Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

rgdgaming wrote:

 Azazelx wrote:

 Zywus wrote:

rgdgaming wrote:

So we are using ABS plastic, which will likely be coated with a gray pantone.

Is this the "regular" sprue plastic used for models? (i.e will our normal polystyrene cement glue be functional?)

No. It's the plastic used in Lego and occasionally some KS projects. It doesn't like plastic glue. You need to use super glue (there's ABS cement, but that's toxic hardware store stuff). I think it was Wrath of Kings that used ABS for weapons and restic for the regular models. HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) is what is used in most sprued plastic traditional wargaming kits, such as those from GW, Renedra, Warlord, etc, along with most model kits from Tamiya, Revell, Italieri, etc.

On the money.

I see. That should probably be made more clear in the KS then if you want to avoid people getting dissapointed.
Generally, people don't know the difference between different plastic types just from the abbreviations, and injection molded sprues will have people assume it's 'normal' HIPS.

 MasterSlowPoke wrote:
I'm definitely interested in throwing $50, as I love all things beastman.

I'm a little worried about the ABS though. The ABS pieces on my Wrath of Kings models are significantly lower detail than the PVC the rest of the models are made of. Do you have an example of a 28mm miniature made from ABS from the same manufacturer to put my mind at ease?

The manufacturer specializes in board games, so there aren't too many pictures along the lines you are asking. What we do have is a piece of their work they did for us using the rendered files we gave them.

Attached is an image of the detail, and this is in 40mm.

Love a bit of beasty action so can't begrudge a $50 pledge.

Good luck with the project and I look forward to seeing how it all develops!

rgdgaming wrote:

 MasterSlowPoke wrote:
I'm definitely interested in throwing $50, as I love all things beastman.

I'm a little worried about the ABS though. The ABS pieces on my Wrath of Kings models are significantly lower detail than the PVC the rest of the models are made of. Do you have an example of a 28mm miniature made from ABS from the same manufacturer to put my mind at ease?

The manufacturer specializes in board games, so there aren't too many pictures along the lines you are asking. What we do have is a piece of their work they did for us using the rendered files we gave them.

Attached is an image of the detail, and this is in 40mm.

Oh, the minotaur is also in ABS? For some reason I thought it would be resin.

 MasterSlowPoke wrote:

rgdgaming wrote:

 MasterSlowPoke wrote:
I'm definitely interested in throwing $50, as I love all things beastman.

I'm a little worried about the ABS though. The ABS pieces on my Wrath of Kings models are significantly lower detail than the PVC the rest of the models are made of. Do you have an example of a 28mm miniature made from ABS from the same manufacturer to put my mind at ease?

The manufacturer specializes in board games, so there aren't too many pictures along the lines you are asking. What we do have is a piece of their work they did for us using the rendered files we gave them.

Attached is an image of the detail, and this is in 40mm.

Oh, the minotaur is also in ABS? For some reason I thought it would be resin.

The Minotaur is in resin. I wanted to show people that the factory has done a job for us, and is good at nailing the details. Resin molding and injection molding are two different beasts, but rely on the same rendered files to achieve the level of detail you want as a hobbiest. Closest figures in ABS plastic include the pictures on the bottom.

ABS plastic is rigid and hard, but that's because the plastic is less flexible once it cools down. HIP is not as rigid and conforms similarly to ABS plastic. Hence why you can get them to do the same job. But HIP has some properties that makes it ideal for a hobbiest, for example being easy to paint (also goes well with acrylics). Some people also have valid points on the type of glues, because plastics react differently. Other folks are right that models made with ABS plastic sprues can be tougher to cut with a hobby tool.

rgdgaming wrote:
The Minotaur is in resin. I wanted to show people that the factory has done a job for us, and is good at nailing the details. Resin molding and injection molding are two different beasts, but rely on the same rendered files to achieve the level of detail you want as a hobbiest. Closest figures in ABS plastic include the pictures on the bottom.

That isn't entirely true. That is like saying that 3D renders would be high level detail just because the concept art was done in high detail. Since not all injection molding, or rather the mold making itself is not done the same way there are varied results.

With resin casting you use the same digital sculpt to print a 3d master. That master is then used to create a 2 piece mold, created from the actual 3d master. The quality of the 3d master directly relates to how a resin cast will be. There is really only one method done for resin casting to create a mold.

With injection molding, there are different ways to create the mold. One method is investment casting. You 3d print a master, usually in a wax but there are other methods. They then use liquid metal to create a negative mold. The liquid destroys the initial master (hence why it is called investment casting) and what you are left is the actual negative metal mold. That mold is then CNC'd to be cleaned up a bit but used directly to cast. They tend to get the best quality because it is based on the master.

Another method involves mapping or creating a CAD file, then using a CNC machine to carve out the mold. Although it is based on the initial digital sculpt this isn't a direct translation. It also depends on the machinery used.

Another method is to do a 3-up. Then a machine traces the larger design, while another machine CNC's the mold based on that (I don't remember what this is called). This will get you just as good quality as investment casting, but also depends on how it is done.

A newer method is use the digital file to create a negative mold. You 3d print the negative mold, then investment cast the mold to create the master.

There are a few other methods but overall similar results. Just because they can do nice resin casts, doesn't mean they can do nice plastic casts. These are two different things with different factors that effect them even though the process starts with the same 3d sculpt.

 Dark Severance wrote:

rgdgaming wrote:
The Minotaur is in resin. I wanted to show people that the factory has done a job for us, and is good at nailing the details. Resin molding and injection molding are two different beasts, but rely on the same rendered files to achieve the level of detail you want as a hobbiest. Closest figures in ABS plastic include the pictures on the bottom.

That isn't entirely true. That is like saying that 3D renders would be high level detail just because the concept art was done in high detail. Since not all injection molding, or rather the mold making itself is not done the same way there are varied results.

With resin casting you use the same digital sculpt to print a 3d master. That master is then used to create a 2 piece mold, created from the actual 3d master. The quality of the 3d master directly relates to how a resin cast will be. There is really only one method done for resin casting to create a mold.

With injection molding, there are different ways to create the mold. One method is investment casting. You 3d print a master, usually in a wax but there are other methods. They then use liquid metal to create a negative mold. The liquid destroys the initial master (hence why it is called investment casting) and what you are left is the actual negative metal mold. That mold is then CNC'd to be cleaned up a bit but used directly to cast. They tend to get the best quality because it is based on the master.

Another method involves mapping or creating a CAD file, then using a CNC machine to carve out the mold. Although it is based on the initial digital sculpt this isn't a direct translation. It also depends on the machinery used.

Another method is to do a 3-up. Then a machine traces the larger design, while another machine CNC's the mold based on that (I don't remember what this is called). This will get you just as good quality as investment casting, but also depends on how it is done.

A newer method is use the digital file to create a negative mold. You 3d print the negative mold, then investment cast the mold to create the master.

There are a few other methods but overall similar results. Just because they can do nice resin casts, doesn't mean they can do nice plastic casts. These are two different things with different factors that effect them even though the process starts with the same 3d sculpt.

There are different options to choose. And you already know concept art won't turn out exactly like the render. We have to prototype the .CAD design before we can even begin to green light everything.

In the Minotaur's case we used a 3D printout from Zealot for the factory to cast.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Just confirmed that HIP plastic is on the table. Now to hear back if we can get a prototype of each from them (a prototype in the US was planned anyway).

For everyone, the factory is willing to help us prototype the sprues in advance of the order. We should be revealing combinations of poses shortly for your viewing.

Hello, it's been a bit, but I wanted to post some of the samples and updates the project has undertaken for the relaunch of the kickstarter.

The male and female poses are coming along, and our sculptor has added some modifications to give modelers some added bonuses to the fauns. We've already discussed making the shield as an attachable, vs being forced to a hand part, and adopting a weapon rack so players can put quivers, racks of javelins, or the shield on it.

In the pictures below we have an unfinished concept with the males in a neutral pose, armed with spear and shield, and sword. Also included is the shofar accessory, which is essentially a rams horn for the fantasy wargaming in mind.

The females chest piece will have a cloth extending to a shoulder and one focusing on the chest area itself. We planned on giving them similar weapons as their male counterparts.

The big action archer pose for the female we put in the concept is being delegated to the 3-1 pose, which required us to modify the sculpt a tad around the arms to fix any misalignment.

Extended goal to include a shaman faun, which we will focus on making in pewter (spin casting for faster turnarounds). 3D sculpt will be done prior to reduce the wait time.

Unique heads will be in the works once the poses are complete, and a finalization on the weapons. We've attached an image of the female head, and I am leaning in favor of head number 2 with the nose to make the females beastly, while still retaining that human shape/

Sculpting is still continuing before we proceed to the .CAD drawing.