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I've got a GW glue pot, but I left it alone for a good year or so. It wasn't exposed to heat, kept in the bottom drawer of my dresser. However now the glue has thickened to the point where I need to leave it upside down for half an hour for it to flow to the tip. I ended up sticking a paper clip in and smearing it around that way.

Any way to fix my glue?

Which glue?
You can fix PVA by adding water.
You can throw the other glues away as you won't be able to fix them and buy from another company.

Ah, right.

GW plastic glue.

Good alternative please? This is the third pot.

Revell do good plastic glue/polystyrene cement that has a screw on lid with a brush attached to it. I've spilled it a couple of times but never had it dry out.

Yeah, I like Revell too but I prefer the needle type applicator.

Alex Kolodotschko wrote:Yeah, I like Revell too but I prefer the needle type applicator.

best. plastic. glue. ever!

I love the Testor's plastic glue. Cheap, needle applicator and available everywhere.

Buy new glue.

Seriously, all superglue is the same, with a few tiny tweaks. The superglue that you buy 6/$3 at Walgreens is the same as the 1/$9 GW glue. Just use regular superglue.

Oh, don't get me wrong, I do use cheap superglue. But the problem is plastic.

So Revell's and Testor's plastic glue is worth a look at?

Oh yeah.

Both the jar type and the bottle (with needle applicator) have their own uses (with some overlap).

Both have a tendency to clog up the nozzle but a small length of thin wire will clear it (those paper/plastic coated twist ties are thin enough. Strip the coating and they are great).

I've had bottles of the Revell Contacta Pro stuff (blue bottle shown) for several years and they haven't thickened up yet.

Yeah, the Revell Blue Bottle shown above is really good. My dad's had a bottle for more than ten years (I think) and it hasn't thickened up.

I can attest that the Revell Contacta Proffesional shown above is indeed awesome. And if you ever manage to clog up the needle, just use a lighter, it'll clear it in no time.

Beware that if there's a lot of glue in the needle, it can give a small flare, and of course the metal gets hot, so take precautions; don't point it towards anything flameable.

Easiest way to clean a blocked nozzle is to push a length of brass rod down it, not too keen on putting flames near it myself.

The lighter is only for blocked metal needles, obviously it won't work on a plastic nozzle; it would just melt it.

And most people probably have easier access to a lighter than a piece of rod thin enough to fit through the needle.

Wouldn't a paperclip fit?

Revell or Humbrol poly cement is what I use, But the needle applicator gets blocked too much.

I use the testor's posted a bit above - never had a block, amazing stuff, I wouldn't touch anything else for plastic glue on minis.

Howard A Treesong wrote:Easiest way to clean a blocked nozzle is to push a length of brass rod down it, not too keen on putting flames near it myself.

You CAN remove the needle for cleaning. 'S what I do.

Burn the crud out and let it cool, then push it back in. Go from there.

The fine wire (lighting grade fuse wire also works) will keep it clear for the most part. Capping it after use and ensuring little glue is in the nozzle will limit the need to declog it.