you care about minimizing the loss of detail, it matters.


Categorically not true. I know of multiple painters that are far better than any of us that use Krylon primer unless they're using their airbrush to prime.


I have taken photos before to demonstrate the thickness of Krylon compared to the thickness of P3 black. I primed a sprue with Krylon, AP tinted, P3 black, and black Gesso, and measured it with a micrometer; and primed a couple of models and photographed it. Krylon observably and measurably thicker than P3 black. Whether you can paint around that or not, or whether you care, is a whole other matter. I am NOT saying you can't paint up a Golden Demon with a Krylon job. Maybe it's happened, who knows. I'm just saying, if you measure it with a scientific instrument, it is thicker than P3 black.

To me, there is no reason to ever prime in any way other than airbrush unless (1) you're very casual at painting and aren't going to paint much anyways or (2) you're doing terrain tiles (3) you're on vacation and you don't have your airbrush with you But for yourself, use whatever you are happy with I am not trying to convince anyone to change.

Funny yous should mention P3 primer. I use Duplicolor Flat Sandable Primer because that is what Aly McVey used when she was painting for Privateer Press. While at $5 US its not the budget basement stuff, its a good bit cheaper thasn what GW sells.

'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents
cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable
defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'

- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty
Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Dankhold Troggoth






Shadeglass Maze

I picked up and used some Army Painter primer this past weekend (at the local shop's recommendation over the GW brand, which they also had) and it was absolutely terrible!

Granted, not as terrible as the cheap Krylon and Rustoleum brands I also had at home and tried on test pieces... but all of them were extremely grainy compared to my fantastic Tamiya primer.

The problem is I needed white and only had the Tamiya in grey... how is the GW white? Luckily I had also picked up some Vallejo airbrush primer so I did it that way (it takes a lot longer though, so I'd like to have a rattle can solution).
   
Made in us
Martial Arts Fiday






Nashville, TN

Every Golden Demon or Best Army trophy I have won has been primed with $0.96 Walmart flat black. Screw GW and their ridiculous primer.

"Holy Sh*&, you've opened my eyes and changed my mind about this topic, thanks Dakka OT!"

-Nobody Ever

Proverbs 18:2

"CHEESE!" is the battlecry of the ill-prepared.

 warboss wrote:

GW didn't mean to hit your wallet and I know they love you, baby. I'm sure they won't do it again so it's ok to purchase and make up.


Albatross wrote:I think SlaveToDorkness just became my new hero.

EmilCrane wrote:Finecast is the new Matt Ward.

Don't mess with the Blade and Bolter! 
   
Made in us
Sniping Reverend Moira





Cincinnati, Ohio

 Ghaz wrote:
I use Duplicolor Flat Sandable Primer because that is what Aly McVey used when she was painting for Privateer Press. While at $5 US its not the budget basement stuff, its a good bit cheaper thasn what GW sells.


I'm fairly certain this is also what Jen Haley uses when she's not priming with her airbrush.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 RiTides wrote:
Luckily I had also picked up some Vallejo airbrush primer so I did it that way (it takes a lot longer though, so I'd like to have a rattle can solution).


The Badger primers are also incredible. I think I have some samples of the white if you want me to send you one.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/05/27 17:38:05


 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






 notprop wrote:
A can takes up less room that a Airbrush and the initial outlay will always be less.


You can get an airbrush+compressor for like $70, sometimes less. Add $12 for the big size Vallejo primer (I'm going to guess 200ml or so?), which will prime more models than most people will paint in their entire lifetime. I mean, it will finish 1000+ infantry sized models (maybe thousands?). I dunno, I go through a lot of models, and even the medium sized bottles (that I get for every color other than black) are only $6 and last forever.

In comparison, I blow through 2 rattle cans just to do a 6x4's worth of tiles. Even if you are using the cheapest spray paint at Wal-mart, an airbrush will still cost less per miniature, I think.

The space is really minimal, TBH, since you can just use your painting space for priming, or even do it outside (where you would use your rattle can). Plus you don't have to worry about humidity and all that. And, an airbrush is just a wonderful tool that's both useful and fun.

But yeah, if you never plan on painting more than say, 100 miniatures, rattle can makes sense economically.
   
Made in gb
Using Object Source Lighting







I like GW ones, the black is thin and slightly glossy which makes things more shiny. The white is dull and coverage is quite good.

   
Made in gb
Arch Magos w/ 4 Meg of RAM





I'm excited, though I was hoping GW were going to bring out a grey primer, off-white is intriguing all the same.

