UPDATE: This blog was originally going to be my attempt at building a Space Marine force from my own home brew chapter, but at the moment I've gone off the idea and instead concentrating on various scratchbuilds and conversions from the 40k world...
So far we have up-armoured Rhino and Predator with LEDs, an AoBR Dreadnought, a converted Stormraven,and scratchbuilds on a Thunderhawk Gunship,Thunderbolt Heavy Fighter, Marauder Bomber and Taurox
ORIGINAL POST:
You may have seen a glimpse of this in my Imperial Guard diorama blog Once More Unto the Breach diorama blog. Well, while the filler dries I've moved back to my Rhino and Predator 'Pimp Yo Ride' project. Plan is to fully magentise the Predator so that weapon options can be interchanged and for the Rhino I'll be magentising as well as having all the hatches hinged and openable... Something I saw over on Warseer a while back...
These models will be part of my upcoming Space Marine force and will be a homebrew chapter of which I will reveal more as I go.
Here's some WIP of the initial sponson magentising. I'm going to have the actual sponsons swappable not just the weapon and have got hold of a couple of spares to do this.
The little circular nubs on plastic sprues are useful for mounting the magnets I have. Just have to drill a hole as deep as the magnet then glue it in place
Added magnet to the Rhino door so can change between Predator and Rhino if needed
On the Rhino I made the mistake of gluing too soon and as a result managed to get the loading ramp the wrong way round! To fix this I had to cut the damn thing off and then cut a slot to refit the newly glued pivot bar... Lesson learnt !!
Quick note, I don't plan to rush into this, my main focus is still the IG diorama which itself is having to fit around my ongoing house decoration project (maybe the subject for a new blog ). I will though update as when there has been progress or new purchases, as so far, asides from these tanks, I have the AoBR set plus a couple of sprues of marines and that's it...
Over to the Rhino now and I've been working on havng all hatches and doors fully hinged, which has been trickier than I thought and am also upgrading the armour by scratch building with plasticard, going for a similar look to the stuff Forgeworld makes, with some slight changes.
Here's the photos...
Hinges are just made from thin paperclips cut to size and bent in an L shape with the model hinges drilled out, paperclip passed through and into main body of the Rhino. To secure them I'll bend the clips behind the rhino body, although will be painting them first. See the first photo for the door lying next to the Rhino with clips in place.
Wow lovely plasticard skills, loving the adapted tactical symbol, and the side hatch is amazingly well made. Nice job, look forward to stealing more ideas of you
The tactical symbol is inspired by PowerPoint! I use this every day at work and it's one of the available block arrows that you can draw. It's made from thin card rather than plasticard but I like the effect of the raised symbol over freehand painted.
Next stage is working pn the front armour than adding my chapter symbol (home brew chapter) to the rear and side doors, plus something on the front.
Lennysmash wrote:Wow lovely plasticard skills, loving the adapted tactical symbol, and the side hatch is amazingly well made. Nice job, look forward to stealing more ideas of you
Totally agreed. There's some great ideas here which I'm taking. Much obliged!
Feel free to make a tutorial detailing exactly how to do all this too. I won't mind.... ^_^
Thanks for the kind comments folks, the Rhino is a cool model and hopefully my additions will increase the coolness in some way.
In terms of a tutorial, I'm making most of this up as I go, but may do a tutorial for the next Rhino I build, watch this space.
Work has progressed on the front armour plates, have also cut out the windows on the drivers cabin - will replace this with clear pastic so as to get a reflection when looking head on - interior of the drivers cabin will be painted black, not detailing it, just think the clear plastic will look good...
Have also been considering adding LEDs for the actual lights, so the cabin may become the battery holder... Thought in progress on this...
Great progress mate. Tutorial wise just keep those pictures coming and it a tutorial in itself. One question though what thickness cards are you using?
Looks great mate. I would love to see the LED lights on it as well. If this is the standard of your normal rhino's I can't wait to see whatever you do to a centrepiece model!
taffiarti wrote:Looks great mate. I would love to see the LED lights on it as well. If this is the standard of your normal rhino's I can't wait to see whatever you do to a centrepiece model!
Cheers, saw the LEDs done in another thread so may steal that one... These are almost my first 40k models in over 20 years of gaming - I was always a Fantasy player, then moved to historical (ww2, Old West, Vikings to name a few). I have dabbled with a few single models but never got immersed in the 40k lore - until a few years back when I started my IG diorama. The plan is for these to be the start of a new force, let's see how it goes...
Lennysmash wrote:Great progress mate. Tutorial wise just keep those pictures coming and it a tutorial in itself. One question though what thickness cards are you using?
Cheers Lennysmash, more pictures are on the way (see below!) I have two thicknesses of plasticard at the moment, bpught them years and years ago from a model airplane shop, not sure of the measurement, will check in the morning and post - think it'll be something like 2mm & 4mm? I also use a lot of thin card, again not sure but think it is 220gsm grade and is all approx 50mm x 80mm sized (credit card size). Got this from where I used to work in a printing centre, and was the offcuts from where we made name badges for corporate events.
So here's the next steps - pretty much finished then decided to add some extra rear armour around the loading ramp and also another plate to the front. Gotta go over the whole lot and add rivets, although haven't decided the best approach to this? I read that shallow drilled holes with the contents of a water filter stuck inside works well, anyone used this approach before or any other suggestions?
Lennysmash wrote:Great progress mate. Tutorial wise just keep those pictures coming and it a tutorial in itself. One question though what thickness cards are you using?
Actually, the plasticard thickness I use are 1mm and 2mm, not 2mm and 4mm as previously stated, sorry about the misinformation!!
Right, on with the build...
Have added grab handles onto all doors and hatches as well as replacing the hard plastic ladder on the side door with wire rungs - these are all multi use, as they not only look good, but allow me to open the hatches without damaging the (upcoming) paint work. The wire is stripped out from a thin single core electrical roll (copper). Same wire that the door/hatch hinges are made from (the original paperclips proved to be too thick and damaged the soft plastic the rhino is made from).
Top hatch hinged, plus rotates. The smaller hatch also rotates freely...
Also added an extra armour plate on the front under the cabin armour, can just about see it in this image...
Here's the workings for the hatches - these wires are paperclips bent and glued into the top hatch but runs free under the body (copper wire was too soft for this)
Small hatch is magnetised with the plasticard insert to hold the pivot magnet. I'll be adding the missile launcher on top of this hatch and wanted to have the full 360ยบ rotation, along with the vertical movement of the weapon mount.
To do:
Fill all gaps on the pasticard armour
Add rivets
Add extras such as weapons, smoke launchers, tow cable, tow hook
Add battle damage to armour
Add tracks
Add LEDs (maybe)
PAINT (gotta get an airbrush...)
I may move back the Predator now and although I wasn't going to, add some extra armour to this one, but I may follow the Forge World version a bit closer - plus is less work
Cheers,
R
P.S. Any suggestions for how to add/model rivets are most appreciated - I have lots to do on this Rhino!!
Rivets can be done by drilling a slight divet into the surface and then stcking a carbon bead from a water filter into the divet [carefully break open the plastic filter and you will have thousands of beads].
