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In this tutorial we show you how to replicate your custom bits that you have created. To create the mold we used Oyumaru or you can use Insta-mold. For our resin we used Alumilite Resin but any two part resin will work. Thanks for watching!
Great tutorial that combines all the best tips and tricks for Oyumaru into one process. Great stuff. I especially like the splashing on of more hot water into the mould box.
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
The main strength of this mould material is that it's very, very reusable. It's just a rubbery plastic that you partially melt. Silicone is superior except that it is not reusable. I've been impressed with how well Oyumaru (or instamold) works and I tend to pull it out before silicone unless I know I'm going to be making tons of something.
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
Ok, so update,
There is a problem with air bubbles on the bottom of where you float the instamold. so be wary.
It holds the detail of faces great, and now to see if it can cast thm w/ greenstuff
hotsauceman1 wrote: Ok, so update,
There is a problem with air bubbles on the bottom of where you float the instamold. so be wary.
It holds the detail of faces great, and now to see if it can cast thm w/ greenstuff
What do you mean "float the instamold"? Where are you getting air bubbles? What should we be wary of?
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
I get what you're saying now. I think it also might be a matter of the water being a bit too hot. Like how air bubbles form when you boil water and it's almost at boiling.
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
I can confirm that smooth-on totally rocks. It's the first time I ever tried anything related to casting and even my very first two moulds are a success. Their silicone is ace (Oomoo 30), it picks up all details and is soft enought to bend when you try to remove the bits you have made. The polyurethane smooth-cast 300 series is also very fine. Just be carefull during mould design (bits arrangement, propper use of mould release spray and the like) and you are pretty much set. I recomend anyone who wants to give it a try to get their starter kit (contains silicone, polyurethane, mould seal and mould release spray) and some extra volume of silicone for those who want to make more than just 2-3 moulds.
That Oyumaru looks good for small production runs but I've never handled it and have no experience how many times you can cast with it.
I've used both smooth on & oyumaru & still use both for my projects. I find that using liquid greenstuff with oyumaru as the detail catching layer works really well then add your greenstuff on top of that to fill in the volume of the piece.
I've been using instant mold for molding the helms i've been using for my dark eldar. I've been using green stuff to do and generally they come out great, there is flash but nothing too bad once you get the hang of using the correct amount of green stuff.
How did you pour the resin in this video without running into dealing with bubbles and such?
There are a few different techniques for resin pouring to reduce bubbles with the easiest one being to use a very runny resin. The more free flowing the mixture is (while still being in the range of curing time, strength and ease of use) the easier it is to get no bubbles.
Another method is to bottom stream pour where you punch a hole in the buttom of the cup and let the resin pour through there. The bubbles are most likely to be in the top half of the cup and if you put the mould on the floor you can get a very thin stream which will also remove the bubbles.
Then there is shifting, tapping and otherwise tilting the mould without spilling. Agitation can reduce bubbles. Some people build vibrating pouring surfaces by attaching an electric sander to a board.
There are probaly a hundred other tricks as well.
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
I like Smooth-on's products. They have a distributor in Burnaby. Failing that, there's Viking Plastics in Edmonton. Smoothcast 300 (or 310 or whatever) is good, but pricey.
No idea if this plastic world place is any good or not.
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
No, they are cured differently and the mould silicone is way thinner. There are some tricks you can do to cure silicone caulk and use it as a moulding rubber, but it is inconsistent in results and hard to work with. I've used it for rough terrain like rubble and others things where it's okay if it's not precise, but I'd never use it for parts on a miniature.
I think that loctite stuff is either a putty or a thick gloopy liquid.
If you have the right sort of ventilation, people use polyester based resins which are used in autobody repair. Ventilation is super, super important if you work with that sort of stuff though.
Does Michael's craft store have a location where you are? They often carry different casting silicones and resins and regularly have 40% off one item coupons. If you're looking to pour moulds, I'd stay away from their silicone putty products. A friend of mine got them and they just don't work as good as the liquid ones.
Either way, youtube is your friend for a lot of this stuff.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/02/23 19:34:25
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
Find out if there's a brush on version of the release agent. I think the issue with shipping is that it's a spray can.
Balance in pick up games? Two people, each with their own goals for the game, design half a board game on their own without knowing the layout of the board and hope it all works out. Good luck with that. The faster you can find like minded individuals who want the same things from the game as you, the better.
Back in the old days we mixed petroleum jelly with mineral spirits to act as a brush on release agent. It's not pretty, but it works. Just be sure that the petroleum jelly is really thinned down or you will have streaks in the second half of the mold.
Ive looked online and for us brits all the resins and slicones are like 50 pounds so thats about 80 dollars can you lot point me in the right direction.