Bye bye Dakkadakka, happy hobbying! I really enjoyed my time on here. Opinions were always my own :-) 
   
Made in us
Myrmidon Officer





NC

Do note that the spray paint that GW currently sells is not primer, not labeled as primer, and doesn't work the same as normal primer. It's just spray paint.

They dropped the term "primer" from their spray paint a while back.
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Dankhold Troggoth






Shadeglass Maze

 Absolutionis wrote:
Do note that the spray paint that GW currently sells is not primer, not labeled as primer, and doesn't work the same as normal primer. It's just spray paint.

They dropped the term "primer" from their spray paint a while back.

Really, "skull white" is not a primer? Ergh, glad I didn't get it then...

 cincydooley wrote:
 RiTides wrote:
Luckily I had also picked up some Vallejo airbrush primer so I did it that way (it takes a lot longer though, so I'd like to have a rattle can solution).


The Badger primers are also incredible. I think I have some samples of the white if you want me to send you one.

Thanks for that, cincy! I was able to get what I needed done so I will get my own for the future, just want to make sure I get the right stuff (preferably a rattle can for priming white well).
   
Made in gb
Arch Magos w/ 4 Meg of RAM





 Absolutionis wrote:
Do note that the spray paint that GW currently sells is not primer, not labeled as primer, and doesn't work the same as normal primer. It's just spray paint.

They dropped the term "primer" from their spray paint a while back.


This is the description of Chaos Black Spray:

Citadel Colour spray cans are designed for undercoating metal and plastic models. The purpose of the undercoat is twofold: it acts as a primer and it provides a flat base colour to paint onto. You will find that a spray finish is far flatter and better to paint onto than a brushed undercoat.

This can contains 400ml of black undercoat.

Bye bye Dakkadakka, happy hobbying! I really enjoyed my time on here. Opinions were always my own :-) 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





 Talys wrote:

But yeah, if you never plan on painting more than say, 100 miniatures, rattle can makes sense economically.


No offense, but just because you own an airbrush doesn't mean you have to be snarky about it. Nobody NEEDS an airbrush to prime a model. Buying an Airbrush to prime your model thinking it will make it better makes just about as much sense as buying a $30 paintbrush.

What most people are looking for in primer is ease of use, reliability, quality, and price.

Ease of Use - It's easy to prime the model with. It's difficult to "mess up" your model at the outset.
Reliability - You want the primer to go on smooth and not cause defects from the first time you use it until the can is almost empty.
Quality - It does a good job priming. Paint sticks to the model and doesn't rub or chip off.
Price - You're not paying a ton of money for all that.

I've been painting for 15 years and I don't own an airbrush. I have no need. I certainly don't think I need to spend a hundred dollars on an airbrush and a compressor just to prime my models, especially if all that hardware is going to be taking up valuable space in my closet when it isn't in use 95% of the year.

Plus one doesn't need to clean or maintain any equipment when all you have to worry about is a spray bottle.

I'm not poo-pooing airbrush enthusiasts. If you use one, great. But let's not perpetuate some kind of myth that you need an airbrush to prime your models for this hobby or that it's the only "economical" choice.
   
Made in gb
Warning From Magnus? Not Listening!



UK

 Bottle wrote:
 Absolutionis wrote:
Do note that the spray paint that GW currently sells is not primer, not labeled as primer, and doesn't work the same as normal primer. It's just spray paint.

They dropped the term "primer" from their spray paint a while back.


This is the description of Chaos Black Spray:

Citadel Colour spray cans are designed for undercoating metal and plastic models. The purpose of the undercoat is twofold: it acts as a primer and it provides a flat base colour to paint onto. You will find that a spray finish is far flatter and better to paint onto than a brushed undercoat.

This can contains 400ml of black undercoat.


Don't let facts get in the way of a cool story!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Talys wrote:
Airbrushes yaaaaay


Shame Citadel don't still do the spray guns, they were quite good for priming in colour. Airbrushes have their drawbacks! You've got to clean and maintain the thing for starters, and there's a level of skill involved. I'm on team "don't be a dick about it" too, I think

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/05/27 19:47:29


Dead account, no takesy-backsies 
   
Made in us
Sniping Reverend Moira





Cincinnati, Ohio

Murrdox wrote:


What most people are looking for in primer is ease of use, reliability, quality, and price.

Ease of Use - It's easy to prime the model with. It's difficult to "mess up" your model at the outset.


If you're looking for an airbrush simply for the purposes of priming or basecoating models, Ease of Use is high. Put paint in reservoir. Pull trigger. And no shaking!


Reliability - You want the primer to go on smooth and not cause defects from the first time you use it until the can is almost empty.


Priming with an airbrush is so much more reliable than a spray can, especially if you have any sort of weather to deal with. No worries about cans going 'bad' due to humidity or temperature fluctuation, at all.