You can then flatten the bead with a file/sandpaper/knife to taste.
Commander Cain wrote:Great work on the extra armour! The small details really set it out from the crowd.
Cheers, yeah I reckon it's looking good.
notprop wrote:Rivets can be done by drilling a slight divet into the surface and then stcking a carbon bead from a water filter into the divet [carefully break open the plastic filter and you will have thousands of beads].
You can then flatten the bead with a file/sandpaper/knife to taste.
This is all looking great by the way.
I reckon this is the way to go, thanks for the advice.
Back to the Pred and working on the extra armour a la Forgeworld.
These are what I'm using as the basis for this build
So on to my progress, door surrounds built for both sides (2mm plasticard all round)
Front armour made for both sides as well - mixture of 2mm and 1mm armour. Some further pieces needed to make it look nice and chunky, but it's fitting niccely on the model...
Just blu-tacked on front and rear amour for the photos, have constructed them in one piece so will glue it once the insides of the pred are painted and I've glued down the hull.
TO DO: Add armour to exhausts Fill all gaps on the pasticard armour Add rivets Add extras such as weapons, smoke launchers, tow cable, tow hook Add battle damage to armour Add tracks Add LEDs (maybe) PAINT (gotta get an airbrush...)
Still looking good, but you are aware that you tank now has the same problem as the first Deathstar, the rebels just need to get a torpedo into that rear vent and kaboom!
Lennysmash wrote:Still looking good, but you are aware that you tank now has the same problem as the first Deathstar, the rebels just need to get a torpedo into that rear vent and kaboom!
LOL, very true (and love the Star Wars comparison!) I guess we all need our Achilles heel, otherwise the SMs would just wipe the board clean of their foe without problem, oh wait, isn't that what all the old fluff used to say about them!!
Lennysmash wrote:Indeed it did, but now you can run a marine off the board I think. So much for "Death or Glory" lol.
Yeah, I hear you on that one...
shingouki wrote:this looks really cool ive not seen a rhino get pimped before.keep up the quality work.
Cheers, I love the working hatches, LEDs would def give it more of the 'pimped' effect, just not sure whether I'm going this route or not.
whalemusic360 wrote:Very impressive rhino chassis, keep at it! Any plans for more vehicles when done?
Thanks, yep, there'll definitely be a few more Rhino based tanks - Vindicator, Whirlwind are on my to do list, I'll also armour these up although will be the Pred style rather than the Rhino.
Think a Land Raider or two may appear at some point along with some drop pods, bikes and landspeeders. Might also scratchbuild a Thunderhawk or two if / when I get some spare time (although will need to stock up on some foam board and plasticard)
Exhaust armour added, then had to reposition the sponson magnets as the extra armour pushes them out further from the body. Quick cut, added a piece of plasticard and re-glued...
I've never used a Rhino before, but is it possible to just stick a giant cannon on top of one and a few side-sponson weapons and call it a predator? (assuming, of course that they are the proper weapons.)
Cave_Dweller wrote:Nice job upgrading that armor! I was thinking of doing something similar with a rhino I've got, but you've executed that perfectly!
Thanks! I think they're looking good as well !
obi-wan34 wrote:Ooooooo! Me like! I haven't seen a lot of platicard wips on the site, and would like to see more. Good job!
Well, if I go with the scratchbuilt Thunderhawk, Dakka Dakka may end up drowning in plasticard off cuts !!
crazypsyko666 wrote:I've never used a Rhino before, but is it possible to just stick a giant cannon on top of one and a few side-sponson weapons and call it a predator? (assuming, of course that they are the proper weapons.)
I guess you can do whatever you want, as long as your opponent agrees to having the piece as 'counts as'. I would imagine that given the history of the 40K 'verse, there must be plenty of variations on the Rhino chasis?
Here's some shots of more WIP - been magnetising everything in sight. I love magnets !
Predator mode
Close-up of magnetised turret hatch
Top plate removable to enable change of vehicle designation
Rhino mode, with turret hatch moved to front hatch
oops, forgot to put the extra armour on for the shots...
whalemusic360 wrote:What happened to the hinges on the roof hatches?
LOL, good spot - that was a result of experimenting with different hinge systems, but went a bit wrong on these and I ended up chopping them totally off ! Will be remodelling them at some stage with some thin plastic rod.
tipios wrote:This is such a good WIP log, and great work on the extra armour, it looks so well made. How do you cut your plastic card?
Cheers. I have several approaches to working with palsticard and also depends on the thickness. Sometmes I score the plastic part way then snap off, especially for the thicker grade. With more intricate shapes I'll drill pilot holes then score with a sharp blade. For quick cuts a sharp pair of scissors or side cutters are just as good.
All edges are smoothed with needle file and fine sandpaper, this gets rid of the bur from cutting with a blade and also gets rid of any bumps or mis-cut. Always glue together with plastic glue, not only does it make for solid joins but can also be used to fill gaps.
Another way that I haven't used yet is to get a fine fret(?) saw, these cut in any direction and can easily handle tricky shapes. I'll be investing in one of these soon and will show the results.
I have also in the past experimented with a Dremel and cutting disc, but didn't like the results
c0un7_z3r0 wrote:That is some solid work! This gave me loads of inspiration on how to magnetize my tanks!
Cool, glad it's inspired. Magnets are great !
crazypsyko666 wrote:I was mostly wondering (in my previous post) if the bodies were the same. Great job, anyways. That armor looks great and natural.
Ahh, okay. Yes it's all from the same basic body style. Many people suggest that you never buy a basic Rhino but always go for a variant as you can magnetise and have multiple styles of tank for the price of one. My Rhino was bought as a Rhino, I got it on eBay and a lot cheaper than buying new, only problem was it stunk of cigarettes, so had to leave the sprues outside to air, then wash all the parts in warm soapy water to get rid of the smell !!
Not really an update, but the 3mm blue LEDs arrived today, only ordered them yesterday www.phenoptic.com Great service, highly recomended...
Going to do a test fit once the batteries and holders turn up (running from 3v coin cell batteries). Also need to go raid the garage and see if I can find my old soldering iron, think it's been in a box for the past 15-20 years as I haven't used it since my college days.
In the meantime I was looking at weathering techniques for tanks and found this excellent video on Youtube.
Dear Santa, if I promise to be good for the rest of the year...
I'm sure this would have been posted before, but it's still epic...
Cut a hole for the battery access (using a CR2035 3v coin cell battery and holder) to power 3mm LEDs
Made a housing for the battery holder out of plasticard. Battery holder contacts stick through for wires to be attached
Battery holder in place (top)
(bottom)
Next job will be to locate the on/off switch - this will most likely go next to the battery compartment, although am just waiting on the on/off switch to arrive in the post and not really sure how big they are until they do!!
Update: switches have now arrived, bit bigger than I thought they'd be, but still okay to fit next to the battery holder. I'll recess them slightly so there's only a minimum of the switch poking through the base of the tank.
