Latest posts for the thread "Baneblade kit info"

Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

I helped the staff in my local Gw store assemble the new Baneblade kit today. Sorry, no pictures.

There are eight sprues of bits, they are unlabelled on the sprue for the most part and somer pieces are dulplicated on the left and right sides, others you need specific left and right parts.

1. Track and side assembly.

This has been hammed up by GW. the sides of the tank assemblein a manner siimlair to most Gw plastic imperial tanks. you get Left and right hand parts each consiting of two sides with track assembly underneath and armour plates on top. While the box is big enough for the side plates to be single pieces for reasons best known to GW the inner and outer halves of the 'side of the tank are in two pieces. These are glued together initial;ly by a single line of pegs and holes in the middle of the sides. So unless you are very careful it is easy for the sides to skew inwards of outwards.

What is worse is that the road wheels glue to one or other sides, but not both together. you need to assemble the tracks and glue them to the road wheels to properly bridge the sides. although on the instruction sheet this is a different stage it pays to do this while asembling the side plates.

Also on the sides are the fuel barrels, two over each track assembly with thick 'corregated' hose linking them to the main chassis.

2. Chassis assembly.

Glues much like the chassis of any other Imperial tank between the assembled sides. However as the kit is so much bigger, and ther are more side pieces you need to assemble them all in short order in order to adjust them into position before they harden.

The viewports on the chassis are seperate and can be aded later, they have a gothic arch which looks very imperial but a little too ornate for thier tanks.

The rear of the tank has four exhausts partly reminiscent of church organs and a gothic arched shrine complete with ad mech iconography, a sword bearing angel (Dark Angel style) and the ubiquitous skulls. Above this over the engine cowling are details or turbines and engine parts that can be covered with seperate covers or left exposed.

The crew hatches are also seperate partsso they can be left ajar or open. Though doing so will allow you to look fully inside the tank, which has no interior structure or detail.

3. Sponson assembly.

The sponsons are very nice and can be positioned in one of three positions along the flank of the tank. The aft position makes the tank look like an early Epic version Baneblade, centered or forward. The twin linked heavy bolters can be replaced by twion linked heavy flamers. The lascannon and heavy bolter barrels are resonably scaled as per infantry weapons not the ghuge Leman Russ weapons.

The Sponso weaponry should freely rotate, but the way the internal mechanism is handled it might break and flop less if glued.

4. Turret assembly.

There are two command cupolas one very tall and rounded, the second similar to a normal Imperial tank commanders hatch. More on the commander later. There is a heavy stubber with the cupola, [b]no[/b] pintel autocannon or heavy bolter options.

Ther hatches are nicely detailed inside and out.

The main battlecannon can be replaced by a much a shorter barreled gun with a flanged dissipator with three large holes on each side. It doesnt look anything like as impressive and it would be difficult to swap out the barrles without a lot of pinning and puttying the back ends of the barrels to accept the pins. The battlecannon, while still an oversized GW gun is more in scale with other weapons and is not a 'bombard' for want of a better description as seen on a Russ.

The pintel mounted autocannon is the same size as infantry autocannon.

5. Front chassis assembly.

The demolisher cannon is mounted in a ball socket so that it can swivel. It might need to be glued as I suspect it will wobble or scrape the paintwork. The barrel end is a seperate piece and show the tubular arrangement of large calibre forgeworld barrels. The smoke dischargers are bigger and mounted on what looks to be miniturrets, though you have to glue them solidly.

6. Commanders.

Here is the good news. You get two commanders half out of the hatch showing the tops of the legs and torso. There is no head out of the hatch option. One is wearing a greatcoat (and can be a commissar) the other standard Cadian dress. There are four heads to choose from, an oddly shaped gas mask, that could be a heretic head, a crew cut head with microphone headset, a Cadian style helmet with extra electronics and a special visor, and a Commissar head with hat and bionic eye.

There is also a standing greatcoated bodywith the same breast decorations as the greatcoat/commissar commander. This will be popular with bitz purchases. To go with this are as assortment of arms, laspistol arm, bolt pistol arm, sword arm pointing arm and two arms holding the trigger system for a heavy weapon. all of which are for the greatcoated body. Presumably if you want a Cadian commander you use normal Cadian arm bits.

