Blood bowl team
This christmas me and my brother got a blood bowl box. He took the orks, and I took the humans. Sadly my neck was injured so i had to watch all of my dudes being blue for months, unable to paint them . That did give me a lot of time to think about my colour scheme though. In the end I decided to go for a challenge and paint them in the colours of my country, Croatia. What gave me the idea was the shield shaped armour on the back of every human team member that looks exactly as our coat of arms. Every step of painting the model was either difficult, or time consuming. The first step was basecoating (seems simple right?), but even this had its complications. You see, the unpainted miniature is blue. My base coat was a slightly different shade of blue. This made it difficult to see if a surface was painted or not! At least shading the blue cloth went smoothly, though that too took some time as i prefer to shade using glazes. After that was done came the next problem. White. As you all know, white isn't the most painter friendly colour, and it took me at least 4 thin coats to paint something white. Painting the squares was surprisingly easy, as long as you have a steady hand and thin your paint down just enough so that it flows, you shouldn't be afraid of trying it out. Shading those squares however, was not. Choosing the right colour to shade both white and red was very important. Black wasn't going to work, it's just too dark to shade white, and the red turning into brown doesn't work for me. So I decided to work with very thin glazes of fenrisian grey. The effect is very subtle as I feared darkening my white and red too much, and you can't really highlight red or white. There is only one other thing worth noting on this model, (the rest was also painted with care, but I don't think talking about how I painted, shaded and highlighted the rest of the miniature is all that interesting) and that is the coat of arms on the back. It was what gave me the idea for the squares, but in the end I didn't end up painting any on it! It is because there were already a lot of them on the model and it wouldn't look good if one of the most important areas looked exactly the same as the rest of the model. Luckily the croatian coat of arms has a crown that is made of 5 other coats of arms, so I just took one of those and slaped it on there. I will be getting a light tent soon, so I'll be able to post better pictures, but for now enjoy these ones.
The blitzer was done similarly to the catcher, but due to the difference in armour size on the chest, the shirt was painted white, and the squares were moved to the armour plates. The coat of arms on the back has 4 by 5 squares instead of 5 by 5 due to the size of the shield like armour plate - 5 by 5 was simply too small. Luckily this isn't a problem as the number of squares varied through history. The boots were also painted red as it fits with the overall colour scheme better. For the sake of consistency the other catcher will have leather boots as well.
WIP lineman. I really wish I could change my NMM gold, but consistency is more important. This is my first time trying it, and the results have been pretty good, but there is plenty of room for improvement.
The model is still WIP but the coat of arms is done. I'm sorry for the quality of the image, but I had no choice but to zoom in digitaly. This isn't even the tiniest annimal I have to do for my team (the next coat of arms I will be doing has 3 lion heads).
I changed the NMM gold recipe and I am happy with the result. I wanted to have a consistent team, but honestly I could feel my hair turning grey when I tried to do less than my best. This was really important to me because now I feel like I can paint any commission and am not afraid that I will have to turn any customer down.
Something a bit different this time. A dark vengeance commission on tabletop level finally came through so I have to put my blood bowl team on hold for now. Managed to paint two of them for now and basecoat another one. This actually takes a really long time as I currently don't own an airbrush, will buy one as soon as I save up the money. This commission was paid for entirely in miniatures, that just so happen to be chaos that I collect, so I will one day paint them as best I can and post them here. This probably won't be happening soon though, as I already have an ambitious project planned for a land raider, have to finish this commission, another one after it and of course the blood bowl team. But for now enjoy these completely average terminators.
The tactical marines are done. I would have liked if they didn't come preassembled, it made painting some areas difficult. They are nothing amazing, but anyone that has a fully painted army on this level should be very proud. Only the captian and the librarian remain, and they are already underway.
Next week I will again be doing a commission, a space wolf drop pod, but until then I will be working on my blood bowl team. This is the fifth member of the team, and he is a bit different than the others. I finally decided to increase the contrast, meaning that I shaded with an even darker colour. The reason I didn't do this on all other team members is because if I make a mistake I can't really correct it. I can shade down the white and red with one colour, but I can't return to those two colours with a single colour.
