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Dagnabbit saw a review of the Vallejo one somewhere but idiot that I am can't remember where!

It sounds very similar tbh
Will pop up a linky if I find it Poda

This actually sounds different (if still useful)

Plastic Putty

A modelling paste which dries to a white, totally opaque, stone hard finish. It is used principally for rebuilding or restructuring models and miniatures, for textures and high reliefs

quoted from http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/gb/auxiliaries-model-paints.html

Not the review I saw but still might be helpful:
http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=52421

Off the back of the blog review I thought that I would give LGS a spin, but have visited two quite large GWs in the last 3 days and found that they are out of stock.

Both have said that it is flying off the shelves faster that GWhq can send it out to them. One was expecting his fourth delivery of it since release.

There appears to be a demand for it. As for whether it is any good, who knows as I still don't have a fething pot!

Oh boy, really?

Liquid Green Stuff is nothing else than green-tinted woodglue.

Guess what you can do with that PVAglue? Put it on with a brush, make it sit in place properly with a brush, it's water solluable and it will dry rather hard but still flexible.


Liquid Green Stuff is nothing else.

Save yourself the money, get PVA glue and use it.

I suspect it is not just green PVA, I'm pretty sure that one of the reviewers might have noticed a detail like that.

Unless you know fir sure archont?

It doesn't sound like wood glue or it is modified some how
Will try and experiment to see if wood glue works but am very sceptical as I think it will sink too much.

Also will ask again, has anyone primed and painted it yet and does it blend smoothly with the plastic.
How well does it sand please?

I just got a pot and it definitely isn't coloured PVA.

I've not used it but let some dry on my finger and it has more in common with Paint than glue or adhesive right down to the smell. What little aroma it has smells like acrylic varnish. If it has filler then it is very fine evidenced by it sinking into the cracks and undulations in my finger prints.

Interesting stuff, I'll try it on a model as soon as i can.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Funnily enough the now dryed LGS is a bit rubbery aka greenstuff proper.

Would you be able to use it in a mold? Was wondering about using it with Instant Mold...

Mick

What kind of brush works best with it? I don't suppose a fine detail brush would work. Maybe something closer to a medium brush? I have several of those.

No idea Mick but going on the basis that it is for smaller gaps am thinking it won't work well

I like your thinking though, a pourable "clay slip" type of medium other than resin that could easily get into fine detail has appeal.

It might be possible to build up layers maybe?

Possibly as it is a liquid, but I understand it does shrink so it would depend on that.

Further since its intended purpose is to fill small gaps and also sit as a flat layer I'm guessing it may not have the required properties in a block.

Finally pouring liquids into mould requires pressure of some sort or a very simple shape to get in all the details. Instamould favours press moulding to get into the details, this won't be possible with LGS.

@ Samus - I don't see any restriction on brushes. It is similar to a thick paint in viscosity so any old brush should do the trick, I think the knack will be in cutting you cloth to the size of the gap. Too big a brush over too small a gap may see you covering the gap But leaving a void underneath, too small a brush might leave you doing too many layers. ATM I think we will have to suck it a see, new material and all that.

Just realized: HOLY EMPRAH! 3.70$ Cheap as a mother!

Also I understand the LGS to be fairly viscous and would need thinning to pour
I think it would be hard to get into the details as Notprop says

Samus_aran115 wrote:Just realized: HOLY EMPRAH! 3.70$ Cheap as a mother!

True it's only a couple of quid, but it's only one of GWs 12ml paint pots so ymmv.

Samus_aran115 wrote:What kind of brush works best with it? I don't suppose a fine detail brush would work. Maybe something closer to a medium brush? I have several of those.

The article in WD about it suggests the "GW drybrush as its stronger" so I'd suggest using it with a synthetic brush. I've given it its own brush because I accidentally let it dry on the brush. Be aware, it dries in 2-3 minutes, not the 20-30 minutes that acrylic gives you. :|

LadyCassandra wrote:

Samus_aran115 wrote:What kind of brush works best with it? I don't suppose a fine detail brush would work. Maybe something closer to a medium brush? I have several of those.

The article in WD about it suggests the "GW drybrush as its stronger" so I'd suggest using it with a synthetic brush. I've given it its own brush because I accidentally let it dry on the brush. Be aware, it dries in 2-3 minutes, not the 20-30 minutes that acrylic gives you. :|

Even in Florida, where it is commonly very high humidity, unless I am specifically using things to speed the drying process, drying of anything rarely takes more than 5 minutes. The fact that it dries in 2-3 minutes is about normal for when I'm painting. (Of course I tend to use relatively thin coats of paint and am somewhat horrified when I see someone else painting out of a pot of gloppy paint (I paint out of the pot as well, but my paints are always thinned a lot and the tops of the pots are cleaned out whenever there is any sort of dried buildup.

Norsehawk wrote:The fact that it dries in 2-3 minutes is about normal for when I'm painting. (Of course I tend to use relatively thin coats of paint and am somewhat horrified when I see someone else painting out of a pot of gloppy paint (I paint out of the pot as well, but my paints are always thinned a lot and the tops of the pots are cleaned out whenever there is any sort of dried buildup.

Fair enough, I'm in the UK and I paint out of a palette with pools, so it dries much more slowly on the palette than it does on the brush.

Well, I used the LGS last night and it seems pretty good, though it still needs another sanding and another diluted coverage to minimise the brushstrokes, in my opinion.


Click for larger pictures

It doesn't sand brilliantly, but another thin layer over the sand area seems to do the job. Apart from the brushstroke effect I got, it did really well. Very pleased.

I've written up a review and how to guide avaiable on my website

link

Quick run down of answers to common questions:

I've found that it is unsuitable to be used as a mould (the putty is too brittle).
It feel like hardened green stuff to sand (not brilliant, but you can sand it).
This is the same stuff as Vallejo's brand putty (although there are a couple of interesting methods floating around to change this).
I apply the liquid green stuff with an old paint brush that has retained its point, and I also use a clay shaper.

LilLoser

I'm pretty happy with it. It's easier to use than Tamiya or Testors putty*, doesn't smell like chemical death like squadron green, and is about as easy to apply as thick paint. You can get some details into it, but it's not really sculptable like real green stuff, so I'm going to be using it just as a gap filler and surface smoother. I'll be happy if someone figures out an art-store alternative that costs half as much for twice the volume, but it's a good tool and not too pricey.

*I shouldn't put Tamiya and Testors putty in the same category. It's even easier to use than Tamiya putty, which is very good stuff, and a hundred times easier to use than the horrid Testors putty.

It will proably be quite useful for filling in bubble holes and when you are sculpting a miniture, or filling in a gap.

HAZZER

I'm preferring the liquid greenstuff to the Vallejo putty. It seems to dry harder / less powdery. The colour helps when working over greenstuff (white putties make it very hard to judge what's smooth without priming the whole thing). Very reactive with water, can be smoothed and blended with a wet brush. Dries nice and fast, fills larger gaps MUCH more easily than Vallejo. Copes with a sanding and a filing, when dried fully.

A hairdryer is GREAT with this stuff. You can cure it really hard, really quite fast. Big plus point. I like it a lot...

All in all, a great product (BUY SOME!) that should have been released a long time ago. It'll suffer now with a 'finecast repair product' reputation. It's really a lot more useful than that.

Thanks for that summary Winterdyne
Have you primed any yet?

As a fwiw I tried some waterproof pva wood glue but chickened out using it neat as a filler and added some talcumn powder.
It worked well on a small ejection pin mark and sanded nicely.
Used it on a couple more and the filler came out of the shallow hole when sanding.
So I added a tad more talc and it worked well.
This suggests that neat wood glue won't be ideal as a filler.
Unless I did something wrong.

Has anybody tried Plasto, it is rather nice. I might try this stuff in the future, it might even replace plasto.

Never heard of PLasto. Got a link?

Anyone know a place you can buy Citadel Liquid Green Stuff from online. Haven't had any luck.

You can always order direct from GW.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470007a&prodId=prod1380020a

Breotan wrote:You can always order direct from GW.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470007a&prodId=prod1380020a

Okay more specifically, someone who doesn't charge $7 for shipping and or one I might buy other things from?

You're going to get charged a sum for shipping, either way.

GW do free shipping for orders over £10 in the UK
Is there not similar shipping in the USA? If so just add it to an order?

Chibi Bodge-Battle wrote:GW do free shipping for orders over £10 in the UK
Is there not similar shipping in the USA? If so just add it to an order?

Silly people buying direct from GW. Haha...

Ok
order half a dozen bottles of Liquid GS
free postage and Christmas presents for the family sorted.

It' s a WIN WIN type thing