The shoulderpads are different and seperate. You get four, two with skulls two with IIRC laurels. You don't need either if you prefer your plastic commissar 'straight'. There are also some other bits, inclusing a toolbox, a large wrench and two shells for the main gun.

7. Overall feeling.

Ther miniature is skull lite compared to some. It overuses gothic arches. The armour plates however are festooned with rivets and have a slab armiour quality that express the size of the tank. Its an inch longer and slightly taller and wider than the Forgeworld kit. The price is steep and the kit is badly thought out for initial assembly, but it should be solid when built and I rather like it. I will be getting one, but not at £60.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Khaine1 — GMT

Something feels wrong with this review i am sorry but it feels like you dont WANT to like this tank.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

Not at all. Just being objective. People like the Land Speeder but also complain about how it doesnt fit together. The Baneblade does fit together, but thepieces are poorly ordered so assembly is fiddly.

I dont like the gothic arches though, great for a cathedral, not so great for a tank.

RE: Baneblade kit info

whitedragon — GMT

The local STL GW store has a baneblade. It looks very very nice in person, and looks ten times better than in photos.

I hated the photos when they came out, and vowed to buy a forgeworld kit, however, after seeing it in person, I'll have to say it looks like a very nice model. I would even venture to say that most people will be dissapointed they bought a forgeworld one, unless you bought a variant. (like the shadowsword).

RE: Baneblade kit info

Khaine1 — GMT

I dunno i would rather get 3 gw baneblades than get one forgeworld baneblade. As nice as a forgworld one is, its fiddly as heck too, each track and wheel assembly, the annoyingness of working with the resin, the health risks. No one is saying the gw baneblade is for new people into the hobby. Any time you get a large model it is assumed you are a experienced modeller and can handle doing things that are not snap together. Sorry but the whole, oh its not put together in your sleep doesnt really sit well with me. As far as gothicness , whatever thats a artistic sidepoint that can be changed if you really wanted to with some plasticard. Overall for the pricepoint i think it is a steal.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Drake_Marcus — GMT

That's a shame they didn't do an interior below the open hatch areas, but not too big of a deal. I'd still like to see the sprues in person before committing to it over a FW Stormsword or Lucius pattern.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Hellfury — GMT

[quote]Posted By Orlanth on 09/10/2007 1:40 PM

I dont like the gothic arches though, great for a cathedral, not so great for a tank.[/quote] But...but...its a cathedral of ...war!

RE: Baneblade kit info

Clang — GMT

on the whole gothic theme, I can see two obvious options for converters:
- gothic-haters will remove all the gothicy bits and replace them with nice sensible bits left over from Leman Russes and Chimeras etc, or just bits of plasticard with lots of rivets
- gothic-lovers will think it not nearly gothic enough and add heaps of gothicy bits (COD sprues in particular, i suspect) for that 'trundling cathedral' look
And either could look fabulous.

I also look forward to Chaos and Ork conversions. We'll definitely need a 'show us your baneblade conversions' thread soon

RE: Baneblade kit info

H.B.M.C. — GMT

According to the rules for the Baneblade in Apoc, it can have a second set of sponsons.

I see a Stormhammer conversion coming on. Now where can I source two Macharius turrets?

BYE

RE: Baneblade kit info

The Buzz — GMT

Fear not, as soon as the Baneblade is available, I will be parting out this monster for the webstore:

www.wookiehole.com

So additional soponsons will be available, as well as the 'Commissar/Tank Commander'

Cheers

RE: Baneblade kit info

Kilkrazy — GMT

Thank you for the review, Orlanth. It was interesting reading even though I have no plan to buy a Baneblade.

I don't think it is unreasonable to expect a £60 kit to have been designed not to be deliberately difficult to assemble. It might not be a snap-together but things like part numbers moulded on the sprues ought to be standard for any complex kit.

