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Made in gb
Fighter Ace




England

Since when was 6`x4` the standard playing area. Back in 2nd edition 8`x4` was the norm and model counts were a fraction of what they are now.

Personally my ideal table would be 5` wide by 9` long. This gives you a 8`x4` playing area, plus a 6" space around it. This is plenty of room for unit stat cards, dead models, reserves and Dice boxes. I have come to loathe the practice of rolling dice in the play area, the amount of stray dice, knocked over models etc is just.... getting off my soapbox that's a different conversation.

Height wise assume gamers will be standing, but have suitable seating for the height, I.e. bar stools (preferably with some sort of back support) Most places I play have tables designed to be sat at, which is great but when a game is close I'll always find myself stood up, bending over and getting back ache.

A shelf underneath for bags / coats etc would be nice, but make sure it isn't in a position where it is likely to get kneed by a someone sitting at the table, as that will knock the whole table and send models flying.

If designed for the home, the ability to fold up and store in as small a space as possible is a must. In the end the 4 2`x4` £8 ikea tables with screw on legs I have got brought because they could be stored on the rafters of the garage without her indoors moaning. And now that I think about my perfect table, they seem rather underwhelming...........

it's the quiet ones you have to look out for. Their the ones that change the world, the loud ones just take the credit for it. 
   
Made in us
Storm Trooper with Maglight



EARTH- America- Rochester MI

Elbows wrote:I suggest trays/etc. to be placed very carefully - preferably on the short ends of the board (or completely under the table). Everyone knows that gamers who are fat or wear loose clothing. That means guts and shirts dragging models/items/dice etc. off the shelf or crushing/breaking stuff. Don't make a pull-out/roll-out tray because someone will bump into it and break/ruin everything.

4-5' is definitely enough for two opposing tables, but obviously the more space the better.


Bumping into things is a nasty habit, designing a sufficient locking mechanism will be interesting. Now, trays, require less ingenuity and reduce risk of heaftier folks accidentally demolishing things. Should Trays be kept below the table (on a shelf) or separate table? Additionally, how high of a rim should trays have? I'd guess at least 1.5" to successfully prevent most toppling models from abandoning-tray.

roflmajog wrote:You don't need too much space between the short edges of the tables, you can be playing from one long board edge or the other with the space at the sides just to get from one to the other. Either make it wide enough for two people to comfortably stand side by side or small enough that it isn't comfortable to stand in the gap too long.

If you go for slide out or fold out trays make sure they have a good locking system so they don't drop everything on them on the ground when someone knocks it.


I'm open for suggestions on locking mechanisms. I was thinking a wooden stick under-mounted on a slide out that once pulled out far enough could pivot to prevent the shelf from re-entering the channel it was pulled from. If that makes any sense. Semi-similar to the fold-up leaves on some kitchen and end tables.

Tamereth wrote:Height wise assume gamers will be standing, but have suitable seating for the height, I.e. bar stools (preferably with some sort of back support) Most places I play have tables designed to be sat at, which is great but when a game is close I'll always find myself stood up, bending over and getting back ache.

A shelf underneath for bags / coats etc would be nice, but make sure it isn't in a position where it is likely to get kneed by a someone sitting at the table, as that will knock the whole table and send models flying.

If designed for the home, the ability to fold up and store in as small a space as possible is a must. In the end the 4 2`x4` £8 ikea tables with screw on legs I have got brought because they could be stored on the rafters of the garage without her indoors moaning. And now that I think about my perfect table, they seem rather underwhelming...........


Do the stores that provide stools give leg room under the gaming tables? I'm afraid that encouraging feet under a table will encourage leg-swinging and potential kicking that could end up knocking the tables.

I realize I play a lot of devils advocate here.

 
   
Made in us
Irked Necron Immortal





Jackson, TN

Local Shop has 4 built tables

https://ibb.co/m2Lvfa

https://ibb.co/h2aT0a

Lots of room when not being used for the Apoc game last year.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/02/17 02:03:52


 
   
Made in ca
Stubborn Dark Angels Veteran Sergeant





Halifax, Nova Scotia

 Tamereth wrote:
Since when was 6`x4` the standard playing area. Back in 2nd edition 8`x4` was the norm and model counts were a fraction of what they are now.

