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Make Your own Miniatures Case 2.0. The 19 dollar Plano Wonder! (5/5 Contact Cemt. and Elec Knives)  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in us
Trollkin Champion





Grand Rapids, MI

AesSedai wrote:My question to you is: do you think a dremel and grinding bit can sharpen a putty knife to a sharp edge?


Yeah, it will definitely sharpen it.

But, you actually spin the fitting in a circle so that the sharp edge cuts the foam. Granted I have no idea what you plan to do, but it might be hard to cut that way.
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

AesSedai wrote: I'm planning on a variation, but I'll be using a couple sharpened putty knives to do the "press cutting".

My question to you is: do you think a dremel and grinding bit can sharpen a putty knife to a sharp edge?


A dremel can sharpen a putty knife to an edge (I'd recommend the "sharpener" attachment which includes a plastic guide) but the press cutting method (or "pound cutting method" ) as shown by swampy turtle requires a hammer. I don't think the putty knives would stand up very long to being hit with a hammer, and they wouldn't work well as a slicing knife either.

As Steak alluded to, cutting without pounding requires a slicing motion. Either laterally as with a razor knife (as seen in the first post), or in a circle as with my fitting cutters. You have to apply some downward pressure of course, but it's the slicing motion that cuts the foam.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Steak wrote:Yeah, I ended up buying the Dremmel bits as well, they work great


One other thing to note, the Harbor freight 1/4 shank power drill griding bits are much, much bigger and more substatial than the dinky little ones that come with their motor tool.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2012/01/13 14:41:45


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Made in jp
Sinewy Scourge






USA

Elif, are you sure that a sharpened edge can't cut through 2" of foam through direct vertical sustained pressure, without any slicing involved?

I'm hoping that it can. My case plans are based on that idea.

"drinking liqueur from endangered rain forest flowers cold-distilled over multicolored diamonds while playing croquet on robot elephants using asian swim suit models as living wickets... well, some hobbies are simply more appealing than others." -Sourclams

AesSedai's guide to building a custom glass display case for your figures

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Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

The first few cuts might work. but the hammering might bend the putty knife. I'm almost sure it wouldn't work with just hand pressure.

Still, if you've already got a dremmel, a putty knife isn't very expensive. Give it a shot with some scrap foam and see what happens.

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
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Made in jp
Sinewy Scourge






USA

Elif, you were right, hand pressure couldn't do it. I now have 3 razor sharp putty knives :( and nothing to use them for.


I'm just going to use a utility knife now. I think your tut is great, unfortunately I have too many unsuitable shapes (raiders, etc) to really take advantage of it.

"drinking liqueur from endangered rain forest flowers cold-distilled over multicolored diamonds while playing croquet on robot elephants using asian swim suit models as living wickets... well, some hobbies are simply more appealing than others." -Sourclams

AesSedai's guide to building a custom glass display case for your figures

Kabal of the Twisting Abyss--Blog Laenea, A Tendril of Hive Fleet Hydra--Blog

Always looking for games in/near Raleigh! 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Sorry it turned out that way. Utility knives are really the answer for unusualy shaped figs. I used them for quite a bit of my Mechwarrior and Void Junker's cases.

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
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Made in us
Storm Trooper with Maglight







some images from christmas. Theses cases arent modfied yet but the look and layout of the bottom should be enough to show off how well the case works. Something i havent figure out yet is for my valks where to place them? it doesnt leave alot of room for them. This is my main armys case with the tanks and troopers. The one i made earlier is with me at uni and im still putting together the remaining 750+ points of the army. (all together around 2000+ points)

Bottom and Troops (many many many troops)



Bottom and elite + HQ units



This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/01/16 17:27:35


   
Made in jp
Sinewy Scourge






USA

Hey Elif,

I made some trays last knife and I was quite surprised at how smoothly a utility knife can cut foam. Thanks for the encouragement.