Some_Call_Me_Tim? wrote:Ha, that Youtube video of the Rhino is classic! May not be the best looking Rhino out there, but still awesome. Who owns that thing?
I love the way you are customizing the Rhino, I have always thought that they should look more beefy. Now you just gotta get them painted!
_Tim?
I don't know for sure who owns it, but THQ and GW commissioned a company called Tanks-a-lot to build this and based it on a British FV432 troop carrier. Wonder if it's parked outside GWHQ ??
Yeah, the painting will need to wait until I buy a good airbrush and can get the hang of using it - really want to do a top notch job on these models. Gonna be delayed further though as I was playing around today and managed to break the hinges on one of the Rhino side doors clean off... Now have to go back and fix this up - might even add some extra plating on the bottom of the doors to make them stronger...
Ruglud wrote:Not really an update, but the 3mm blue LEDs arrived today, only ordered them yesterday www.phenoptic.com Great service, highly recomended...
Going to do a test fit once the batteries and holders turn up (running from 3v coin cell batteries). Also need to go raid the garage and see if I can find my old soldering iron, think it's been in a box for the past 15-20 years as I haven't used it since my college days.
In the meantime I was looking at weathering techniques for tanks and found this excellent video on Youtube.
Dear Santa, if I promise to be good for the rest of the year...
I'm sure this would have been posted before, but it's still epic...
Update time, and a damn fiddly one at that. Have been adding rivets all over the Rhino's extra armour plates and boy where there a lot to add. Rivets are the tiny balls from a water filter that had been hanging around the kitchen for an age, drilled a shallow hole then super glued them in. Pretty mind numbing, but the results look good and luckily there will be a lot less to do on the Predator armour.
Next up will be adding rivets to the Pred, then spraying some primer over everything to see if there any rough edges or filling needed
I've heard about using water filters and consequently I passed on the info but I'd never actually seen it done before now. I'm blown away but how good the scale match is for them. Great work buddy a really top notch model coming together here.
Just to note that not all water filters contain them - I desperately waited for the filter in my water jug to need changing only to discover it does not contain the nice round beads, but a kind of gritty/gravel type stuff.
I am however informed that the Britta filters have them in.
@LennySmash, yeah, the rivets look good in the 'flesh' although I reckon will look even better when some paint's been applied, hopefully will get the pred armour done in the morning before heading to work in the afternoon...
For now I've just left the beads round, hadn't thought about flattening them but will take a look once I've put a primer coat over the lot. I find that a good constant colour shows up any imperfections nicely.
@SilverMK2 - Yep, It was a Brita filter that I opened and inside was thousands upon thousands of tiny beads and a mixture of really small to really, really, really small. Mixed in with these is small pieces of what looks like charcoal, might come in handy at a later date for bases?? I reckon there'll be enough beads in here for a lifetime of riveting riveting (it's actually quite tedious process !!)
Update is amazing) after reading I cut open my brita filter, I now have a million tiny beads, and have a chaos lemanruss I needed to add rivets too, but never new how I was gona do it. I heard you could use brita filters but have never seen it done until now. Thanks alot Ruglud, this is such a helpful blog I love it The Rhino looks really nice.
@tipios Glad to have been a help and good luck with the rivets.
My only advice is to drill a very shallow indent where you want the rivets to go then use superglue by applying with a needle (need to squirt some of the glue out onto a flat surface like an old jar lid or an old blister pack).
Another option is to drip some plastic glue in the indent and allow the beads to bond when the plastic melts then resets - the beads wont melt, but if the hole is too deep they might sink in and you'll have to redrill.
I've tried both methods and they're equally effective but would say you might want to have a practice on a scrap piece of plastic to get the hang of it.
UPDATE:
Rivets added to the Predator armour - used the plastic glue method as described above (the armour is not yet fixed in place)
Next steps... Apply primer to both tanks, spray the battery compartments black, assemble LED lighting
Got a bit lost on the off-topic forums and my modeling time got sucked away into the void, but I'm going cold turkey now and getting back to this.
I've got an airbrush and compressor now but need to get some good quality paints so have decided to move to other minis in the Space Marine Blog.
Here's the first, an AOBR dreadnought. Constructed it last year and undercoated it, it looked a bit plain though so I'm going to add new elements to him. It isn't going to a Venerable or Ironclad but I carried on the armour theme and andded some plates. Also a smoke launcher and spotlight. I may also do something with the power fist, but haven't quite worked out what yet. Oh and I'll also drill out the flamer barrels
Battery holder and switch are loose at the moment as I'll be painting them up first before final fit. Have come to the conclusion though that I don't like soldering - damn fiddly...
I've also made two extra sponsoon spotlights as these where missing from the extra weapons sprue I bought on ebay - hard to see the details but made from plasticard with thin plastic tube to represent the actual light
Got myself a Stormraven, even though I'm not going to be fielding a Blood Angel or Grey Knights army, just like the model - felt that it could be improved upon, especially after seeing MajorTom's version and the Chapterhouse kit (which I believe was created by Hits the Spot)
So without further ado...
As you might be able to tell from my previous posts and other blogs, I'm more of a model builder than a painter, but I'm going to try and change that, purchased an airbrush and compressor so hopefully will splash some colour at some stage during the build of this one as well as sorting the Predator, Rhino and Dreadnought. well, maybe...
You really love that plastic card huh. The way you stick to Auto CAD and measure to cut and magnetism and LEG. I would think it is time you Scratch build your Titan, after this storm raven that is. And you know you can make your Army play as such army. You did make your own crest, your own Tank upgrades, and your own paint scheme, this means you can play it as any Marine army.
By the way great job on all the card stock modelling. I too have magnetized my Rhinos. I added LEDs and fiber optic lines as well. Not painted yet though. I want to make their upgrades neutral so that I may take them with any tank of any marine faction and they still mach. Ultramarine blue doesn't work on a BA Baal Predator nor would it work on a Dark Angle Predator.
I was thinking basic black Rhinos, with magnetized Icons. Your upgraded armor made me think of magnetized armor with icon painted in blue, red, and green. SO that would make swapping tanks, just as easy as swapping weapon options. Thanks for the idea
Cheers for the comments guys... A titan may be a step too far for me, but would love to have a go at a Thunderhawk
Work commences (slowly) on the raven... Did a bit of belly work, adding a Rhino style hatch for a speedy drop of the troops / dreadnought (although there's no way a dread would actually fit inside...
Further progress made, not stuck together yet, just test fit for wings and engines.
Can't decide what to do with the turret and air intake though... am thinking of typhoon missile launcher or just a hatch, with the air intake resized to fit... Also need to make a new rear wing of some shape and description, but not using the supplied tail / wing combo as not at all keen on it....
Progress has been good this week, have rebuilt the servitor turret using the front typhoon missile launcher and the lascannons. Put the turret assault cannons under the wings as this is a gunship after all...
Test fitted everything together, the top, wings and engines are not stuck yet, to make painting inside possible, but the base, sides and rear are stuck (pilot and canopy not glued either).... C&C welcome, enjoy...
Decided to redo the box work were the engine sits - previously made this out of layered card but not happy with it so have put some plasticard in it's place. IMO, it's far superior now...
