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Good colour by colour review:





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I am 100% for these paints existing and I'm sure lots of people will be helped by them. Just like when acrylic shades first started being a pre made product (rather than inks you need to mix with medium yourself).

My hope for any new painter is that they quickly realize that going with *just* contrast isn't as good as going with a combination. Stormcast in Hammers of SIgmar scheme, for example, would be great if the yellow was replaced with wyldwood and then actual gold painted on the raised brown areas after. Wyldwood is also a great "learn to highlight" colour as it really leaves the raised edges brigther so it shows you where to paint the gold.

And that combination of nuln oil and contrast medium Kris Belleau showed in that one video is probably the best all over wash product available right now. So good.

Just watching the Hang out and Contrast and Bascilicanum Grey over Leadbelcher does look nice.

I expect most new painters will quickly realise that, just like any other skill, you need to invest time in practice and research to get truly good. However, I do think that the minis that a novice will produce with contrast paint will look better than my first attempts did nearly 40 years ago.

 frozenwastes wrote:
Good colour by colour review:

Spoiler:

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 Ghaz wrote:

Spoiler:

I am not sure I understand the basis to the video because I didn't think that the Contrast medium was designed to mix with non-contrast paint. I thought it was designed specifically to mix and be the medium for only Contrast paint. Was there a discussion, belief or understanding that contrast medium would somehow make non-contrast paint become similar to contrast paint?

Yes, GW has said that the Contrast medium won't make a normal paint into a Contrast paint. Still, people will want to experiment and see what results they can achieve with the Contrast paints and medium.

I felt the same as you when I viewed this and other videos. You're correct, the contrast medium was designed for the contrast paints.

I don't care for the way some of these reviewers use items developed for a specific use and then "meh" on the outcome.

The value in videos like this though, are that they're doing some of the mad science for us.

I liked the IG heads and Tau rifles best. I was planning to just buy every color immediately. His talk-through and side by side really let me form my own opinion of which colors I wanted to try immediately, which I could get late if needed, and a few I probably would never buy.

 Undead_Love-Machine wrote:

 frozenwastes wrote:
Good colour by colour review:

Spoiler:

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Thanks for that, it helped me decide which paints I'm going to purchase.

Strange that Cygor Brown and the dark purple colour are so dark, there really isn't much contrast there at all

I think that 25% contrast medium would probably just push them in the right direction. Maybe even up to a third of the medium.

It's also possible that the best results will involve different techniques for different colours. Perhaps the cygor brown needs to be applied and then you take it off all the raised areas with a barely damp brush? Like how pooling needs to be removed before it dries for a lot of the colours?


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 Dark Severance wrote:

 Ghaz wrote:

Spoiler:

I am not sure I understand the basis to the video because I didn't think that the Contrast medium was designed to mix with non-contrast paint. I thought it was designed specifically to mix and be the medium for only Contrast paint. Was there a discussion, belief or understanding that contrast medium would somehow make non-contrast paint become similar to contrast paint?

Just that all paint is solvent, binder, pigment and additives. So if you've got the solvent, binder and additives in the medium, why not try different pigment sources? I actually think it does a reasonable job turning other paint into a sort of contrast paint. If you have a turquoise and contrast medium and want to do a verdigris rust on some copper or bronze, why not give it a go? I guess you could get an entire bottle of that specific technical paint, but if you know how the mediums behave and just need to do one little detail like that, it's a a good skill to have.

Miniac is on point, these aint gonna be a magical "get my army painted" they advertised it as. It is still gonna take time and effort to make them look passible, and I think we are gonna be a deluges of "Contrast only" armies that look like ass.

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Miniac is on point, these aint gonna be a magical "get my army painted" they advertised it as. It is still gonna take time and effort to make them look passible, and I think we are gonna be a deluges of "Contrast only" armies that look like ass.

What a tragedy that we'll have to deal with that instead of the usual 'grey plastic only' we see. Or the 'no contrast, still looks like ass because painting sucks and I hate it but it's 3 colors so screw off', which is my personal favorite.

Contrast will make some armies look less ass, faster. That's why it's cool.

Grey plastic is better than badly painted IMO

 Flagg07 wrote:
I liked the IG heads and Tau rifles best. I was planning to just buy every color immediately. His talk-through and side by side really let me form my own opinion of which colors I wanted to try immediately, which I could get late if needed, and a few I probably would never buy.

I liked that video, too, but it was also somewhat flawed in that he only used one of the primers, Grey Seer, for all of the tests rather than also using Wraithbone to show how that affects the colors.
I definitely appreciate that a lot of these people are doing the experimentation for us.

 frozenwastes wrote:
Good colour by colour review:





Automatically Appended Next Post:
I am 100% for these paints existing and I'm sure lots of people will be helped by them. Just like when acrylic shades first started being a pre made product (rather than inks you need to mix with medium yourself).

My hope for any new painter is that they quickly realize that going with *just* contrast isn't as good as going with a combination. Stormcast in Hammers of SIgmar scheme, for example, would be great if the yellow was replaced with wyldwood and then actual gold painted on the raised brown areas after. Wyldwood is also a great "learn to highlight" colour as it really leaves the raised edges brigther so it shows you where to paint the gold.

And that combination of nuln oil and contrast medium Kris Belleau showed in that one video is probably the best all over wash product available right now. So good.

Interesting and useful video. He should do the other primer (Wraithbone) as well- it should affect some of the colors fairly significantly.