"drinking liqueur from endangered rain forest flowers cold-distilled over multicolored diamonds while playing croquet on robot elephants using asian swim suit models as living wickets... well, some hobbies are simply more appealing than others." -Sourclams

AesSedai's guide to building a custom glass display case for your figures

Kabal of the Twisting Abyss--Blog Laenea, A Tendril of Hive Fleet Hydra--Blog

Always looking for games in/near Raleigh! 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Happy to be of help! The only thing I would mention is be willing to change blades often. Foam dulls blades really quickly and a dull blade can make a frustrating mess. Still, blades are cheap, so it shouldn't be much of an issue.

Glad it's working out for you.

Swampyturtle,
I'm not totally sure, but you may need a separate case for your Valks. I've got a valk and a couple of tanks left for my force and while I have room for the tanks and some infantry, I don't think the Valk is going to fit into my two existing IG cases.

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
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My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
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Made in us
Doc Brown





San Diego

That first case looks pro

Director at Fool's Errand Films a San Diego Video Production and Live Streaming company.

https://foolserrandfilms.com/

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




I got a Plano case and decided to give this a try, and it worked beautifully. I took a 2" copper coupler and ground its edge to a knife angle, then took a pocket knife sharpener around the opening till it was like a razor. When sharp the coupling cuts the foam with ease and makes clean holes for figs. I backed up the foam trays with 2mm high density foam I got at the craft store. My buddy likes it so much he's thinking of doing one for himself.

Thanks for the Tip!!!
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Glad the tutorial worked out for you. Thanks for the tip about the pocket knife sharpener! Can you post a link to this device?

If it's not to expensive, it may be a better solution than a diamond file for doing the final sharpening.

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
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My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
Made in us
Furious Raptor




Fort Worth, TX

Sorry to slightly necro this thread, but I've recently made two cases using this guide.

I tried one of the two trays using the hammer method and the copper method was much more effective for me. I've actually ordered a third from Amazon to make specifically for my vehicles.

The first two that I ordered from Amazon did not have the customizable bottom layer. Instead, it had the two egg crate foam layers and a small sheet of thin foam which isn't nearly as useful as the customizable foam of some of the posted pictures.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/03/28 19:45:21


I out with in both 40k and WHFB.
Co-host of the HittingOn3s Podcast
 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Thanks for the update! I'll make sure to check the next cases that I purchase to make sure I'm getting the right foam.

Can you link to the amazon item you purchased?

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
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My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
Made in us
Furious Raptor




Fort Worth, TX

Eilif wrote:Thanks for the update! I'll make sure to check the next cases that I purchase to make sure I'm getting the right foam.

Can you link to the amazon item you purchased?


http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Protector-Four-Pistol-Case/dp/B000P3WPKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333162091&sr=8-1

I just got my third, for my ghost arks and vehicles. It, like the other two before it, just had a thin, approximately 1/2" layer of foam. It works, just isn't as nice as the pick and pull stuff for things like Rhinos, Predators, etc.

Regardless of that, I have three cases for $60. Sure, I bought a dremel (3000 model), hobby knife, and other supplies mentioned in this thread, but I can use those for other things. For my situation, I do not include them in the costs of the cases. My biggest complaint is with myself. I held the foam while cutting the holes out so that I could watch TV, so the holes aren't straight enough to utilize as many holes as others in the thread have. My mistake.


I out with in both 40k and WHFB.
Co-host of the HittingOn3s Podcast
 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




kcwm wrote:
Eilif wrote:Thanks for the update! I'll make sure to check the next cases that I purchase to make sure I'm getting the right foam.

Can you link to the amazon item you purchased?


http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Protector-Four-Pistol-Case/dp/B000P3WPKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333162091&sr=8-1

I just got my third, for my ghost arks and vehicles. It, like the other two before it, just had a thin, approximately 1/2" layer of foam. It works, just isn't as nice as the pick and pull stuff for things like Rhinos, Predators, etc.