Been a while since my last update - haven't done any further work to the Stormraven as I still haven't bought the paints I need...
Instead, I stumbled across Eli Patoroch's superb Thunderhawk plans and decided to go hell for leather. Got some more plasticard and set to with the glue...
As you can see it's early days and I'm just getting the basic structure together. Wings and engine next...
Mock up on the wing(s), simply made out of cereal box and attached with masking tape. Did these directly from Patroroch's plans, but think they're too chunky - I prefer the sleeker look, similar to The Blackadders version... http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/330/372703.page
Will be hunting out some plastic strip and / or square tubing. Plan is to have the wings removable for transit / storage so want to have them slot into the main body and fix in place with screws or similar...
redesigned the join for the wings to the body of the craft, mainly so I can include the landing gear housing, also took this opportunity to strengthen the super structure as it was feeling a little flimsy...
Wasn't happy with the magents on the wings, so have re-worked them. Added some plasticard and drilled holes for the magnets, then stuck a thin piece over the top to cover and help hold them in.
Front wings made out of three pieces of 1mm plasticard (not permanently attached yet), makes the model come togther though... Also did some work on the cockpit - two chairs and a center console, few bits still to do, getting there slowly but surely...
Thanks Whalemusic, might not have many comments, but loads of views considering this blog is only 4 pages long (woo hoo, just rolled over), so I'm happy. Having said that I do appreciate any and all comments
Quick update... Put a couple of techmarine pilots in the cockpit. They're actually based on a couple of Rhino gunners, but didn't have suitable legs for them so having to scratchbuild, which is proving very problematic - but I'm sure I'll get there. Here they are though in test position, playing on thier iPhones by the look of 'em (Angry Birds maybe??)...
Needed a change of direction as am getting jaded with the build (my curse is that I can't stay motivated and get distracted by other projects...) Moved on to some interior work - made a floor and started on the interior walls for the front cargo area. Floor was time consuming as I sliced the ribbed effect out of .75mm plasticard. Still a bit more detailing needed, but I'm pleased with how it has turned out. The walls with have cabling, switches, a few computer screens and a rack of bolters...
Thanks for the kind comments and thousands of views
Cabling installed
BTW, the two undercoated bolters on the right have at some time lost the grips and trigger - possibly I had them attached on a marine - need to fix this at some point. I'm also considering removing the ammo packs as I've just seen some images of the FW version with this...
very cool and delicate and detailed work mister! i will alarm the league now... so you never run out of motivating comments... or just simple banter
your work certainly deserves more attention... just like whalemusic already stated!
Ruglud wrote:@chuckwilliams LOL
Update time, and a damn fiddly one at that. Have been adding rivets all over the Rhino's extra armour plates and boy where there a lot to add. Rivets are the tiny balls from a water filter that had been hanging around the kitchen for an age, drilled a shallow hole then super glued them in. Pretty mind numbing, but the results look good and luckily there will be a lot less to do on the Predator armour.
that is what we in the trade call rivet zen mister... you are about to enter a fine bodyment of lunatics (ok granted adding rivets in great numbers made us even more lunatic in the first place... but well... life is otherwise pretty boring without a bit of lunacy, eh?
Next up will be adding rivets to the Pred, then spraying some primer over everything to see if there any rough edges or filling needed
Thanks Vik. Motivational comments are always, well,motivational and banter is never a bad thing
Glad you like the rivets - can't say that i'm anywhere near the extraordinary level, but getting there...
Next update... more panelling done
And good news -- i've finally ordered paint, primer and thinner so that I can try out my airbrush, so you never know, this thread may not be all grey and white plastic... maybe... no promises though... (going to have to wait until Christmas though to get my hands on it all...)
cormadepanda wrote:i am very impressed with this build. You must keep working on it and finish, then let me paint it! I am going to follow this thread from now on.
Cheers dude, I do aim to get this painted, but if I lose the motivation I'll be in touch
Dr H wrote: Just found your thread and had a shufty.
I nearly had a crysis in my pants when I saw the hinges you were doing for all the doors and hatches.
Will definitely push my modifications to the limit for any and all vehicles I build.
LOL, don't send me the dry cleaining bill !! I can't claim the hinges as my own idea, but it's a fun and effective technique, would whole heartedly reccomend it to everyone
it looks great when it all comes together! hope you find a way to make the metal beast look more aerodynamic with the wings. it is always something that bothered me with those ships. Must finish it now!
cormadepanda wrote: it looks great when it all comes together! hope you find a way to make the metal beast look more aerodynamic with the wings. it is always something that bothered me with those ships. Must finish it now!
Cheers mate, hopefully my take on the wings will be okay - they're not too chunky, but we'll see
cormadepanda wrote: it looks great when it all comes together! hope you find a way to make the metal beast look more aerodynamic with the wings. it is always something that bothered me with those ships. Must finish it now!
Cheers mate, hopefully my take on the wings will be okay - they're not too chunky, but we'll see
i look forward to it! -my opinion was; if the wings are to chunky, cut em for something different.
gotta say this...as it needs saying... this looks truly breathtaking... such an amount of really good looking inner detailing is seldom seen here... very well done mister... i usually have something negative to say... but well i wouldnยดt know what to add here... really...hopefully this wont be all in vain... will the painted model show all this detail??? if not... i have to do something drastical...
i like the typical SM look you got on the outside... very good work... and one of these days i have to get a working hinge on one of my models done too...makes any model way more awesome!!!
Nothing really to add here, just took a couple 'a shots of the parts put together. I've started to mark out the smaller detail on the front piece, especially the are behid the cockpit although difficult to make out here..
yup... there is absolutly no honest end to detailing... tho one moment or other we just have to call it quits....but... make some more...as it looks damn fine
yup... there is absolutly no honest end to detailing... tho one moment or other we just have to call it quits....but... make some more...as it looks damn fine
Thanks Vik. Yep, you're right there really is no end to the detail... And i keep seeing bits that i missed or want to alter...
cormadepanda wrote:MAN THOSE DETAILS ARE AWESOME! the work really pays off in the end. So..can it be yellow?
Thanks Panda. Sorry to disappoint, but yellow will not be the colour of choice on this bird... T here is a song associated with the final paint scheme, but i'll leave that to be revealed at a later date...
So, dear reader, here we have more detail shots...
And added magnets on the front hatch as i was fed up with the blu-tac(tm) holding it up...
Viktor von Domm wrote:i bet it will be red... as in lady in red
good looking!
Nope, not red... No Blood Angels here...
cjharrisman wrote:Your work really does make a mockery of FW stuff, truly inspiring and very precise work.
Thanks, that's really nice of you to say so
cormadepanda wrote:Man there is a song about every color! and your detail work is very impressive. it truly blown my mind well done!
True, although it's not actually a reference to the actual colour in the song, more a reference to what (or who) the colour is associated with... (It's also 2 colours that will be used) Thank-you for your continued kind words and support Panda
c0un7_z3r0 wrote:"I see a white thunderhawk gunship and I want it painted black"? As the old Stones song goes?
Incredible work anyhow, it looks amazing!
