Yeah, the principle certainly works. NMM is a technique/method of painting as much as it is an 'effect', so the colours you pick don't really matter. Gold is in essence brown/yellow NMM, silver is grey/blue NMM, so the method carries over to any colour you'd care to use. The principles are the same, going from dark to light, peaking at the most reflective points, it all applies. The learning curve is knowing what colours/mixes to use (took me a while to figure out the best light grey for silver, in the end I found one with a blue tint worked best), so experiment on sprues/spares before the mini itself.
Personally, I'd avoid battle damage. NMM is at its best in smooth, uninterrupted transitions from dark to light to dark, and I think any kind of chipping/scuffing will break that, ruining the effect.
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