Regardless of that, I have three cases for $60. Sure, I bought a dremel (3000 model), hobby knife, and other supplies mentioned in this thread, but I can use those for other things. For my situation, I do not include them in the costs of the cases. My biggest complaint is with myself. I held the foam while cutting the holes out so that I could watch TV, so the holes aren't straight enough to utilize as many holes as others in the thread have. My mistake.



Does the case still have the pluck foam?
   
Made in us
Storm Trooper with Maglight







if you got a wal mart or acadamy sports nearby you could go in store and buy them. When i went to acadamy this past friday, i checked the cases and they still had the pluck foam. Sounds like you got a bad batch or the seller isnt selling the pluck foams like they should

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I ordered mine on Amazon, and it also did not have the pluck foam. I'll have to cut it. Not a big deal, but still a little disappointing.
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Those of you who didn't get the pluck foam, was the foam dark-grey/black, or the light grey foam pictured in the Amazon ad?

All the cases I've bought in the past have had a pluck sheet and have been Dark-Grey/Black in color. However, the foam in the amazon stock pic is light grey and the flat sheet doesn't look like pluck foam. It could be that Plano is phasing out the pluck, in which case I may want to buy a couple of the old style cases quickly!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/04/03 15:52:47


Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
http://chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/


My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
Made in us
Shunting Grey Knight Interceptor




Michigan

Going to make myself one of these this weekend for all of my tyranid MCs, brilliant idea.

2000

2000

My name is BlueTau, and I don't even own a Tau army anymore.... I have confused my own identity.




DS:90S+G+MB--IPw40k11++D+A+/areWD-R++T(T)DM+

 
   
Made in us
Furious Raptor




Fort Worth, TX

The foam has been dark gray. I doubt a company like Amazon is purposely holding out on the pluck foam. It's likely that Plano is phasing or has phased it out.

I used spray adhesive to combine two of the thin, flat sheets together. I then adhered some leftover strips of the EVA foam to the inside of the holes that I cut for my Rhinos, and this seems to be working just fine. If I used the third sheet, it'd likely cover them up completely.

I also glued together two of the egg foam for bigger things like my two Necron Ghost Arks, fragile figures like the Necron Wraiths. I'll be able to fit 8 rhino/predator sized vehicles in the double layer of foam and both ghost arks and other vehicles in the double layer of egg crate.

I checked my local Wal-Mart here in Lewisville, TX and they didn't have any of the these cases. Although this Wal-Mart had a small gun section, I haven't checked other Wal-Marts. I also haven't checked the local Acadamy stores because there's not one close to my apartment, but I'll have to check there.

If I can pick one up with the pick and pull layer, that'd be great. If I am unable to, I'm content with what I have and with the price I've paid for it. In fact, I might order a couple more.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Reporting in:

Academy Sports and Outdoors has them for $15, but they also contain the single, thin layer of foam.

I decided to go to Bass Pro Shop. They sell them for $25, but all four at that store had the pick and pull layer, so I picked one up. I asked a sales clerk and he said that they do not price match.

The pick and pull layer appears to be as thick as two of the single, thin layers glued together, similar to what I've done for my vehicle container. I can take pictures later.

If you have an Academy, I'd say that getting two and gluing the two thin layers together is a better value than getting one with the pick and pull layer. If I didn't want a better way to secure sof of my bigger based models, like the Necron Wraiths, I wouldn't have bought the one I did from Bass Pro.

I could not find the item on bassproshop.com and academy.com said that they weren't available online.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2012/04/05 13:26:20


I out with in both 40k and WHFB.
Co-host of the HittingOn3s Podcast
 
   
Made in nl
Trustworthy Shas'vre




DFW area Texas - Rarely

I get them at walmart in the DFW area, and often they have the three layers are described (the bottom layer is about 1" of pluck
foam).

Several of my gaming friends use these cases and they are awesome.