That is the seventh one. All the 5 coats of arms forming the crown of the Croatian coat of arms are done. That means that for the rest I will have to think of something else. The next one will be my own family coat of arms, and after that I guess I'll use various city ones.
Got no pictures for you this time. But there are some good news. To celebrate the release of 8th edition I'm giving 20% discount to all dark imperium commissions. Please do check out how much it would cost you, it really is dirt cheap.
This is a model that I did using wet blending instead of the usual glazing that I do. There are a few spots that have too thick paint due to me not being used to painting with that techniqe, and the yellow also did not turn out perfect. I do have to say that I do feel very proud despite this. If a model looks like this when I use out of my comfort zone techniqe so I can improve, how will a model look when it turns out perfect? Also I'm sorry there is only one pic, I had some trouble with the lighting.
Just wanted to say that I'm still very active and will continue to paint and post pictures of my work. That said right now I'm changing my internet provider so for the time being I'm unable to post pictures, but that will change soon. I also wanted to thank everyone that has been folowing my work. Your interest is what drives me to paint even when I don't feel like it, and helps me get better results.
First time doing non metalic silver. Happy with the result. Soon I will post a guide on how to do these guys and after that I will take a brake from painting blood bowl. I will instead be painting a stormblade I got in a trade. It will be freehand heavy.
Stormblade WIP. Whenever you see a freehand on a vehicle it's always stunning, acurate and beautiful. And while that's nice and all, I feel like it's not representative of the imperium at large, many of its worlds are still in the middle ages. Those people want to decorate moving cathedrals of death too!
Painted on two more minor freehands, the first is a strange dragon thing, and the second one is my family heraldry. Painted the barrels at the back of the model, I added a bit of texture to it and used a not so smooth transition for the shading to add to the imperfect feel the medieval art adds to the model. I hope it works. I will go back to the barrels to work on the gold a little more and add a few scratches. Painted a lot of metal too, but at this stage it's nothing interesting. Once I paint the whole thing I will add a glossy finish to it and then paint the cannon and add all the OSL effects.
A guide on how to make tyranid/alien eggs quickly and easily.
You will need
I've also added some sand, but you can use any other basing material you like.
Step one - open and eat the peanuts
Step two - glue them on to the base
Step three - add more PVA glue around the peanut shells, otherwise they won't stick
Step four - paint everything
A good paintjob can add a great deal of life to the eggs. That said I didn't paint these ones all too great because I don't play tyranids and I was just looking to give you some inspiration.
Since the alien egg thing was so well recived I decided to do something similar. I looked around the house for any garbage I could turn into a usefull model. In the end I cut up a few plastic bottles, the remains of a ruined drop pod, a non functional ventilator that used to be in my computer, some green stuff and plastic glue. What I got is the start of an ork airship/zeppelin. I think it turned out great, you can easily replicate it and it will cost you almost nothing. I'm not quite sure how good the rest of it will look since I've never really scratch built anything, but even if it doesn't work out you can at least use the idea for the baloon.
Its a great start..I have quite a soft spot for all things airship related...the chopped up bottle idea is a good idea...you should plan on how many minis are supposed to travel by it...thus the needed scale of gondola and so on will unreveal...
For my imps I've thought about using 2 litre bottles...but I have to say I started already three attempts of building o e airship...and haven't finished any...
The propeller unfortunatley fell off. But that's ok, it was facing the wrong way anyway. I reattached it using more green stuff this time, it's firmly in place this time. I scratched the bottles with sanding paper so paint sticks to it and put an ork head icon on the fron of the baloon for extra orkyness.
The actual "ship" part of the airship was made of cut up paper on which I put chopped up paper bits for extra thickness and orkyness. I put up a fence using a chopped up defkopta propeler and paper. On the bottom of the "ship" I glued the rest of the defkopta to represent a rotating turret. I made sure there was a hole in the "ship" so the ork could actualy enter the turret while the zeppelin is in the air. All that is left is to connect the two parts together. If I like the end result I will put an ork capitan and a wooden wheel so he can fly the thing.
Viktor von Domm wrote: Its a great start..I have quite a soft spot for all things airship related...the chopped up bottle idea is a good idea...you should plan on how many minis are supposed to travel by it...thus the needed scale of gondola and so on will unreveal...