Not black, but a great song none the less... Thanks for the compliment
Well Christmas has been a bad time for any hobby related work, i.e, I've done nothing...
Got the Vallejo Model paints and airbrush thinner that I needed for Christmas though so hopefully some paint may be making an appearance soon(ish). Most likely on the Rhino, Predator and Stormraven. Just gotta watch some more Youtube vids on how to use an airbrush...
Ah yes, the Lego hobby - I too have had my fair share of plastic brick crack this festive season... Alas not of the Star Wars universe but Technic... Hoping for some Marvel lego next birthday (son's birthday, not mine - honest...)
hehe... lego tech... we sure have some but the kids are still too young to fully apreciate them... tho... nowadays...everything is littered with stuff of lego tech... mind you it get a fair bit more sturdy than back in my days this way...
also for a scratchbuilder you find always some parts of good value^^
Alrighty then, I've been playing today and made a mess trying to sort out a mess... I stuck on the rear hatch with a hinge but it didn't work, I simply wasn't paying attention to what I was doing... so had to strip it off and dig out some plasticard. N|ow it's fixed but I've got a lot of making good to do.
Moved on to the side hatches, again these will be hinged but I've approached them the way i should have dont the rear hatch. These are work in progress, will look to complete them later this week. Once these hatches are done I'll start to work on the undercarraige and add the front landing skid, then move on the rear of the gunship and add some detailing panels similar to the front...
That's some amazing work and great attention to detail very well done. I do a lot of scratch build work myself and was wondering where you order you plastic card from, as I buy mine individually from my local model shop, but doing that is quite expensive if i need a lot of it.
Once again awesome work and look forward to seeing more.
hk1x1 wrote: That's some amazing work and great attention to detail very well done. I do a lot of scratch build work myself and was wondering where you order you plastic card from, as I buy mine individually from my local model shop, but doing that is quite expensive if i need a lot of it.
Once again awesome work and look forward to seeing more.
Thanks mate, it's been a fun build so far, do need to get back in the swing now, been too long since i did any work (got sidetracked by a couple of contests here on Dakka...)
Automatically Appended Next Post: Got some work done today on the side doors, but my fething laptop is on the blink again - this time it appears to be either a simple case of dodgy driver or (and I think this is the issue) a fried motherboard / graphics chip... So, i'm back to using the wife's Tab but not able to upload photos :(
Automatically Appended Next Post: So after hours of research it would appear that the 256MB NVIDIA GeForce Go 8600M GT graphics card that is in my XPS has a fatal flaw and it was only a matter of time until it went belly up... However, as NVIDIA have publicly accepted there is an issue with the chip I may be able to get it repaired for free even though I bought it back in 2008... Time to ring DELL and see what they say and back to stealing the kids homework laptop (luckily we bought this a couple of weeks ago when the HDD died on the XPS)...
Cheers guys - hopefully one day I will get to paint it as the clean plasticard is now looking grotty and grey in places (mix of pencil lines and smudged glue...)
So, after spending much of the week repairing my true scale castle tower (as featured in my random blog - will have to take some updated snaps soon... http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/348188.page ), I did some more detailing - added some ore vents and various other bits and bobs...
Sure, I can do a video when I'm near the end of the build...
So, next update, working on the attack foils (if that's what they are called?). Scratchbuilt the lascannons as wanted them larger than those found on Marine tanks (picture has a Predator Lascannon as reference...)
Also, got my laptop repaired this morning (for free - even though it's 5 years old) so I'm happy again
Righty, time to admit an error. I got carried away with the attack foils wing thingys (really must find out the technical name for them...) and after several hours of work I test fitted them then realised my error - the damn hinge is too small, way too weedy looking. To prove my stupidity i offer the evidence up for all to see and laugh at my sheer idiocy.
So now I need to work out how to either alter what I've done or start again from scratch...
cormadepanda wrote:Simply cut a larger tube in half to wrap around it? and hide the weedy one? It seems the right size, but the hinge does seem small.
Viktor von Domm wrote:i would start from scratch again and use the smaller foils for a new project... a small escorting flyer...!
Yeah, think I'll go the 'fix' route rather than redo... More out of feeling lazy than anything else...
Oh and my laptop is down again! Dell repaired it last week but the new gpu they fitted has broken after 4 days! They offered another repair, but I have no confidence in this working so going to go for a refund or replacement system after having been on this forum www.nvidiadefect.com. if you have a system with the defective nvidia chips I urge you to have a read, some really useful advice...
Back to stealing the wifes Tab or the kids laptop!!!
No, not bad karma Vik, shoddy workmanship is to blame. The NVIDIA GPU is inherently defective and was always likely to go wrong - was just a matter of time really - from everything I've been reading on the subject I have been lucky to get the life out of it that I have (nearly 5 years...)
So now I have to play the waiting game, but it seriously reduces my web time, which usually means I lose a bit of hobby inspiration as perusing other's blogs always spurs me on... ho-hum, c'est la vie...
well...my first laptop died on me... and it was during my diploma thesis ... so you can imagine how p....d off i was.... thankfully it got refunded one day....half a year later truth to be told...
well... all info and stuff i could salvage... so i could work from there... but it costed a ton of money and time... not even telling you what it costed me in nerves and sweat...
yours sounds way more brutal than mine...how could that happen at all???
At least I was lucky enough to back up my HDD a few weeks ago - just before the HDD in the laptop died in fact! So nothing lost apart from my comprehensive website favourites... Still it'll be fun surfing the web to rebuild the list
Just waiting on the engineers report to come back then I'll post it to Dell with a letter demanding resolution in 7 days or I'll take them to the small claims court. Hopefully won't need to go that far but I do have the Sales of Goods Act (1979) on my side...
Quick update for ya... Reworked the hinge on the attack foil wing thingy (technical terminology...) to get a chunkier look - it's the old hinge with thin strips of 0,25mm plasticard wrapped round to bulk it up, then a couple of wider strips stuck on top to cover the full width (50mm). Apologies for picture quality - some odd interference on the camera - could be another piece of technology that's about to go on the blink in my household...
For some reason I've felt the urge to take this blog in a different direction. It's no longer a Space Marine oriented blog, but is now a 40K scratchbuild and conversion blog...
After a day of heavy rain I had a strange compulsion to start work on a Thunderbolt Heavy Fighter based on the wonderful Eli Patoroch template. Running low on plasticard so making this out of my remaining stock of 0.50mm plasticard. So far the main fuselage is the focus of the build...
Aircraft are always fun to build as you can whoosh them through the air with proper dakka dakka sound effects... Promised my lad that this one (when finished) will be in his room, maybe even suspended from the ceiling
Took some time out to study images of other builds, both scratch and Forge World, when I stumbled over this on youtube. If anyone is considering either route then I would definitely reccomend watching this series of videos...
Viktor von Domm wrote:what a brave project... I am eager to see where this leads to... as I would love to build such a flyer someday too....
You're not wrong, this flyer is a lot harder to scratch than it first looks. All sorts of tricky angles going on.
dsteingass wrote:Ahh The T-Bolt is one SEXY fighter!
