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Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator

Omnis Arcanum

Hello fellow dakka dakka members!

Im 13 years old and this is my first time posting up my own pics so be nice and pull your punches.
I do take constructive criticism but not stuff like "Nice paintjob, for a clown."

One more thing I play SMs,Orks,Tau,Nids and have a imp guard valk, leman russ and a stormsword.

Well on with the pics!
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First up stormsword!

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2009/08/13 00:17:25

Flashman wrote:Think Wahammer Tabletop won the thread.

Made in ca
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God


Very nice looking , better looking then mine !

           ◂◂  ►  ▐ ▌  ◼  ▸▸
          ʳʷ   ᵖˡᵃʸ  ᵖᵃᵘˢᵉ  ˢᵗᵒᵖ   ᶠᶠ 
Made in cn
Blackclad Wayfarer

From England. Living in Shanghai

I really like the weathered look on the tracks.

I have to ask though, what are the blue stains on the right hand side?

Looking for games in Shanghai? Send a PM 
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator

Omnis Arcanum

Tried to make a "glow" effect didn't turn out so great XD the head lights glow effect looks good but you can't really see.

Flashman wrote:Think Wahammer Tabletop won the thread.

Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator

Omnis Arcanum

Well took more pics of the stormsword, stompa, and Calgar's personal land raider. and the storm boyz im painting up.

On with the pics!
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Land raider

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detail on LR

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Flashman wrote:Think Wahammer Tabletop won the thread.

Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator

Omnis Arcanum

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Flashman wrote:Think Wahammer Tabletop won the thread.

Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator

Omnis Arcanum

Stompa time!
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Flashman wrote:Think Wahammer Tabletop won the thread.

Made in us
Wolf Guard Bodyguard in Terminator Armor


work on your painting IMHO

If you just put more work in and be more patient don't be in a hurry it will help alot.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/08/12 18:55:32

Deff Gearz 2,000+pts. (50% painted), Retribution 57pt.(70% painted), FOW British Armoured Squadron 1660pts. (15% painted)

Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut

Omadon's Realm

Death Gear wrote:work on your painting IMHO

If you just put more work in and be more patient don't be in a hurry it will help alot.

Thanks for the edit, I was just about to flame yer merry arse for useless criticism, glad I didn't have to. As the OP states, he's 13 and learning his craft, I certainly didn't paint that well at 13 and since I haven't painted anything in years, couldn't comment that I could do any better now.

To the OP, some of my thoughts.
Stompa is looking very good indeed, Bad moons colours and plenty of freehand. Only thing I'd suggest is looking for a way to make the yellow look alittle more solid, if you used a darker colour for undercoat (like black spray) then yellow and white will be bitches to get looking solid without the darker colour showing through in patches.

I really like the grim and weathered look of the tank and am REALLY impressed that you are already looking to take on painting light effects, this is again, complicated stuff and you should be prudent about running before you can walk with fancy extras like that.

Same goes for the freehand on the Ultramarines tank, I certainly see where you were going and love the ideas behind it but here's something to be considered, if you are going for something as advanced as freehand wording scrawls on tank armour or pictures of angels (check out LittleBoyBlues on this site for some nice freehand btw) then remember this, the writing should look like it's been done by someone about 28mms high. Basically the criticism I would level at your freehand detailing is this:
It's gone onto the model at the expense of actual definition like shading and highlighting.
It should be more uniform and like someone the size of one of your figures sat down and wrote it on the tank.

You have very good ideas and you are experimenting with some of the most advanced painting styles and tricks in the book, my summary is master the more standard painting necessities first, the shading, highlighting, weathering and colour complimenting. Your eye for freehand and lighting effects will come as your other skills advance.

But I applaud your start here and look forward to watching you hone those skills.

Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator

Omnis Arcanum


Yeah I think ive my freehand isn't the best at the moment, ive been working with highlighting on the land raider you might not see it because I used enchanted blue as the base coat and space wolves grey as the highlight.

Im also trying to work with the washes and such.

Thanks for the help.

Flashman wrote:Think Wahammer Tabletop won the thread.

Made in ca
Calculating Commissar

Kamloops, B.C.

Your base-colors are strong and clear - that's good. I think the stompa looks better without a solid yellow base on it - Makes it look more worn. Makes it look Orkier. But your advanced techniques can use some polishing. I'll follow off MeanGreen.

For lighting effects, get a pen light, a ruler, and a pencil. Find the lamp you want to test effects on and turn out the lights. Shine the pen light from the same facing as the lamp in question. Pressing lightly, use the ruler and pencil to outline the edges of the light cone on the surface of the LR. Outline any shadows that appear on the model from the angle of the light. This will help get a better sense of the way a lightsource would look in the dark. Of course, if you feel both ambitious and technically inclined, you could try fitting in LEDs, though there's not much I can do for help there

For your writing, two suggestions: 1 - A high-end fine detail paint pen. These can be found in most craft stores. They aren't cheap, and they're still a bit of a challenge, but they'll give you the best looking results. When writing anything on your tanks, use a ruler and lightly draw some straight edges to scale your text and align it. That way it won't go lopsided while you're writing or jump up and down in scale - two common problems with freehand lettering. And again, try to secure some fine detail acrylic paint pens for doing lettering - it's easier than a brush.

Your other option for lettering is to make your own transfers and print them off onto blank transfer sheets. You can find these at print shops and, quite likely, office supply stores. You can then just apply them as you would normal transfers, though this obviously won't look as visually appealing and you'll end up with that glossy plastic sheen over the transfer.

Good idea throwing some putty on the treads to keep them from getting paint on them - Touching up metallic drybrushing can be a pain in the arse. Though the putty does make the treads look like IT'S A SUPER FAST LAND RAIDER WITH FLAMING TREADS OF DEATH!

EDIT: And yes, for freehand artwork tips, check out littleboyblues' thread, located here: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/240985.page

Hint: Anything freehand should always be drawn out lightly in pencil first

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/08/12 19:54:49

Dakka Code:

Made in gb
Yellin' Yoof

Well said MeanGreenStompa. Also, I would add that it would probably be best to practice on cheaper, less complex models. I'm sure that the washes will help, good luck!
Made in us
Werewolf of Angmar


Quality work overall. Not much to say that hasn't already been said, but I do have a couple things.

Have you considered trying a thin-tip pen for your writing? You can use it for squiggles, but its best application I'd imagine is redoing the "Faith is Eternal" on the landraider in a gothic-script-design, perhaps from the BGB or somesuch. That is, if your handwriting is neater than your painting (me, not by much ). I personally haven't tried writing anything in pen on models before (vehicles in the mail...) but some people use a pen to make the pupils in eyes so I figured it'd be a viable option.

Not sure if this is in LBB's guide, but you could also pencil out what you're going to try and freehand and then paint it. Following a pre-made design is far easier than creating it as you go.

I love the Omega sign on the doors of the LandRaider, I didn't see it at first! I love the fire outlining it, too.

Keep up the good work and the good ideas!

OT: Good to see a 13 year old not typing in 1337 speak for a change. I congratulate you, sir.


This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/08/12 20:39:23

"Well, looks can be deceiving."
"Not as deceiving as a low down, dirty... Deceiver." 
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