For my imps I've thought about using 2 litre bottles...but I have to say I started already three attempts of building o e airship...and haven't finished any...
I am primarily doing this project to show people that this hobby doesn't have to be expensive (I'd say all the materials for this model cost 10$ tops) and that the result will arguably look better than the store bought thing, since it will be a one of a kind. That said, if you're having trouble completing your own projects, I would be happy to make a few zeppelin for you (if you like the result that is).
I'm sad to announce that my zeppelin project had to be scraped . The thing just wasn't structurally sound. I did, however, learn a lot and if I went ahead and tried to make another one it would be better visually, structurally and would be cheaper as well, since it wouldn't need any green stuff to build. I don't know if I have the will to do it though... What I really need right now is some encouragement. I'd be happy to give away my creation to anyone that wants it as long as they cover the shipping.
Sorry to hear you had to scrap your airship, it was looking cool. If you don't end up giving it away, maybe you can re-purpose parts of it. If you take the deff kopta turret off the bottom (cool idea btw), I think the gondola part would be a great start for an ork truck. That nice glyph should definitely be used again too.
To build your Ork zeppelin you will need:
-2 half litre plastic bottles, as featureless as possible
-cereal box paper
-glue 3 layers of cardboard together and cut out a shape for your gondola.
-cut out a two sided fence for each side of the gondola out of cereal box paper
Make the fence spiky and glue it to the sides of the gondola
Cut out random shapes from the cereal box paper and glue them ot the fence and both sides of the gondola
Cut off the "head" of the bottle and cut the bottles' bottom. You can shorten it from there with scissors depending on how long you want the baloon to be. Do the exact same on the other bottle, only on this one make 2 v sshaped incisions on opposite sides of the bottle.
Insert one bottle into the other using the v shaped incisions and glue them together. Plug both openings with cereal paper and add any icons you want on one side.
Make 4 holes in the edges of the gondola. Pull some string through them. Tie the ends together.
Glue the strings to the baloon. Once it's in place, glue cut up pieces of an old T-shirt onto the baloon.
Mix some PVA glue with water. Use an old brush to apply this mixture to the edges of the T-shirt pieces to stop them from flopping around. If you want you could apply this mixture to the whole baloon, so that it would act more than plastic when you are painting it. Glue the propeler onto the other end of the baloon (only bit used, but I'm sure you can figure something out if you don't have it).
Add crew member with apropriate weapons to represent any ork flyer on the table. You can also make it look prettier with bitz if you have any. The whole thing doesn't cost even 5$ to make, and for the most part, can be made by your kids as well (if you trust them around scissors ).Stay tuned to see it painted!
Cool, thanks for making a tutorial. I'll have to try this sometime. I like your suggestion about letting kids do it, a lot of my students have fallen in love with 40k because of me, they would love this!
I have some good news and some bad news. The good news is that I won some bits from STUDIOLEVEL and they could help me make the Ork Zeppelin enven better! The bad news is that a piece of my airbrush broke in the most akward position possible, so replacement parts won't help and I have to get a new one. This also means that the painting of the Ork Zeppelin will be delayed as some of its surfaces have to be painted by an airbrush rather than a brush. That said some orks were painted! Enjoy!
Managed to resolve all my airbrush problems, so there is finally progress on the zeppelin! Since the gondola is made of paper that has some texture I decided it would be best to make it rusty, so that the texture would work for me instead of against me. Painted it in a darker rust colour and the dabbed a brighter rusty colour onto the model with a sponge. Then I applied a heavy drybrush of a metallic colour, especially on the edges where there is more wear and tear - the rust tends to get scraped off there.
The balloon, which was painted in a dark brown, was highlighted and shaded with an airbrush despite my setting being on the low end. This is because I wasn't sure how fabric would react to paint by brush. I thought it would be impossible to have any kind of transition if I painted by a brush. The airbrush brought its own set of problems though. I won't go into the specifics but highlighting with brighter colours just didn't look very good because of the way the fabric reacted to the paint. So I ended highlighting with a mix of the base brown, red and a bit of white, just for the colour variation. The shades worked well, I used a very dark shade of blue.