Oh yes, it's always been my favourite FW model, maybe one day I'll fork out for one, although have heard many times that it's an awful kit to put together...
I'm having issues though, the plasticard I'm using is a touch too thin and I there are warpage issues... Time for a rethink on the build process and maybe even back to the drawing board... hmmmm...
Had an urge to do some scratchbuilding this afternoon / evening and thought where better to start than a Thunderbolt Heavy Fighter... So, with Eli Patoroch's template in hand, I started with a card version. Printed the template onto some Avery labels, then stuck onto cereal card. Did this so I could see the size and break the structure of the model for ease of making out of plasticard. This is what I have so far (you can see the card version in the background...
Really enjoyed doing this, it's my favourite part of the hobby
Sorry only just discovered this thread, looking great, have done some of the paperwork myself in the past. Liking the bird a lot. Watching from now on.
@ inmygravenimage, Littletower, Viktor von Domm, Camkierhi, Theophony, bebopdrums2424, STC_LogisEngine - Thank you one and all for your kind words and moral support. I'm well and truly in the groove on this one. Been wanting to build a Thunderbolt for ages - hopefully the creative mojo will be back for good and once I complete I'll try and get back to the T-Hawk
As for T-Bolt progress... Added some more panel work - this will get detailed with thin (0.25mm) plasticard plating.
Off now to source some good 3D images of the T-Bolt...
It is a lovely bird isn't it. I've taken some time to study images of real FW models and many fan made 3D models and realised that I've made some basic errors so far. Now I have to decide - do I try and rectify these or start again - I'm thinking the latter, just for the sheer hell of it really...
You are a damnable perfectionist aren't you? Incidentally, I have 2 spare engine intakes and exhausts that I didn't use on mine (from the storm raven kit), if you're not adverse to using an actual Bit
Thanks for the offer Graven - I'm going to try for a 100% scratchbuild on this one, but when I fail or get bored I may well come a knocking.
So, worked out what was wrong and how to rectify with recycling the work thus far - basically all the paper model templates have the fuselage base angled, but the FW model is flat...
Spoiler:
NOTE: NOT MY MODEL
Should be easy enough to strip the plasticard off then rebuild to the correct shape
Also the nose section is solid on my version, but not so on the resin kit, in fact there is a lot of detail here that the paper version seems to lack...
Spoiler:
NOTE: NOT MY MODEL
Will probably cut out the front, then rebuild...
Note, the spoilered images are not mine... Lovely paint job though
Great work mate... great work....... the stucture of the build is looking great! It is certainly a good looking model and i am sure you will do it justice! top notch!
Great work on your T-Bolt. When I made mine a while back, I depended heavily on GW reference photos. The nose section was lacking some details and I made my nose cannons longer. One thing I do not like about the GW and the paper version, is that the leading edge of the wings are too flat. There is no aerodynamics with this bird. It just looks good and mean. If I were to remake this model, I would try to make the wings a bit more dihedral. Remember, the GW version is okay as is, but the builder can enhance the bird with more details. Enjoy the build and hope to see the end product soon.
Worked on the area in front of the cockpit, filled in the back of the cockpit and then covered the undercarriage area Glue fumes overpowering me now so calling it a day...
Damn it - just been looking at some images of the FW model and noticed that I've made an error on the side pods - they aren't angled down... hmm, I could leave as is, but I like the angled look... Time to rebuild (again) !
Pics or it didn't happen, not sure what part you are talking about. I've got to give it to you, usually I've started and given p on four or five projects since starting the first , keep it up.
@Theo - Haha, no pics as it hasn't happened It's the engine covers on the side of the fuselage - I want to angle them with a downward slope, currently they are perpendicular to the fuselage...
@Shas - thanks mate. Yes, cheaper in price but not in labour hopefully the glue joints are stronger this time round, but I'll be beefing it up when I do the detailing so should take an inaugural flight quite well really!
@Brian - totally agreed, I do generally try to add my own spin to my models, but I do want the sloping side pods though as it looks better to me
Reworked the side pods to get a bit of an angle on the top section - not 100% that I'm happy with it yet, but going to see how it looks once I bulk out the central section.
Also moved on to the wings and started with the basic shape, to see how it fits together - these are the second set of wings, managed to make the first version too small !! Must remember the age old saying: Measure twice, cut once...
I like it. It is coming out marvelous. If it were not for so many models to build, I would re-make this model again, but a bit different from the first one. i would like to see a two seater thunderbolt, something like a trainer.
I like it so far and the extra details if you should attempt it. will make it stand out even more. (Bomb arrays, missiles, wing tip fuel tanks, ) Keep it up and waiting to see more.
Camkierhi wrote:Now that is looking the business, good job.
Very kind of you to say so
silveroxide wrote:I like it. It is coming out marvelous. If it were not for so many models to build, I would re-make this model again, but a bit different from the first one. i would like to see a two seater thunderbolt, something like a trainer.
I like it so far and the extra details if you should attempt it. will make it stand out even more. (Bomb arrays, missiles, wing tip fuel tanks, ) Keep it up and waiting to see more.
Thanks Silver, I'd be very interested to see you have a go at one of these, or something bigger like a Marauder Bomber or Marauder Destroyer
shasolenzabi wrote:And there you go! support from some spars for structural integrity!
Oh yes - the only way to go...
inmygravenimage wrote:The leading edges on those wings look beautiful mate.
Thanks- I may need to alter this slightly as is a prototype, but won't be too far removed from what you see now...
hk1x1 wrote:That's looking amazing, you see who needs to buy models, we should all just build are own .
As scratchbuilds go I'm loving this one, especialy the complex shapes you've had to build for the main body,
and those wings look perfect.
Can't wait to to see more .
Yeah, I love the look of this bird but can't part with ยฃ85 for the real FW one, would love the plastic kit rumours to be true one day though. Having said that, scratchbuilding is one of my favourite parts of the hobby and the beauty is you can make it as simple or complex as you like (I generally go for the latter but end up wishing for the former ! )
shasolenzabi wrote:Now if the game companies would just release scaled blueprints so we could make our own!
Then the 3D printers would be working overtime
Dr H wrote:Looking good to me, Ruglud.
Thanks mate
No updates I'm afraid - had to help my brother move into a new apartment on Sunday and totally cream crackered after that - just recovering today from the aches and pains...
I'm not totally sure where the saying cream crackered comes from, but I think I must use it in casual conversation at least five times today . Everything is coming along nicely , take a well deserved break then get back to it recharged.
Cockney rhyming slang Theo - Cream crackered = knackered. American's reactions always make me laugh to these and I try to use as many as I can when I'm on holiday in Florida (we go to Disney World pretty regularly) as the natives often have no idea what I'm saying
what I currently like the best is that you made the support beams for the wings so to stick and unstick the wings to the bird... that is very good thinking mister!!!
I used some good spar support for Da Big Bomma in my thread. I find it odd that the model of the GW Ork Fighta-bomma has aerodynamic rounded leading edges on it's wing as opposed to the human wings with flat brick like surfaces. Orks truly have genius in their blood!