I'm amused that Ahkelian Green is what I thought it was- a blue.

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Grey plastic is better than badly painted IMO

Your opinion is wrong in this case.

 Hulksmash wrote:

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Grey plastic is better than badly painted IMO

Your opinion is wrong in this case.

Takes all sorts I suppose. Personally I would rather see someone make an attempt at doing White Scars with Tipp-Ex and magic markers than grey plastic but chacun a son goute.

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Grey plastic is better than badly painted IMO

Sounds like a personal problem.

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Grey plastic is better than badly painted IMO

‘I’d rather someone not even bother if they aren’t good at painting, rather than try their best’.

I mean, really?

 ImAGeek wrote:

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Grey plastic is better than badly painted IMO

‘I’d rather someone not even bother if they aren’t good at painting, rather than try their best’.

I mean, really?

I know right?

It’s almost as if some people think good painters didn’t have to learn how to do it. When I painted my first minis nearly 40 years ago, there really weren’t any paints aimed at painting minis easily available. I ended up using an eclectic mix of artists oils, Airfix enamels and even poster paint. Eleven year old me would have loved to have had Contrast paint back then.

Do we have to put a layer of varnish onto Contrasted models before applying layers or dry brushing?

No, the finish isn't as fragile as some would have us believe. I carried my test pieces home loose in my pocket with no rubs or scratches. They won't stand up to long term handling but they are fine for painting over.

Presumably you can use the pots of contrast base paint (Grey Seer etc.) as the undercoat then a contrast paint on top, you do not need a spray?

 The Forgemaster wrote:
Presumably you can use the pots of contrast base paint (Grey Seer etc.) as the undercoat then a contrast paint on top, you do not need a spray?

You don’t actually ‘need’ the special undercoat/base paint at all, just a light tone and a smooth (but not glossy) surface finish. For example you can apply Contrast directly over Retributor Armour spray or over brushed on light base like Averland Sunset, or even over the top of a really bright layer like Flash Gitz Yellow.
But yes you can use the potted Wraithbone and Grey Seer in place of the sparays if you want.

 Mr_Rose wrote:

 The Forgemaster wrote:
Presumably you can use the pots of contrast base paint (Grey Seer etc.) as the undercoat then a contrast paint on top, you do not need a spray?

You don’t actually ‘need’ the special undercoat/base paint at all, just a light tone and a smooth (but not glossy) surface finish. For example you can apply Contrast directly over Retributor Armour spray or over brushed on light base like Averland Sunset, or even over the top of a really bright layer like Flash Gitz Yellow.
But yes you can use the potted Wraithbone and Grey Seer in place of the sparays if you want.

Many thanks

The Contrast bases still aren’t a primer though, right?

I think the point with the two new sprays is that they're light.

From what we've seen, contrast won't work over a Chaos Black spray because it's too translucent, but lighter base coats/sprays and some metallics would be fine.

 AduroT wrote:
The Contrast bases still aren’t a primer though, right?

The two new contrast based sprays are primers and are designed to be used instead of the regular white or black primers. Their main property is that they go on with a much smoother finish whilst the traditional white is a much more coarse finish on the model. The contrast paint basically wants to flow over the surface, letting it stretch out on the raised areas and pool in the recesses; so a coarse undercoat wouldn't let it flow as well to achieve its best appearance. Though I'd wager you could get a similar effect, you just might have to mess with it a lot more on the model with the brush. Even with a smooth undercoat you appear to still need some brush control and to move it around a bit to get a good result - more so on open areas.

Very light undercoats have the advantages of best showing off the Contrast effect, and being usable with any colour. But it gives this pastel look to the highlights that I'm not digging at all.

I'm hoping that different undercoat colours can get richer and more dynamic results. It'll take more thought and effort, especially if you want to use more than one Contrast colour on the mini. But if I can just get the base and shade done in one coat that's still good news for army painting.

 Fabio Bile wrote:
Very light undercoats have the advantages of best showing off the Contrast effect, and being usable with any colour. But it gives this pastel look to the highlights that I'm not digging at all.

I'm hoping that different undercoat colours can get richer and more dynamic results. It'll take more thought and effort, especially if you want to use more than one Contrast colour on the mini. But if I can just get the base and shade done in one coat that's still good news for army painting.

I think the pastel look is going to be something you get with contrast paints to some extent because you've got pigment in the highlights every time; so a softer more pastel transition is kind of going to be more normal. More coats might have boost the contrast of the base areas though and reduce the effect, but I think if you want sharper highlights then the contrast paint would give you your "base" coat and then adding more highlights using regular highlighting methods on top would be the approach. Though it might be that using the contrast paint in a mix might also let you use it as a highlighting paint to get a sharper contrast, but with smoother graduation

 Overread wrote:

 AduroT wrote:
The Contrast bases still aren’t a primer though, right?

The two new contrast based sprays are primers and are designed to be used instead of the regular white or black primers. Their main property is that they go on with a much smoother finish whilst the traditional white is a much more coarse finish on the model. The contrast paint basically wants to flow over the surface, letting it stretch out on the raised areas and pool in the recesses; so a coarse undercoat wouldn't let it flow as well to achieve its best appearance. Though I'd wager you could get a similar effect, you just might have to mess with it a lot more on the model with the brush. Even with a smooth undercoat you appear to still need some brush control and to move it around a bit to get a good result - more so on open areas.

Last I knew the black and the white weren’t primers, just paint. Are they, and the wraithbone and grey seer, actual primer or just basecoats?