And here is the finished product. Couldn't put it in a lightbox so I had to use daylight and unfortunatley it isn't very sunny this time of year, so I apologise for he quality of the pictures. Not that it's something too impresive to look at. The materials it is made of aren't of the highest quality so I decided not to put too much work into the paintjob. I am putting quite a lot of effort into the crew, which is being worked on at the moment. Now that the project is 100% complete I do have a few tips that can help you improove on my design, should you choose to make one yoursefl.
- Use chains glued solid with superglue instead of string
- Cut out smaller pieces of fabric than I did and start from the edges and then move towards the middle.
- Use plenty of PVA glue in the water-PVA glue mix and use multiple coats.
- When painting the baloon, paint it first in your highlight colour, then shade it down. Fabric does not react well to brighter colours.
First member of the crew. Had a really difficult time taking pictures of him since he doesn't have a base, but hopefuly you can see the work I put into him on at least one picture. I'll have my brother re-take the pictures later, he's a much better photographer than I am. He turned out pretty great. Did some experimenting with using opposite colours for shading. The red shade works nicely with the green, but I didn't like the purple I used for shading the ushabti bone. The bright yelloww highlight on the skin also worked out. I also tried the loaded brush techniqe on the big shoota for the first time and I like the results. Will deffinently try using it more often in the future.
kestral wrote: Neat stuff! The Dance of Death on the stormblade is awesome - I may well steal that idea or something similar. Love your variety of subjects and styles.
Thank you! And more variety and styles comming right up with more crew members. Different skin tones, leather colour, teeth colour, lip colour, bulet colour and two different styles of rusty metal. I think I will do one more, then wait for some bits to come, upgrade the zeppelin with them, and add a capitan. In between that will probably be another human blood bowl blitzer. He will be pretty much the same as the rest of them, only I will try out a new NMM gold recipe and try to blend it using the loaded brush techniqe.
The ork zeppelin project is now complete. Hopefuly the pictures are good enough for you to see all this, the size of the model as well as the shadow that it casts on itself made it difficult to take good pictures. I used white paper and multiple light sources to take these. I think it would be best if I took pictures with regular daylight, but this time of year it isn't very bright out, even at noon. I hope that those of you that want to replicate this can learn on my mistakes and upgrade the formula, as well as add your own twist. Next up is a christmas themed ork that I'm doing for a competition.
WIP pic of a christmas ork I'm doing for a small competition. I decided that pink highlights would work well, considering the theme. Originally I wanted the ork to hold a present, but all the hands in a holding positions I had were left. So I made him hold some candy and a snow globe instead, since that's about all I can do with green stuff. I might still put a present on the base. The ball on the hat turned out well I think. I used a toothpick and tweezers to make that texture. What do you think of it so far?
Chaos cultist. I went for a military green main colour as I imagine all gas masks in this colour. The rest of the model I painted in dreary, non vibrant colours as cultists are people that don't really want to be noticed. The eye lenses were painted red for maximum contrast, and to draw the eye to the face. Finaly the base was covered in black and grey gravel and pools of drty waste water to make it look like he is in an enviroment that requires a gas mask and to not take the focus away from the model.
Also here is a little WIP of a 54mm scale project, first time painting this scale. Will soon be painting my first 75mm model as well, a horse by El Greco miniatures as a christmas present for my dad, it will represent his much love childhood horse Dragan.
Just a quick WIP of a cultist. Usually I wouldn't make a post for a half completed puny cultist, but I think that he looks pretty cool even now. I admit that I should have used a brighter highlight though, all that blending and it barely shows. I'm pretty proud of how the green shadows turned out though. This is the first mostly naked human model I've painted and I've learned a lot about painting skin when painting it.
Here is the finished cultist. I brightened up the highlights on the skin with a glaze and it worked like a charm. I should have thinned the glaze a bit more though, it made the transitionn slightly less smooth in some places. For the pants and the boots I tried to get a worn out effect, but I think I only managed to do it properly on the boots. I really like how the leather turned out. For the metal parts I painted them in chainmail and then used layers of black wash all the way to pure black. I think it worked out great both on the pistol and the blade, but you can see the effect more easily on the blade.
