Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I just bought a Phirana.. love the vehicle, although it's not in my army list I wanted it in my collection... Never built one before, just watched BoW's video the other day to see what it'd be like to assemble (And even John had a few problems with it!)

The problem I had mainly was putting a controll pannel into the front seat, because in the manual it didn't show at what point it was to be put in. I had already put the main hull onto the belly and thought that since the second pannel goes in after that, the front one should too. It didn't, and the hull was sitting pretty darn tight. So I had to cut the pannel in two, and carefully shove the pieces in one at a time with the edge of my hobby knife (at which point I managed to cut my thumb.. Good thing one has super glue around when modelling!).

So this thread is not just about whining at GW's poor manuals, but for generally warning people about pieces that has to go in first!

So: Tau Phirana; The front pannel is to be glued into place into the top hull part before it's put on. Also, since this mistake was made in the BoW vid I suppose I could write it here as well, the piece that's located at the very back (the one that has the.. lenses or lights on it) is to be put on after the hull is glued in place. A third thing which I noticed is that the two seats looks the same at first glance, but the front seat has no 'back' on it, the back seat does, and that is going to make the rear hull part, so make sure you pick the right one! (I didn't, it looked wierd).

Riffzor wrote:(at which point I managed to cut my thumb.. Good thing one has super glue around when modelling!).

I want to stop you there. You shouldn't use cyanoacrylate to seal any wounds - unless you like the idea of infections. Give it a wash and a bandage, most nicks like that heal up pretty fast. I had a buddy of mine get a very wicked scar from trying to quickly close up a cut with just superglue. Not saying it won't do in a real tight situation, but its not the best option.

Anyway, I agree about Phiranas, the damn panel isn't even in one of my models, glad you got it sorted out and managed to set it in there.

I don't have any examples but if I think of any I'll post my own warning about model construction.

Bavius wrote:

Riffzor wrote:(at which point I managed to cut my thumb.. Good thing one has super glue around when modelling!).

I want to stop you there. You shouldn't use cyanoacrylate to seal any wounds - unless you like the idea of infections. Give it a wash and a bandage, most nicks like that heal up pretty fast. I had a buddy of mine get a very wicked scar from trying to quickly close up a cut with just superglue. Not saying it won't do in a real tight situation, but its not the best option.

Anyway, I agree about Phiranas, the damn panel isn't even in one of my models, glad you got it sorted out and managed to set it in there.

I don't have any examples but if I think of any I'll post my own warning about model construction.

Just out of curiosity.. Have you tried it yourself?

Bavius wrote:

Riffzor wrote:(at which point I managed to cut my thumb.. Good thing one has super glue around when modelling!).

I want to stop you there. You shouldn't use cyanoacrylate to seal any wounds - unless you like the idea of infections. Give it a wash and a bandage, most nicks like that heal up pretty fast. I had a buddy of mine get a very wicked scar from trying to quickly close up a cut with just superglue. Not saying it won't do in a real tight situation, but its not the best option.

Sorry to tell you hospitals and EMS use presure and superglue to close up small wounds.

Pipboy101 wrote:

Bavius wrote:

Riffzor wrote:(at which point I managed to cut my thumb.. Good thing one has super glue around when modelling!).

I want to stop you there. You shouldn't use cyanoacrylate to seal any wounds - unless you like the idea of infections. Give it a wash and a bandage, most nicks like that heal up pretty fast. I had a buddy of mine get a very wicked scar from trying to quickly close up a cut with just superglue. Not saying it won't do in a real tight situation, but its not the best option.

Sorry to tell you hospitals and EMS use presure and superglue to close up small wounds.

thats not superglue, that is a special medical glue, BIG difference

FM Ninja 048 wrote:

Pipboy101 wrote:

Bavius wrote:

Riffzor wrote:(at which point I managed to cut my thumb.. Good thing one has super glue around when modeling!).

I want to stop you there. You shouldn't use cyanoacrylate to seal any wounds - unless you like the idea of infections. Give it a wash and a bandage, most nicks like that heal up pretty fast. I had a buddy of mine get a very wicked scar from trying to quickly close up a cut with just superglue. Not saying it won't do in a real tight situation, but its not the best option.

Sorry to tell you hospitals and EMS use pressure and superglue to close up small wounds.

That's not superglue, that is a special medical glue, BIG difference

Actually, it's not. It's a cyanoacrylate with a few additives in some various glues used that make it degrade over time.

As a rule of thumb, however, don't attempt medical procedures yourself. If you've got a wound bad enough to require you to superglue it shut...go to the ER.

No it was just a small cut on the side of my thumb, which only hurt when I was holding something with it whilst turning it.

