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For an AR being used for target shooting and home defense is there any practical difference between a 1/9 and a 1/8 barrel?
d-usa wrote: One of the girls in my class was scared of the Glock 17 because "it's so heavy" and kept on complaining that they should have a lighter gun for people like her because the recoil on the big gun is going to be painful.
Quite a few of us tried explaining to her that small guns usually have worse recoil, but we didn't get anywhere. I like my LCP, but the tiny gun with the tiny .380 ammo gives me a beat up wrist after a day on the range.
I tried shooting an XDS in .45, and between the caliber, small barrel, and aggressive grip texture it was not a pleasant experience for the second handgun I ever fired.
Dreadclaw69 wrote: For an AR being used for target shooting and home defense is there any practical difference between a 1/9 and a 1/8 barrel?
d-usa wrote: One of the girls in my class was scared of the Glock 17 because "it's so heavy" and kept on complaining that they should have a lighter gun for people like her because the recoil on the big gun is going to be painful.
Quite a few of us tried explaining to her that small guns usually have worse recoil, but we didn't get anywhere. I like my LCP, but the tiny gun with the tiny .380 ammo gives me a beat up wrist after a day on the range.
I tried shooting an XDS in .45, and between the caliber, small barrel, and aggressive grip texture it was not a pleasant experience for the second handgun I ever fired.
For your intended purposes, there is no real difference between a 1/8 and a 1/9 barrel. For the most part, people shoot 55gr bullets for practice, with the occasional 62gr thrown in. The 1/9 can handle each readily. For my uses, I shoot 55/62gr and go up to 75gr for my pistols as a defensive round, so for me a 1/8 twist rate is what I aim for. As it stands, most AR manufacturers are settling on the 1/8 as the standard twist rate. The 1/8 is a good compromise as it allows you to shoot the lighter, cheaper rounds (55gr and 62gr) as well as the heavier rounds (75-80gr).
Now not all barrels and rifles are the same. Shoot a few different loads and see which YOUR rifle likes.
Thank you both. I've been looking at an M&P Sport II and while it is ticking a lot of the boxes it is a 1/9 barrel. Realistically thought it'll be used for target shooting and home defense so it is more than capable of handling the 55gr ammo for those purposes.
I haven't owned a rifle before and I'm trying to do my homework ahead of a potential purchase.
Carry, if it was purely range, I would probably go with the 17. I think that I could carry the 19 fairly comfortably. I'll probably play around with the subcompact as well when I go to the store, but I'll probably stick with the 19.
The 43 is pretty neat, but it is snappier than the larger sized ones, I also liked the 42 in .380 a lot.
IRON WITHIN, IRON WITHOUT.
New Heavy Gear Log! Also...Grey Knights! The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.
d-usa wrote: Carry, if it was purely range, I would probably go with the 17. I think that I could carry the 19 fairly comfortably. I'll probably play around with the subcompact as well when I go to the store, but I'll probably stick with the 19.
If printing is your concern:
I carry a Glock 19 or 26 daily. I'm only 5'6'' tall and weight @ 200lbs (working on getting it back down). I find that in the fall/winter it is easy to conceal the 19 without issue. In the spring and summer I think the 26 prints less, however I find that even then the 19 does not print all that much.
A good belt (I like rigger belts) and a decent holster will do wonders for concealment.
If weight is your concern:
A good belt will make it so that you don't really notice the weight of a compact/subcompact handgun.
I usually pocket carry a LCP if I'm not wearing anything that would help with concealment, so I would only wear the 19 if I got the clothes to hide it or when I'm carrying openly.
Maybe this is a dumb question, but is degreasing surplus rifles always necessary? I've got a M39 (Finnish Mosin variant). It's not like some of the surplus Russian Mosin-Nagants I've fondled in that the bore is clean, the action runs smoothly and there's no grease oozing out from the stock. It seems pretty clean overall.
Waiting for my shill money from Spiral Arm Studios
Dakka Flakka Flame wrote: Maybe this is a dumb question, but is degreasing surplus rifles always necessary? I've got a M39 (Finnish Mosin variant). It's not like some of the surplus Russian Mosin-Nagants I've fondled in that the bore is clean, the action runs smoothly and there's no grease oozing out from the stock. It seems pretty clean overall.
I'd clean it anyway just to be sure.
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Cato Sicarius, after force feeding Captain Ventris a copy of the Codex Astartes for having the audacity to play Deathwatch, chokes to death on his own D-baggery after finding Calgar assembling his new Eldar army.
