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Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

I've not just stopped using Chitu but i've fully uninstalled it now.


I started out liking it, but the more I used it the more issues I found

1) Crashing - it does crash a fair bit. Sometimes even totally at random when you're not even using it and its just windowed back it just crashes.

2) I found it can also crash windows explorer even when Chitu isn't running. Somehow part of Chitu has to run in the background when you view chitu files and that can cause explorer to crash. I was getting semi regular crashes and thought it was the harddrive on its last legs - until I saw chitu in the error logs.

3) Chitu's camera is rough. It has the focus set on the middle of the build plate, which means all your rotational views are stuck with that wide swing if you're working far from the middle on a model. The zoom is also very fast- moves far too far on one wheel click.

Lychee has a great camera, press f and it centres on where the mouse is.



   
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On the file topic, I can give some advice if you can narrow the subject a little bit. What are you wanting? Space Marines, D&D figures, fantasy armies, giant robots, these are all possibilities.
   
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Yu Jing Martial Arts Ninja




North Wales

I've been cleaning Elegoo Water Washable resin in my Anycubic cleaner and it's fine, too.

10 minute cycle and things are as clean as a whistle.
   
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3dprinting pro's videos are...fine, but I found I massively disagree with him on one particular point - he advocates for not rotating models 45 degrees and trying to support them standing straight up.

Realizing that was causing a ton of warpage and meltiness on the bottom of my models and switching to defaulting to orienting both my Y and Z axis 45 by default has resulted in massive, massive improvements in the level of detail I can get from miniature models.

Multiple times in the process of learning how to support i have said to myself "OK, I think I understand this now, I think I've run up against the technical limits of my machine, this is just as good and as easy as the process gets" and each time I have found myself to be wrong.

You don't have to make supports so thick that you have to clip them off like sprues with clippers and they leave marks on your models.

you don't have to deal with the undersides of your model's feet and flat areas underneath their clothing and downward-facing details being a melty, misshapen mess that you have to correct with sandpaper and snips.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh, also, make sure you get the default windows 3d model viewer.

Technical bugs in the STL files, especially ones you can find for free off thingiverse, can cause models to come out shot through with big pillars of resin. The default windows 3d model viewer has an extremely good, quick, automatic repair feature it runs as soon as it opens the model, 95% of the time that fixes any kind of holes and defects in an stl.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/05/05 17:35:42


"I can't believe all these tryhard WAACs out there just care about winning all the time when it's supposed to be a game for fun!!!!!!! Also here's my 27 page essay on why marines are OP and Orkz should get a bunch of OP rules so I can win more games

-the_scotsman"

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TheWaspinator wrote:On the file topic, I can give some advice if you can narrow the subject a little bit. What are you wanting? Space Marines, D&D figures, fantasy armies, giant robots, these are all possibilities.


To start with, I am mainly looking to complete my 40K Epic and Battlefleet Gothic collections. Some of the OOP models are extremely hard to source these days. An example being the Epic Slaanesh knights. I have some of the metal Questor and Hell-Scourge models but problems arise when they are fielded in units of 3 models and I only have 2 for example.

Chillreaper wrote:I've been cleaning Elegoo Water Washable resin in my Anycubic cleaner and it's fine, too.

10 minute cycle and things are as clean as a whistle.


That's good to know that I can use it for its intended purpose.



Automatically Appended Next Post:
Further question - is it normal for the print to stick ever so slightly to the FEP film on every layer pass? There is a slight ping like someone tapping a drum head gently on my machine each time it prints a layer.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/05/05 19:10:17


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Yep, that is normal. if it stops making that noise your print has failed.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/05/05 19:34:43


"I can't believe all these tryhard WAACs out there just care about winning all the time when it's supposed to be a game for fun!!!!!!! Also here's my 27 page essay on why marines are OP and Orkz should get a bunch of OP rules so I can win more games

-the_scotsman"

-ERJAK 
   
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 the_scotsman wrote:
Yep, that is normal. if it stops making that noise your print has failed.


Phew. Good to know.

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Decrepit Dakkanaut




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I find the sound gets less when everything is nice and toasty warm (resin likes the 25-30C range of temps)


After that I can't point you toward copy-cat sculpts of GW model designs as its really not something I look for (and GW tends to shut it down when they find it so its somewhat "underground").