I've had my toes superglued together at the hospital though, but then they were cut down to the bone by a glass shard. =P I just put a small dot of superglue on my cut to make a 'shell' to keep it together whilst working, as I didn't want blood on my model.

Kanluwen wrote:

FM Ninja 048 wrote:

Pipboy101 wrote:

Bavius wrote:

Riffzor wrote:(at which point I managed to cut my thumb.. Good thing one has super glue around when modeling!).

I want to stop you there. You shouldn't use cyanoacrylate to seal any wounds - unless you like the idea of infections. Give it a wash and a bandage, most nicks like that heal up pretty fast. I had a buddy of mine get a very wicked scar from trying to quickly close up a cut with just superglue. Not saying it won't do in a real tight situation, but its not the best option.

Sorry to tell you hospitals and EMS use pressure and superglue to close up small wounds.

That's not superglue, that is a special medical glue, BIG difference

Actually, it's not. It's a cyanoacrylate with a few additives in some various glues used that make it degrade over time.

As a rule of thumb, however, don't attempt medical procedures yourself. If you've got a wound bad enough to require you to superglue it shut...go to the ER.

Yea the super glue we all use and love, was originally invented as a way for combat medics to seal up wounds asap so they can get the person to a better place to fix them up. It ended up bonding things so well they just said screw it and made a version to sell on the market. Its basically the same stuff still. Unless your prone to infections, or if you go nuts and seal up a big ass gash, youll be totally fine. I do it all the time, Ive got a tube in my garage just for when Im working on something and smash a finger open, Ive got a way to keep it from bleeding every where.


OT
Ill probably never buy a piranha, as I dont really care for the Tau, but thanks for the heads up. They have nice surprises like that on a few vehicles as well. When I assembled the basilisk I own, I too had some spots where it wasnt very clear where or what goes on next. I remember I actually had a main part in the wrong slot at one point, so I had to break the glue bonds and re assemble that section. Little annoying

By all means, there's no issue with supergluing wounds up--but if you're going to do it, at least wash it with bactine before doing it

Cyanoacrylates were invented in 1942 by Dr. Harry Coover of Kodak Laboratories during experiments to make a special extra-clear plastic suitable for gun sights. Though these experiments failed (and later experiments for use in cockpit canopies) the astounding properties for use as an adhesive became very apparent and were even considered for medical purposes. Ironically this came to pass during the Vietnam war when a disposable spray Cyanoacrylate was developed to spray on serious battle wounds to allow time to evacuate the wounded without them bleeding out.

Although cyanoacrylate glues were useful on the battlefield, the American Food & Drug Agency was reluctant to approve them for civilian use. In part, this was due to a tendency of the early compounds (made from methyl-2-cyanoacrylate) to irritate the skin as the glue reacted with water and cured in the skin. Finally an improved cyanoacrylate glue was developed for medical applications called 2-octyl-cyanoacrylate. This latest incarnation was eventually approved by the FDA in 1998 and is now marketed under the name Traumaseal as well as the more popular Dermabond.

As for using your regular stuff at home... most cyanoacrylate glues not designed specifically for medical use are formulated from methyl-2-cyanoacrylate, since it produces the strongest bond. Not only can such glues irritate the skin, during polymerization they can generate significant heat, to the point of causing skin burns. In essence...go to the ER...it's safer!

Apparently I'm a git for suggesting you not use super glue to seal a wound. Cypher, ninja, and pipboy are correct though. Super glue that you put on plastic mans isn't intended to seal your wounds.

Back on topic, Piranha was a challenge to put together but I dry fitted every step in the process before I broke out the glue. You can use rubberbands to hold the larger parts in place. I actually played a game with my rubberband Piranha and Hammerhead. The dry fitting will help you get an idea on how it goes together, when you place certain parts and where to apply the glue so any over application would flow into areas which could not be seen when completed.

The new ork dread has a nice suprise for the unwary: the top part of the body doesn't fit if you've glued all the other parts together first; I suggest leaving one side off and glueing that last.

The Valkyrie manual is pretty poor, a couple of the steps it doesn't show very well where pieces are supposed to go and overall it really hinders the building process rather than helping it.

Hmm it would be nice if you'd be a bit more specific about the Valkyrie, I've never assembled one nor seen the guide, but this isn't just for telling what's bad, but for helping people out =P

I'm still waiting for my Devilfishes and my Hammerhead to arrive, they should show up any day now, so it would be nice if I could get any warnings beforehand.. Otherwise I'll come runnin' with it here myself, after ordering a new Devilfish as I might have thrown it out the window if it's too mean =o