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Hi I just starterd warmachine as a retribution player.

Now i'm wondering always worked whit Gw paints but now I wanne follow the paint shema from the book of retri.

And I whas wondering whats the qaulity of the paint of pp like?

Many thanks

I have the whole range.

Personal opinion: they're excellent, well worth buying.

Deadnight wrote:
I have the whole range.

Personal opinion: they're excellent, well worth buying.

Need to water them down hard ? or just a drip from paint brush ?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
And what undercoat you use?

bieren wrote:

Deadnight wrote:
I have the whole range.

Personal opinion: they're excellent, well worth buying.

Need to water them down hard ? or just a drip from paint brush ?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
And what undercoat you use?

Generally just a drip. It's thicker so You tend to be able to get away with one coat.

Undercoat: army painter white undercoat.

i have the whole range, too, and use it almost exclusively...
the inks and washes, too...
P3 primer is excellent, if you can get it...

i don't water my paint down much...
just a dip of the brush in the paint lid, and then a tiny dip into a drop of water on my palette...

the metals need to be shaken a lot more than the matte colors...
i mean A LOT...

the lighter colors you will be using for Retribution are much nicer to work with than the light tones of all the other brands i have tried, and P3 white primer goes on really smooth...

good luck!!!

cheers
jah

For the ret scheme, you are going to need to thin in order to get smooth white. I have tried it several times, finally working on air brushing it this weekend for the smooth transitions. I painted cygnar scheme nearly straight out of the bottle.

I also advise mixing you green color (if you are doing straight ret scheme) in a large quantity in a separate bottle so the color is consistent across models.

Good luck and share your results.

They're a little thick, I've had the caps crack, and the primer's very nice but (as with most mini primers) overpriced.

In the 30 years I've been painting miniatures, I have never come across paints that you wouldn't add water to. To get any kind of quality paint job, you should always add water and use 2-3 coats on an area to get a smooth look.

P3 paints are very good - right now I alternate between Master Reaper and P3. I like that P3 paints have some different colors than your typical paint lines and they go well with similar gradients ie Cryx bane base blends well into cryx bane highlight which blends well into thrall flesh.

They also have good quality yellows, oranges, and whites which not all paint lines do.

Yeah, I've got plenty of experience, and yes, I dilute everything. PP's paint still is thicker than I'd prefer, and I don't like cap-style. Normally caps dry out quicker and the back hinge is prone to breaking. In PP's case, the the caps also split.

A note on going from GW paints to P3 paints would be that P3 paints are made to dry slower than GW's. This is due to the differencing painting philosophies where P3 pushes the wet blending and GW emphasizes layers of color.

Also I've seen some pretty crappy results from P3 spray primer. Army Painter spray primers are my gold standard.

 AduroT wrote:
Also I've seen some pretty crappy results from P3 spray primer. Army Painter spray primers are my gold standard.

Spray primer is incredibly sensitive to changes in the environment and the surface you are spraying it on.

Cold primer spraying on a warm model or when it's humid? You get fuzz.

Spraying on a model that wasn't rinsed off in some soap and water? The primer won't stick and flakes off.

Warm primer on a cold model? The primer "runs" and gives an uneven coat.

Warm primer and spraying outside on a cold day? Primer freezes before hitting the model and won't stick.

Priming on a really hot, summer day (no humidity)? Primer dries before hitting model and won't stick.

Fail to shake the can of primer before shooting? Nothing but air, then splatter "blobs" of primer.

Basically, you have to control the conditions of spraying with a primer as much as possible and be consistent. Different primers react in various ways to changing environmental conditions. There is no "best" primer for all conditions, but primers that work best for certain conditions. Having several cans of different cans of primer is a bit impractical. You have to be mindful of the weather and temperature before priming, and you might not want to primer at all on a given day.

Another option is brush on primers. I had to use those extensively when I lived in Alaska. My advice for brush on primers? Stick to Vallejo or Reaper (I prefer Reaper). I can't recommend Gesso. Acrylic Gesso is this weird, plastic (acrylic) primer artists use on canvas for painting. For miniatures, it's finicky, difficult to use, and hard to get good coverage without obscuring some details (it's pretty thick stuff). It's cheap- I paid like $5 for 10oz of the stuff. Ruins brushes quickly (OMG! My poor $20 WN brush! ). Once it's on a model, it's ON the model and won't come off.

The third option is an airbrush primer, but that opens up a whole new can of worms.

And then there are the days where you can of primer does this;



Don't know what caused that, but it's one a costumer returned to the store. And I did PP replacement thing for it and they did replace it so kudos there.

 AduroT wrote:
And then there are the days where you can of primer does this;



Don't know what caused that, but it's one a costumer returned to the store. And I did PP replacement thing for it and they did replace it so kudos there.

What time of year was this? It looks an awful lot like what happens when I tried to primer outside when it was around 15 degrees F in Anchorage, AK.

There are directions on the side of the can of primer for a reason. When I follow those directions, I've never had any issues.

All that stuff I typed above? Personal experience and the Scientific Method FTW!

I don't remember when that one up there occurred,as it wasn't me that it happened to, but I think it's been a good while.

First up, welcome to the game!

Now, when it comes to paints? Use whatever you're most comfortable with. No paint is better or worse than another, they just do slightly different things.

My experiences with PP have been quite good. I find some of their paint a tad on the thin side for my taste (I prefer thicker paint I can thin as needed). They have an amazing range of browns and greens. Give them a shot, see what you think. The Retribution scheme can be quite difficult, but it's well worth the trouble if you can pull it off

Has anybody ever tried p3 paints through a airbrush? Was wondering how they work in a airbrush. Was thinking about airbrushing my Judy using p3 paints.

 Chute82 wrote:
Has anybody ever tried p3 paints through a airbrush? Was wondering how they work in a airbrush. Was thinking about airbrushing my Judy using p3 paints.

I used them in an AB some time ago, IIRC they went through pretty smoothly but the flip-top packing made it quite annoying to put the paint in the brush.

I only recommend P3 paints to advanced painters. If you want to use wet blending, they're excellent paints. They also perform very well in an airbrush. However, the coverage is not as good as citadel base paints and they have fewer shades, which means you'll have to do more mixing.

The exception to this statement would be their lighter shades. Thrall flesh, frostbite blue and underbelly blue are fantastic for mixing with other colors for highlights.