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So how do you remove paint from plastic models?
If they're made of metal just leave them in thinner.
But plastic mealts in thinner.
Turpentine mealts plastic also.
I've heard that nailvarnish-remover (unsure of the spelling there ) without acetone should do it. But where the heck do you find such a thing?
Does someone else know anything about it?

Dip your minis in brake fluid over night, very good results -- dissolves the paint right off. Don't leave them there too long though.

If you can find any Dettol (never saw any when I was in the US), just leave the mini in that over night. It shreds the paint right off, and does nothing whatsoever to the plastic. I've had best my results with Dettol.

Navin

Just go to Target, or walgreens, get a bottle of regular Pinsol, cover models for 30 minutes, get a soft bristled tooth brush, a well ventilated space, and newspaper to catch the splash, them models be stripped in no time.

I have not done either but I have seen the results of brake fluid and you pretty much have a new model.

Simple Green. Let them soak about 40 mins, take a toothbrush and scrub under some running water. Does pretty good, dosn't hurt plastic at all.

The simple green method is not so good. I left my models soaking for a week and it had a hard time with certian models, especially primer.

I gave up because each model took so long. Put my stuff away over a year ago and let it sit. It is still a pain to get off...it takes way way too much time, and is messy as all hell.

After getting frustrated I went to our local forums and tried to see if I was doing something wrong. Here was some of the replies:


1) I've used Castrol Super Clean for years now. It works on metal and plastics equally well. I've left minis soak for weeks without a problem and I've stripped multiple batches of minis with the same fluid. Usually, after 24hrs of soaking, the paints just comes off under a running tap. Use a brush for the finer details. My one warning is USE GLOVES. You can buy CSC at Walmart. I think it's a 5 gallon purple container and goes for $4.
2) I'll second CSC as it has always work well for me.

The USE GLOVES is extemely true. It's cleans everythign, including the first few layers of your skin. Getting this stuff on your hands, makes your hands completely dry and cracked. Nasty stuff but works well for minis.
3)The proper chemical should be all the tool you need. CSC and JASCO will liquify the paint to the consistancy of jello, picking the paint out of the cracks should be as easy as a hard bristled tooth brush. GGLEEP it sounds like you really are giving yourself more work that you should...Were the figs originaly painted with enamal? or two part epoxy? I can't imagine (besides automotive primer) a substance that won't slide off after soaking in a vat of JASCO over night...

I haven't done this yet as I haven't had time to go pick up the Castrol...just thought I'd give you a heads up before you go the simple green route.

Cool, a funny thing is we've looked everywhere for the nailvarnish-remover without acetone, and we finally found it. In this most common store you can find.
But if that doens't work I'll try the brakefluid. Thanks for the replies guys.

How to remove paint from plastic models. (Note, do not try this at home)

1) Spray them with vinegar

2) stand them on a cookie-sheet

3) place in the oven

4) bake until droopy

Happened to a kid from the local store. His dad was sure it would work.

Woah some people are stupid, Gaaargh...

I've never had any problems with the Simple Green method, though sometimes I need to pick paint out of the crevices in armor or on a face.

Your kidding.....bad news for the kid if thats his biological father.

Infantryman: Ya thats the problem. It takes forever to get the paint in the recesses out, or in hard to reach areas. Also, you end up washing it off more then peeling it off. The paint gets smeared everywhere, you rince, scrub some more. It works no doubt, just is a  lot of work. The other method is supposed to work with little to no scrubbing.

In the US, there is a product called "Kleen Strip", availiable at HOME DEPOT. It is a paint brush cleaner that works fantastically!!! I first say it used by HANS in his griffon rebuild, and had to buy it myself. I'm currently stripping a 3000 pt. marine force. This stuff works wonders.

A question about the break fluid, if you leave a model in it over the night, does it strip the paint off the model all by itself or do you have to scratch some of it off with a brush?

Fantastik, always does the charm, plastic or pewter for that matter.

"If you can find any Dettol (never saw any when I was in the US), just leave the mini in that over night. It shreds the paint right off, and does nothing whatsoever to the plastic. I've had best my results with Dettol.