Sometimes that stuff will harden and prevent function or act as a dirt magnet even if it's not immediately obvious, so a thorogh cleaning is probably warranted, but you probably dont need to go full bore like if it were a Chinese or Russian gun that's been drowned in cosmoline for sixty years.
IRON WITHIN, IRON WITHOUT.
New Heavy Gear Log! Also...Grey Knights! The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.
Picked up 5 boxes, found case dents present on at least one round in each box (3 boxes had multiple dented cases), multiple failures to eject, some rounds would eject and rocket off to the moon, others would barely dribble out of the gun.
Avoid that stuff like the plague, it's baaaaaaaad.
IRON WITHIN, IRON WITHOUT.
New Heavy Gear Log! Also...Grey Knights! The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.
Srsly, had 3 malfs in 51 rounds from four different boxes (didn't shoot any from the last box). You will definitely get your practice in.
Switched to Fiocchi and had no issues whatsoever.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/05/29 01:31:56
IRON WITHIN, IRON WITHOUT.
New Heavy Gear Log! Also...Grey Knights! The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.
My ARs have eaten whatever Ive fed them, but I limit myself to Lake City, Federal, PMC, Remington or Wolf Gold for first firings, then I reload. I did shoot Fiocchi and Perfecta when we carried them. Of all of them, Wolf gives me the most issues with primer crimp, followed by LC - Ive crushed my fair share of primers with those two. Remington is the easiest to reload, but the primers seem to seat way to easy in them - they may not last as long for reloading. Ive stayed away from Tula, Wolf steel, and Whitebox because I just dont like shooting junk. To my thinking, Winchester whitebox is similar to Remington Thunderkrap 22LR.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/05/29 02:12:52
In general I've had bad luck with Thunderbolt in 22LR, and I have had very hit and miss experiences with Winchester White Box and UMC. I don't buy them anymore.
I have been very happy with PMC Bronze as a plinking ammo for 308 and 5.56, for 22 mag and LR, I like CCI maxi-mags. I can't remember what brand I'm getting .300BLK in, but it's some subsonic ammo that has done 100% flawless. Not helpful that I can't remember the brand, sorry. It was Sellier & Bellot, but I switched to some Freedom Munitions stuff that was a little less expensive.
I like Tulammo quite a bit in my AK, but it is an AK.
For my self-defense rounds, like like 9mm Speer gold dots +P JHP, or Federal Hydra-shok JHPs in 45acp. I don't carry the 1911 much anymore though, I usually just carry the 9 now.
This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2017/05/29 03:05:53
lord_blackfang wrote: Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.
Flinty wrote: The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
Another reason not to invade the USA: you guys have access to heavy bolters!
"Our crops will wither, our children will die piteous
deaths and the sun will be swept from the sky. But is it true?" - Tom Kirby, CEO, Games Workshop Ltd
New Heavy Gear Log! Also...Grey Knights! The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.
I'm going to post something that some of you, maybe most of you, already know, but maybe a handful might not.
When I first got my AR pistol, I shot cheap, steel cased ammo because my first rifle was an AK and that was my habit. This ammo worked in terms of operation. It wasn't super accurate, but it wasn't terrible. After reading about how hard this ammo was on your AR components, I switched over to brass only. Again I feel like I should reiterate it fed and operated just fine.
Flash forward to about 2 weeks ago, I had a shell get stuck in my chamber, or so I thought. I didn't have the tools on me to pop it out, so I waited to get home and used a cleaning rod. The shell was a little dirty, so I just assumed it was bad cleaning... although I am actually pretty good about cleaning.
I scrubbed the chamber thoroughly.
The other day I went out, and a misfeed immediately. I cleared it, and it misfed on the second round. The third round stuck in the chamber, again.
when I got home, I popped the shell out with a cleaning rod, and it was clean as a whistle. I examined my bolt, and sure enough - the extractor was 100% worn away. There was no hook on it at all anymore. I think I only shot about 800-1000 rounds of steel-cased before switching to brass.
The moral of the story is, you can save some money by shooting steel-cased ammo, but it does have some costs: it is very hard on your extractor, it's very hard on your barrel, and it's not particularly accurate. If it's just a screwing around gun, then you can still save money even with occasional barrel and extractor replacements added in, but I really can't recommend it outside of an emergency with how brass ammo is pretty cheap now, too.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/06/04 02:31:08
lord_blackfang wrote: Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.
Flinty wrote: The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
Ouze wrote: I'm going to post something that some of you, maybe most of you, already know, but maybe a handful might not.
When I first got my AR pistol, I shot cheap, steel cased ammo because my first rifle was an AK and that was my habit. This ammo worked in terms of operation. It wasn't super accurate, but it wasn't terrible. After reading about how hard this ammo was on your AR components, I switched over to brass only. Again I feel like I should reiterate it fed and operated just fine.