Also, as a note, the GW trays fit nicely in them, with just a bit of room around the edges. I am out of town right now, but will try and post up some pics when I get home over the weekend.

DavePak
"Remember, in life, the only thing you absolutely control is your own attitude - do not squander that power."
Fully Painted armies:
TAU: 10k Nids: 9600 Marines: 4000 Crons: 7600
Actor, Gamer, Comic, Corporate Nerd
 
   
Made in us
Furious Raptor




Fort Worth, TX

davethepak wrote:I get them at walmart in the DFW area, and often they have the three layers are described (the bottom layer is about 1" of pluck
foam).

Several of my gaming friends use these cases and they are awesome.

Also, as a note, the GW trays fit nicely in them, with just a bit of room around the edges. I am out of town right now, but will try and post up some pics when I get home over the weekend.


Which Wal-Marts in the DFW area? I've checked Lewisville, one off of Beach in Fort Worth, and another off of Rufe Snow in NRH and none have had them. Maybe I need to check Azle or Lake Worth or something.

I'll be checking the Academy off of N. Tarrant in Watauga during a packing trip to the house we are moving to.

I out with in both 40k and WHFB.
Co-host of the HittingOn3s Podcast
 
   
Made in nl
Trustworthy Shas'vre




DFW area Texas - Rarely

I had got them at the wal mart in plano near Coit and GB, and at academy off I75 near / plano and allen.

They are sometimes seasonal - meaning look in the fall when hunting season starts.

They show up now and then. Have about five of them between my best friend and I.

I will keep an eye out this weekend if I run by the store.


DavePak
"Remember, in life, the only thing you absolutely control is your own attitude - do not squander that power."
Fully Painted armies:
TAU: 10k Nids: 9600 Marines: 4000 Crons: 7600
Actor, Gamer, Comic, Corporate Nerd
 
   
Made in us
Furious Raptor




Fort Worth, TX

I am curious what causes some of the ones that are shipped to have the pick and pull foam layer and the others to not have them.

I out with in both 40k and WHFB.
Co-host of the HittingOn3s Podcast
 
   
Made in us
Furious Raptor




Fort Worth, TX

I went by the Academy off of N. Tarrant yesterday. They had one black case and 6 or 7 pink cases. The black case had the thin layer of foam and all of the pink cases had the pick n pull foam.

I bought one of the pink ones. Now, I just have to convince my wife to play my necron army..."Hey, look! Your army has a fresh, fancy case!". I doubt it will work.

I out with in both 40k and WHFB.
Co-host of the HittingOn3s Podcast
 
   
Made in us
Jealous that Horus is Warmaster






Thank you



 
   
Made in us
Trollkin Champion





Grand Rapids, MI

Its been about 6 months since I made my case, and its working great. The only thing i've had a problem with is the spray adhesive is still tacky and sometimes get on the bottom of the bases of my models.

Any suggestions to avoid this in the future?
   
Made in us
Veteran Inquisitorial Tyranid Xenokiller






The Peripheral

I'm so doing this. I treat my army like crap even though I spent so much time painting it, only because I don't want to shell out a wad of money for a ridiculously overpriced case. Thank you for the advice.

 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

Steak wrote:Its been about 6 months since I made my case, and its working great. The only thing i've had a problem with is the spray adhesive is still tacky and sometimes get on the bottom of the bases of my models.

Any suggestions to avoid this in the future?

I've switched entirely over to other adhesives, specifically pliobond. I'm still searching for a less stinky glue, but pliobond doesn't stay tacky. Spray adhesive just isn't reliable enough for me.

For the cases that are still tacky, 25mm rounds of paper stuck to the bottom of the model slots might be a workable solution.


DemetriDominov wrote:I'm so doing this. I treat my army like crap even though I spent so much time painting it, only because I don't want to shell out a wad of money for a ridiculously overpriced case. Thank you for the advice.

Happy to be of help.

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
http://chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/


My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
 
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