Quality - It does a good job priming. Paint sticks to the model and doesn't rub or chip off.


It's a wash here. I think the quality is pretty similar for both.


Price - You're not paying a ton of money for all that.


Let's pretend you're paying $15 per can, or whatever, of what GW is charging.

And lets pretend, conservatively, you're buying a can every two months, or 6 cans on the year. That's $90.

So is this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html

And again, if all you want to do is prime and basecoat, that's plenty kit right there.

And then you don't have to spend a dime in year 2.


I've been painting for 15 years and I don't own an airbrush.


You should follow that link above.


But let's not perpetuate some kind of myth that you need an airbrush to prime your models for this hobby or that it's the only "economical" choice.


You certainly don't "need" one. But let's not perpetuate some kind of myth that an airbrush is a less "economical" choice than a can.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/05/27 19:57:16


 
   
Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

I use standard spray can primer, or acrylic gesso, depending on what I want to prime.

GW stuff is usually pretty good but a lot more expensive than alternatives.

I'm writing a load of fiction. My latest story starts here... This is the index of all the stories...

We're not very big on official rules. Rules lead to people looking for loopholes. What's here is about it. 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






@Kilkrazy - Acrylic gesso is wonderful. It's my go-to if I'm travelling (as hotels get upset if you use spray paint on their balconies.... ). I also use it a lot just to prime a small part that I forgot. God only knows I do THAT all the time.

@Murrdox -- No need to get defensive. I wasn't being snarky; I was stating a fact regarding the break-point for economic viability of airbrushes. At about 100 models it gets close, at about 200 models you'll be ahead.

As I said, I'm not trying to convince anyone to do something different. Only presenting facts.

What cinceydooley stated was spot-on, but if you want to use Rustoleum or P3 or Citadel... please do! No need to defend yourself. It's your preference. Nobody is saying you're doing something wrong or bad.

By the way, although you're quite right, an airbrush might only occupy a tiny fraction of your hobby time (for me, maybe even less than 1%!), priming and basecoating are pretty important steps, and you have to do it with every single model you build. Not to mention that some models, like vehicles are just a thousand times easier to basecoat. But hey, Duncan does a spot-on job with a crappy $6 drybrush on the GW video, so again, I'm not trying to say you're doing something wrong. I just find it way faster and easier to give big panels a once-over this way.

Also this kit from Amazon will do the job just fine, is less than $80, and includes free shipping, and Amazon's 30 day exchange/refund:

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Multi-purpose-Dual-action/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432748169&sr=8-1&keywords=airbrush

One thing a lot of people who have painted for decades might not realize is that in the 90s, airbrushes and compressors were super expensive, there wasn't much of a range of airbrush paints, and there weren't airbrush primers (at least, not at my hobby shop, and no interwebs then). Now, none of this is true; it's a very accessible technology, and just a good tool. Just like a Kolinksy brush -- you don't need one; use craft store brushes if that makes you happy.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/05/27 20:09:50


 
   
Made in se
Executing Exarch






 Talys wrote:
 cincydooley wrote:
 Talys wrote:
Cheap primer looks like cheap primer on a model though. If you care about minimizing the loss of detail, it matters.


Categorically not true. I know of multiple painters that are far better than any of us that use Krylon primer unless they're using their airbrush to prime.


I have taken photos before to demonstrate the thickness of Krylon compared to the thickness of P3 black. I primed a sprue with Krylon, AP tinted, P3 black, and black Gesso, and measured it with a micrometer; and primed a couple of models and photographed it. Krylon observably and measurably thicker than P3 black. Whether you can paint around that or not, or whether you care, is a whole other matter. I am NOT saying you can't paint up a Golden Demon with a Krylon job. Maybe it's happened, who knows. I'm just saying, if you measure it with a scientific instrument, it is thicker than P3 black.

To me, there is no reason to ever prime in any way other than airbrush unless (1) you're very casual at painting and aren't going to paint much anyways or (2) you're doing terrain tiles (3) you're on vacation and you don't have your airbrush with you But for yourself, use whatever you are happy with I am not trying to convince anyone to change.


Or 4) you don't have room to put an extraction booth and ventilation connected to a window in your apartment... which you need unless you enjoy paint in your lungs and live someplace where you can paint in a garage or with at least two windows open all year round. I would love to buy an airbrush but it's just not physically possible.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/05/27 21:18:42


 
   
Made in gb
Ambitious Marauder



London

For those that use an airbrush this stuff is excellent and sandable and harder wearing than the Vallejo primer, comes in 10 colours.




Or go with Ammo by MIG Jimenez same stuff 8 colours..

   
 
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