That said I'd strongly suggest checking out:

Soulforge Studios https://www.patreon.com/soulforgestudio
https://www.myminifactory.com/users/SoulForgeStudio

One of the few doing unique new BFG ships, though personally I think there's a certain something "missing" from the designs here and there, but I've not printed them and sometimes theres a difference between a real print and a huge enlargement of an stl on the screen


Aphyrion https://www.patreon.com/aphyrion/posts
https://www.cgtrader.com/aphyrion

The Makers Cult
https://www.cgtrader.com/themakerscult
https://www.patreon.com/themakerscult

Both do 40K stuff such as tanks, titans and infantry. You can resize for epic scale, but you'd have to resupport them.

Granted all 3 are more unique designs and might not be quite what you're after, but at the same time they might give you some new toys and things to play with on the battlefield (and Aphyrions tanks/titans are very awesome)

   
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My second print run - a proxy Necron Cairn battleship for BFG. Some very quick and dirty pics after curing:





Had a minor hiccup at the start when I realised I had set the exposure time to high and the print was stuck to the FEP rather than the build plate but after stopping the print, cleaning up, adjusting and starting again, it all seemed to go very smoothly. Pretty happy with how it turned out!

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 filbert wrote:
My second print run - a proxy Necron Cairn battleship for BFG. Some very quick and dirty pics after curing:





Had a minor hiccup at the start when I realised I had set the exposure time to high and the print was stuck to the FEP rather than the build plate but after stopping the print, cleaning up, adjusting and starting again, it all seemed to go very smoothly. Pretty happy with how it turned out!


How does it feel realising you have your very own model factory in your back room?


 
   
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 Ketara wrote:


How does it feel realising you have your very own model factory in your back room?


Ask me again when something goes horribly wrong!

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It's generally best practice to wash, remove supports then cure FYI.

I appreciate it buggers about with the work flow of the Mercury a bit, but general consensus is supports come off cleaner and easier when the resin is still uncured.

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I've found that, conventional wisdom aside, sometimes it's necessary to post cure before removing supports.

I might be being ambitious for my first models, but they're really rather thin and delicate; if I try to remove the supports before post cure, they just collapse into a bit of a floppy mess. Leaving the supports on holds the shape better, although there is the increased risk of things going a bit wrong doing it that way round as things are more brittle.
   
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Thanks all so very much for your help in this thread. Thanks to the flexible magnetic print plate and the suggestion to use Lychee, I have been churning out prints. The Mars Pro 2 has been superb; has not missed a beat. Just printed this out, very pleased with how it turned out - a Krieg Marshall posed in the style of the Napoleon Crossing the Alps painting.


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Looks like a nice crisp print, you're getting excellent results very quickly!

Have you had any issues with the magnetic plate? I keep meaning to look into getting one, then never actually doing that.

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 Paradigm wrote:
Looks like a nice crisp print, you're getting excellent results very quickly!

Have you had any issues with the magnetic plate? I keep meaning to look into getting one, then never actually doing that.


Nope. It was great. Stuck it on, left it overnight for the glue to cure and then re-levelled the plate the next day. Been superb so far; a slight flex and the print pops right off.

I did have a moment of panic when I read some Amazon reviews where people complained about needing to print spacers first to offset the increase in plate thickness but my Mars Pro 2 didn't need them.

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ok , that is, awesome? tell me, how is the smell?

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Not Online!!! wrote:
ok , that is, awesome? tell me, how is the smell?


Me or the printer?

Truthfully, don't notice any smell at all. Not sure if that is a factor of the machine which has a sort of rubber seal around the case or the resin I am using which is the Elegoo Water Washable stuff or a combination of the two but honestly, unless I were to take the lid off and really get a good huff of it (which is unadvisable for many reasons) then I can't notice anything at all. The machine is sat right beside me now printing a Planet Killer ship as we speak and I can't smell a thing.

Obviously, when the print is finished and you take it out to wash/cure etc there is a slight smell but it soon dissipates.

Put it this way, my wife complains deeply about a great many things that I do but so far, the smell of resin has gone uncommented.

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Yeah, I've found the smell from my cleaning station, whether using IPA or especially denatured alcohol, is far worse than any resin I've used yet. I don't notice the Phrozen 4k Aqua Grey's smell at all, which is the resin I use most right now.
   