But this T-bolt you are making from plastic is brilliant! Now if only they'd make plastic kits cheap, but I would settle for blur-prints I could fashion my own planes from.
silveroxide wrote:I like it. It is coming out marvelous. If it were not for so many models to build, I would re-make this model again, but a bit different from the first one. i would like to see a two seater thunderbolt, something like a trainer.
I like it so far and the extra details if you should attempt it. will make it stand out even more. (Bomb arrays, missiles, wing tip fuel tanks, ) Keep it up and waiting to see more.[/quote
Thanks Silver, I'd be very interested to see you have a go at one of these, or something bigger like a Marauder Bomber or Marauder Destroyer
My T-Bird is here, http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/30/491565.page scroll down past the LCM and the Scout vehicle. I have bombs and wing tip las-cannons on mine. I do have the schematics for the Marauders, but those are for another day.
Viktor von Domm wrote:what I currently like the best is that you made the support beams for the wings so to stick and unstick the wings to the bird... that is very good thinking mister!!!
Thanks Vik, the wings will most likely be attached permanently the struts are to add strength to the join and also assist with getting the wings at the correct angle.
shasolenzabi wrote:I used some good spar support for Da Big Bomma in my thread. I find it odd that the model of the GW Ork Fighta-bomma has aerodynamic rounded leading edges on it's wing as opposed to the human wings with flat brick like surfaces. Orks truly have genius in their blood!
Yeah, GW design aesthetics sometimes leave me wondering what they are smoking in that design studio of theirs...
But this T-bolt you are making from plastic is brilliant! Now if only they'd make plastic kits cheap, but I would settle for blur-prints I could fashion my own planes from.
I still have yet to make a MiG for my Khadrovians
Funnily enough I did look for blue-prints, thought there might be a version or two somewhere on the net but so far I haven't found any :(
silveroxide wrote:I like it. It is coming out marvelous. If it were not for so many models to build, I would re-make this model again, but a bit different from the first one. i would like to see a two seater thunderbolt, something like a trainer.
I like it so far and the extra details if you should attempt it. will make it stand out even more. (Bomb arrays, missiles, wing tip fuel tanks, ) Keep it up and waiting to see more.
Cheers Silver, if I can attain the level of detail you do on your builds then I'll be happy
Thanks Silver, I'd be very interested to see you have a go at one of these, or something bigger like a Marauder Bomber or Marauder Destroyer
My T-Bird is here, http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/30/491565.page scroll down past the LCM and the Scout vehicle. I have bombs and wing tip las-cannons on mine. I do have the schematics for the Marauders, but those are for another day.
Thanks for the link, haven't looked at those models of yours for a while. Your flyers are awesome. Also reminds me that I still want to build a 40k style PBR for my Catachans
I will also patiently await your Marauder
Still no updates, sorry. Hectic week at work and decorating my daughters bedroom today... Hoping though to get high on plastic glue tomorrow
Took the wings apart today as I didn't like he angle of the tips and the rear strut was too far back - I'm toying now with not using struts in rebuild, but for now I'm building up the detailing on the wing... Forgot though to take pictures, then had a big dinner and slept through most of the evening !! Will try and get some more progress and pics up over next few days
And pictures of wing work... First picture is of the deconstructed wings, followed by new wings - made of layered plasticard - 3x 1.0mm & 2x 0.5mm detailing layers. Plus shown here is the method that I'm using to locate the wings - using flat tabs that slot into the side pods.
Next job is to shape the edges to get some feeling of aerodynamics going on... Plenty of filing and scraping ahead I feel
Yeah, there's a reason that tabs are the way that Airfix, Revel and the others do wings...
Don't know how GW does wings, as I don't have one of their's yet.
Cheers for the encouragement. Well, I've struggled to do any real work on the bird, but did finish the panelling detail on both wings
You may notice though that I made a mistake on one of the wings undersides - I made the lead edge panel to narrow so must now rectify that with some filler
Been a while since I was here... 5x 12 hour shifts a week for the last month took it's toll on my hobby time...
Still doing stupid hours, but did manage to do some work on the T/Bolt. Scatchbuilt a couple of air intake fans, not entirely sure they'll make it to the final model, more an exercise to see the process of making them really...
Look good, agreed they need Nubbin, and maybe a little beef around the outside, similar to the bought ones you have there, maybe an internal lip at the front edge. Look brilliant though.
And yes we notice the casual placement of the T/hawk in the background, yes it is very very good, shame it's white!
Nubbins - yeah still trying to decide on the best route for those. I was looking back at some other scratchbuilds and found Blackadders take on the engine intake, I'm going to go and give this a whirl...
Oooh, just seen my Salute 2014 News & Rumour thread on the front page...
Incredible work Ruglud! I couldnt possibly attempt something like this. It would be nightmarishly out of proportion:/ Great work. Im truly amazed by what you terrain and scratchbuilders come up with.
Cheers
BB
As an alternative for your engine intakes consider using a circle of card (or thin plastic) and using cuts that don't reach the centre (so that they are all still attached together) and then twisting each blade from the horizontal. If the card is porous then superglue can be used to fix them in place. This is what I used for my WS. My centre nubbin is a dome of milliput that I just pressed on and shaped.
Camkierhi wrote:Bummer dude, glad you all OK. Shame about car. Hope all works out for you.
Look for the silver linings, you will either get a nice paint job, (or looking at it ) a new car.
Auto Trader is my new favourite website !
Dr H wrote:Glad you are unhurt, but damn that's a bummer.
Sure is!
shasolenzabi wrote:Yeah, glad you are ok, sad news for the car though. :(
Yeah, I liked my car, nothing flash but a good comfortable drive...
inmygravenimage wrote:Yikes. Scratchbuild a new car maybe?
Haha, now there's a thought...
Theophony wrote:Glad your all okay , hope you didn't go all sly marbo on the other driver. Take lots of pictures later for Ork build ideas
The other driver - I ended up feeling quite sorry for him - should have seen the colour drain from him when he realised we had the kids in the car... We all walked away from the crash so in reality it's just a piece of metal that got crumpled up...
monkeytroll wrote:Ouch!
Glad to hear there were no injuries...but damn, that still sucks.
Cheers mate
Briancj wrote:He can't go Sly Marbo, anymore, he's no longer in the codex.
On the plus side, I'm sure Top Gear will recommend a new Estate Wagon to purchase.
Haha, will have to get on the phone to Mr Clarkson...
Soooo... Thanks for the kind words and well wishes one and all.
I have no updates apart from to say that I'm on an unintended hobby break while I get the car business sorted out... Initial offer from insurance company is in, but it's too low so I'm having to dispute it. More unneeded hassle really. I know I won't get a big sum of money as the car is a 2006 model with 80k miles on the clock, but I'm pushing for as much as I can... Just wasn't in a position financially to go changing the car for a newer model this year... C'est la vie...
Hey sweethearts.. I got the plasticrack urge again...
It's not perfect, the symmetry is somewhat out and I've realised that I should have referred to images of the FW version earlier in the build, but what ya gonna do!
