Switch Theme:

Quick and Easy Painting with Washes - updated edition!  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in au
[MOD]
Making Stuff






Under the couch

A little tutorial that I put together for the Maelstrom's Edge Comm Guild Blog, so using MEdge minis as a base, but the technique is easily applied to whichever miniatures you like...







- by Iain Wilson



Not everyone has the time to spend paintstakingly blending, shading and detailing their models. Sometimes, you just want to get them on the table quickly, so I thought it might be useful to explore some options for fast and painless army painting.



My guinea pigs for this article are some Epirian Suppression Team models, painted exclusively with washes! This is a really easy technique to get to grips with, and while it won't get you an award-winning work of art, it does give you perfectly serviceable-looking models that look great on the table.












For those unfamiliar with them, washes are thin paints designed to sink into the model's crevices whilst leaving less colour on the raised detail (Also sometimes called 'inks' - Not to be confused with 'glazes' which are translucent paints that tint the surface they're painted onto evenly). So while it's a little less precise than blended highlighting or 'juicing' (applying super-thin coats of increasingly dark colour to build up shadow or colour transition), we can use washes over a pale base colour to highlight and shade a model all in one fell swoop. There are a wide range of different washes or inks available, but for this article I'm using Army Painter Quickshades.



I start by giving the model a base coat of white.









Now I'm going to start applying washes to build up the colours I want, leaving the model to fully dry between each. On this model, I've started with a coat of Soft Tone over everything except for the weapons. This is pale enough that other colours will go ok over the top - if you're using darker tones, it's best to try to keep them strictly on the areas where you want them, otherwise you'll need to touch up your basecoat to cover up the overspill before painting each part of the model. Apply a generous coat of wash and leave it to thoroughly dry before moving on to the next step.









Next, I've gone over the armour and chaps with Green Tone, and picked out the boots, belt, kneepads and weapons with Dark Tone. If the colour is lighter than you would like, you can let it dry and then add another coat, as I did with the Dark Tone - this isn't a particularly strong wash, so several coats were needed to get the weapons as dark as I wanted them. You can speed this process up by painting parts that you want to be really 'black' with a medium grey colour before using the wash, but for this article I just stuck with the wash by itself.









I left the tip and front facing of the Shock Baton free of the black wash, as once the black wash dried I applied a coat of Blue Tone to those, which gives a nice energy-glow effect over the white. I also went over the exposed skin areas with Flesh Tone. At this point, I also stuck some sand to the base with PVA glue, washing it with a coat of Strong Tone once the glue dried. Then, to finish up, a quick coat of black around the base edge - you could skip this step by masking off the base edge with tape before painting and then just peeling the tape off at the end.









You can vary the look of the washes by using different base coats. The model below was painted using the exact same process as above, but over a bone basecoat instead of the white.









If you prefer a little more detail, you can go over the washed model with regular paint, picking out features like eyes, belt buckles and the like, and of course you can use different wash colours to suit your preferred colour scheme.












Why not give it a go? As always, feel free to share efforts, or ask any Maelstrom's Edge- or hobby-related questions on the Comm Guild Facebook page!



You can pick up the Epirian Suppression Team, along with the rest of the Maelstrom's Edge model range from the webstore here.



For other Maelstrom's Edge modeling articles, including tutorials and walkthroughs of a wide range of different building and miniature projects, check out the Hobby section of the Maelstrom's Edge website here.


This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/05/14 22:36:06


 
   
Made in gb
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!




United Kingdom

Like you said, not going to win any awards, but does that matter? This needs to be linked to every newbie painter who needs some help.
   
Made in gb
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God






Inside your mind, corrupting the pathways

Washes are my go to painting method for massed of models like zombies or troops. I often water down regular paints as well for a wider range of colours amd stronger tones.

   
Made in gb
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!




United Kingdom

 SilverMK2 wrote:
Washes are my go to painting method for massed of models like zombies or troops. I often water down regular paints as well for a wider range of colours amd stronger tones.


It really depends. For my Eldar forces I would never do this, because they deserve the time taken over them. For my daemonettes and my guardsmen, yeah, I would just do this.
   
Made in gb
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God






Inside your mind, corrupting the pathways

 Dannyrulx wrote:
 SilverMK2 wrote:
Washes are my go to painting method for massed of models like zombies or troops. I often water down regular paints as well for a wider range of colours amd stronger tones.


It really depends. For my Eldar forces I would never do this, because they deserve the time taken over them. For my daemonettes and my guardsmen, yeah, I would just do this.


My Eldar were all painted primarily with washes.






   
Made in gb
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!




United Kingdom

explains why they look so bad

And sure, they look fine, but Eldar are full of little details, and that's why I normally take a long time over the models. They're simple, but complicated.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/10/24 09:39:48


 
   
Made in my
Veteran Knight Baron in a Crusader






At my desk

This is somewhat similar to how I paint my Sylvaneth, though I add a drybrush because I find that doing a grey with only washes looks too flat.

On those Eldar, I like the banshees a lot, the guardians look good enough for massed infantry squads.

Definitely a good tutorial for people with blob armies.

3000pts Blood Angels (4th Company) - 2000pts Skitarii (Voss Prime) - 2500pts Imperial Knights (Unnamed House) - 1000pts Imperial Guard (Household Retainers)

2000pts Free Peoples (Edlynd Fusiliers) - 2000pts Kharadron Overlords (Barak Zilfin) - 500pts Ironweld Arsenal (Edlynd Ironwork Federation) - 1000pts Duardin (Grongrok Powderheads)

Wargaming's no fun when you have a plan! 
   
Made in us
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker





Norfolk, VA

I'm curious about the time difference between this and a base coat with a wash coat. I have many boyz that need painting and am always looking for tips on how to paint them fasta!

2700 - The Fierce Eye's Hammer
2000 - Grukk's Wrekkin Krew
1850-Hellcrusha's Fist 
   
Made in au
[MOD]
Making Stuff






Under the couch

I have just updated the original tutorial with some updated pics, so everything looks a little clearer than my original version...

 
   
Made in us
Incorporating Wet-Blending






Nice -- I sometimes use colored primers with washes on some areas of the model. Essentially, it acts like a primer, basecoat, and wash.

Here're some miniatures from Pinnacle Entertainment Game's The Goon RPG. I did the faces conventionally, but left model's clothing only needed a color primer and a wash. The right I started with a purple wash, then painted conventionally with highlights. Guess which one took more work.

I use Army Painter washes (and recommend Secret Weapon Stone wash for underground stone). Colored primers are often found in larger sizes, so are less expensive per ounce than GW and Scale 75 contrast paints.

Spoiler:


This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/05/14 23:01:44


Crimson Scales and Wildspire Miniatures thread on Reaper! : https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/103935-wildspire-miniatures-thread/ 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling Tutorials
Go to: