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I was really remiss in documenting the construction of this model and apparently took a lot of photos of it in this state

The_Blackadder wrote:
There were two types of ribbon style printer cartridges both about 50cm long used for IBM fan fold printers. The case was 4mm black styrene and the cover was 3mm thick. I'll take a picture this weekend but just about any ribbon printer uses some sort of cartridge and it's a shame to toss all this great material in the trash. I've got about twenty left and I'm going to make a Warlord Titan after I finish my current project.

BTW I'd like to see these original templates from WD132.

The Blackadder

Here ya go!

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/tombworld4/pages/baneblade.html
http://web.telia.com/~u83806337/baneblade.html

They were good at the time they were printed, but have since been supplanted by the bwc stuff, which is far more accurate. The pieces on this one don't go togther too well. The bwc stuff is far superior. It's useful for reference, and not much else.

--Chris
www.chrisvalera.com

Chris,

Thanks for the templates, I already had those but I appreciate the effort. What I was hoping for was templates for the Titan Hunter. Why, I don't know as the model is finished except for a few details and some repairs as its seen hard usage already. I'm also looking for a source for bogie and drive wheels that would be compatible with Forgeworld style superheavy tanks. I was going to order the new Baneblade bitz from GWS but I understand they are not offering them anymore.

Thanks,

The Blackadder

can't believe I lost track of this forum. Things got really hectic last year and responsiblities in the real world took up a lot of my time. picking up where I left off (if anyone is still interested.)

Mr. Silva's main armament had alway been a bit of a disappointment to me so I decided my version would sport a Plasma Blastgun which of course is not available from Forge World.

I endeavored to make my own of bits of cartridge, epoxy resin, styrene rods, and styrene sheets.

The contoured front housing required a bit of sculpting which came out rather satisfactory but unfortunately the build proceeded too quick to document.

All I have is the finished product with the rear view showing the layered construction.

yep some of us are still watching to see how its going ^_^

How did you make the nuts/bolts/rivets on the gun?

Well thats it, I don't have any more WIP images.

I cannibalized a defunct Landraider for the dual lascannons and made castings of the treads and bogie wheels from a Shadowsword.

Nice, very nice. I'm glad to see you finished the tank - it looks great!

Tri wrote:yep some of us are still watching to see how its going ^_^

How did you make the nuts/bolts/rivets on the gun?

At this scale, average sized bolt heads are ostensibly round looking so I just used various sized straight pin heads which are available in most craft shops for ornament decorating. I use a Dremel and pin drillbits, cut the pins short and tap them in with a jeweller's hammer. usually they don't even need to be glued. For the fine rivets, I use styrene rods of about .020 to .030 inch diameter (don't know the metric equivalent) probably a quarter to a third MM. Drilling a hole with a pin drill and securing them with a touch of Ambroid Proweld plastic glue. The large nuts that line the front bumper were a bit of a headache for a while. I kept looking for model aircraft hardware of the right size. Finally I just bit the bullet and cut them out of a piece of thick walled styrene tubing and glued them onto plastic rods stuck into the bumper.

I'll be happy to answer any questions regarding construction.

EB

Just a few more images to finish up with. I'm especially happy about the way the detail on the roof came out. Just odds and ends from my son's bitz box and conduit made from styrene rods of various diameters. The only thing left is a Chin whisker whip antenna from a paint brush and one of these days I'll work up enough courage to drill the holes in the tread skirting access cover panels which will give more character to that rather bland area.

Not to say i don't appreciate mister silvas original work, but that plasma blastgun just makes yours that little bit better. its awesome.

A few more closeups of the superstructure.

The square hatch and the main gun elevation top shield were scratch built as was the main gun itself. The square hatch bumper was a piece of sprue.

The BX conduit to the lights and flare launchers is just twisted fine copper wire.

A funny thing about the driver's view port hatch. I scratch built the one pictured and then found out my son had a few in his bitz box. Oh well a little practice never hurts.

Now to my next project,

A scratch build Lucius Pattern Warhound Titan.

I hope to be more thorough in my documentation.

The Blackadder

amazing..... can't believe it all started as printer cartridges....

Cool

Did you cast with latex/resin?

Looks very cool.

O_o

Very nice

tallmantim wrote:Cool

Did you cast with latex/resin?

Looks very cool.

My Castings were made of Met-all epoxy resin using latex moulds. It's a very tedious process making latex moulds, if someone has a better method of casting parts I would be most appreciative of that information.

Well enough tapdancing around here is the finished product.

I used various sized straight pins for rivets and bits from Games Workshop models for hatches and vents, of course the sponsons from a landraider. Piping is just various sized styrene rods and the pipe couplings are styrene tubes. The electrical conduit is twisted fine wire to look like BX cable. The engine exhaust grid louvers are handmade from styrene stripes assembled on wax paper and glued in one piece to the engine compartment likewise the air intake covers. the exhaust pipes muffler assemblies are cast from a Lucius Baneblade. If anyone has any questions I'd be happy to answer them.

Here are some more images I found on my hard drive.

I've gotta get more organized,

The Blackadder

My next project is the Lucius Warhound Titan of which I have just finished the rough hull.

First off , Massive Awsome job!... and because it so awesomely cool ..i have to nit pick one thing thats bothering me..because you should have for that extra extra step!

The main gun is slighly askew.... it seems just a hair rotated and off center when looking at your model from the front and top.

All of your chassy lines are perfect and square and at the proper looking angles... when you factor in lay of the gun it looks off "line" from the rest of the hull, it sticks out to me....

Again... awesome job... but when your gona build at that skill and detail level as you did so brilantly ... well as they say "Its all in the Details"!!..

AtraAngelis wrote:First off , Massive Awsome job!... and because it so awesomely cool ..i have to nit pick one thing thats bothering me..because you should have for that extra extra step!

The main gun is slighly askew.... it seems just a hair rotated and off center when looking at your model from the front and top.

All of your chassy lines are perfect and square and at the proper looking angles... when you factor in lay of the gun it looks off "line" from the rest of the hull, it sticks out to me....

Again... awesome job... but when your gona build at that skill and detail level as you did so brilantly ... well as they say "Its all in the Details"!!..

Thanks for the input and the well meaning concern but that's a problem that is easily remedied as the gun isn't permanently mounted. It slides out in case I want to change the offensive weapon. It got knocked slightly askew in handling and I didn't notice it when taking the pictures. Of course, I could rationalize the angle by saying it's a trainable weapon so you don't have to turn the whole tank to aim (How primitive!) LOL. BTW, the gun can also be elevated or depressed to a small degree.

There is some residual tabletop battle damage that I also have to repair. One of the front tow hitches has broken off and numerous bogie skirt hinges as well. Considering how much my son has used it in the past year it's a testament to his care in handling it.

I'll fix all that when I detail the bogie access doors. I also never got around to installing the whip antenna.

Thanks for the reply and keeping me on my toes.

The not ready to rest on his laurels, Blackadder

Incidentally some of the atrosities that Forgeworld passes of as professionally manufactured models would curly your hair. I acquired a second hand 'Vulture' unassembled where one tail boom was a 1/4 inch shorter than the other! How would you fix that!!!

EB

OI!..removable..??? well then... ill just go sit back down and shut my pie-hole!

Well done....

Wow that's great definitely inspiration to try a Stompa for my very own self.

Very nice conversion work.

Could have saved lot of work i think and ised a baneblade as the base, like Mr. Silva did.

Other than that, lets see it painted now!!!

AtraAngelis wrote:OI!..removable..??? well then... ill just go sit back down and shut my pie-hole!

Well done....

Nothing of the sort, I appreciate the input.

EB

Joyous_Oblivion wrote:Very nice conversion work.

Could have saved lot of work i think and ised a baneblade as the base, like Mr. Silva did.

I don't think he used anything but his imagination to build his tank. The bogie wheels are obviously home made(note the lack of detail and the tread links are only one type, no skull designs on the treads.

Plus where's the fun in buying something if you can try to make it.

Other than that, lets see it painted now!!!

Er, it is painted, grey

Thanks very much for your reply. I post these threads in the hope of establishing a dialog regarding scratchbuilding techniques and picking up some tips on how to better accomplish my work. My biggest downfall is my unimaginative painting but hell, I just happen to like grey and black and when you think about it, elephants, rhinos, and hippos aren't camoflaged so why should Baneblades be. Picture if you will a lumbering monster of a tank 10 meters square counting the sponsons and seven meters high mowing down fully grown trees like saplings what do you camoflage it as? a great big boulder. It's not like there isn't something like radar guided missiles 38,000 years from now.

I happen to like grey

The monochromatic Blackadder

Llamahead wrote:Wow that's great definitely inspiration to try a Stompa for my very own self.

The beauty of a Stompa is you really can't get it wrong I just googled 'stompa' and there is half a dozen versions on the first image page. Good luck.

EB

You can metalize the weapons for a little visual contrast.

I think Mr. Silva used a lot of imagination, but he definately based it off a Mars class Baneblade from Forgeworld.

I can post pics to prove it, but you can also look at FW website under Guard Superheavies.

The hull sides are identical. He has slightly modified the tracks, but only very slightly, the bogies are homegrown.

Forgot to add, liking grey isn't a bad thing, but it can be done with detail and look amazing if done right.

I thought yours was just at the basecoated stage when I saw the pics, no marking or detail work done. If you are ok with that, thats fine, I was just thinking you were just about to start painting it.

Rad to the max! Awesome work man. Me = jealous

Simply outstanding. Thanks for taking the time to share your work with us.

Hello there boys and Girls.
This is your own Mr. Silva writing on this thread.
First of all congratulations to BlackA for your efforts and on the recycling idea.
Now let's go for a little history lesson.
I first started with the infamous WD 132. At the time I was still living in Brazil, where the access to modelling supplies was very difficult, so styrene was out of the question.
I had to use chipboard for the structure and a stiff cardboard to cover the chipboard so it would take paint.
After a while, I moved to California, but being so used to modeling with "paper" I decided to build my first version of the Titanjaeger using the same materials.
If you look closely, the front return wheels are core of receipt paper rolls. The track links were cast in metal since nobody at the time even considered a plastic Baneblade and Forgeworld to this day still refuses to sell parts. Some plastic parts from GW kits were used as they at FW also do and yes, I agree the main gun was a little disappointing.
After that I gave in to styrene and started using this wonderful plastic for my projects.
Then came the Stormhammer, for which I scratchbuilt and cast virtually everything including new track links, the same width of the original ones from FW ( the ones on the first version of the Titanjaeger were narrower)
And then the Titajaeger Ausf 2, for which I decided to make a decent gun this time, and again everything on it is from scratch, it's not a FW hull converted.
I'll post a couple of pictures from said models so you guys can compare.
My latest work was a Warhound which I'm posting photos in the end of the topic.
I thank you all for the kind words, now on to some pics:
First the Stormhammer:





Then the Titanjaeger Ausf II







And for last my Warhound, which was sold on e-bay for US$ 950.00 (I guess I got some appreciation after all...)

Very nice work Mr. Silva.

Now I know this will be controversial, but either you cast GW parts to make yours, or they cast yours to make the baneblade parts, as some things are exactly the same on the models, while other are so close it hurts.

I don't care if you did, or don't want to say here on a public site, I still think it looks awesome.

To J. Oblivion: I'm not sure that that is necessarily the case. Although the mini definitely does reference some GW plastic bits. Making a piece that is similar isn't all that hard.


To Mr. Silva: Man, I didn't know that anyone in Brazil played 40k. I had a hard time finding any RPG material down there, much less tabletop miniatures games.