Personally my ideal table would be 5` wide by 9` long. This gives you a 8`x4` playing area, plus a 6" space around it. This is plenty of room for unit stat cards, dead models, reserves and Dice boxes. I have come to loathe the practice of rolling dice in the play area, the amount of stray dice, knocked over models etc is just.... getting off my soapbox that's a different conversation.

Height wise assume gamers will be standing, but have suitable seating for the height, I.e. bar stools (preferably with some sort of back support) Most places I play have tables designed to be sat at, which is great but when a game is close I'll always find myself stood up, bending over and getting back ache.

A shelf underneath for bags / coats etc would be nice, but make sure it isn't in a position where it is likely to get kneed by a someone sitting at the table, as that will knock the whole table and send models flying.

If designed for the home, the ability to fold up and store in as small a space as possible is a must. In the end the 4 2`x4` £8 ikea tables with screw on legs I have got brought because they could be stored on the rafters of the garage without her indoors moaning. And now that I think about my perfect table, they seem rather underwhelming...........


10x5 is the size of a regulation size ping pong table. They come in folding units too - but can be a bit pricey.
   
Made in us
Infiltrating Broodlord





Indiana

I'm lucky that I just bought a house recently with a roughly 14'x14'+ that will serve no other purpose than being my 40k room.

I've actually given some thought on what I will be putting in there, and came up with a fairly solid plan for the standard 6x4 table that will be in there, not including the 4x4 that will be it's companion.

My Perfect Table:
3x3in table legs for stability and weight support.
Standard 2x4 braces running between legs for bracing at top and 6 inches from bottom with metal brackets for ease of assembly and disassembly.
Under the table, put in a small shelf on each side roughly 5'4" wide by 1'11" deep to account for raised edges to keep books from falling off.
Convert about 1 foot of the above mentioned shelf into a folding dice tower box to allow for ease of dice rolling.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/02/17 03:43:05


"There is a cancer eating at the Imperium. With each decade it advances deeper, leaving drained, dead worlds in its wake. This horror, this abomination, has thought and purpose that functions on an unimaginable, galactic scale and all we can do is try to stop the swarms of bioengineered monsters it unleashes upon us by instinct. We have given the horror a name to salve our fears; we call it the Tyranid race, but if is aware of us at all it must know us only as Prey."
Hive Fleet Grootslang 15000+
Servants of the Void 2000+ 
   
Made in za
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle





South Africa

The nice aspect of having an 8x4 table is i often have Kill team nights where a couple guys come round and we have 2 games on the go at a time

Facts are chains that bind perception and fetter truth. For a man can remake the world if he has a dream and no facts to cloud his mind. 
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord






Yep, I agree that an 8x4 is great for doubling up skirmish games (and again, having a 6x4 play surface with side room to spare).

 
   
Made in us
Guard Heavy Weapon Crewman





Just built some wooden tables for warhammer. Made two 4'x4' folding tables that latch together. It's easier to store and the 4'x4' tables makes a excellent card table.
   
Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka






My games room is 2.70m wide, which lets me comfortably fit a 2.44 x 1.22m (8' x 4')table. It's slightly over a metre (3' 4") high, which lets me reach comfortably into the middle of the table, and is a comfortable height for standing at. I've got about 750mm (30") around the table, which is plenty to move around, and plenty of storage space and shelves underneath.

If I had the room, I'd like a table 2.44 x 1.83m (ie 6' wide); the extra depth gives you more room for deployed artillery and second lines to defend against enemy Deep Striking reserves in 40k. It's about as wide as can be comfortably reached across, although you'd need to be careful about models at the edge.

I used a sheet of 18mm plywood with edging strips added. Filled and sanded, then painted green. If I wanted something a bit more interesting, I'd have added "texture" with different shades of paint; while textured boards look better, they're annoying to play on.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




I have ergonomic mats on the floor beside my main table, it's pretty sweet! As for the table itself, definitely needs to be able to be stored easily and the shelves below would be a nice touch.

Hard to have both though...

   
Made in at
Fresh-Faced New User





Hello Everyone !

I know this post is old but i kindly wanted to ask your help and input.

I am the founder of Rathskellers.

We are manufacturing handcrafted Gaming Tables and we are getting lots of requests for a 4x6 gaming table specially made for Warhammer.

How to build the Perfect Warhammer Gaming Table? What you would like to see ? Ideas, thoughts , queries?

Thanks for your help.
Thanos
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut






In a table which is a permanent feature, storage space for scenery etc. would be an important feature.

In a temporary table, the focus would be on collapsibility and protection of the playing surface, as wel las on the overall sturdiness of the table (I play an all-metal dreadmob sometimes, it's got to be strong!) jokes aside, I lean on the table when I'm reaching for the middle - it has to take my (not insignificant) weight without bending or worse, breaking!


Orks in 8th, W/D/L
9/0/3 
   
Made in us
Monster-Slaying Daemonhunter





ImpGuardPanzies wrote:
Hello, my fellow gaming nerds. Play you a loyalist, heretic, immortal, or even a space bug, you need a surface to play on, and you all dream of things unachievable (better codexes, winning, or a place to play your game without getting sore feet by the end).

I'd like to develop some conceptual ideas for a gaming table tailored to WH40k; not the game, but the player. Similar to Mazda's development of cars for the driver experience, not safety or performance.

Let's get the obvious out of the way. Table and environment features need to be:

1) 6'x4' surface
2) Sturdy table(generally a wooden construction)
3) Space for players, extra models, and reference books
4) somewhere with atmosphere, oxygen, no fire, etc.

Now lets dream a little, what features have you found helpful at LFGC or constantly wish you had available (chairs, stools, extra table space, shelves, etc.)? Terrain not included, as terrain and board decoration are more about the game and less the experience for the player. What color or material should the table be? Where do you like your extra storage space so you know your resting models are safe and not fleeing out the door in the hands of another Warmaster?

You love the game, what could make the experience better?


I use a 7'x4' table at home. It gives a 6" space at the ends for staging units. If the table hadn't been designed for trains before being repurposed for wargaming, I would have designed it to be wider along the long edges too, possibly with pull-outs that can slide or fold out from underneath the table on rails to support my stuff and lock in the out position so my staging grounds and casualty zones will always be at the base of my deployment. One observation is that we often wind up using the 6" space as a casualty area with the staged army pre-deployment and reserves going on a little tables.

The table should be low enough to bend over, but tall enough that you don't have to bend over far or could sit down in a chair and comfortably see over it. maybe waist high or lower.

The gaming area should be shallowly recessed, so that map tiles with negative space like trench works, gun pits, and excavated craters can be placed into it and still be flush with the edge of the board. There should be a lot of geomorphic map tiles so that the board can be have many variations, some with depressions and hills. It should also be possible to place tile into place that are completely flat to turn the whole thing into a big flat table for traditional wargames.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/05/20 23:27:17


Guardsmen, hear me! Cadia may lie in ruin, but her proud people do not! For each brother and sister who gave their lives to Him as martyrs, we will reap a vengeance fiftyfold! Cadia may be no more, but will never be forgotten; our foes shall tremble in fear at the name, for their doom shall come from the barrels of Cadian guns, fired by Cadian hands! Forward, for vengeance and retribution, in His name and the names of our fallen comrades! 
   
Made in us
I'll Be Back




I think some of it first depends on its location. Is it going to be used at a store, or for home use? Also while considering both, portability and the ability to move around and store the table itself may also be something a person might want.

Some general things I can think of is having the playing area of the table be recessed into the table with a lip around the edge. This feature does wonders for helping keep dice on the table, which is a big quality of life improvement while playing.

Another feature to consider is not only storage underneath to keep terrain nice and tidy, but also extra playing space on top for placing books, extra figures, dice, and so on. This can either be done by making the table slightly larger, which a number of people have mentioned making a 4 by 8 table, instead of the standard 4 by 6. But this also makes the foot print of the table much larger, and if space is an issue, this may not work. Adding in ether a wider lip, or small shelf on the long ends of the table can add some extra surface, without adding to much to the over all size of the table.