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 filbert wrote:
Not Online!!! wrote:
ok , that is, awesome? tell me, how is the smell?


Me or the printer?

Truthfully, don't notice any smell at all. Not sure if that is a factor of the machine which has a sort of rubber seal around the case or the resin I am using which is the Elegoo Water Washable stuff or a combination of the two but honestly, unless I were to take the lid off and really get a good huff of it (which is unadvisable for many reasons) then I can't notice anything at all. The machine is sat right beside me now printing a Planet Killer ship as we speak and I can't smell a thing.

Obviously, when the print is finished and you take it out to wash/cure etc there is a slight smell but it soon dissipates.

Put it this way, my wife complains deeply about a great many things that I do but so far, the smell of resin has gone uncommented.


Very good, because i am toying around considering a 3d printer since my faction got yeeted and the alternatives are not too my liking.
Well, i guess that is a good thing to know.

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In the 41st millennium there is only overpriced hamberders.

 
   
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So basically Things i'd need:

Printer, i like the exemple one you got filbert, seems good enough for a plebian.
Washstation from anycubic i guess, as that would significantly lower exposure and speed up the process.
Resin, i think going with water curable.
A filter for the used resin to bring back into the bottle.

And programms, 3d windows thingy seems like something i'd want since i'd probably toy arround first with files before i start doing my own stuff.

Have i missed something?

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 Daedalus81 wrote:

In the 41st millennium there is only overpriced hamberders.

 
   
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Software wise, 3D builder on Windows lets you fiddle with models and merge bits. Mesh mixer is another free program that lets you merge and modify STLs.

I would Recommend again the flexible build
Plate add one, and a good sharp scraper is also Necessary.

I find sprue clippers are super useful for getting to fiddly supports for removal. They will get resin on them, so best to get a specific set rather than using your normal modelling set.

Also you should get shares in paper towel manufacturer, cos you may as well try to get some kind of benefit back for all the rolls you will need to buy


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Safety wise, boxes of nitrile gloves are required as they are not really reusable after getting resin in them. I have also found safety goggles that have a half decent seal against your skin help stop irritation from the resin fumes.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/05/09 11:42:31


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

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 Flinty wrote:
Software wise, 3D builder on Windows lets you fiddle with models and merge bits. Mesh mixer is another free program that lets you merge and modify STLs.

I would Recommend again the flexible build
Plate add one, and a good sharp scraper is also Necessary.

I find sprue clippers are super useful for getting to fiddly supports for removal. They will get resin on them, so best to get a specific set rather than using your normal modelling set.

Also you should get shares in paper towel manufacturer, cos you may as well try to get some kind of benefit back for all the rolls you will need to buy


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Safety wise, boxes of nitrile gloves are required as they are not really reusable after getting resin in them. I have also found safety goggles that have a half decent seal against your skin help stop irritation from the resin fumes.


kitchenpaper towels do the job right?

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 Daedalus81 wrote:

In the 41st millennium there is only overpriced hamberders.

 
   
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Not Online!!! wrote:
 Flinty wrote:
Software wise, 3D builder on Windows lets you fiddle with models and merge bits. Mesh mixer is another free program that lets you merge and modify STLs.

I would Recommend again the flexible build
Plate add one, and a good sharp scraper is also Necessary.

I find sprue clippers are super useful for getting to fiddly supports for removal. They will get resin on them, so best to get a specific set rather than using your normal modelling set.

Also you should get shares in paper towel manufacturer, cos you may as well try to get some kind of benefit back for all the rolls you will need to buy


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Safety wise, boxes of nitrile gloves are required as they are not really reusable after getting resin in them. I have also found safety goggles that have a half decent seal against your skin help stop irritation from the resin fumes.


kitchenpaper towels do the job right?


Yes, kitchen paper is good for mopping up resin and cleaning the build plate. I have been recommended by others to use a microfiber cloth and PTFE spray to clean the FEP film in the vat - don't use kitchen paper on that as it can scratch it.

If you buy the same Elegoo printer I have, it comes with a box of tools including metal and plastic scrapers, clippers, some disposable filters and gloves. Enough to get you started.


This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/05/09 11:56:25


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Paper towels will do nicely. Would recommend looking at Chitubox as a program for printing. Its easy to use and its ability to make supports that actually work is great, have heard some people have issues with it crashing though.