RE: Baneblade kit info

hammerofulric — GMT

[quote]Posted By H.B.M.C. on 09/11/2007 1:04 AM
According to the rules for the Baneblade in Apoc, it can have a second set of sponsons.

I see a Stormhammer conversion coming on. Now where can I source two Macharius turrets?

BYE[/quote]

I'm also planning a Stormhammer. I've seen the plastic Baneblade up close, and I'm trying to work out whether I can squeeze two turrets and four sponsons onto one hull, or if I need to widen and lengthen it with a second kit.

The gun mantlet should hold a couple of Leman Russ barrels (I'm ignoring the Epic Armageddon perversion), the sponson turrets will have heavy bolters, and each of the four sponsons will have three boltguns.

Keeping it old school!

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

Hmm. you can easily fitr four sponsons on the model. to make your Stormhammer you will need to replace the front glassis plate with something able to hold a turret then build up the turrets and twin linked battle cannon. It should be an decent efficient tank.

Youn will need enough plasticard or Russ parts that I would forget trying Macharius turrets, they are too long anyway, you need a fairly squat turret to allow both to have a good traverse.

RE: Baneblade kit info

syr8766 — GMT

Does someone have pics of the sprues or the kit itself as a WIP?

RE: Baneblade kit info

Foda_Bett — GMT

How did the tracks assemble? Each link a separate piece or like the other GW tanks with multiple links as 1 piece?

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

Tracks asembled just like with a Russ, Land Raider or Rhino. some long 'strips' some single pieces at the drive wheels. However the drive and road wheels only attach to one side of the track section or other, in order to bridge the main pieces of the tank sides you need to glue on the tracks. So the tracks are themselves a 'side of the box' and part of the models structure. This means you need to file, prefit and assemble on the entire side structure, tracks, and track guards and all their component parts (which need their own assembly) in one sitting or the results could go askew.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Agamemnon2 — GMT

I'm sure a bit of creative use of shims and styrene strips will solve that fairly well.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Necros — GMT

Did the kit really come with all the bitz you need to make that fortress of arrogance thingy? or was that a conversion?

And does anyone know if that's a commisar yarrik only kind of thing? I think something like that would be cool for the inquisitor that leads my guard army

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

No extra bits otherthan whats was mentioned. To summarise you get a Baneblade plus:

alternative Hellblade primary weapon
alternative twin linked heavy flamer sponson weapons

An extra commander torso and a standing officer both with engough arms heads and guns to go around.
two main gun shells
a toolkit
a heavy wrench
pintel mounted heavy stubber

You get nothing else. Apart from the standing Officer/Commissar (which is very nice) its a disappointing raid for bits.

RE: Baneblade kit info

steinerp — GMT

The 40kfightclub has some decent pictures of the sprues. http://www.40kfightclub.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=98642#98642

RE: Baneblade kit info

Ghaz — GMT

You can also get some good pics of the assembled model on Warseer:

http://warseer.com/forums/1903011-post1.html

http://warseer.com/forums/1903932-post41.html

RE: Baneblade kit info

CaptKaruthors — GMT

Yeah, I'll definitely be filing off some of the rivets on that thing.

Capt K

RE: Baneblade kit info

Necros — GMT

Wowsers, that's a lotta pieces

RE: Baneblade kit info

Hellfury — GMT

[quote]Posted By Orlanth on 09/12/2007 8:39 AM
No extra bits otherthan whats was mentioned. To summarise you get a Baneblade plus:

alternative Hellblade primary weapon
alternative twin linked heavy flamer sponson weapons

An extra commander torso and a standing officer both with engough arms heads and guns to go around.
two main gun shells
a toolkit
a heavy wrench
pintel mounted heavy stubber

You get nothing else. Apart from the standing Officer/Commissar (which is very nice) its a disappointing raid for bits.
[/quote]
Heavy flamer sponsons are so damned stupid. They should have made them into inferno cannons...

it is a baneblade afterall, so no worry about making it anymore over the top.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Jester — GMT

Or even Volcano Cannons!

I wonder if the toolkit and walloping wrench are lootable.

RE: Baneblade kit info

syr8766 — GMT

Those are a LOT of pieces.