Sorry for the long wait. I painted a comission of two 3d printed models for DnD made by Hero forge. Basicaly you make your adventurer on their site and they print it out for you. While the creation process is very fun, the price is way too high and the models aren't very good. You can clearly see that they were 3d printed upon a closer look. For now I have the pictures for only one guy. I delivered them to the customer pretty much as soon as I was done with them, so I didn't have much time to take good pictures. I'll put them up once I tweak the brightness just so you can get a good look at the model. For now here is the halfling mage:
I finished this geenstealer using only Instar paints. I have been hired by the paint manufacturer, Supershandy, to paint this model and a few others using exclusively his paints so he can upload examples of what his paints can do onto his website and to give you and him some feedback.
Venturing into 54mm scale waters. A dark background would work much better for this model, since it's meant to be 2 pirates in a barrel at night with a lamp, but the pictures simply turn out better with a white background. If anyone has the photoshop skills to put a moonlit ocean as the backround I'd be grateful.
Finished another model with instar paints, this time a Tau Fire Warrior. This model turned out great, although I would change a few things if I were to do it all over again. I would probbably make the backpack yellow and brown, and not blue. I would also weather the rifle at least a little bit.
I forget the technical term at the moment, but I'm really impressed with how you painted the lantern and its light hitting various parts of your pirate model. I also really like the idea had of the medieval style art on the tank with the skeletons walking with a space marine and a bishop.
Thanks! I'll be painting some Kingdom Death: Monster models for a friend of mine eventually, so you'll get to see me do Object source lighting again in the future, though I'll take a slightly different approach as I did learn a few things about it along the way to make it better.
First of three chaos marines for this month's unoffical painting challenge. Now that I've got the colour scheme figured out the other guys should turn out better and be easier to paint. It's been a very challenging paintjob because of the crowdedness of the sculpt and the fact that his line doesn't have a bright silver yet, so the metal had to be done in NMM.
The model is done, but these aren't the final photos as I will be basing the model and use better photograpy to take the pictures again. I would definently want to put some more work into him, especialy on the bolter. The race is on to finish the last guy.
Unfortunately the pilot is the only infinity model I have. It was a Christmas present from my brother, he's trying to get me to play it, but I'm pretty adamant about not buying more stuff before I paint what I already have. I've got some warmachine stuff I could paint. I could finish te blood bowl team I started painting. A few old crysis suits. A friend of mine has Kingdom death monster and I intend on painting some models for him as a favour. Lastly I recently won a giveaway of a model intended for an RPG, it's some sort of tribal African girl, but I don't know when it's going to arrive.
Syro_ wrote: Not buying more stuff before painting what you have is admirable, something many of us should try to follow better than we do. My vote is for crysis suits or the kingdom death monster.
I was going to paint some KDM like you suggested, but this months' unofficial painting challenge theme didn't really reflect those models, so I went with a menoth cinerator, sorry!
Not buying more stuff isn't as admirable as you might think, since I can't really afford a lot of models anyway, and also I haven't really played a game of anything tabletop related in a long time since I also refuse to play with an unpainted army, whilst at the same time trying to paint every model to a high standard .
Here are the WIP pics. The NMM gold turned out great, the silver, not so much. I'll have to redo it into steel. I'll also have to find a way to get rid of the gloss from the purple.
What do you guys think of the white? Do you register the model as white? That's always tricky since the base colour is actually a bright grey.
Hey it's no problem . It was only a suggestion, you should paint what you want to. I don't think either of us knew what this month's unofficial painting challenge would be. The model is looking cool, and to my eye it looks silver, but a very light white-ish silver.
WIP, quick pic. Painted the first arm. Glazing instead of wet blending the white produced much better transitions. That said the highlight transitions were much better, from now on I will use 2 shades instead of one. Also I just now noticed that I missed a gem, will get right on it.
WIP of a second cinerator. Just a quick pic, so the picture quality isn't the greatest. Did a little more work on the base this time. I used a brighter mid colour this time, a bit too bright in my oppinion.
Done. I hope you like it. I rushed a few things, but overall the model came out pretty good. Overall i have a much better idea of how to paint white than I did before. Also I learned that warmachine sculpts are pretty bad. Tons of mould lines in places that are difficult to reach and straight up unforgivable mistakes that make it difficult to determine what you're even looking at.
