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Well it's still neat! Ha.

Would a y-wing be workable for anything? I always liked those boxy little guys too

I think y wings are even bigger than xwings... also I've never like them. Might just be holdover from xwing vs tie fighter where they were horrible to fly.

3d printers make kitbashing even easier...

Resized some landing gear for a Caestus Ram and I think they fir nicely.





Now I just need to find my pin vice and bits so I can pin them in place. Tried just superglue and it didn't bond very well.

Hmm... updates... finally.

Got covid. Got better. Burned out a print bed making PETG face masks through April. Almost wrecked my print head shortly afterward. Managed to fix it. Treated myself to a larger bit of scatter terrain form Thingiverse as a larger test.

I really rather like this. I mean it's way too big for a realistic AT missile turret, but its greebly and industrial and fits quite well. Planning on pIring it with the Imperial terrain radar installation as a decent pair of objectives on any board.

Moved house. Finally. And the family is now embedded, and the box ramparts falling around us. And so the printer gets warmed up again for fun and games.

First off was a metric bumload of light bracket things for my Detolf. Really nice to be able to display some of my previous efforts rather than having them. Languish in foam and my memory alone.



So the Duneden 51st Division sees the light of day again, what little of it I managed to paint. Lots of the vehicles are sitting there with airbrushed camo schemes, but need all the details done.


Terranwing will get a shelf too, but I cant find the case just at the moment.

The next up on the print bed is a big chunk of scenery to use as a stand in the central shelf. From the portals of WOR kickstarter. Just about finished the thing. Here is the main platform



It's quite big



And here is the lower stand and the main portal itself underway. Should be done by the morning, or a horrendous spaghetti mess...



Here is what it should look like from the kickstarter page. I think it's a great piece of uber tech and should work nicely as a display stand for necromunda and kill team stuffs.



I also picked up an Anycubic Photon Mono that arrived a few days ago. However with work and still sorting the last bits of the house out, it will probably be December before I can crank it up. I have Raptors. With ray guns. Waiting g, oh yes, waiting. And I just bought a bunch of Contrast paints to use on them because I would like them to be colourful raptors. Also planning on printing a translucent insert for the portal on the mono so the thing can be maximum stargate

That display case is looking FINE

I'm really liking what I'm seeing here Flinty! Have you tried painting any of the terrain pieces yet? How did they turn out? And what other stuff have you got lined up to print?

Thanks. Still getting up to speed painting wise after the house move. I managed to get the airbrush set up last night for a bit on the Cochin a frames. I used the Hycote filler primer, but I couldn't get it to properly fill the ridges, so I'll just see how well I can paint over it.

Currently on the print bed are some paint racks. After that I need to paint the stuff I've got before doing more scenery.

Working towards getting my Anycubic Mono set up so I can play with resiny goodness.

First up on that will be the Ray Gun Raptors, to get some practice on getting decent prints, and then after that I'm sorting a bunch of 10mm scale.tanks to try out Horizon Wars.

I have a range of Antenocitis Workshop files that ill make a red forehand a blue force from

Red force
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2097161002/antenocitis-workshop-stl-files-for-3d-printing?ref=android_project_share

Blue force

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2097161002/uks-governance-of-technology-3d-printable-vehicles?ref=android_project_share

And then the Prusa will need to pump out some appropriate 10mm scale terrain




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Managed to get the airbrush out again today. Turns out I'm not very good with it... However, with a bit of luck I can get a bunch of practice on terrain that's supposed to be grubby and a bit crap looking before I try on something I would like to actually look nice

Yesterday I put some "rust" in the recesses of the a frames. Today i tried spraying around the recesses with... varying success shall we say.



The taped up one will have a simple middle band of green. The other one will.basically be grey. You can just about see the sparkle of the metallic rust in the crevices.



The top of all of the frames will be getting hazard stripes, but the printed texture takes the paint weirdly, and my white is way too thin... and this is after a layer of filler primer and sanding it down a bit.