Hrmn, would those mini-turrets look good on my ACW land-ironclad? Hrmn.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Jester — GMT

I'm fairly certain that there is an electric liniment or vituperative serum that you can imbibe to take you out of your Victorian Era doldrums, Yair.

Seriously, get help.

That being said, I'm sure the turrets would do smashingly.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Pariah Press — GMT

[quote]Posted By Jester on 09/13/2007 7:05 PM
I'm fairly certain that there is an electric liniment or vituperative serum that you can imbibe to take you out of your Victorian Era doldrums, Yair.

Seriously, get help.
[/quote]
Says the man with the Oscar Wilde sig.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Reecius — GMT

they have a couple of them painted and assembled at the LA battle bunker by my house, and the things are massive. More than twice the size of a leman russ.

the chaos version is as spikey as can be and the hellhammer is pretty cool looking, but i dont care for the snubnosed cannon much. they do look pretty awesome though.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Toreador — GMT

Some more pics from Warseer of newly assembled Baneblades, also pics of the sprues.
http://warseer.com/forums/40k-news-rumour-discussion/102347-more-baneblade-photos.html

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

I returned to my local GW today to finish off building the Baneblade I started, and to build a second. The store has three, and many other things (but nothing else new except the command sprue). I will update the Baneblade model info, tell youn a little about the command sprue and about apocalypse, which we played tonight. According to the staff it was the first open Apocalypse game in any Gw store in the UK.

Baneblade.

I was proven horribly right. The store manager had tried to continue building the baneblade, and only build part of one side (I had completed the other thats as far as I got).
Because the tracks were not assembled at the same time as the sideplates the whole side panel was askew. This is a very easy kit to mess up, and at £60 a time noone can really afford that. If you buy a Baneblade, and I do recommend it, please keep this in mind.

I also found that this also applies to the sponson and turret aseembly. Though that is normal for 'box parts' and are easy to construct in one sitting.

Some further warnings.
- While the side plates and road wheels are makered left and right sides other peices are not. The armour plates that fit on the sides, the fuel lines and parts of the sponsons are left and right hand sidde only, look very similar to each other, and are not marked. I had to refit the fuel lines to the main chassis today. and had to mix and match the armour plates.

- The sponsons can be replaced for free with armour plates giving the tank Av14 ion the sides. This helps against aircraft but the loss of firepower is too much. Alternately for 100pts extra you can fit another sponson pair. If you are planning this however the sponson assembly and side platesd are not on their own sprue. So youi will need a BWB spurchase (which will be priced accordingly) opr buy two Baneblades and model one without and one with four sponsons. his is what I did today - the shop has four Baneblades total, the fourth is a Forgeworld kit. While the cost is ascceptable I didnt like the lok of the four sponson baneblade, two is better.

- The Hellblade cannon is warped and doesnt fit together properly, the only part that doesnt. As I had three Baneblades to choose bits from I tried all three, we only wanted one so could try to get a better match with the others. They all had the same problem. This shouldnt be to important, the Hellblade is an inferior design and probably only of interest to those who want to buy many Banebades.

The crew minis are awesome, I love the standing officer/Commissar. I asked for the remaining bits from the tanks I built and was given them. so two plastic officers for me! - and enough toolkit parts for my Cadian mechanic team (counts as Tech Servitors).

After building/part building two Baneblades, I would say its certainly not a job for anyone impatient, definately one of the harder plastic kits, but that was due to poor design of the kit. Some of the pieces dont fit easily, but all except the Hellblade cannon do fit. Average uninterrupted build time (constructed carefully) approx five hours.

Oh, and if you leave off the ammo bins and comms gear one the rear of the turret the rear face has a small gunport with a lasgun. Its quite comical in a way,. one side has the autocannon and primary weapon, the other a little lasgun. But its a warmachine, that lasgun chooses its own target, so it may count for something after all. Though the Apocalypse rulebook makes no mention of it on the datasheets.

