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Made in au
Regular Dakkanaut





I was wondering what was the best way to fix up joins between model parts? I have used green stuff however have found it is hard to ensure that the edges of the green stuff taper into the rest of the model. Is there a trick for this? Or something better to use (eg layers of PVA?).
   
Made in se
Guard Heavy Weapon Crewman




Halmstad, Sweden

Have you tried liquid green stuff? I've been avoiding it for a looooong time thinking it was a stupid money grab but after trying it out it was at least decent at filling out gaps. Especially if you, like me lack the GS skill to fix it with regular stuff.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





liquid green stuff is just outright horrible because it shrinks when it drys.. depends on the location but go get some rubber clay shapers. thats how you taper it out as well as brush on sealer. what i do is taper with the shapers and then try to get some thin layers of reaper brush on sealer to really keep it smooth.

the one thing you really gota avoid is partially raised areas of the sealer so if you can paint the entire area or drag it into a recess then do it. use common sense i guess

My trader feedback on other websites

http://www.overclock.net/u/193949/eosgreen
http://www.ebay.com/usr/questionmarks
 
   
Made in gb
Blood-Drenched Death Company Marine





United Kingdom

Superglue actually does a pretty good job. Vallejo do some plastic putty in a bottle that I tend to use and I like it aot

   
Made in se
Guard Heavy Weapon Crewman




Halmstad, Sweden

eosgreen wrote:
liquid green stuff is just outright horrible because it shrinks when it drys..


Hmm, really? I haven't noticed. Though I haven't used it too much, only for small gaps. Gonna have to try it out more then I guess.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Yeah I hate liquid greenstuff. Put it on a gap, dries, gap still visible, apply more, dries, gap still visible, repeat ad nauseam. By the time you fill the gap you could have just used a half decent filler.

But different gaps like different types of fillers. Greenstuff works well for gaps on organic models. Things where it's good to be able to manipulate it before it cures in to more complicated shapes, but you won't need to manipulate it afterwards.

Milliput can also make for a good gap filling. It can either be applied directly or watered down as more of a paste. It can also be smoothed over and blended in with a bit of water to help it along. Here's the first tutorial that came up when I googled...

http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com.au/2009/10/tutorial-filling-gaps-with-milliput.html

For long seams on things like vehicles, where it's vitally important that the gap is filled and then sanded smooth in to the surface to make a flat/smooth surfaces, then something like tamiya putty works well. You apply slightly more than you need then sand it back with sanding sticks to the correct level and then blend it in with some higher grit sand paper.
   
Made in us
Boosting Space Marine Biker





Decatur, IL

Lester Bursley on YouTube used to have a video on what he used to fill in gaps. It was superglue and baking soda. I've used it before, and it works good. Wait for it to cure and you can sand it down flat, and you can't tell there was a gap there.

For bigger gaps, you will need something like milliput, though it is a pain to sand in my opinion, but still works well, and sets hard where green stuff is softer setting.

 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Green stuff and a clay shaper will get great results! Make sure you buy the "firm" shaper. I have a few shapes, but the rounded one seems best for most situations.
[Thumb - image.jpg]
Clay shaper pic

   
 
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