Learning curves ahoy! Almost certainly this will all end with me sponging rust all over and dry brushing the hell out of it all

Having painted some stuff from that self same printer (Plug) some disruption patterning does wonders - even if you want a smooth surface - rather than going down my "Thick rubbish paint" route - having a lot of changes in shade and colour breaks up the print lines a LOT. Once any form of hazard stripes are on, for example, the much bolder pattern tends to make the lines all but invisible unless you're really looking for them.

Good point. I will not despair quite yet then I did expect more out of the filler primer though. Maybe I'm not using it correctly...

Oh well. No painting progress today because I was doing manly things like building a happy shelf for the Mono to lurk on.

It seems pretty flat and everything, and I managed to build it put of random left overs from other diy projects, so I'm calling it free



So, that gives me a printer, a litre of resin (or 300 velociraptors with a range of entertaining weapons as I like to think of it I a very real sense ), a ready supply of IPA, gloves, a mask, shoogly plastic tub things for cleaning... what's left... ah yes, post cure!



In this innocuous Kallax bay, there lurks a secret facility... or a bunch of UV LED tape wrapped around an automatic twirly thingy.



Ended up with a lot shorter string of leds than I thought, so might need to get another set of them, or replace with a longer one. We shall see how effective it ends up being.



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I also have a couple of test files to have a go with. Next step is getting a long enough extension lead and then plucking up the courage to actually switch the thing on...

I made a stencil



And used the stencil



It kinda worked. I need to practice spraying more vertically to reduce the bleed.

 Flinty wrote:
a litre of resin (or 300 velociraptors with a range of entertaining weapons as I like to think of it I a very real sense )

I printed my first 10 this weekend, and they came out chock-full of cheeky saurian character Good luck with yours, curious to see how you build them - I'm going GSC with mine, so pistols and industrial mining tools for the most part. Obviously excited for the gunslinger and psyker add-ons , though I'm curious how the admiral shapes up, as I don't love the stock commander ...

I agree about the commander. The hat just doesnt do anything for me, although the hologram thing is pretty epic.

I'm planning on printing a selection and seeing what I can do with Kill Team. Should be able to proxy pretty much anything. I have a range of Contrast paints in a vain attempt to actually finish painting a project

 Flinty wrote:
I made a stencil

It kinda worked. I need to practice spraying more vertically to reduce the bleed.

Firstly, the printing station with the Glowing UV Cube Of Doom is awesome

For the stencil - if there's any bleed it's not showing in photos. If vertical spray is a problem, try to turn the model rather than the spray direction.

I also figure that the "indentured workers"* doing the job of spraying hazard stripes in the depths of the underhive won't figure they're getting paid enough** to care about doing a top notch job, and their supervisors certainly aren't going to want to hang around long enough to check beyond a quick walk through to ensure it's done.

Printed stencil certainly looks good.

*Slaves
**Anything

Question for you - how much does the printer shake the table?
Or to phrase it another way - how stable and how level does the table need to be?

Thanks for the interesting thread/

Depends on the printer and the speed of the printer. A reprap style FDM printer (where the Y axis is the movable build plate) moves more then an ultramaker FDM style (where the build plate moves along the z). A resin printer causes almost no movement.

I know people that print on folding tables just fine but if you can gently shake it and you get a lot of movement then you shouldn't print on it. I have my printers on some cheap "cube" shelves from Walmart. The type that you can store the fabric bins in. I'd say if the table has a visible wobble when you put anything on it then you shouldn't put the printer on it but it's not like you need a solid oak kitchen table for these things.

Having a level surface also depends on the printer. It's most important for a resin (since it has liquids) but all should be fairly level but being 100% level doesn't really matter for the FDM printers. In all cases you can use things to level the printer vs leveling the table. My first printer years ago I used cardboard to lift up edges.

I have my prusa on an IKEA Lack and on quite spongy carpet. The table is solid, but it bounces a bit on the carpet while running without apparently causing any problems. So it doesnt need to be absolutely rigid.

I tried to make the shelf for the Mono as level as possible as Monkeysloth says its filled with liquid and I want that level as well, however with both it's about the relative position of the build plate and the creation mechanism, whether that's the x/z axis of the prusa or the build plate on the mono.


