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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
BeAfraid wrote:
I do not understand the need to "sand" primer on miniatures.
You have obviously never built a model submarine.

Needing to sand after a primer coat is a little common is 'regular' scale modeling compared to miniature war gaming.


When I painted motorcycles (mostly mine and a friends), sanding primer was a given.

But I do not see many miniatures where sanding the primer would do anything but remove the primer.

And I have sanded primer on scale models, before (specifically, 1/300 scale WWII ships).

But I do not see many miniatures where sanding the primer would do anything but remove it, given what I saw on the ships (where only the hull had any surface areas where sanding was needed.

This is one of the reasons Tamiya, and other model-makers created their own primers: To obviate the need to sand them. Tamiya Primer is so smooth that I find little difference between the sanded and the unsanded.

It is also porous enough that the grain provided by sanding seems to make no difference.

I would like to see an example of a model that has the primer sanded versus the same model painted (by the same person) without sanding the primer (ideally without the person doing the painting knowing if they were painting a sanded or unsanded model).

MB




Automatically Appended Next Post:
 goblinzz wrote:
Krylon can be fine. As you see, lots of people sing its praises. However, personally I find it pretty hit and miss. I think it is thicker than a good model primer, and it is possible to screw up much more easily using it.

GW/army painter undercoats are not actually primers, but undercoats, and are expensive. I don't think they are outstanding, but work well enough.

Tamiya is the best of that range.

However, as noted above, if you get airbrush and a big ass bottle of primer, and are seriously into the hobby, that will work out cheaper int he long run, and hey, you now have an airbrush.

I've also switched recently to airbrushing my primers from tamiya, and am happier with those than anything from a rattle can.


Well, yeah. . . duh.

MB


Automatically Appended Next Post:
And...

I do not know if I said it before.

Given a choice, go with a model primer like Tamiya.

But this does not mean that Krylon is evil (I prefer it massively to Rustoleum).

I used it for years before switching to Citadel Primer, when they first made their own in the late-80s (prior to the GW purchase).

And then switching to Tamiya when I started painting again after the late/ex-wife thing.

But... if I had to switch to a cheaper primer, then it would be Krylon.

MB

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2015/06/28 07:04:45


 
   
Made in us
Tail-spinning Tomb Blade Pilot





Los Angeles, CA

flat black krylon ultra is excellent.

DZC - Scourge
 
   
Made in us
Furious Fire Dragon





The Krylon Fusion Ultra-Flat Black (from the camouflage line?) works well for me. I just started using a Krylon yellow as a primer/basecoat that's worked well enough so far--and definitely better than the Army Painter Demon Yellow. Every color of Army Painter has blown dust for me at one point or another. :(

The Tamaya stuff sounds interesting.
   
Made in us
Maniacal Gibbering Madboy






Edited: I shouldn't react to people being rude on online forums by also being rude.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/06/29 16:49:19


 
   
Made in us
Lieutenant General





Florence, KY

BeAfraid wrote:
 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
BeAfraid wrote:
I do not understand the need to "sand" primer on miniatures.
You have obviously never built a model submarine.

Needing to sand after a primer coat is a little common is 'regular' scale modeling compared to miniature war gaming.


When I painted motorcycles (mostly mine and a friends), sanding primer was a given.

But I do not see many miniatures where sanding the primer would do anything but remove the primer.

I never said anything about sanding. You use it like any other spray on primer. You spray it on the model, let it dry and then paint.

'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents
cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable
defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'

- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty
Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
 
   
Made in ca
Sickening Carrion




Vancouver Island, Canada

So I bought the Ultra-Flat Black Camouflage stuff from Krylon. Slapped it onto a test model and it seems solid. Certainly not mind blowing by any means, but considering it was $13 less than the GW stuff, it's pretty great.

Do what you love and love what you do. Like sell firewood. 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
BeAfraid wrote:
I do not understand the need to "sand" primer on miniatures.
You have obviously never built a model submarine.

Needing to sand after a primer coat is a little common is 'regular' scale modeling compared to miniature war gaming.


I've never built a submarine, but I've built stuff like voidravens and crimson hunters. I'm very curious, though. Why do you sand the primer coat? What is the benefit? Why not sand it down first, then apply primer evenly?

At times, if I miss a mold line, I will use a sanding block to take it down (after it's been primed). But I've never found a need (or advantage?) something the size of a scale model after it's been primed -- but if there's a way to do a better job, I'm all ears.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/06/30 20:07:17


 
   
Made in us
Boosting Space Marine Biker




Texas

I have also used dupli-color sandable primer. Sandable means you can sand it after application and it won't flake.