Finally got around to painting dragan the horse, I bought it as a present for my dads' birthday. It is supposed to represent his dear childhood horse, Dragan. I tried to simulate horse hair as best I could, and I think I did pretty well. Unfortunatley I didn't manage to take pictures that truly capture how the model looks like in real life, as can often be the case for completely white models. Now I just need to get a plinth and mount him so he can be displayed.
I wish I cleaned up the model before I started working on it. I think it turned out okay. I deffinently could have put in some extra work into it. I tried out a new gold recipie and I think I like it, though the execution on the aqila ceritanly could have been better.
I painted this model as an experiment on how to paint a model at night. I have, unfortunately, completely failed, but I think I learned a few valuable lessons:
1. Start with a mix of your shadow colour and your base colour, rather than your base colour
2. Use your base colour as your "highlight"
3. A much larger portion of the model should be covered in shadow
4. Use a different shade of dark blue for the shadow (on the pallete the paint looked much more blue and much less purple than it does on the model)
This time I think I nailed it. The fire is awful in every way, it's too dark and was clearly sculpted by a 2 year old (me), but I belive I have managed to create a sense of darkness and that's what the core of this project was. Your thoughts? Did I succed or am I just imagining things?
More KDM, and more low light environment models. I think I should have put some more work into the mane, but I'm pretty proud of how I managed to simulate fur texture. Will deffinently use that again in the future.
I agree with you. The fur simulation is very effective and must have been hard to pull off, especially with the low-light environment effects on the lion's body. If anything the mane is probably jarring because the body is so good Nicely done!
I think that this is probably the best model I've ever painted. My biggest challenge was figuring out how to do smooth blends on this particular model. While I've done blending in many ways before, typicaly I paint smaller models with much less circular highlights. After trying wet blending, loaded brush, layering and glazing, the only thing that worked for me was to very gradualy add more and more yellow into my glazes and then feather it out to the side. Anything else resulted in blends that weren't smooth, or left brush marks. The NMM parts were done by painting them black first, and then using the loaded brush techniqe with a dark blue in the brush and pure white on the tip. For the smaller metal parts I used simple layering. All of this was done in a very messy and uncontroled manner to make the metal look more rough, unpolished, and to save time. One of these days I'm going to have to get a model to try and paint to a showcase standard - to give my very best with no corners cut.
I started work on a Gold smoke knight, another kingdom death: monster model. I decided that I'm gonna strip it down unfortunately, even though it wasn't looking all that bad. I had problems creating smooth blends, neither wet blending nor glazing seemed to be working. I got it all figured out now though, I finally figured out how to get rid of the brush marks when glazing. It's a great feeling, getting rid of a mental blockade. Up until now I've been painting much smaller models, and my techniqes didn't seem to be working on larger surfaces. Turns out all I had to do was feather the brush marks to the side with a damp brush.
Syro_ wrote: Very impressive! That's a big but very smooth gradient transition on pieces like the shoulder and chest.
Thanks! Now that these two models have taught me what works and what doesn't on models of this size, I'll be able to create even smoother blends, and in less time.
Last christmas I got 2 zvezda 1/100 scale tanks as well as some plasticard for my brother so that he could make them into grot tanks. I've been nagging him to start converting them for a long time now, and I finally gave up and decided to do it myself. Here is the result. I had plans that were a bit more ambitious than this at first, but the plasticard that I got was way too thick - 3mm - it was the only one available in the hobby shop at the time. And as always, please do use this as inspiration for your own versions, I'm not a particulary skilled converter and would like to see how my idea would look like if it was done with someone with actual skill.
Finished. Must say that I'm not happy at all with the results, especially since this is for a friend. I guess it's okay, but I was aiming for much higher than this. I got arrogant and lazy, thinking that using some of the new tricks I learned from my last paintjob (infinity guijia) that I simply did not use enough colour mixes and that resulted in less than stellar blends.