COMMAND SPRUE

There was one with the Baneblade, not tghat it could use it. I dont think it is part of the kit, just part of the box of junk w head office sent the store. each piece assembles and can be added to a bnormal tank of the race. Though the extra defiler head is just an extra defiler head, adn the array that looks like hot rod exhausts are not mentioned on any of the kits shown in the Apocalypse rulebook. They could be for Dark Eldar.
The Guard pack looks good, the large Imperial Eagle is curved and is actually a radar/comms dish. The Space Marines get a large bosx shaped structure containing some lenses that fits on an ordinaery tank chassis. It will be ok on a Rhino but will boscure the gun on a Razorback. Still as a turret piece it can be swapped in if needed on any Imperial vehicle.

The Tau command pack is fugly and the Eldar onje slightly better but both sit on the hull of the respective tanks. Given a small pin or magnet they could become an easily swappable add on.

APOCALYPSE GAME AND BOOK

I didnt watch the game much, I was busy building the tanks. However sdome observations.

- As mentioned in the rulebook it needs preparation. 'Hi do you want a game of Apocalypse' is not a viable proposition. Unless you prepare up a scenario of sorts the game breaks down.
- You bid to see who will set up his force in the shortest amount of time. The [player(s) who bids lower set up first, if they set up on time they go first. If they dont they go second and all remaining forces gfo into reserve. They can choose to keep units in reserve and so guarantee their time limit.
- Only the players who set up second can infiltrate. These two rules should be adopted for normal 40K.
- The rulebook is humouriously written in parts, many of the big things have been upgunned and had their points costs slashed. If you think you will have an esy victory because the opponent has spalsghed out on a biotitan or super heavy think again. With some tyes, but others are now worth their poinjts costs, even when the points went up.
- You need to pay for the special abilities, not just have the correct formation size.
- The open ended codex 'organisation' sucked even from the irst game. Much of the flabvour added by the new units was lost by the cghaotic nature of the game and how open to abuse it is.

Some Forgeworld kiots are not included in the Apocalypse book, in fact most were not. So you still have the old points costs uintil GW produces the datasheets. These will apparently be free to download.
They ought to be because the new flagship vehicle for the Marines, the Land Raider Terminus was omitted from the new book.
The artwork was awesome, best yet seen in the book. It is probably worth it just for the pullm, out sections fluff and the odd decent unit.
The Warlord Titan is sick, not quite able to stand up against 2500pts of Broadsides, but that is an obvious tailored mismatch. It candefeat a 2500 pt army on its own though. Void shields are not rerolled like they were regenerated. You roll the number of structure points remaining and regain a shield for each 5+ rolled. So unless you dedicate a lot of firepower and collapse the shields and do some damage the chances are the following turn the titan would be back up to full shield strength. This is not anything you can ignore either. The Gatling Blaster is a heavy 6 battlecannon, and the weapons get harder from there.

If anyone has questions might be able to answer them.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Abadabadoobaddon — GMT

[quote]Posted By Orlanth on 09/18/2007 6:26 PM
The Gatling Blaster is a heavy 6 battlecannon, and the weapons get harder from there.
[/quote] I fail to see the efficacy of a heavy 6 battlecannon. You can only kill a unit once. And with no FOC your opponent can have A LOT of separate units. The Warlord can only target 4 units a turn, right? What happens when your enemy takes 2500 pts of singleton Obliterators?

RE: Baneblade kit info

H.B.M.C. — GMT

Hope you scatter lots?

BYE

RE: Baneblade kit info

Agamemnon2 — GMT

[quote]Posted By Orlanth on 09/18/2007 6:26 PM

I was proven horribly right. The store manager had tried to continue building the baneblade, and only build part of one side (I had completed the other thats as far as I got).
Because the tracks were not assembled at the same time as the sideplates the whole side panel was askew. This is a very easy kit to mess up, and at 30 a time noone can really afford that. If you buy a Baneblade, and I do recommend it, please keep this in mind.
[/quote] This is an unfortunate, though I think if one has experience with "proper" plastic model tanks, not an insurmountable obstacle (if you've ever built something by Zvezda or Italeri, chances are working with warped parts and such will be second nature by now). I wonder why they mounted those three pins in the side assembly in a line, wouldn't a triangle been a stabler arrangement?

