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Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





Painting metal for me all day long. Much easier. In general, even old sculpts have much deeper undercuts/recesses. That means that a well done metal sculpt literally can paint itself. It also comes down to the sculptor.

Some of the very best figures I've ever painted came from Wargames Foundry...but it was only certain sculptors who did beautiful work (yes, in metal). Others are poor.

Dip also tends to work much better on metals because of the increased sharpness of most lines/edges. Another big boon for me personally is the simplicity of painting up a metal figure.

A single piece model may not be as dynamic, but they paint in half the time as a detailed multi-part plastic. Arm or rifle tucked to the chest? Don't have to paint that area.

I've posted this before, but this is my 2nd. Ed. Eldar army painted entirely in 2016. Every single model here is metal with the exception of Wraithguard, the Wave Serpents, the Jetbike and the plastic weapons on most of the walkers. Everything is metal. Purchased on eBay - stripped down, re-painted fresh.



The only things to avoid? Big multi-part metals. These you'll have to pin. If I liked the way new War Walkers looked I'd have skipped my metal ones entirely. But for infantry figures? Metal all day long. Bigger vehicles and god forbid anything flying...skip metal if you can.

All of these infantry figures fit in one Pelican case as well. Simple to move around. I don't know who's playing with armies "so heavy" they have to lug them around and that's actually a hindrance?
   
Made in gb
Unhealthy Competition With Other Legions




Nottingham / Sheffield

In games like 40k, I find plastic, resin and metal to all be the same, for infantry. Plastic is the ideal material for vehicles though.
I own a set of old metal sniper drones, and they are almost guaranteed to break thier flying stands every couple of games, so dont get or use metal flyers!

However, metal reigns supreme in ranked combat systems like WHFB where the regularity of metal miniatures is easier to rank up.
The weight of metal also makes it easier to push units around the table, provided that the table is smooth. I used to play on a glass table and we could push out metals around with the edge of an army book, while plastics just fell over.

I find metal does wear faster than plastic, probably because of bad primer and heavy handling. If you miniatures are varnished, then you should have no problems.

It is certain that metals and plastics take damage in different ways. Metal either bends and chips or the superglue breaks cleanly when dropped.
Plastics snap and can be quite a pain to repair, especially the fine parts that are prone to snapping.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/05/05 14:38:38


Project Log
Neronoxx wrote:
...for the love of god can we drop the flipping jokes?
They might go over peoples heads....
 
   
Made in kr
Inquisitorial Keeper of the Xenobanks






your mind

 Azreal13 wrote:
IME, with careful handling and a good coat of varnish, the biggest enemy of metal minis is other metal minis. In that them bumping into each other is far more likely to cause chips than nearly anything else (in terms of what they're going to be regularly exposed to under normal conditions.)

Therefore a transport/storage solution that keeps them neatly separated and a little care when placing them on the tabletop and handling them are the main areas to consider.


This is my experience. I prefer metal to plastic for most models.
I enjoy converting them though plastic is so much easier.
Typically I am converting metal with plastic bits anyways so only half more difficult than one might imagine.




Automatically Appended Next Post:
 AndrewGPaul wrote:
During normal handling, the only difference will be that the metal miniature feels heavier. Once the primer's on, the rest of the paint doesn't know what the miniature's made of.


This is also my experience.
With good primer over clean metal.

Drop one on a hardwood floor or god forbid concrete and it may disintegrate in 360 directions.
But I still prefer this to plastic for most things.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/05/14 13:17:56


   
Made in us
Member of the Ethereal Council






To prevent chipping, get a can of testors gloss coat and dull coat. Gloss it to the point it made the model shiny, then hit it with a dull coat to matte it down. This allows it to be better protected.

5000pts 6000pts 3000pts
 
   
Made in us
Incorporating Wet-Blending





Houston, TX

For playing purposes, plastic is lighter, less prone to catastrophic damage/ chipping, and generally less prone to be top heavy. Plastic is easier to modify, glue, and splice. Metal tends to have better details, especially with undercuts and is easier to cleanly file. Combinations are often bad as the metal parts are off balance with the non-metal parts and make gluing more difficult.

I prefer a well made, well sculpted plastic to metal for the reasons above, however many times the better sculpt is in metal, so I will choose that for painting purposes. Some materials, like Bones, I was initially positive about, but am now turned off to for detail painting due to poor detail and difficulty in cleaning mold lines.

-James
 
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





Oh, one thing I happen to really like about metals: survival of the fittest.

I like to "rescue" miniatures from eBay. When a 12 year old paints up a metal miniature, he's far less likely to categorically destroy it. Sure there will be flash, and a bent gun here or there...but with some proper love you can save the minis.

A plastic miniature assembled by a 12 year old? God help you. Heaps of extra glue, melted surfaces, broken ends, terrible posing etc. Almost impossible to save when done "wrong". So that's one plus.
   
Made in us
Member of the Ethereal Council






 jmurph wrote:
For playing purposes, plastic is lighter, less prone to catastrophic damage/ chipping, and generally less prone to be top heavy. Plastic is easier to modify, glue, and splice. Metal tends to have better details, especially with undercuts and is easier to cleanly file. Combinations are often bad as the metal parts are off balance with the non-metal parts and make gluing more difficult.

