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Through the Warp and Back Again~ A Soul Drinkers Journey  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






Hello all!

I am starting this painting journal to log my ideas, experiments, and completed mini's as I start my Soul Drinker Army.

I am new to the Hobby so this will be a way for me to track my progress, keep myself accountable, and to get feedback for how I can improve.

I have chosen Soul Drinkers because they feel like an underdog to me, they are loyal, but betrayed chapter, and with the ending of the novels there is just enough wiggle room to forge my own story line to revive the chapter.

As far as whether to play them as CSM, or SM I have decided to actually try a system where I will do both(Mainly because I have alot of unused models for both). Basically to reign in my purchases, and sort of RP my way into the chapter I am going to start with some basic 1000 point lists and each new unit will be earned through either Victories, Kills, or Objectives. I figure that I will make a list to roll against before each match to decide what the goal for my current team is, if I accomplish this goal during the match I will get points, that can be used on a separate list to earn the troops unit upgrades.

In this way I can earn(and paint!) each upgrade before splurging on another, and this will add a sort of dramatic rebuilding aspect of the chapter. Also it will force me to play the game!(I still have not learned how as I bought into 40k mainly to paint)

Playing two separate factions CSM/SM will allow me the ability to play both sides of what if's(did they get fully corrupted ont he other side of the Warp? Or did they pull a 13th Company and scavenge to survive and rebuild?)

Anyway I am excited to start this, and hope you all will enjoy the journey with me!
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






This right here was my first squad painted some months ago.

These guys were done with:
Bleached Bone
Liche Purple
Burnished Gold
Shining Gold
Mithril Silver
Boltgun Metal

Washes included
Levaithan Purple
Nuln oil

Varnish
Satin Liquitex

As you can see, that varnish came out way too glossy for me. I really thought that if I went int he middle it would be a happy compromise, but it turned out to not be. I will have to redo these guys in some Testors Dullcote, then maybe re highlight the weapons and then redo the Satin on just them.


As for the paint theme, Veteran units get the Gold shoulder treatment, basic infantry get the bleached bone. I will say this however, I seriously struggled with the Bleached Bone. It always seemed to look chunky and take like 10 coats to get it clean looking. It probably has to do with the Black primer, followed by Liche Purple undercoat being too dark to cover easy. it has definitely been a pain.
[Thumb - 11774798_663921223752376_283173128_n.jpg]
First squad

[Thumb - 11749673_663920930419072_1082962625_n.jpg]
Captain

[Thumb - 11749530_663921147085717_126095_n.jpg]
Standard marines

[Thumb - 11756566_661437254000773_1408855878_n.jpg]
Standard marines

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/02/05 09:01:22


 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






Next up was an Assault Squad. The Soul Drinker army was supposedly Masters of Drop Pod Assaulting so I felt some veteran Air superiority was needed.

With these guys I got to Experiment with some OSL effect, which was fun. I have to work on some wet blending techniques to get the transition better, but I really liked the outcome, especially with the green and purple together. I guess this makes them look a little evil(this is the SM army after all), maybe Fell orcish(Warcraft), but I figure "one doesn't look into the abyss without the abyss looking into you", they did go through the warp gate after all.

For the greens I used some Reaper mini colors:
Base Clear Green
Middle Pale green
Brightest Moth Green
Highlight Skull White

Grenade :
Lemon Yellow
Blackened Steel(replaced the Boltgun Metal for all Metal Parts)
Ruby Red(on chain sword teeth aswell)

You all know the story with the varnish(I actual;ly painted up about 30 mini's before I decided I hated how glossy they were, so I have alot to redo, bare with me)
[Thumb - 11749710_667180536759778_1095467184_n.jpg]
Squad Shot

[Thumb - 11774503_667180473426451_2023212248_n.jpg]
Captain

[Thumb - 11780545_667180353426463_1149252357_n.jpg]
Back Pack Glow

[Thumb - 11798195_667180346759797_174756994_n.jpg]
The Boys

[Thumb - 11721432_667180533426445_1700166233_n.jpg]
Power Fist Close up

   
Made in gb
Pious Palatine






A solid start. A cool scheme you have going on but if I may offer some constructive criticism, it lacks depth. Try utilising washes and highlights to add depth. Also your paint seems to be a touch thick, you'll want to thin it with water aiming for something like the consistency of milk.

Good idea utilising the Chapter to play both SM and CSM.

EDC
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






Ok, having got a Testors Dullcote can recently I decided to do another Assasult Squad and test my early Idea before I go in and redo my glossy guys. Here were the results



I really liked how these guys came out(Am still iffy about the axe, I wanted fel-lightning effects, but I think i made the lines too thick)

I also for the first time got to experiment with Basing. I wanted to go with the fel-green theme, and liked the idea of a poison earth, lava/acid effect going on. I stumbled upon some cheap Liquitex Ceramic Stucco and whipped up some test bases.

They were colored with the same colors as the Backpack glow, except with this addition:
Reaper paints
Rock base:
Black Green
Ulthuan grey Drybrush
Skull White Highlight

Channel base:
Viper Green
Clear green
Pale green
Moth green + Lemon Yellow 1/1 mix
Skull White Highlight
Games workshop Lamentors yellow Glaze

I really really like the bases. I might add some Cork board for Height on Captain pieces in the future, but overall it was fun to work with something new. I also feel like I could have easily changed the color scheme and had a good set up for Ice/river bases or Lava bases.



[Thumb - 12476107_758214814323016_572777252_n.jpg]
Squad leader and Assasult Marine

[Thumb - 12666521_758214787656352_1900163032_n.jpg]
Squad leader and Assasult Marine Side

[Thumb - 12695974_758214794323018_1267251424_n.jpg]
Squad leader and Assasult Marine Backpack

[Thumb - 12650167_758772660933898_1389519635_n.jpg]
Full Squad

[Thumb - 12674640_758772717600559_332196078_n.jpg]
Full Squad Angle

[Thumb - 12695933_758765057601325_1880712885_n.jpg]
Bases

[Thumb - 12665769_758765070934657_217462986_n.jpg]
Bases 2

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2016/02/07 12:30:32


 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






 evildrcheese wrote:
A solid start. A cool scheme you have going on but if I may offer some constructive criticism, it lacks depth. Try utilising washes and highlights to add depth. Also your paint seems to be a touch thick, you'll want to thin it with water aiming for something like the consistency of milk.

Good idea utilising the Chapter to play both SM and CSM.

EDC


Thank you.

yes, i still have trouble with paint consistency. I am either too thick, or I end up with something that takes like 10 coats before it is finally the shade I want, and end up getting impatient. Highlighting I have still yet to take the plunge. I understand the basics of line highlighting(thought I suck at it), but I'm just not sure what is the ideal highlight color for Liche Purple. Do i just go in with a light pink color? Or a solid Skull white?

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2016/02/07 12:35:12


 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






Got all the bases done for now.

Also went back through the miniatures and took off the Satin finish, replaced it with a Matt. Just have to re touch the weapons and gold.
[Thumb - 12722109_761890080622156_2089050372_n.jpg]
Few more bases

[Thumb - 12722020_761890083955489_1393476857_n.jpg]
Few more bases

   
Made in us
Never Forget Isstvan!





Green Bay, Wisconson

Cool, the chapter history is certainly open to a lot of ways to play.

The EvilDr. is right. You paint is too thick. It takes some time to learn but in the end it'll help with some more advanced techniques such as blending and highlighting.

I've never been a big fan of the 'gloss' look and find your 'dulled' version much better. The next step ( IMO ) would be to learn some wash techniques. I personally use NunOil ( GW ) on my silve or steel metalic bits, I use Earthshade ( GW ) on the bronze or golden bits. THis will dull them down add some depth. FoOllow up with linear highlight to show the edges or'gleem' using the original color.

Look through the paint tutorials here in Dakka for some really good instruction. Look through the Paint and Modeling blogs. A lot of them show some really cool techniques and how to do them.

Good start on the bases. My suggestion would be to add some red brown to the rocks for depth ( earthshade wash? )and a blend your green with a bit more yellow on the flow areas. My experience has been to over emphasize the colors than play it safe.

Look to see where you go from here.


 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






 Solar_lion wrote:
Cool, the chapter history is certainly open to a lot of ways to play.

The EvilDr. is right. You paint is too thick. It takes some time to learn but in the end it'll help with some more advanced techniques such as blending and highlighting.

I've never been a big fan of the 'gloss' look and find your 'dulled' version much better. The next step ( IMO ) would be to learn some wash techniques. I personally use NunOil ( GW ) on my silve or steel metalic bits, I use Earthshade ( GW ) on the bronze or golden bits. THis will dull them down add some depth. FoOllow up with linear highlight to show the edges or'gleem' using the original color.

Look through the paint tutorials here in Dakka for some really good instruction. Look through the Paint and Modeling blogs. A lot of them show some really cool techniques and how to do them.

Good start on the bases. My suggestion would be to add some red brown to the rocks for depth ( earthshade wash? )and a blend your green with a bit more yellow on the flow areas. My experience has been to over emphasize the colors than play it safe.

Look to see where you go from here.



TY. I took some of the models that didn't have as thick a coat on them and tried some of the basic techniques. Added some washes, including the agrax on the gold, then re-highlighting with the base color and it came out pretty cool. However the Earthshade on the black rock of the bases had almost zero effect, even after 3 washes. i will try some red brown like you said, instead of a wash and see what happens. Also the yellow in some areas of the green should help, it looked perfect while painting, but when it dried it blended too much, and the yellow wash was supposed to be a substitute for an ink wash( i didn't have yellow ink), but maybe I can't substitute the two for each other. The wash just blened the greens more.

Pictures will follow after I work on the bases a little more.
   
Made in us
Never Forget Isstvan!





Green Bay, Wisconson

Go for a drybrush of doombull brown ( or whatever GW has named it this month), Not all over but in splotches or marbling. Experiment with different patterns to break up the grey.

Look forward to see what you come up with.

 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut






HATE Club, East London

The matt finish looks much nicer to me. Looking forward to seeing more.

Though guards may sleep and ships may lay at anchor, our foes know full well that big guns never tire.

Posting as Fifty_Painting on Instagram.

My blog - almost 40 pages of Badab War, Eldar, undead and other assorted projects 
   
Made in us
Jinking Ravenwing Land Speeder Pilot





Pittsburgh PA, USA

I love the Soul Drinkers story as well. And it is a great idea to run them as both SM and CSM.

It just takes some practice to get your paints consistent. I agree with Fifty, that matt finish looks much better.

Looking forward to your next mini

Angels of Vengeance P&M Blog

A Tale of 5 Gamers!

Blood Knights Kill Team P&M

Crusade of Vengeance - A Tale of Sacrifce and Brotherhood
www..com/dakkaforum/posts/list/545145.page 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






For the bases I took your advice and added some Chestnut Brown-Reaper to areas i felt would have alot of troop movement. I tried to keep some of the peaks that ashy black, but the valleys got a heavy dry brush of the brown, with a agrax wash for a muddy feel.

Overall i like the way the came out. I still feel like experimenting to make the pools a little more sickly though. While they still look cool, I was hoping for an acid/ nurgley feeling to them, perhaps im going to have to pick up some neon yellow ink and give that a test.

As for the details/thick paint, I picked up the model that was the least thick, and still had alot of the details visible(the commander) and tried some basic steps.

For him I repainted the base purple(Liche) over all but the recesses. I also went with a heavy targeted Nuln oil wash in just the recesses of the armor and pads. Then I tried a Aggrax wash over the gold and a re-highlighting with burnished gold. I like the way it came out alot. Only problem I had was the wash didn't seem to want to take in the small circuitry details on the leg plates.

Going forward i think i have a better understanding of how thin to get my base coats(found a guide that said 1 drop paint to 4 drops flowaid, so am going to try that)

Also I am running real low on Liche Purple, and I'm told the new purple is a different shade, so while it's ordering I decided to experiment with the Army Painter Alien Purple base coat spray for these next 5 Termies. It's a really nice purple color, however it is definitely much lighter than the Liche purple, so I may have to darken it alot with washes.
[Thumb - 12596062_765203393624158_820506522_n.jpg]
Finished Bases

[Thumb - 12736159_765203406957490_1824345980_n.jpg]
Finished Bases 2

[Thumb - 12714302_765203450290819_616893932_n.jpg]
Commander 1

[Thumb - 12714500_765203476957483_301584720_n.jpg]
Commander 2

[Thumb - 12722025_765203416957489_564315478_n.jpg]
Commander 3

[Thumb - 12735740_765203430290821_1147467677_n.jpg]
Commander 4

[Thumb - 12714038_765203493624148_209583872_n.jpg]
Test termie

   
Made in us
Never Forget Isstvan!





Green Bay, Wisconson

Are you using an AB for your prime and base coats? Are you using pre-painted models?
I asking so I can understand where your starting from. Usually AB primer (or AB layers in general ) produce a thinner layer thus protecting the detail better than brushing. If your using pre-painted figures it's best to 'strip' them first down to the plastic and start over rather than paint an additional layer on top of an existing paint job. Some Spray cans of paint go on thicker or can easily ruin an figure if sprayed to long. Most of this can be avoided by experience.

Since you mentioned flow aid I'm assuming AB. The consistency of the paint (and quality) as well as air pressure make a big difference. There are some great tutorials on Dakka ( Utube ect) of figure painting using the AB. Feel free to jump on other blogs and ask how they do things.

I like where you going and look forward to seeing what new things you add; both in builds and techniques.

 Hagoroth wrote:
For the bases I took your advice and added some Chestnut Brown-Reaper to areas i felt would have alot of troop movement. I tried to keep some of the peaks that ashy black, but the valleys got a heavy dry brush of the brown, with a agrax wash for a muddy feel.

Bases look great. it adds some depth to the rocks. They look fine but if you wanted to take it further you might have to go darker to wash the brown.. a very diluted black or nun oil then highlight a dawnstone grey or drybrush Chestnut again. Just Thinking outloud.

Here is a base I'm currently working on it show a high contrast ( I think most models you have to over contrast to get the effect to pop ) representing concrete. I'll add some reddish brown steel rusted elements to break up all the grey and a few bit and bobs to draw the eye to the center (dead cultists). ( The Red Chaos symbol being another example. )

This may be a bad example as smaller bases are less dramatic than what one can achieve on a larger base.

This message was edited 5 times. Last update was at 2016/02/18 22:37:28


 
   
Made in us
Jinking Ravenwing Land Speeder Pilot





Pittsburgh PA, USA

Great work so far!

Angels of Vengeance P&M Blog

A Tale of 5 Gamers!

Blood Knights Kill Team P&M

Crusade of Vengeance - A Tale of Sacrifce and Brotherhood
www..com/dakkaforum/posts/list/545145.page 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






 Solar_lion wrote:
Are you using an AB for your prime and base coats? Are you using pre-painted models?
I asking so I can understand where your starting from. Usually AB primer (or AB layers in general ) produce a thinner layer thus protecting the detail better than brushing. If your using pre-painted figures it's best to 'strip' them first down to the plastic and start over rather than paint an additional layer on top of an existing paint job. Some Spray cans of paint go on thicker or can easily ruin an figure if sprayed to long. Most of this can be avoided by experience.

Since you mentioned flow aid I'm assuming AB. The consistency of the paint (and quality) as well as air pressure make a big difference. There are some great tutorials on Dakka ( Utube ect) of figure painting using the AB. Feel free to jump on other blogs and ask how they do things.

I like where you going and look forward to seeing what new things you add; both in builds and techniques.

 Hagoroth wrote:
For the bases I took your advice and added some Chestnut Brown-Reaper to areas i felt would have alot of troop movement. I tried to keep some of the peaks that ashy black, but the valleys got a heavy dry brush of the brown, with a agrax wash for a muddy feel.

Bases look great. it adds some depth to the rocks. They look fine but if you wanted to take it further you might have to go darker to wash the brown.. a very diluted black or nun oil then highlight a dawnstone grey or drybrush Chestnut again. Just Thinking outloud.

Here is a base I'm currently working on it show a high contrast ( I think most models you have to over contrast to get the effect to pop ) representing concrete. I'll add some reddish brown steel rusted elements to break up all the grey and a few bit and bobs to draw the eye to the center (dead cultists). ( The Red Chaos symbol being another example. )

This may be a bad example as smaller bases are less dramatic than what one can achieve on a larger base.


Sorry for the confusion. First, no I am hand painting. I read somewhere that using a combination of Liquitex Slo-dri and Flow-aid instead of water to thin the acrylics is better/ makes them last longer than just water, so I have been using that.

As for the models, almost all of mine are bought from ebay, pre assembled/ primed in black. of the few that are painted, i have them going through the green stuff/ sonic cleaner. But it almost never takes off anything past the primer.

Of the ones I do re-prime, i do it via Army Painter Spray cans. I usually try to do it in very short spurts/mists so it doesn't go on too thick.

The way I think of it, most of these used mini's have thick primer on them covering alot of detail, some are good, but some suck. So its better for me to learn on these, then when I'm comfortable, I can start assembling and painting my Dark Vengeance set.


As for the bases I see what you mean. I was nervous that I might end up ruining it and "over" highlighting. I didn't want to push it too much. but like you said, they are so small, I really need to over emphasize it so that they will pop.
   
Made in us
Never Forget Isstvan!





Green Bay, Wisconson

Trial and error. I Simple green my repaints as well I'll use a old tooth brush to scrub off what I can. What ever you do you find that those early model look poor compared to you latest stuff as you get better.

You can find some amazing painters on Dakka, check out what they are doing and start asking questions.
Back to painting!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/02/19 20:08:27


 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






Hey all, sorry for the delay, been short on time to paint lately.

This guy is still a work in progress. What I have so far.

I am looking to add a lighter green power glow to the head of the hammer, maybe some green lightning.

I also have to go in and fix the brown leather on the handle a bit more. Plus add a few washes, glowing green eyes, and I am not sure what i will be doing basing wise on this guy.

I do like his overall direction though.

One part I am struggling with is what to do for the face. I want it that bone off white chapter color, but as it is now, none of the details pop out, so I fear i will have to do a sepia wash, then re-highlight with the base color.

Any other tips you all think could add to this model?

[Thumb - 12935251_792959554181875_633849159_n.jpg]
Front

[Thumb - 12935294_792959587515205_690200870_n.jpg]
Shield

[Thumb - 12939193_792959567515207_1744259413_n.jpg]
Side

[Thumb - 12939491_792959580848539_1410940937_n.jpg]
Back

[Thumb - 12966848_792959544181876_1955118690_n.jpg]
Shoulder

   
 
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