Would temporarily fixing the tracks in place for the purposes of checking the fit and clearance be enough, or should they be glued on at this early stage? Also, are there any spare track links?

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

"I fail to see the efficacy of a heavy 6 battlecannon. You can only kill a unit once. And with no FOC your opponent can have A LOT of separate units. The Warlord can only target 4 units a turn, right? What happens when your enemy takes 2500 pts of singleton Obliterators?"

Dont want to completely swallow the thread on the heavy 6 battlecannon but, you do place each template seperately, adjacent to each other. Its a barrage and therefore is not targeted at one squad. You can sling the templates along blowing up whatever is in the way. However accumulative fire is useful for killing a cluster of deep strike carnies.

The Apocalypse Missile launcher uses the big clover shaped template, the gatling blaster does not have to.

Your point about the oblits are unfair. I already mentioned Broadsides anyway, and 2500pts of lascannon anti tank squads in another thread. If an opponent has that army dont field the Titan. I assume the forward planning of the adeptus mechanicus looks at things like that. Titans pick their own battles.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

"This is an unfortunate, though I think if one has experience with "proper" plastic model tanks, not an insurmountable obstacle (if you've ever built something by Zvezda or Italeri, chances are working with warped parts and such will be second nature by now). I wonder why they mounted those three pins in the side assembly in a line, wouldn't a triangle been a stabler arrangement?"

It has bween a long time since I built an airfix or Tamiya kit, but honestly they were more intelligently thought out. I havent built anything by Zvezda but the quality looks like it has improved lately, particularly the fantasy range.
Mounting the pins in two lines would have been best, also the sprue had ample room for those side panls and the hull bottom to be molded in one piece. Having it split into two was unnecessary.

"Would temporarily fixing the tracks in place for the purposes of checking the fit and clearance be enough, or should they be glued on at this early stage? Also, are there any spare track links?"

I suggest you:
- Take off every piece for the side file it and prepare it.
- assmeble the drive wheel sections first. As they can ber done in isolation. Ther build guide recommends this as stage one.
- Mix strages two three and four together.
- Assemble each side panel then fix the side panels together. add the front drive wheel
- Take track sections four five and six, the long pieces on the ground see where they fit from (this should be simple enough the first long section angles towards the ground the next too are underneath the tank. Glue these on first. Starting with five. Forget one two and three.
- This will stabilisie the tank side. Then add the rear drive wheel and glue in track seven. The drive wheels are very precariously positioned. They are normally glued only onto one side and are quite bulky. They also need to be positioned correctly.
- Then glue on the single track pieces one, two and three at the front around the front drive wheel. Then add track twelve, a short section that runs up under the track guards.
- Now repeat the same fro the rear drive wheel.
- Then add the top track guard.
- Glue the fuel line to the rear track guard/ mounting for the fule barrels. It is important you have the correct fuel line and rear track guard piece. They are not identical.
- Glue the piece to the track guards and the side of the tank simultaneously. You will need to push it into position. So do this before the glue sets on everything else.

You can stop now, the side of the gank is now stable. You can add the barrels and smoke launchers later at your leisure.

Oh while we are at this.

If you want your lascannon sponson turrets to swivel you will need to drill and pin the holding pin. The lascannon turret sits on the sponson. There is a pin from the top glued directly onto the spionson roof. This sucks. You have to judge the amount of glue you add very carefully (this was impossible with a GW squeezy bottle. Despite all my cares the lascannon were stuck fast. eventually I didnt bother trying.

Also the mounting of the heavy bolters doesnt show which way up it goes. its viewed end on. You ca see which way by looking carefully at other construction diagrams later in the guide. (The piston goes at the bottom.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

"This is an unfortunate, though I think if one has experience with "proper" plastic model tanks, not an insurmountable obstacle (if you've ever built something by Zvezda or Italeri, chances are working with warped parts and such will be second nature by now). I wonder why they mounted those three pins in the side assembly in a line, wouldn't a triangle been a stabler arrangement?"

It has been a long time since I built an Airfix or Tamiya kit, but honestly they were more intelligently thought out. I haven't built anything by Zvezda but the quality looks like it has improved lately, particularly the fantasy range.
Mounting the pins in two lines would have been best, also the sprue had ample room for those side panels and the hull bottom to be molded in one piece. Having it split into two was unnecessary.

"Would temporarily fixing the tracks in place for the purposes of checking the fit and clearance be enough, or should they be glued on at this early stage? Also, are there any spare track links?"

I suggest you:
- Take off every piece for the side file it and prepare it.
- Assemble the drive wheel sections first. As they can be done in isolation. The build guide recommends this as stage one.
- Mix strages two three and four together.
- Assemble each side panel then fix the side panels together. Add the front drive wheel.
- Take track sections four five and six, the long pieces on the ground see where they fit from (this should be simple enough the first long section angles towards the ground the next too are underneath the tank. Glue these on first. Starting with five. Forget one two and three for now.
- This will stabilise the tank side. Then add the rear drive wheel and glue in track seven. The drive wheels are very precariously positioned. They are normally glued only onto one side and are quite bulky. They also need to be positioned correctly.
- Then glue on the single track pieces one, two and three at the front around the front drive wheel. Then add track twelve, a short section that runs up under the track guards.
- Now repeat the same for the rear drive wheel.
- Then add the top track guard.
- Glue the fuel line to the rear track guard/ mounting for the fuel barrels. It is important you have the correct fuel line and rear track guard piece. They are not identical.
- Glue the piece to the track guards and the side of the tank simultaneously. You will need to push it into position. So do this before the glue sets on everything else.

You can stop now, the side of the tank is now stable. You can add the barrels and smoke launchers later at your leisure.

Oh while we are at this.

If you want your lascannon sponson turrets to swivel you will need to drill and pin the holding pin. The lascannon turret sits on the sponson. There is a pin from the top glued directly onto the sponson roof. This sucks. You have to judge the amount of glue you add very carefully - this was impossible with a GW squeezy bottle. Despite all my cares the lascannon were stuck fast. Eventually I didn't bother trying.

Also the mounting of the heavy bolters doesn't show which way up it goes. Its viewed end on. You can see which way by looking carefully at other construction diagrams later in the guide. (The piston goes at the bottom.) This is probably not too important anyway asit will be mostly concealed. If you do want a Hellblade you will have to squeeze the heavy flamers through the holes in the curved sponson frontplate. They were not designed with assembling heavy flamers in mind. Though they do sit well after the fact.

RE: Baneblade kit info

H.B.M.C. — GMT

Hmm... and here I thought putting the wheel assembleys together for the FW Baneblade was difficult...

BYE

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

It is more difficult. the fourth Baneblade in the store is a Forgeworld one. Its inferior in almost every way, and the tracks are a real pain. The staff member who was repairing (yes not assembling) one took as long as he did to fix the broken tracks as I did to make nearly the whole tank. But that is because he realised he had to pin each and every single one.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Agamemnon2 — GMT

Well, I've my mind set on painting the tracks separately, so I'll figure something else out. Probably I'll invest in another sheet of 2mil styrene and shim the living daylights out of the interior of the side "box" structures".

As for Zvezda tank kits, they make Tamiya's products look like works of genius. Imagine you're building a square hull "tube" from four panels with only a limited adhesion surface. Imagine all four panels are warped. Outwards. Imagine the aggravation of gluing a stiff vinyl net on a flimsy plastic frame, on the inside of a curved surface. Imagine round parts with a full half a millimeter of mould shift. The list goes on.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

Well, I've my mind set on painting the tracks separately, so I'll figure something else out. Probably I'll invest in another sheet of 2mil styrene and shim the living daylights out of the interior of the side "box" structures".

forget it. You must asemble the sides together to get the tank to work. however that is not a problem after undercoating the tank cover the track asemblies with masking tape, then spray the chassis. Then you can paint the tracks later. The track arranglemnt is simple and blocky - ok the detail is good, but unlike a rhino tracks they are eay to isolate with masking tape. You should have no problems painting them seperately even if you airbrush.
If you don't airbrush no worries. The tracks and the hull have a gap all the way around. Its an easy job to paint them seperately.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Agamemnon2 — GMT

I am profoundly disappointed if it's indeed impossible. I don't appreciate having to change the way I put together and paint tanks because of GW's incompetence. Oh well, it'l probably still look presentable regardless.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

No not impossible, but in all honesty unnecessary. Why do you paint tracks seperately by the way?