I am finished with the body for now and will be moving onto the hands and weapons now. There are a few places that need touch up, but right now I don't have the will to tend to them, I think working on the shield will re-energise me. I will be painting my family crest onto it. Not exactly historical, but who cares. The silver on the back of the helmet look amazing in my oppinion, but the front of the helmet - not so much. From what I've been able to figure out, the contrast for NMM needs to be reduced on models of this scale, or at least that's true for flat silver surfaces. The gold (horns) turned out poorly, I haven't yet been able to figure out exactly what I'm doing wrong though.
My teutonic knight is almost done. There are some mistakes that I will need to correct, but I've decided to upload these pictures now because the camera I usually use to take pictures is not currently available and a have to use a sub par one, so the pictures were never going to be perfect anyway. I will be uploading the corrected versions later, so bear with me. There were many problems that I had to deal with when painting this, but at the very least I would say that it's pretty good for my first 90mm scale project, wouldn't you say?
Still a great looking knight. I miss the flamboyant, symbolic helmets on warriors. Too many these days are "efficient". What about the weathering was troubling? The knight just looks a little worn, like after a long trek or battle.
Originaly I intended to just put a few spots of pigment here and there, but when I went to fix them in place theymelted and became similar to a regular wash. I must have used too much pigment fixer. To top it off, the pigment fixer has alcohol in it so the paint actually started comming off! I narowly avioded disaster there.
Nothing like that unfortunately. It's just suppose to be a drone sneaking through an industrial waste line so he can ambush some imperials. I've been itching to paint this sort of light and shadow play for a while, only my original idea was to have light blocked by the leaves of a tree. Unfortunately I didn't have a model that looked "ordinary" enough to look good under this effect (I don't want details to take the forus away from the effect), nor did I have something to make a tree out of. So I rummaged through my models to find the most "ordinary" looking model and found this drone. As far as materials to make a diorama out of I didn't have anything interesting other than some cork board and paperclips. So I came up with this.
One of the few Warmachine models that I actually like and haven't painted earlier, though it has its problems. The colours on the picture aren't very accurate, this is the first time I've managed my red to look 100% red and not a bit darker. Still a WIP clearly.
Horse is done, other than a few spots where I still need to do some dark lining. I could have made the metalics look a lot better if I'm totaly honest, but even like this this paintjob took a lot of time and I don't have the energy for it. Maybe if the sculpt was a little better I would feel compeled to do it.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Another quick WIP pic:
Thanks for your wishes. Too bad it didn't come to be.
There are still more members to be added, but 12 is enough for a team. There are some projects I've been wanting to do for a while so this wil have to wait.
Painted the first Deadzone model donated to me by Denny. Trying out a new colour. Oh, and sorry about the unsymetrical radiation sign. I know I should have simply printed it, but my printer can't print colours and I was too lazy to walk across the street and have it printed there. Lastly, I would very much apreciate it if you would tell me your opinion on this. What do you think is better? This model, or the Man-O-War I painted earlier? I don't know which one to enter into this months unofficial painting competition.
So I've got a bunch of stuff I want to basecoat and prime with my airbrush, but it's been raining every other day for the past 2 weeks so the humidity is too high to use an airbrush... It's summer! Why does this keep happening!?!?
I learnded a couple of valuable lessons while painting this model, but am sad to say that I failed in pretty much everything I was trying to achieve with this model. I will be finishing it for the sake of completion. Oh well.
Though I am not happy with how a lot of things turned out, I am at least satisfied with the gun. I will probably move him to a base that "reflects " what's painted on the base a little better and use this one as terrain.
Disclamer: a client had painted most of the legs on this model and based it himself. The rest is painted by me to match the same style/colour scheme as much as possible.
My first commission in a while! The client is very happy with the result. It's painted to a tabletop quality. Seeing a model of this size painted in 3 days look this good makes me want to paint more tabletop quality things, since it takes that much for me to paint an infantry model to my usual standard .
Part of a diorama, he will be facing a dragon. As far as the previously announced stalker diorama is concerned, I've decided to scrap the transmission tower idea. I have finished painting the model itself, but I've decided to enter it into a local competition, and one of its rules is that I'm not allowed to post it anywhere until the competition is done.
My diorama did end up winning the People's choice! I am a bit dissapointed about the judges not giving it an award also, but i suppose they know better than me and I just have to try harder next time.