Navin"

I'll hold you to that as I have just dumped a spare painted Cadian into some Dettol to leave over night. Will see what kind of results will follow tomorrow.

"The Works" is something I tried reciently. I heartily encourage you not to--it does nothing.

I think "How to Remove Paint from Plastic or Metal Models" should have its own sticky seince it keeps getting asked every three weeks or so.

Agrees with pnweerar, Dettol does strip paint off plastic minis well (cheers for photos btw)

Learn something new everyday on Dakka

For those in the States, it seems you can get Dettol here, assuming this is the same stuff you all are referring to:

http://www.britshoppe.com/dettol.html

can anyone confirm that this is the paint-stripper you're referring to?

Yeah Cruentus, that looks like the stuff I used

---

I use Goof Off 2. Works well enough.

Hee, hee! Aother Dettol convert. Glad it worked out for you Estragor.

Navin

I have some new tech for everyone. Its called Grez-Off its a heavy duty degreaser in a yellow bottle think dirty lawn mover/engine and tools. Its made with alkaline salts and doesnt have terribly high toxicity although it says avoid skin contact-I never had an issue as the only time I had it on my hands was in the scrubbing phase...

Submerge 30-45 min and then hit it with a tooth brush and running water until suds are gone. You'll get off 98% of the paint and the remaining paint will be stuck in the casting/mold flaws which are to small to get out/care about. Once reprimered youll never be able to tell.

Figs will come out great with no melty negatives. Even took the paint off the basing sand and stuff I originally based with...didnt have to rebase.+++

Super Clean, from car parts stores, is the best.

I have an armor/epicast stompa that needs stripping i think its pewter will it stip easily like metal minis?

As mentioned before, for armour/ epicast pewter/plastic, use Fantastik, it won't hurt either material.

I've just bought my 1st Litre of Dettol. I'm in Australia and can certainly sayy it's nuking the paint. As a matter of interest the active ingredient is marked as Chloroxylenol at 48mg/mL ( 4.8% W/V ). This might help people in areas without Dettol. I'm feeling very happy as that nasty paint job rinkles off like a raisin. Thanks Navin.

"I've just bought my 1st Litre of Dettol. I'm in Australia and can certainly sayy it's nuking the paint. As a matter of interest the active ingredient is marked as Chloroxylenol at 48mg/mL ( 4.8% W/V ). This might help people in areas without Dettol. I'm feeling very happy as that nasty paint job rinkles off like a raisin. Thanks Navin."

Yep, Dettol works wonders. Almost finished stripping over 40 minis using the stuff now- and the best part is it doesn't famage plastic or metal in any way. I have left a squad of old plastic marines in the dettol tub for over a week and they are complete bare plastic after a quick rinse in water

Just remember if you use Brake Fluid that it's not really something you're supposed to pour down the sink (some stuff in there doens't react well with ground water), that being said it is what I use, though I have always found myself having to brush them off a bit. Your friendly neighborhood mechanic will usually take it off your hands free or on the cheap if you take your car in for an oil change or whatever.

The alcohol seems to work pretty well on metal models, but I never had any success on the plastic part, though it does seem to break down superglue pretty well.

I have a friend who swears by pinesol, have never tried it myself though.

Pine Sol is bad for plastics in my experience.

I also just picked up a can of KleenStrip Brush Conditioner (iirc) from Home Depot/Lowe's.  It was the 'new formula', and I had used the old formula (from a plastic container) with no problems on plastic.  The new formula melted my plastic model into its component parts of oil and goo.  There was nothing left.  Just goo...

I'm going to get myself some Dettol

Cheers CoffinDodger, glad to know you can get the miracle stripper in Australia. The chemical content will help me find it too.

I myself have had best results with Acetone free nail polish remover, on the part of not damaging the model anyway. But it's not so easy to use or quick. I tend to go at the model with a q-tip (ear bud?) by hand. But after repriming you wouldn't know it had been stripped.

But I will convert to Dettol if it?s as good as it sounds.

Usiel