Switch Theme:

Washes & Glazes....whats the difference? (old school Citadel Colour stuff)  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Privateer





The paint dungeon, Arizona

So, after not painting for a few years, I spent today re-hydrating my vallejo's, and some of my old Citadel colour pop-tops.

While digging through hte drawer I found some old washes and glazes.

And, me being too lazy to experiement- I was wondering if anyone knows what the difference between a wash and a glaze?

I figure a glaze dries with some gloss, but Im not sure....and the stuff is older than some of the kids playing these days- so it may not even work right anymore.
   
Made in ca
Poxed Plague Monk




Brandon MB

A glaze is exactly that. It was used to basically make a flat color appear shiny. (For giving vehicles a more metallic look I guess ) I don't think it got too popular since people could simply purchase a laquer or spray to do the same thing for cheaper.
Thats what my uncle tells me anyway

!
Check out my artz :
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/274459.page
---
Looking for DnD, Warhammer or whatever character art or portraits? I'm open for commissions!

2win-1tie-1loss 
   
Made in us
Privateer





The paint dungeon, Arizona

Ya, these bottles are at least 15 years old, but still usable, jsut trying to save having to sdtrip some figs if I test them lol
   
Made in us
Jinking Ravenwing Land Speeder Pilot





San Diego, CA USA

Glaze is formulated to put color on uniformly. To colorize as a colored clear.

Wash is designed to pool in order to increase contrast but without the glossy finish inks leave.

Glaze acts a lot like matte medium but with additives like flow aid included. It is

 
   
Made in us
Privateer





The paint dungeon, Arizona

So, in air brush lingo, a glaze is like clear candy coat? That might be pretty useful actually...
   
Made in us
Jinking Ravenwing Land Speeder Pilot





San Diego, CA USA

Candy YES! That's what I use it for. Haven't tried squirting through the airbrush so if you go into testing please post what ratios you find to work best. Unless I beat you to it But I do use liquitex glaze medium. Vallejo glaze seems to dry a little chalky when the ratio is heavy on the glaze side.


 
   
Made in us
Privateer





The paint dungeon, Arizona

Are you using the Vallejo 'Air' glaze, or the Model/Game color glaze?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
And honestly- not sure if I wanna shoot this stuff through my AB. Its old, like when my freinds aquired it- they were working at GW's warehouse in Maryland 1995. This stuff was in a box that was considerd out of date even then.

I will amusingly note however-I still have, and use almost 2 dozen colors from that same batch.

But, even then, its still probly a bit too lumpy to spray without serious straining(and Im likely too lazy for that).

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/07/06 20:29:35


 
   
Made in us
Jinking Ravenwing Land Speeder Pilot





San Diego, CA USA

I've only tried the glaze from my VGC and VMC line.. have yet to buy the Air colors although it's a pretty sexy deal with the airbrush they include. But paint on I use all liquitex additives. And if you go to their site they have good explanations as to what each additive does.

You should get the strainer funnels from MicroMark. They are all kinds of rad. NO MORE CHUNKS! ahhh!

 
   
Made in us
Privateer





The paint dungeon, Arizona

Using the glaze from a brush-delivery intended application may have been the cause of the problem. Trapped air in opaque colrs isnt an issue- but for transparent stuff it is

I just got a steal of VAC on ebay, liker 75 bottles for 68$

Nice having prethinned paint to spray- but in hte future I'll stick with traditional paints and thin them down when I need them. The air stuff doesnt brush on very well, so it lacks versatility.

And most of my additives are liquitex too, easily available at art supply places
   
Made in us
Jinking Ravenwing Land Speeder Pilot





San Diego, CA USA

I agree. You can thin down heavy body paint to be able to spray so yeah, now that you brought that to light, scratch the model air idea heh.

75 for $68?!?! Empty droppers? Sweet! Actually if you got them at thewarstore.com it would be about the same. But last I checked the 12 pack of bottles were out-of-stock BOOO. So very good deal you got there

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/07/06 21:16:20


 
   
Made in us
Privateer





The paint dungeon, Arizona

Yep, even pre-thinned its alot of paint to go through. Now I just have the added benefit of having spare paint to practice with so I can free up some dropper bottles when I need them
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: