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A note, I did some conversion work with green stuff on a carnifex and then later decided I wanted a different pose. As such, I immersed it in Super Clean for a week. Unfortunately, the Super Clean ended up removing the green stuff from the model.

Yes, I love the Super Clean but it DOES eat Green Stuff. This is by far the best stripping method for use on plastic and pewter models.

For stripping both plastic and metal minis I have used a paint remover called "Oops!" that you can find for sale at WalMart and most Hardware Stores: http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/50-278-latex-paint-removers/oops!-all-purpose-remover-661174.aspx

It's an all purpose cleaner that works on most mediums, and cleans plastic minis without warping the plastic (though it can eat through super glue).

Like the rest of these the fumes from this stripper are really strong, and should be used with abundant ventilation. However, it has a much shorter time frame for use - plastics usually strip by brushing it over the paint with a brush. Even hard to remove paint can be worked out of crevices within 5 minutes. Metal minis take longer but they can easily be cleaned inside of an hour. Not sure how it works on Green Stuff though.

Nice find drflynne, I might have to try that one out.

Cheers for the dettol hint it works well thanks a lot!

Updated it with a step-by-step account of using acetone. I think it would be cool if the Stripping FAQ had guides for each of the different kinds of stripping mediums. Anyone else hear the call?

Stripped my first metal models over the last week, and here are some observation about the CSC (now renamed "Super Clean) stripping method.

First I stripped a 1996 all metal land speeder. There were 3 layers of paint. It had fallen apart into three pieces. So in it went!

I put it in one of those plastic disposable lunch meat containers, the kind that the Hillshire Farms comes in. Go Meat!

(And the wife gave me permission....)

I soaked it overnight with negligible results, only about half of it came off. But that WAS when I discovered the three layers!

So I changed out the CSC. I let is soak for another day, scrubbed it to not satisfactory yet much better results. This time I didn't change it, but left it soak for 3 more days and then success!

99% of the paint came off. So be patient.

Now let me summarize the observations:

1) Castrol Super clean (CSC) is now just called "Super Clean" and can be found in the automotive section at Wal-Mart. It is in the one gallon purple container.

2) A stiff bristle toothbrush is nearly impossible to find. My wife bought me a denture brush. It came with the advantage of having some long thin bristle on the other side that was handy for getting into crevices as well as a plastic pick on the end.

3) Careful using the Xacto knife. I did open up some bare metal.

4) I found much of the paint I could not scrub off was due to the fact it was under a glob of super glue. Wait for your bits to dry and cool. For some reason (maybe the metal expanding and contracting?) the super glue becomes much easier to spot as it seems to being to peel off the bit- it goes from clear to semi opaque. I had one part that did not come off even after that, but for a metal model a dip in finger nail polish remover does the trick.

A note on oven cleaner:

I HAVE used it. It's totally safe on plastic. Does a job on protein though - e.g. those bits of turkey stuck to the inside of your oven, or those bits of flesh you like to call your Fingers.

The sensation of watching your fingertips slowly turn into slime (that won't wash off) is fascinating at first, but ultimately painful. Gloves are highly recommended.

Anacrucis wrote:A note on oven cleaner:

I HAVE used it. It's totally safe on plastic. Does a job on protein though - e.g. those bits of turkey stuck to the inside of your oven, or those bits of flesh you like to call your Fingers.

The sensation of watching your fingertips slowly turn into slime (that won't wash off) is fascinating at first, but ultimately painful. Gloves are highly recommended.

If this does happen to you apply vinegar quickly and in copious amounts. If your skin gets thin/starts to bleed seek medical attention immediately.

@Sonophos - Vinegar?? Really?? I don't think I'd recommend that, That would just sting and add to the wound. Follow the instructions for oven cleaner (ie use it for cleaning ovens) and follow the first aid advice your product gives you. It probably says rinse the skin under running water and immediately seek medical advice. Not vinegar.

I have come across references to ultrasonic jewelry cleaners. I am going to purchase one and see how it goes.
I have two toddlers and I REALLY don't want chemicals hanging around the house.

will be grabbing some super clean for a try out!

especially@ my old bt there rather..... well i learned a lot looking back

Really good article! I'm currently strippn' metals with acsatone and have been using gloves and a tooth brush and has worked fine... Just have to scrub, put it back in wait till next weeken when i have a chance the scrubb...Or if I'm modling I'll do it every few hours...

The biggest concern that I see with this article and others recently posted on this topic is the fact of the safety issues that are needed when stripping any sort of models.

People do get hurt... badly.

I can not stress how important this is when you use any sort of cleaning agent. Protect yourself at all times when stripping models.

I have come across references to ultrasonic jewelry cleaners. I am going to purchase one and see how it goes.
I have two toddlers and I REALLY don't want chemicals hanging around the house.

I have an L&R Ultrasonic Cleaner that I use exclusively when I strip models. I stopped using any of the cleaning agents posted on this topic as well.
Do not use the really really cheap ultrasonic cleaners because you are throwing your money away.

Works great on metal models but it took work to get the paint removed from plastic. Oddly enough it didn't eat my glue, but don't quote me on that please. After immersing my steel legionaries in the purple super clean liquid over night I ran them under the hot faucet and the paint slipped right off. I didn't need to brush it because there were hardly any small cracks and crevices. I would recommend super clean for metal miniatures anyday, and in my experience glue was fine. I'll be using this some more, thanks for the tutorial!

It takes several days for cleaning agents like Super Clean to eat away at the superglue bond

I tried the Dettol to no avail, left them soaking for two days. :( it was the kind of dettol i was using as i've now tried a thicker type that was fantastic! beat the results from acetone hand down will reedit the post with the type of dettol i used laters

will be trying the acetone next :s hope i get some better results.

UPDATE: acetone works alot better

HAY guys you should check out RAVEN MINIATURE PAINT STRIPPER. I think its pretty new and pretty amazing.

It strips all paints from all miniature types.

I did a video review for it
Check it out::

Just did this process yesterday. Left this guy in a Tupperware with Super Clean for about 30 hours and then all the paint scrubbed right off within minutes. Absolutely zero damage to plastic!! He had about 3-4 coats of paint on him, black primer, painted coats, and blue primer. The superglue used to attach him to his base also just turned to an easily removed brittle consistency. 10/10 will do again!

I've used dawn power dissolver frequently with good results on metal and plastic models. Unlike supper clean the paint doesn't become brittle per se but more rubbery, it still removes the bond from the paint and plastic so the paint peels off. Like other strippers, it weakens super glue bonds if left in for several days. It also reacts with green stuff and causes it to fall apart. Just recently I put a resin model into removes the bond from the paint and plastic so the paint peels off. Like other strippers, it weakens super glue bonds if left in for several days. It also reacts with green stuff and causes it to fall apart. Just recently I put a resin model into tub of power dissolver and after a couple weeks, when I got around to taking the model out, I noticed that the resin had become rubbery. I'm not sure if this was a forge world model or a recast, but it is something to be aware of.