RE: Baneblade kit info

two heads talking — GMT

I might pick one of these up just so I have more scrap for my orks.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Agamemnon2 — GMT

I've found if I don't, some nook or cranny will remain unpainted.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

Then your answer is to paint the tracks and road wheels fresh from the sprue assemble the sides and then use masking tape before you spray the main tank chassis.

RE: Baneblade kit info

Major Thom — GMT

You know a little overspray on the road wheels and tracks wouldn't be a bad thing. It happens on the real thing all the time.

RE: Baneblade kit info

danincan4 — GMT

I have been putting mine together for two days now and am finishing the tracks. I didn't do it in one sitting and I have found by cutting off the locators on the back of the tracks and just glueing them together and to the wheels that I am able to make it look much nicer than if I leave the locators on. I messed up on one side but as this will be a Nurgle Blade I don't really think it will look too bad when I'm done. Of course I can always have that side crushing a Blood Angel or something anyway.

RE: Baneblade kit info

H.B.M.C. — GMT

I've put together my Baneblade now, and it really wasn't that hard. I got two of the wheel's the wrong way around, but it made no difference to the construction of the tank (so much so that I didn't notice it until I started the second set of tracks).

Good kit. Easy to put together. Takes a while, but everything fits together perfectly.

BYE

RE: Baneblade kit info

CaptKaruthors — GMT

I agree with HBMC. I had no trouble assembling this thing. It took a while, but I had no issues at all. I would like to add that I ended up running a pin through the lascannon into the top of the heavy bolter. The plastic pin is too shallow and the lascannons tend to fall off when you move the tank, etc. With it the pins, the lascannon turrets turn better now.

Capt K

RE: Baneblade kit info

Necros — GMT

Mine went together pretty easily too. But, now that I'm painting it there's a few things I wish I left off till later. Like for instance the gas tanks on the back make it really tough to get a brush in behind them to paint the rear sides of the body. Also pay attention when you put those tanks together, I didn't notice it but I got my tank pieces mixed up and some of the skulls on the back of them are upside down I followed the included rules when I made mine too, I saw some people complain about the rules in a few places but I didn't have any problem. Just take your time and it should all go together fine

RE: Baneblade kit info

Orlanth — GMT

Yep, as mentioned earlier, many of the side pieces are left and right side specific look very similar and you wont know you have the wrong piece until the next doesnt fit.

So long as you are forewarned about the Baneblade assebnly problems its an easykit to put together, but even with the warnings I am seeing plenty of posts where someone or other has saying they have fudged the trck assembly, here and elsewhere.

RE: Baneblade kit info

H.B.M.C. — GMT

[quote]Posted By Orlanth on 10/25/2007 3:00 PM
Yep, as mentioned earlier, many of the side pieces are left and right side specific look very similar and you wont know you have the wrong piece until the next doesnt fit.[/quote] I got two pieces mixed up and it went together without a hitch.

I'm not saying that it's not a complicated kit - it has a lot of pieces - but honestly I had more trouble with Chiemra tracks than I did with the Baneblade.

BYE

RE: Baneblade kit info

Zoned — GMT

I have to add that I think the Baneblade was a fairly non-stressful kit to build. I didn't know anything about the kit going in, and two friends and I built all our Baneblades in one evening without difficulty. .

RE: Baneblade kit info

Moopy — GMT

Any news if Forgeworld will be making kits for it?

RE: Baneblade kit info

Necros — GMT

yeah they are. If I'm not mistaken, I thought someone posted pics of some new conversion kits they're working on.. maybe it was on warseer

RE: Baneblade kit info

Asmodai — GMT

Yep. There's a Shadowsword conversion kit already floating the net.