But saying that, especially when it comes to tables in stores, i have seen that a number of stores, when a large battle of 40k is arrange, often times tables will be pushed together to make a larger, single table. And depending on the design of the table, can make this a breeze, or not an option at all.

Lastly is table height. Either barstool/standing height or dining room table height so that it can be sat at, with your standard chair.

I know for myself, I am currently designing and getting ready to build a 40k table for my house, which will be a permanent piece of furniture in my shop. So for me personally, it all comes down to comfort, and making playing a game as enjoyable as possible. It will also have storage in the bottom, all the extra space for books and accessories, as well as electrical outlets, since I use most of my books on a tablet, and I know many others do as well.
   
Made in us
Ancient Ultramarine Venerable Dreadnought






Major threadomancy, btw.

And They Shall Not Fit Through Doors!!!

Tyranid Army Progress -- With Classic Warriors!:
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/743240.page#9671598 
   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran




I was trying to design a modular surface using 2 x 4 foot tiles; there was an old WD that had an article about how to design tiles so that roads and rivers could match up.

I like prototyping with extremely low cost- free materials, but finding corrugated cardboard in 2' x 4' is almost impossible and even 2 x 2 is hard. So my tiles are 1 x 1. It will take 32 tiles to build and 8 x 4 surface, so if you overbuild, you can make multiple layouts.

My tile surfaces consist of different balances of textures: road, foundation, and natural. Special sets would include waterways and rails.

Each tile is 3 layers thick. I create depressions in foundation textures by cutting holes in the top one or two layers. These depressions can be filled with drinking straws for pipes (elbow straws have the greatest potential; multiple diameters are a bonus), LED's, or even monster bits. Then you put a layer of nylon mesh over the depression to form a grate, and a final layer of cereal box cardboard for frames to the grating.

Roads are just flat- bare corrugated cardboard painted as a road. Natural I'm debating; I could go felt or flock. I'm leaning to flock, because some of my scenery pieces that will eventually sit on these tiles are flocked. But I need to find a good fixative to lock the flock down, because it's a pain when the stuff "sheds."

Currently, I have 4 tiles built and access to material for another 10 or so laying around.

Now that's all surface. The actual table is less relevant, beyond the size of the base, for which I would go 8 x4. You could store this thing vertically against a wall; pull it out and drop it on any table, then build an attractive surface using your tile set.

But we're wishlisting, right?

So once, my friend and I tried a stop motion animation project. We took 960 photographs over five turns. Because of the photography, it took us two days to finish the game.

So the dream is no table at all. The surface is on pulleys so that you can lower it to playing height or pull it up out of the way. This allows you to store a game in progress. This is tricky, and I'm not sure I have the skills to do it. Until I finish my tile set, there's no need to build the actual table.

Nine tiles would give me a 3 x 3 Kill Team surface. Rearranging the tiles in different locations and orientations provides a lot of variety of table layouts, even without redundant tiles. The next milestone would be 16 tiles for the 4 x 4, 500-1k point table. then 24 for the 4 x 6 2k point table, and finally 32 for the full on 8 x 4 Apocalypse table.

As I hit each of those benchmarks, I'm planning on putting up a video. I'm not a great craftsman, and my work is rough cut stuff- it's meant to be a prototype after all, or rather, proof of concept. Even if folks don't like the finished product, they might benefit from seeing some of the design, which they can then modify to suit their skill level and access to resources and tools. If it works well, and if I use it regularly, I might eventually consider building my own upgrade using better materials and cutting with better tools and greater attention to details. The great thing about a carboard tile set is that if you do decide to replace it, you're not out tons of cash.


This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/05/21 00:36:21


 
   
Made in nz
[MOD]
Villanous Scum






 Insectum7 wrote:
Major threadomancy, btw.


Indeed. Please do not dredge up old threads to ask questions, necromancy is a forbidden, dark and terrible art suited only to fantasy players.

On parle toujours mal quand on n'a rien à dire.
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