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How to make an amazing base using cork board and the new Martian Ironearth technical paint!  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in us
Roarin' Runtherd





Mississippi

I was watching a video review of the new GW technical paint Martian Ironearth (here after referred to as MI) and I really liked the way it looked for basing, so I decided to give it a try. However, I really enjoy the look of torn cork board on my bases as well, and I was worried that such a porous material wouldn't work well with the paint. After some experimenting, and getting several varying results, I think I have stumbled upon the right combination for a MI/cork basing combo.



Step One: Cork prep.

First, I cut the cork to fit the size of my base, and super glued it down. I usually leave a little extra around the edges because I like to tear the edges by hand, giving the edges a random, natural looking pattern.

Once the glue dried, i used Krylon Matte Finish (http://www.krylon.com/products/matte-finish/) to seal the cork.



This helps put a layer between the cork and paint to keep the cork from absorbing the Quick Dry chemical in the MI that creates the crackle effect. (Experimental Failure #1). *shout out to TheLordOnHigh for this little nugget of info.

Next, I base coated the cork with a spray black primer. This adds another seal to the cork, and also, depending on how much your MI actually cracks, it can give some depth between the cracks.



Now your cork is ready for the MI.

Step Two: Adding the MI.

The next step is as simple as applying the MI to the cork itself.
You actually have to be pretty liberal with how much you use on the base. Using too little paint ends with no cracks, and just red cork.
From my experience, the more MI you use in an area, the larger the cracked pieces...just don't go crazy, or it will just sit there and dry into a blob.



The paint takes anywhere from 45 minutes to 1.5 hours to dry (depending on the amount of paint you use).



The results look amazing in my opinion.



Step Three: Sealing it all in.

For the last step, wait for the MI to completely dry, and spray it one last time with the Matte Finish spray. This helps seal the crackles to the base. On a side note, I tried using PVA, as well as a paint-on matte sealant, and they worked...technically...they just kind of re-moistened the cracks, and left the whole thing a little to shiney for my liking (even the matte paint-on came out shiney...Experimental Failure #2).

Your final results look like this:



To sum it all up, with a little forethought, the cork and MI is a simple process that takes very little time to complete, and looks absolutely amazing in my opinion. Thanks for reading guys, and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






That's sexy.

Edit: I'ma try that tonight.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/04/27 15:47:23


My mostly terrain and Sons of Orar blog:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/568699.page#6349942
 whalemusic360 wrote:
Alph, I expect like 90 sets of orange/blue from you.
 
   
Made in us
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IL

Great tutorial. Simple, quick, and looks great. Nice job man

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Made in us
Roarin' Runtherd





Mississippi

Thanks guys. This was my first tutorial. If I come up with any more cool ideas, I'll make some tutorials for them as well. I'm glad you liked it. Let me know how yours turn it if you decide to make these bases...maybe even post a picture of how they turn out so others can see the results.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/04/28 14:27:51


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





thanks for that, i will use it

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/491183.page
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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Picked up two pots today. I'm excited for this.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/04/28 18:40:53


My mostly terrain and Sons of Orar blog:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/568699.page#6349942
 whalemusic360 wrote:
Alph, I expect like 90 sets of orange/blue from you.
 
   
Made in ca
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Canada

Nice, like riverbed dried clay.

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avoiding the lorax on Crion

It works not too bad with slate, the right textures and bits can complement nicely.

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Made in gb
Snivelling Workbot




UK

That looks amazing! May have to try that!
   
Made in gb
Newbie Black Templar Neophyte




England

That looks good! Could you add another layer of paint or dry brush for those wanting the effect but not on Mars?

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Fort Worth, TX

You can buy generic crackle paint at a hobby store and mix in your own color to it to get what you want. No need to spend so much on the GW version.

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Made in cz
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Czech Republic

Nice. Simple but good looking and efficient.

   
Made in se
Devastating Dark Reaper






Really nice base! How do you get a miniature to stick to it (strong enough to sustain normal use), I assume you can't just glue it on?
   
Made in gb
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Oxfordshire, UK

Looks good. Congrats on your first tutorial.

you mentioned that a previous trial came out too shiney. "testors dullcote" is the awesomest matte varnish. I wager that it would fix this problem.
   
Made in sg
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Lost in the Warp

With all the matt finish spray, are you seeing any issues with paint rubbing off easily? Or having issues gluing your model down to the base? I presume you'd need to pin them all.

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Made in us
Roarin' Runtherd





Mississippi

I just use super glue and glue them straight to the base. It's seemed to work pretty well so far.
   
Made in gr
Basecoated Black





Athens, Greece

Another tool to our toolbox. I'll definitely use it. Thanks

You can always visit my blog - http://greekminiatures.blogspot.com - Epic miniatures, terrain, tutorials
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