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Made in us
Drop Trooper with Demo Charge




Still in reserve.

So I picked up the plastic kit of everyone's favorite blunder-buss weilding bastards but found out to my complete and utter frustration that these guys just won't hold together.

After cleaning these guys up (For the price I'm surprised there was a knob on each and every single shoulderpad) I set about using P3 superglue. I know using too much of the stuff pretty much negates its stickyness so I kept it at a nice medium. The plastic WG were a complete bitch to put together (For a while I was convinced the only adhesive ability superglue had was the vacuum I could create by holding the bits together) but I managed to cobble my squad together.

However, 4 of them just won't stay together. After leaving them for half a day I went back and poked their arms. Nothing harsh or something my GW plastics couldn't hold up to. 9 of them were neatly fused but the arms came clean off the other 4. I tried re-gluing with the additional use Army Painter's "Magic Superglue Activator" (Which I used on a few of the other guys that stayed assembled) but these guys refuse to stay together. I'm going to have to scrape out the layer of glue that's pretty much filled their arm sockets (To say I got a little frustrated would be an understatement) before I try anything else.

My current plan is buying greenstuff and using that (After reading some tutorials; I've never used it before but I have a general idea of how it works).

But I was wondering if there was another way. So many of the WG went together so well I don't know why almost a fourth of them just didn't turn out, even after a second attempt. Is P3 useless? Was I supposed to scrub them before assembly? It's also humid as all hell outside; does that have any affect?
   
Made in ca
Mutilatin' Mad Dok





CRASSUS ARMOURED ASSAULT TRANSPORT!

I feel your pain on those weird pauldron-knobs. And I don't know about p3, but I prefer using Army Painter super glue or Zap-a-Gap (Zap-a-Gap dries almost instantly so you need to be ready)

You shouldn't have to scrub plastic models, are the ones that are failing the ones with both hands on the blunderbuss or the ones with a axe and a gun?

DR:90S++G++M++B-I++Pwmhd13#++D+A++++/fWD303R+++T(F)DM+

 Atma01 wrote:

And that is why you hear people yelling FOR THE EMPEROR rather than FOR LOGICAL AND QUANTIFIABLE BASED DECISIONS FOR THE BETTERMENT OF THE MAJORITY!

 
   
Made in us
Praetorian



Washington

I would suggest using Zap-A-Gap medium CA+. I've had zero issues with any of my Warmahordes plastics or metals.

Warmachine player in western Washington? Join us! https://discord.gg/CMQb3VhFCY 
   
Made in au
[MOD]
Not as Good as a Minion






Brisbane

medikant wrote:
I would suggest using Zap-A-Gap medium CA+. I've had zero issues with any of my Warmahordes plastics or metals.


I can second this exact glue, in my experience with WM/H plastics and metals it does a pretty damn good job. This includes the plastic winterguard box that you are working with.

I wish I had time for all the game systems I own, let alone want to own... 
   
Made in us
Discriminating Deathmark Assassin




Roswell, GA

You can get those little clip arms with the magnifying glass. Glue it and let it hold it together for a long tim to make sure.



This is the best glue I have ever used. http://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-gap-filling-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QP/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1409461797&sr=8-9&keywords=Model+glue

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/08/31 05:12:11


 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




I'd suggest old school page 5. Plastic is for wimps! Buy the metal models

But seriously, scrub with an old toothbrush and water with sone detergent in it. If there is any release agent on the plastic, that will clear it. If all fails, do a bit of pinning. I've never had issues using lok-tite or gale force 9 super glue either.

greatest band in the universe: machine supremacy

"Punch your fist in the air and hold your Gameboy aloft like the warrior you are" 
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Biloxi, MS USA

Ugh, I hate the GF9 glue, it takes forever to set and never wants to actually hold. I threw away a 3/4 full bottle because it was utterly useless.

You know you're really doing something when you can make strangers hate you over the Internet. - Mauleed
Just remember folks. Panic. Panic all the time. It's the only way to survive, other than just being mindful, of course-but geez, that's so friggin' boring. - Aegis Grimm
Hallowed is the All Pie
The Before Times: A Place That Celebrates The World That Was 
   
Made in us
Wraith






Salem, MA

Go with an actual non-hobby Super Glue (they're tested better/developed better IMO).

Though I can't say I've ever had this problem with plastic models before. Maybe let them set overnight? Or see if they aren't making full surface contact.


No wargames these days, more DM/Painting.

I paint things occasionally. Some things you may even like! 
   
Made in us
Satyxis Raider






Seattle, WA

I use gorilla super glue.

Also might want to do a minor pin to hold it.
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Florida

I cried cleaning up my Winterguard. Absolutely dreadful models. Mold lines through the face of the Rifle Corps too!

I actually started using Gorilla super glue, and was really surprised at how well it works... on everything. Zap-a-gap is nice if you can just pop off to the store and pick some up though.

\m/ 
   
Made in us
Enigmatic Chaos Sorcerer




Tampa, FL

I use gorilla super glue and find it works great. Also I'll second the absolutely horrible molding on the Winter Guard. After nearly gouging ones face trying to remove mold lines I said feth it and just assembled them. Decent sculpts, terrible casting.

- Wayne
Formerly WayneTheGame 
   
Made in us
Veteran Wolf Guard Squad Leader




San Diego, CA

I use zap a gap and loctite with no issues. I also recently assembled both the rifle corps and the infantry box. A couple issues with using the wrong arms on blunderbuss and rocket guys so with some quick scalpel work and glue I forced it to fit--because of doing this will need to green stuff it, but I didnt have an issue with glue just with the poses and wierd casting.

 
   
Made in us
Androgynous Daemon Prince of Slaanesh





Norwalk, Connecticut

You're in the US? Good. Go to Walmart, go to adhesive section (in painting) and get the 4-pack of super glue that comes in a yellow and black package. Costs $1.50 or something like that. I bought the same kit and had no issues. In fact, I use this glue for everything. My Drago model even suffered a two foot fall and only suffered a bent axe when using this stuff. Not even pinned.

Reality is a nice place to visit, but I'd hate to live there.

Manchu wrote:I'm a Catholic. We eat our God.


Due to work, I can usually only ship any sales or trades out on Saturday morning. Please trade/purchase with this in mind.  
   
Made in us
Serious Squig Herder






I use Loctite super glue (I like the control gel) - never had any problems holding any stuff together.

But you could also try scoring the surfaces with your hobby knife before you glue them. The arms/sockets might be a little warped too (i.e. they aren't making good contact) in which case your green stuff plan should help.
   
 
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