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Made in us
Drop Trooper with Demo Charge





About 6 months ago I switched from my previous army (necrons) to a space marine army, specifically imperial fists. I have about 2200 pts in various stages of painting and kinda hit a wall with painting. About the time that happened the Militarum Tempestus and Astra Militarum were released and updated. My plan was to put about 1000 points into AM and the bare minimum into MT and use allies to blend the three armies together. Not wanting to repeat my imperial fists faux pas, I decided not to field anything until it's fully painted.

So here it is, the start of the Astra Militarum.

Veteran Squad
The vets in the first picture are done, just the base needs attention, in the second picture they need cleaned up highlighted and based.
Spoiler:






Cadian Command Squad
Same as the vets, need cleaned up, highlighted and based.
Spoiler:




I'll update once their finished. Up next I have Yarrick, 15 scions and a taurox prime.

   
Made in my
Regular Dakkanaut





Nice to see more IG/AM players coming about these days. Before I say anything, would you like some constructive criticism? I can share some thoughts and tricks which may or may not help you. It'll be a somewhat lengthy read but I don't mind taking the time to write it if you'd want.
   
Made in us
Drop Trooper with Demo Charge





Absolutely.

   
Made in my
Regular Dakkanaut





Sorry for the late reply, I'll post a write up soon in your thread.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Ok, lets see here.

1. Uniform -
a. Colours are fine though I believe the highlights are a little thick. I would recommend using a smaller (detail-fine detail) brush to finish off the model with what appears to be usbati bone.

b. Alternatively, you could use a a large drybrush to put a VERY light drybrush (little to no paint on the brush) of usbati bone on the model. I would consider this more dusting the model than actually drybrushing.

c. In my steel legion pictures (in gallery) I have used an intermediary colour of Vallejo model colour Dessert yellow. This is followed with the final usbati bone later painted on. The only effect is that the uniform will be a little lighter than normal.

d. The steps I used to do khaki uniforms are
1. Basecoat of zanri dust,
2. Agrax earthshade wash
3. Zanri dust layer highlight
4. Vallejo dessert yellow highlight
5. Usbati bone highlight

2. Armour -
a. The armour colours are fine but I'd again recommend trimming down the final highlight tone with the last highlight colour you used to paint the armour. Also, a drybrush highlight might actually be better for the gun/armour/shoulder pads as it gives a good result with minimal effort.

b. The only crucial area to apply this are the gaiters (repaint previous colour). I think the rest of the armour looks nice and fine.

3. Metals
a. Metals are fine, if you want, you could try using gray instead of metallic colours and attempt a NMM scheme. I cannot give any advice on NMM since I rarely use it myself and only understand the basic techniques so far.

4. Browns
a. Same comment as the gaiters.

5. Flesh
a. The flesh could definitely be improved. If you take a look at any warhammer visions magazines, it usually tells you to start with base, wash, base, highlight and highlight. I recommend getting a copy with fleshtones covered because I found the tutorials they provide simple enough to employ and produces decent-above average results. While it certainly isn't the Golden demon standard of how you paint flesh, it gets the job done and gives you a good end miniature (which for guard is more crucial than you think due to the mass of T3 W1 models you need to have)

b. What I use
1. Bugman's glow
2. Reikhland (or however you spell it) wash
3. Bugman's glow
4. Cadian fleshtone
5. Super fine highlight of kislev flesh

b. The basecoat should cover the whole face and washes should be applied with a small brush to go over individual areas (much like how you would normally paint a layer) rather than "dip" style.

General painting styles and extras.
a. While I do not know what style you use to paint, I can only describe what I usually do during my paint runs.

b. Use baking paper above a wet sponge as your palette, the baking paper will allow water to seep from the top of the wet sponge which would allow the paint to remain on the palette for much longer than normal. I highly recommend this because GW paints tend to dry fast so this extra tip reduces paint wastage.

c. With edge highlighting, you can either use a finer brush, drybrush parts or repeatedly "sharpen your brush" with water to get a finer results on your miniature.

Well, that's about it for now. If you want to ask me any questions or specific stuff I wouldn't mind giving advice from personal experience. I don't claim to be a great or even good painter but I am happy with the models I produce. If you want to have a look, I have recently finished some models http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/606165.page

Also, if anyone wants to point out/highlight stuff that is not efficient/ plain wrong with my advice, don't hesitate to do so. I would also like to learn more techniques so it would be a good experience for all involved.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/07/25 08:21:00


 
   
 
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