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No I am not intersted in learning Pole Dancing...

I am wanting to know what you guys use for stripping your figures

I have used Thinner.. worked ok..
Pine Sol ... Meh...
Now I am using Simple Green and the vertict is still out on it..

I tried a old Tooth brush to remove the paint after a overnight soke
but it leaves alot of paint in high detail locations
I also tried using a Thin exacto blade to pick at the paint seems better..
but this is very very slow..

I've only tried one thing so far but that worked rather well.

I used a small amount of my dads varnish remover (which was like a thick glue almost). I put the model in a metal tin, poured some of the varnish remover over it them poured some almost boiling water in (to thin the solvent and increase any chemical reaction). I left that for a while then with gloves removed the model and scrubbed the paint off it.

Be careful tho, that stuff is leathal.

Craig

I use Simple green, though for plastics it can be a little less than exciting on the first go. Generally with enough scrubbing, soaking, scrubbing and more soaking I can get everything off.

Except for some marines I have with green, bumpy primer that apparently uses soviergn glue as a base... I just gave up and primed over it.

I recently used Simplie Green to strip my entire space marine army and was generally happy with its performance. After I let it soak i scrubbed the models with a toothbrush in some water and most of the paint came off. It completely stripped the paint off my metal models. It got off about 90 percent of the paint off my plastic models.

My biggest beef with simple green was that it didn't strip the primer off my plastic models very well. It also left some paint in the recesses, but I didn't really care.

I found that having a little paint left over didn't really matter too much, because after priming I used a GW foundation paint. This completely eliminated any blotches caused by uneven color showing through my priming...I'm priming white though.

Brush Restorer works well on metal but will dissolve plastic completely.

It is also a devil to get rid of as you need to recycle it not just chuck it down the drain.

There are several old threads about stripping metal, plastic and glue, so do a bit of a search for more info.

I use simple green stripping process.

Step one: Overnight in simple green
Step two: Run water over models and let dry while I'm at work, this helps the paint crack and flake a bit.
Step three: Another overnight bath. Some superglue will probably fail during the second bath but redoing it is easy enough.
Step four: The worn out tooth brush scrub. Get an old toothbrush or buy a good "nail scrubbing" brush at the store.

This works for most models, but I did run into a recent ebay purchase I tried to strip that musta been clear coated 90 times, cause days of simple green couldn't even dent the original paint job.

well for metal models i use brake fluild let sit over night and the paint starts to peals off use a toothbrush to get the paint off NOTE use saftey glasses out side

I've used Castrol Superclean before, but plastics always left
stuff in the crevices.

i use nitromorse which is quite nasty stuff but works on anything metal but melts plastics. i've also got some Phoenix Precision PS18 SuperStrip (www.phoenix-paints.co.uk) which i've yet to try but states it can be used on plastic.

I tend to use either DOT3 brake fluid, or Simple Green. I used to use Castrol Superclean, but the last batch I tried sucked.

Yeah, brake fluid works wonders- I far prefer it to Simple Green. It's highly carcinogenic, though. Guess that matters less for those of us that grew up next to a nuke plant. Either way, I'd recommend long gloves and washing your clothes afterwards, too.

Just remember to wash your minis thoroughly after removing the paint.

Savnock wrote:Yeah, brake fluid works wonders- I far prefer it to Simple Green. It's highly carcinogenic, though. Guess that matters less for those of us that grew up next to a nuke plant. Either way, I'd recommend long gloves and washing your clothes afterwards, too.

Just remember to wash your minis thoroughly after removing the paint.

Er, yes. This is true. Brake Fluid + bare skin =/= a good idea.

I use Simple Green for all my Acrylics in need of stripping.

The trick is to not use a soft bristled brush. Even "hard" toothbrushes don't do the trick .

You can go to Lowes or Home Depot and get, in the painting section, a hard nylon bristled brush for about 2 bucks. It made all the different in the world. It eats the lose paint, and by the nature of its stiff bristles it can clean cracks and smaller places. You might still have to dig in there with an Xacto knife to get the super fine detail, but not everything is perfect

Genoside07 wrote:No I am not intersted in learning Pole Dancing...

why, why arent you interested in pole dancing

yeah my friend stripped a large amount of models wih the old brush restorer left em over night...when he came back the next morning all the detal had been removed too, so be carfull