Pros
Drys a very matte black, gray, or white
Usable in just about any weather condition, especially humid ones like where I live
Sticks to any surface (metal, resin, or plastic) very well.
Goes on fine and doesn't clog detail
Very inexpensive ($5 to $7 per can)
Readily available, e.g. closest hobby store is 45 minutes away, closest auto supply is 5 minutes away, with 3 to 5 more within 25 minutes. (I know, Amazon/mail order is as close as your front door........)
Paint "bites" really well
Drys quickly

Cons
Its a spray paint and can clog detail if not careful
Its a spray paint so you must be mindful of the over spray.
Its a spray paint, so must use it in a proper environment (outdoors, good ventilation, etc.)
Its a spray paint, so it is sometimes difficult to manipulate the spray to get even coverage in some of the nooks and crannies vs a traditional brush or air brush
It must be shaken "well"!
Its finish is somewhat inferior to Tamiya and Vallejo Polyurethane primer.

Also, just remember that regardless of the type of aerosol based primer you use, you need to purge the nozzle at the end of your paint session to keep paint from clogging the nozzle. Also distance from model to spray nozzle is critical as the paint can literally dry in mid air causing all kinds of problems.

Won't call it my two cents as I think I spent more than 2 cents worth of time on this post and what with inflation and (for Canada) foreign exchange rates, lets call it my $1.50. Besides who wants just two cents worth of advice!?

"Preach the gospel always, If necessary use words." ~ St. Francis of Assisi 
   
Made in us
Lieutenant General





Florence, KY

 Lord of Deeds wrote:
Cons
Its a spray paint and can clog detail if not careful
Its a spray paint so you must be mindful of the over spray.
Its a spray paint, so must use it in a proper environment (outdoors, good ventilation, etc.)
Its a spray paint, so it is sometimes difficult to manipulate the spray to get even coverage in some of the nooks and crannies vs a traditional brush or air brush
It must be shaken "well"!
Its finish is somewhat inferior to Tamiya and Vallejo Polyurethane primer.

All except for that last one applies to any spray paint, and I imagine most of those apply to airbrushes as well (you might not have to shake your airbrush. I'm not sure as I don't have one )..

'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents
cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable
defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'

- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty
Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
 
   
Made in us
Frightening Flamer of Tzeentch





Somewhere

Does krylon make a high gloss black? Will it hold up to catalyzing 2 component high gloss clear coat?

I have some fancy prismatic auto paint for my Harly jet bikes and void weavers and I want the best result. It needs to applied over high gloss black.

I am wondering if I could just use Tamiya. I also want to do a slight white diamond pattern before the clear coat and prism paint. Would it be feasible to apply high gloss white primer, cut some diamonds out of masking tape and add to the nose. Go over entire model with high gloss black and remove the tape to reveal the pattern?

would that work? Using black and white high gloss go create a pattern? Does Tamiya make a high gloss?

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2015/07/02 23:45:40


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Made in ca
Sickening Carrion




Vancouver Island, Canada

Bit of an update on the Krylon Primer: Used it. Liked it. Been using it for a few weeks (got Black, Grey, and White). I went to use my white a little while ago and the lid was really on there for some reason (as far as I could tell, there was no primer leaking so there was no dry paint). So I gave it a good yank and the whole nozzle came off! White primer everywhere. So at the end, since I still don't have an airbrush, I might be picking up Tamiya primer sometime next week.

Do what you love and love what you do. Like sell firewood. 
   
Made in ca
Nasty Nob





Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

 PaulTheFirewoodSalesman wrote:
Bit of an update on the Krylon Primer: Used it. Liked it. Been using it for a few weeks (got Black, Grey, and White). I went to use my white a little while ago and the lid was really on there for some reason (as far as I could tell, there was no primer leaking so there was no dry paint). So I gave it a good yank and the whole nozzle came off! White primer everywhere. So at the end, since I still don't have an airbrush, I might be picking up Tamiya primer sometime next week.


WoW! Never heard of that man, sorry to hear. I've went through 20+ cans of the stuff and never had that issue. It could be how you're storing it or how you clean it after the spray session. Or it could just be some random bad luck :(

Try out tamiya for sure, but I can tell you from my experience that what happened to you was definitely an exception, not the rule.

Best of luck!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/07/26 17:29:09


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