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@Graphite - thanks

The black stripes on the one on the left are a bit thicker and more irregular than the ones o the right. Nothing major and I'm not going to redo them. Just notes for future reference.

Right... no turning back. The gloop is in the square bowl thing and the house hat thingy is bumping up and down... with a bit of luck I may get a test piece at the end of it all.





The smell was fine doing the setup, and easy enough to get the vat filled without pouring the stuff everywhere... I guess the proof will be in the clean up. Conveniently, the rooms extractor fan is directly above the printer. Not the reason it was put there, but I'll take it

Paying very close attention here!

Make sure you have table space for cleanup! I keep forgetting to make a spot for the printer lid. Then the ultra dirty spot where you will attempt to pry the prints off the build plate. Oh, when you remove the plate, make sure to hold a towel under it so it doesn't drip everywhere. Then you'll have to decide whether to hold it by the knob while prying the models off, which will probably ruin your leveling, or hold it by the plate, which gets resin on your glove. Good luck!

All good advice! Thanks for sharing. Definately expecting it to be messy. I have a bench and a sink just our of shot so should have enough space, just need to keep the liquids out of the water system.

More protips! A plastic tub with lid for all your dirty towels and filters, to wait for sunshine. And extra long tweezers/kitchen tongs to handle the towels when you take them out to cure.

Looking forward to seeing the results of this. Fingers crossed.

Thanks lord_blackfang. I used a plastic bag this morning, but I was thinking some kind of plastic tub would be better.

So I left it overnight and did cleanup this morning. Only now getting the time.to post the results.



It worked! First time and totally smoothly. Which is good because I was asleep and wouldn't have noticed if it had failed utterly...

I have 2 dunking tubs, one for initial.cleaning and a final rinse tub. Worked nicely and I managed to cure it off in my little uv den no problem.



No major mess anywhere. Used quite a few towels, but nothing catastrophic. The Mono build plate has quite a nice mount point that's big enough to grip away from the resin coating, but also not interfering with the levelling screws. That let me clean most of the resin off the plate before scraping the model off.

Need to print a draining stand on the Prusa for vat clean down, but that is also not drastic. I wasnt sure if I would be able to do more until the weekend, so I put the resin back in the bottle. I have seen advice that you can leave it for a couple.of days, but thought it better to get into tidy habits from the start.

So, a successful start. Next to try a raptor with generated supports... let the fails begin

Looks SMOOTH

Good grief... the flipping tank worked first time... pics in the morning as it needs to cure a bit longer...

It was definately over supported, but the only detail I've lost idls a bit of the turret ring and the back and 9f the tracks... I could care less

So auto supports, default exposure settings and a 28mm model being printed at 35% just worked. I think i like this printer

Now for a cheeky raptor overnight

Cheeky raptor indeed.



Again, worked really well using default exposures and auto supports. I damaged the claws a little bit taking the supports off, and a bit more damage to the underside, but I dont think it'll be that noticeable.

And here is the tanky





Putting some primer on just now as the transparent resin makes it hard to see the detail.

The details become a bit subtle at this scale, but a it of drybrushing will help show some up.again. I need to print off a bunch of tiny secondary weapons to put on the top of the turret. That's the medium tank. Now on to the light, heavy, AA, rocket.artillery and so forth

Big congrats - you are well on your way to filling the resin void you have been feeling for so long and welcome to the club!!

Thanks MDSW

Entering a new world of never ending plastic nonsense requiring paint

And so with some primer on (please ignore the fingerprints)





The detail looks fine for my purposes

The underside is a terrible mess, but I don't think I care enough to go through more trial and error to get it less messy. Anyway i can just paint it brown and call it pre-weathering



And here is the cheeky raptor



Again the underside is a bit messy, but when based will not be noticable.

I think tonight will be an orgy of slicing and supporting other tanks.

Yeah, that underside is one of the usual downsides (heh) of resin printing... but the rest loos so amazing that I don't usually care that much.

Even so, practice makes it go away somewhat.