Work progresses - after the disappointment following Italy vs England last night and having a relaxing Father's Day today, I thought it high time to get high on glue fumes...
The front details on that flyer look great, very clean and tidy.
It looks so neat form the pic, with a small amount of gap filling you could probaly cast it,
if you wanted to that is .
Dr H wrote:Nice detail work Ruglud. Looks really good.
shasolenzabi wrote:Scratch copy of FW kit, amazing work!
hk1x1 wrote:The front details on that flyer look great, very clean and tidy.
It looks so neat form the pic, with a small amount of gap filling you could probaly cast it,
if you wanted to that is .
gotta finish her first...
MagosBiff90 wrote:Ive said it once... and am quite happy to keep repeating it..... Glorious detailing! Quality all round!
Viktor von Domm wrote:poor team... be careful... or you might go the Spanish way....muhuahauaha...
sorry mate...
actually football is not my style... but the last two or three world cups have been a rollercoaster ride with lots of surprises...
but that leaves you with more time to and so much cool looking detail ...which you did^^already...
Viktor von Domm wrote:Damn...just saw the end of that fiasco...
Dunno what it is with major European teams...would have loved to see a game between England and Germany...
Oh well, at least I can sit back and enjoy the rest of the World Cup as a neutral without any stress.. Plus England can claim to paly as well as the Spanish
Red Harvest wrote:Excellent work. I may have missed it where you told us your source for measurements etc? Are you working from a real Thunderbolt or something else?
Used the Eli Patoroch's templates as a basis for the measurements -they aren't perfect and now I'm on detail I refer to pics of real FW models...
Hopefully some more progress on the way tomorrow (Saturday...)
Red Harvest wrote:Thanks. Look forward to more progress. Maybe this'll inspire me to do something with the ones I started oh so long ago.
Go for it - you know you want to
Azazelx wrote:Holy crap - those scratchbuilds are fething insane! You're one seriously talented guy.
Cheers bud
Viktor von Domm wrote:Plus England can claim to paly as well as the Spanish
LOL....if we loose the next game.. Germany will be among you...
World Cup is so much better for me as a neutral... The Brazil v Chile penalties was nail biting tension - just don't see Brazil getting to the final... I'm still backing Holland vs Germany for the final although France or Colombia are my dark-horses... Argentina aren't quite firing yet but they'll get to the Semi's vs Holland
Yeah, I do want to finish them somehow. And build a kick-ass dropship. Maybe I'll combine the two.
Humble suggestion about the fuselage. Use filler as you go. I learned from mine that trying to fill and sand with all the tight angles and spaces was a PITA.
I want to see how you do those engine exhausts too.
This thread is brilliant! I'm thinking of starting scratch building some of my own stuff soon but I don't know where to get the materials. Where do you get your plastic card from?
Also; did you end up making that tutorial on how to hinge rhino doors, as I'd love to do the same to my SM vehicles (yeah I read the whole thread )
It's not often I can allow myself the luxury of looking around the forum; you can thank your signature link as well for my finding this thread. Exquisite work here thanks for sharing. Your first page reminded me I need to buy more 5/32 magnets.
STC_LogisEngine wrote:Now this one is comming along in a very fine way my dear sir, keep up the quality work for me to stare at.
Will do - thanks for staring
Red Harvest wrote:Yeah, I do want to finish them somehow. And build a kick-ass dropship. Maybe I'll combine the two.
Humble suggestion about the fuselage. Use filler as you go. I learned from mine that trying to fill and sand with all the tight angles and spaces was a PITA.
I want to see how you do those engine exhausts too.
FIller finally go some action today - finished the armour plating which covered most of the gaps, but noticed a few rough edges...
Exhausts... hmmm, yeah - that's the trickiest part I reckon - need to work myself up for that stage, but they will be done (and done well hopefully)
Dr H wrote:Nice work again, Ruglud.
Tail and cowl are both looking good.
Cheers Dr
Camkierhi wrote:Great stuff, the tail is spot on. Really can't wait to see this complete, awesome model.
Completion is still a long way off I fear- modelling time is severely reduced of late :(
Brother Payne wrote:This thread is brilliant! I'm thinking of starting scratch building some of my own stuff soon but I don't know where to get the materials. Where do you get your plastic card from?
Also; did you end up making that tutorial on how to hinge rhino doors, as I'd love to do the same to my SM vehicles (yeah I read the whole thread )
Thanks Brother Payne and welcome to the Plog. Plasticard and plastic rods/tubes all sourced via eBay from various sellers - I just look for the sizes I need at the time and go for the best price I can find.
Erm, no tutorial yet , haven't had the opportunity in the current builds, but maybe one day (just don't hold your breath ...)
MagosBiff90 wrote:Top atention to detail again mate! Really impressive work..... going to look awesome!
Cheers Magos
The_Blackadder wrote:It's not often I can allow myself the luxury of looking around the forum; you can thank your signature link as well for my finding this thread. Exquisite work here thanks for sharing. Your first page reminded me I need to buy more 5/32 magnets.
Thanks Blackadder - glad you stopped by. Your builds are always an inspiration to me, so am well pleased that you like what you see here
I too need to restock on magnets...
Soo.... While we wait for Germany vs Brazil I have some progress for you dear reader...
Asides from a touch of filler and finishing the armour plating (which i not really pictured here), I scratched out a couple of Las cannons for the nose and made the covering plates for the engine covers - need to work out now how to create the large segmented pipes that go from fuselage to engines - don't want to take the bendy straw option but wondering if a stretchy hairband would fit the bill??
Ruglud wrote: Soo.... While we wait for Germany vs Brazil
Brazil? Somebody might take offence from that...
Ruglud wrote: need to work out now how to create the large segmented pipes that go from fuselage to engines - don't want to take the bendy straw option but wondering if a stretchy hairband would fit the bill??
Have you thought about flexible cable conduits? Automotive or industrial uses have small bearings.
Ruglud wrote: Soo.... While we wait for Germany vs Brazil
Brazil? Somebody might take offence from that...
Ruglud wrote: need to work out now how to create the large segmented pipes that go from fuselage to engines - don't want to take the bendy straw option but wondering if a stretchy hairband would fit the bill??
Have you thought about flexible cable conduits? Automotive or industrial uses have small bearings.
Build looks great to date!
Germany vs. Argentina 'in Brazil'
Interesting game - very open... Germany with lions share of possession seem to be lacking the cutting edge in the final third. Argentina could have been in the lead easily with the Higuan scuffed chance...
Hmm, cable conduits - will have to google that and see
Progressing nicely. The autocannon mags look pretty good. How about a full frontal photo... of the plane. What else? I vaguelt remember some odd details there.
Been a while since I trod these halls properly... Sadly this summer has not given any hobby time, in fact the Ruglud household have just returned from three glorious weeks in central Florida, experiencing the many theme parks and other entertainment on offer...
On returning to the UK I've spent most of my time either at work or driving my brand new Mazda 6 - 300 miles done in one week, it's a great car to drive and very economical on fuel thus far
Spoiler:
Hopefully, I'll be back to some hobby work in a week or so... Watch this space...