This model took an absurdly long time to paint. I will be adjusting the colour scheme a bit to increase contrast.
Painted for a client. They are not yet based because the client wanted to do it himself, so I apologise for that. They are still technically waiting for his aprooval, but I expect no issues, very minor changes at worst.
Worked a lot on this guy. Not quite satisfied with the contrast on some places, but very satisfied with the smooth blends on others. Also the pictures aren't the best, usually my brother takes them, and he's out of town at the moment.
I created my page about painting miniatures a while back, and am very happy to have an audience, however small, to watch at the work that I do. The growth of my page has been much slower than I hoped though, and it is clear that I must make some changes. Up until now my plan has always been to paint the best miniature that I can, and hopefuly it would blow everyone away. But, as my skill grew, so too did I realise just how inferior my paintjobs were to many talented painters out there. So, my plan now is to post WIP-s in adition to my finished works, in hopes that I can recieve feedback by you wonderfull people, and so that I can explain my process in depth to anyone who is interested.
Yesterday I made the playground and was quite happy with how it turned out. Today I decided that it looked a bit too happy considering it is supposed to be the forgoten remains of a blasted civilisation. The simplest way to fix this was to change the ambience to something darker, so I airbrushed some Night blue onto the whole thing, then airbrushed some white to represent moonlight and reinforced the blue again in some areas. I added some broken glass shards to make the piece a bit less empty and finaly painted and glued the kid. For the kid I imagined two sources of light: a weak one comming from above representing moonlight, and a stronger one comming from below representing moonlight bouncing from the snow and ice. All of the colours on the kid had some Night blue mixed into them to sell the ambience efect. I think that it turned out great, I was honestly quite surprised to see how the pictures turned out. My brother tried some new photography techniques too, and it is safe to say we will be using them again in the future.
Sorry for not posting in such a long time. I haven't managed to arrange any commissions this summer so I setled on a summer job and thus haven't been able to paint anything. Hopefuly this makes up for it.
This blog will nog go through a short period of radio silence. Models are being painted (and one is already done) for a local painting competition, the rules of which forbid me to post any entries untill it starts. Once this period ends though, you will be treated to some of the best work ever posted to this blog!
Just something to kill the time. Don't have the money to get the models I want to paint right now sadly. Not something I put too much effort into but I did learn a lot from it, so I call that a success.
OSL and night time experiment (again). Turned out pretty good. I edited a black background for this picture, but for some reason it dakkadakka (and other sites) recognise them as the same picture and refuse to allow both of them to be up at the same time, so you will have to imagine the black background.
My next project. Looking great so far, very happy with the fur. I managed to create a fur with a lot of colour and variance. It was really simple to do, very gradual back and forth drybrushing untill I was satisfied with the position and intensity of the highlights. After that it was a matter of slowly adding shadows with thin washes, feathering them out to get a smooth transition.
It turns out that there is a lot of work to be done on this model. The fur and the red armor did not take too much time, but there is a surprising amount of detail that needs doing on this model, and getting it done takes a lot of time and patience. Still, at this point you can basicaly see what the model will look like when it's done, and I think I like what I see. What's your take?
Thank you. I had intended to paint a lot this weekend, but unfortunately due to quite a serious earthquake hitting my area I don't have anything to show you today. Not that I'm complaining, a lot of people are dealing with actual problems and not minor inconveniences like mine because of it.
Managed to catch some time for painting, this is what I've got so far. I'm going to be adding some freckles by splattering paint off a brush (hopefuly this won't ruin the entire model) so I didn't paint the eyes first like I usualy do. This turned out to be a mistake, without the eyes painted it became extremely difficult to estimate if the face looks natural. I remembered I have some masking liquid so I'm going to go ahead and paint the eyes, it's a good opurtunity to try this liquid mask thing out.
JustALittleOrkish wrote:The freckles look great. They really elevate this to the next level
aku-chan wrote:Love the freckles, they're making the skin look even more realistic.
Thanks, I was really nervous before I did them. Much like the freckles here is an effect I am also doing for the first time. I'm not done with any of these newly painted areas by the way, I was just impatient and jumped all over the place with my painting. It's not 100% family friendly so I'll hide it under a spoiler.