Ever since I have gotten really into painting, Im loving the detail(especially on faces) the metal models have and what kinda models you can make from them

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Made in gb
Rampaging Reaver Titan Princeps





Warwickscire

 Elbows wrote:
...

I've posted this before, but this is my 2nd. Ed. Eldar army painted entirely in 2016. Every single model here is metal with the exception of Wraithguard, the Wave Serpents, the Jetbike and the plastic weapons on most of the walkers. Everything is metal. Purchased on eBay - stripped down, re-painted fresh.


Just spotted this. Beautiful, proper labour of love.
   
Made in us
Incorporating Wet-Blending





Houston, TX

 Elbows wrote:
Oh, one thing I happen to really like about metals: survival of the fittest.

I like to "rescue" miniatures from eBay. When a 12 year old paints up a metal miniature, he's far less likely to categorically destroy it. Sure there will be flash, and a bent gun here or there...but with some proper love you can save the minis.

A plastic miniature assembled by a 12 year old? God help you. Heaps of extra glue, melted surfaces, broken ends, terrible posing etc. Almost impossible to save when done "wrong". So that's one plus.


Great point. I have salvaged old OOP metals with a bath in Simple Green or isopropyl alcohol. Even superglue comes off easily. Plastic, not so easy. It works sometimes and with some glues/paints.

 hotsauceman1 wrote:

Ever since I have gotten really into painting, Im loving the detail(especially on faces) the metal models have and what kinda models you can make from them


I am curious by what you meant by the second half of your statement. I have made GS molds of metal faces and then sculpted hair, headgear, etc. to create new heads to pop onto plastic figures.

-James
 
   
Made in us
Member of the Ethereal Council






This is why you dont post at night people
I mean the details of metal to me tends to be great. I LOVE IT



Automatically Appended Next Post:
 jmurph wrote:
 Elbows wrote:
Oh, one thing I happen to really like about metals: survival of the fittest.

I like to "rescue" miniatures from eBay. When a 12 year old paints up a metal miniature, he's far less likely to categorically destroy it. Sure there will be flash, and a bent gun here or there...but with some proper love you can save the minis.

A plastic miniature assembled by a 12 year old? God help you. Heaps of extra glue, melted surfaces, broken ends, terrible posing etc. Almost impossible to save when done "wrong". So that's one plus.


Great point. I have salvaged old OOP metals with a bath in Simple Green or isopropyl alcohol. Even superglue comes off easily. Plastic, not so easy. It works sometimes and with some glues/paints.
.

Acetone is what I love for metal, superglue comes right off and its practically brand new

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/05/17 01:22:26


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Made in us
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain






A Protoss colony world

I love the feel of metal models. The heft they have when you move them around is very nice. I can't really describe it; they just "feel" better than plastic. As for assembling, plastic is way easier, and resin can go die in a fire.

My armies (re-counted and updated on 11/1/23, including modeled wargear options):
Dark Angels: ~15000 Astra Militarum: ~1200 | Adeptus Custodes: ~1900 | Imperial Knights: ~2000 | Sisters of Battle: ~3500 | Leagues of Votann: ~1200 | Tyranids: ~2600 | Stormcast Eternals: ~5000
Check out my P&M Blogs: ZergSmasher's P&M Blog | Imperial Knights blog | Board Games blog | Total models painted in 2023: 40 | Total models painted in 2024: 7 | Current main painting project: Dark Angels
 Mr_Rose wrote:
Who doesn’t love crazy mutant squawk-puppies? Eh? Nobody, that’s who.
 
   
Made in us
Inspiring SDF-1 Bridge Officer





Mississippi

I will never buy another metal model if I can help it, ever again (the eldar Wraithlord and weapons platform I bought last fall don't count - I bought them for $2.50 USD each, couldn't pass that up).

Assembling, deflashing and painting was always a pain for me. Repainting due to chipping always an issue as well. I'd just rather have plastics all around. In fact, if GW would release plastic Eldar aspects, I'd probably sell my old metal ones in a heartbeat to replace them, even knowing how ungodly the new ones would cost.

It never ends well 
   
Made in us
Keeper of the Flame





Monticello, IN

Availability in plastic dictates whether I will run a unit or not. I've bypassed entire armies because of the lack of plastic, and have been diligently replacing all pewter minis in my armies with plastic.






A friend of mine has a smelter and molds that he uses to make lead pendant sinkers, and we are planning to shoot a "how to convert metal miniatures" video of us melting down all my metal minis and turning them into fishing tackle. I will post that on youtube and bask in the glory of the responses. I'm thinking my limited edition High Elf battle standard bearer will go in first.

www.classichammer.com

For 4-6th WFB, 2-5th 40k, and similar timeframe gaming

Looking for dice from the new AOS boxed set and Dark Imperium on the cheap. Let me know if you can help.
 CthuluIsSpy wrote:
Its AoS, it doesn't have to make sense.
 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





West Michigan, deep in Whitebread, USA

It's your money if you want to waste it, whatever.

I love me some plastic, but have absolutely no problem with metal. Finecast aspect warriors? Oh, hell no. Specifically got all I need from Ebay in metal, with just a couple baths of simple green.



"By this point I'm convinced 100% that every single race in the 40k universe have somehow tapped into the ork ability to just have their tech work because they think it should."  
   
Made in au
Norn Queen






 hotsauceman1 wrote:
To prevent chipping, get a can of testors gloss coat and dull coat. Gloss it to the point it made the model shiny, then hit it with a dull coat to matte it down. This allows it to be better protected.


This goes for any kinds of varnish. Spray on, brush on, gloss/satin/matt.

Gloss then matt is not noticeably more protective than matt then matt. It's simply more protective because you've done two coats. The gloss coat first will actually help the matt coat work better as the matt coat will settle better, making the matt finish more consistent, but it isn't any more beneficial for protection than just using two matt layers.

Varnish strength comes from what type of varnish it is. Spirit based varnishes are stronger than water based. However, multiple thin coats of any varnish will always be preferable.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/05/21 06:36:07


 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

 Just Tony wrote:
Availability in plastic dictates whether I will run a unit or not. I've bypassed entire armies because of the lack of plastic, and have been diligently replacing all pewter minis in my armies with plastic.






A friend of mine has a smelter and molds that he uses to make lead pendant sinkers, and we are planning to shoot a "how to convert metal miniatures" video of us melting down all my metal minis and turning them into fishing tackle. I will post that on youtube and bask in the glory of the responses. I'm thinking my limited edition High Elf battle standard bearer will go in first.


How timely.

I was just thinking that there has got to be some way too turn this collection of pricey pewter into nearly worthless metal balls.

Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
http://chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/


My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
Made in us
Keeper of the Flame





Monticello, IN

 Eilif wrote:
 Just Tony wrote:
Availability in plastic dictates whether I will run a unit or not. I've bypassed entire armies because of the lack of plastic, and have been diligently replacing all pewter minis in my armies with plastic.






A friend of mine has a smelter and molds that he uses to make lead pendant sinkers, and we are planning to shoot a "how to convert metal miniatures" video of us melting down all my metal minis and turning them into fishing tackle. I will post that on youtube and bask in the glory of the responses. I'm thinking my limited edition High Elf battle standard bearer will go in first.


How timely.

I was just thinking that there has got to be some way too turn this collection of pricey pewter into nearly worthless metal balls.


You obviously don't fish, or else you'd know how worthwhile sinkers are.



Yeah, it'd take far too long to move this pewter garbage, and I'd still wind up taking a loss on it, so why not turn it into something I will use, AND save money from having to buy sinkers?

www.classichammer.com

For 4-6th WFB, 2-5th 40k, and similar timeframe gaming

Looking for dice from the new AOS boxed set and Dark Imperium on the cheap. Let me know if you can help.
 CthuluIsSpy wrote:
Its AoS, it doesn't have to make sense.
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran



South Portsmouth, KY USA

So you're just going to destroy them with no profit to yourself. Sounds like a great plan!

There are guys that buy collections and re-sell, get a hold of an eBay seller by the name of Lazarus Games or call up The Game Room in Toledo Ohio. You might not get top dollar, but you'll have far more in your pocket than you will from just scrapping them.

Armies: Space Marines, IG, Tyranids, Eldar, Necrons, Orks, Dark Eldar.
I am the best 40k player in my town, I always win! Of course, I am the only player of 40k in my town.

Check out my friends over at Sea Dog Game Studios, they always have something cooking: http://www.sailpowergame.com. Or if age of sail isn't your thing check out the rapid fire sci-fi action of Techcommander http://www.techcommandergame.com
 
   
Made in us
Keeper of the Flame





Monticello, IN

You know what, you've convinced me to drop my hatred of pewter and stop a cathartic action related to that hatred. Thanks for the link!

www.classichammer.com

For 4-6th WFB, 2-5th 40k, and similar timeframe gaming

Looking for dice from the new AOS boxed set and Dark Imperium on the cheap. Let me know if you can help.
 CthuluIsSpy wrote:
Its AoS, it doesn't have to make sense.
 
   
Made in us
Brigadier General






Chicago

 Just Tony wrote:
You know what, you've convinced me to drop my hatred of pewter and stop a cathartic action related to that hatred. Thanks for the link!


I was joking around before, but seriously, if you want a really fast solution...

Send me all your metal minis regardless of whether they're complete or just bits. Any brand, any game. I'll refund your postage and send you an equal weight of lead sinkers. I'm looking a a small box of them in front of me right now.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/05/22 14:45:14


Chicago Skirmish Wargames club. Join us for some friendly, casual gaming in the Windy City.
http://chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/


My Project Log, mostly revolving around custom "Toybashed" terrain.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/651712.page

Visit the Chicago Valley Railroad!
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com 
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





Considering what metal minis go for on eBay I'd also take them
   
Made in us
Blackclad Wayfarer





Philadelphia

Metal is still the best material for 28mm~ models and characters. 10/10 feel and quality

   
 
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