Flash forward to about 2 weeks ago, I had a shell get stuck in my chamber, or so I thought. I didn't have the tools on me to pop it out, so I waited to get home and used a cleaning rod. The shell was a little dirty, so I just assumed it was bad cleaning... although I am actually pretty good about cleaning.
I scrubbed the chamber thoroughly.
The other day I went out, and a misfeed immediately. I cleared it, and it misfed on the second round. The third round stuck in the chamber, again.
when I got home, I popped the shell out with a cleaning rod, and it was clean as a whistle. I examined my bolt, and sure enough - the extractor was 100% worn away. There was no hook on it at all anymore. I think I only shot about 800-1000 rounds of steel-cased before switching to brass.
The moral of the story is, you can save some money by shooting steel-cased ammo, but it does have some costs: it is very hard on your extractor, it's very hard on your barrel, and it's not particularly accurate. If it's just a screwing around gun, then you can still save money even with occasional barrel and extractor replacements added in, but I really can't recommend it outside of an emergency with how brass ammo is pretty cheap now, too.
I dont touch the lacquered steel cased crap. The combloc brass ammo though is good to go, so is the Slovakian/Croatian ammo.
Ouze wrote: I'm going to post something that some of you, maybe most of you, already know, but maybe a handful might not.
When I first got my AR pistol, I shot cheap, steel cased ammo because my first rifle was an AK and that was my habit. This ammo worked in terms of operation. It wasn't super accurate, but it wasn't terrible. After reading about how hard this ammo was on your AR components, I switched over to brass only. Again I feel like I should reiterate it fed and operated just fine.
Flash forward to about 2 weeks ago, I had a shell get stuck in my chamber, or so I thought. I didn't have the tools on me to pop it out, so I waited to get home and used a cleaning rod. The shell was a little dirty, so I just assumed it was bad cleaning... although I am actually pretty good about cleaning.
I scrubbed the chamber thoroughly.
The other day I went out, and a misfeed immediately. I cleared it, and it misfed on the second round. The third round stuck in the chamber, again.
when I got home, I popped the shell out with a cleaning rod, and it was clean as a whistle. I examined my bolt, and sure enough - the extractor was 100% worn away. There was no hook on it at all anymore. I think I only shot about 800-1000 rounds of steel-cased before switching to brass.
The moral of the story is, you can save some money by shooting steel-cased ammo, but it does have some costs: it is very hard on your extractor, it's very hard on your barrel, and it's not particularly accurate. If it's just a screwing around gun, then you can still save money even with occasional barrel and extractor replacements added in, but I really can't recommend it outside of an emergency with how brass ammo is pretty cheap now, too.
Interesting. As far as I was aware, steel cases would cause increased wear, but shouldn't result in an extractor wearing *that* fast, that's insane. was it all the same type of steel cased or was it some Tula, some Wolf, some Brown Bear, etc?
IRON WITHIN, IRON WITHOUT.
New Heavy Gear Log! Also...Grey Knights! The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.
Ouze wrote: I'm going to post something that some of you, maybe most of you, already know, but maybe a handful might not.
When I first got my AR pistol, I shot cheap, steel cased ammo because my first rifle was an AK and that was my habit. This ammo worked in terms of operation. It wasn't super accurate, but it wasn't terrible. After reading about how hard this ammo was on your AR components, I switched over to brass only. Again I feel like I should reiterate it fed and operated just fine.
Flash forward to about 2 weeks ago, I had a shell get stuck in my chamber, or so I thought. I didn't have the tools on me to pop it out, so I waited to get home and used a cleaning rod. The shell was a little dirty, so I just assumed it was bad cleaning... although I am actually pretty good about cleaning.
I scrubbed the chamber thoroughly.
The other day I went out, and a misfeed immediately. I cleared it, and it misfed on the second round. The third round stuck in the chamber, again.
when I got home, I popped the shell out with a cleaning rod, and it was clean as a whistle. I examined my bolt, and sure enough - the extractor was 100% worn away. There was no hook on it at all anymore. I think I only shot about 800-1000 rounds of steel-cased before switching to brass.
The moral of the story is, you can save some money by shooting steel-cased ammo, but it does have some costs: it is very hard on your extractor, it's very hard on your barrel, and it's not particularly accurate. If it's just a screwing around gun, then you can still save money even with occasional barrel and extractor replacements added in, but I really can't recommend it outside of an emergency with how brass ammo is pretty cheap now, too.
That seems like an incredible amount of wear for that many rounds. I wonder if maybe there was a defect in your extractor?