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Not Online!!! wrote:
So basically Things i'd need:

Printer, i like the exemple one you got filbert, seems good enough for a plebian.
Washstation from anycubic i guess, as that would significantly lower exposure and speed up the process.
Resin, i think going with water curable.
A filter for the used resin to bring back into the bottle.

And programms, 3d windows thingy seems like something i'd want since i'd probably toy arround first with files before i start doing my own stuff.

Have i missed something?


For 3D resin printing I'd say you need the following:

1) Printer (of course)

2) Resin. There's a good few on the market to choose from with different properties and prices. One thing to consider is that water washable doesn't work well with hollowed models. It has a greater chance of warping/tearing when working with a hollowed model compared to regular resin. In addition whilst you can wash it in water, you still need to then store that water after washing as it will still have uncured resin in it. So you'll likely do the same as with IPA in that you'll be washing for a while in the same water till it gets too full of gunk to clean; then store it in a bottle exposed to sunlight for a long period of time (days/weeks/however long) and then filter out the solidified resin into a filter (coffee filters work well) so that you can then safely dump the water and the filter can be put into the rubbish like the rest of cured resin.
Which is basically the same as you'd do for IPA - the only difference being water is cheaper to buy than IPA.

Note if you put your used water/IPA in a curing station and expose it to cure the resin, its been found that it will cure, but the resin will be in tiny tiny particles that are hard to filter out. Leaving it in the sun is slower, but it tends to result in less fine particles and the resin more clumps up.

3) Lubricant Grease - white lithium is oft recommended as an affordable option. This is to grease the Z axis screwthread as that is what does the most mechancial work in the whole setup so it wants to be well greased.

4) Microfibre cloths - disposable microfibre floor clothes are an affordable option. These are used to clean the FEP, VAT and, if you get any spillage or such, the LCD screen. They are fine and won't scratch or mark those surfaces.

5) Towels - I've found those cheap blue paper towels work well and are very affordable. Whilst some say that you end up using a lot of them, I find I don't end up using vast amounts. It's one of those things that I think at the start you will use lots ,but as you refine your method and get experienced you'll cut down on the volume pretty fast.

6) Silicon spatula. This is invaluable for helping to drain the VAT when you need too. Because its soft it won't damage the FEP and it can help get the resin out and push into the corners well. Great little tool and takes a lot of time out of draining the VAT into a filter for putting back into the bottle and such.

7) Resin filters - as noted in point 6 you'll want these when putting resin back into the bottle if needed. This helps avoid small particles of cured resin ending up in the bottle. Note most resin filters are just paper so you'll want a largeish plastic funnel to help hold things secure

8) Metal scraper to help you get parts off the build plate. Make sure it has an angled edge - eg the one that comes in the Sonic Mini 4K (at least my one) has a flat front to it which makes it near useless because it just bashes up to the resin instead of slipping under

9) Face mask rated for organic vapour and particulate hazards. Because resin is nasty stuff and even if you can't smell the vapours the particles are still in the air.

10) Nitrile Gloves. Regular latex doesn't last long enough before it penetrates the material; so most use Nitrile. You can get disposable ones fairly easily and if you want cheaper get "expired" nitrile sterile gloves. They are still perfectly fine as a material, its just that they will be outside of their sterility rating time period and are thus no use for medical or scientific purposes, but perfectly fine for resin 3D printing. Note as much as people talk about going through lots of paper towels, I personally found I went through gloves WAY faster when getting started. Esp with increased failures as you get started burning through gloves fairly fast. Again as you get dialed in and past the learning curve your use will ease off.

11) Hobby Clippers, Scalpel and Plant Leaf Trimming Scissors. These are all to help take off supports when needed as even when everything is hot, the thicker anchoring supports can be quite well held to the model and sometimes you've got to snip things away to get a model off safe without damaging it. Clippers are good, but the leaf trimmers are typically much finer tips and as the resin is pretty soft they work well for getting into tighter spots.




Extras:
1) Resin likes being warm. 20C is the minimum to get things to work and ideally closer to 30C is best. It also does not like fast swings in heat so you either heat the whole room so that whatever your heat source, the up and down of the temperature will be a steady rate; or if you're heating a smaller insulated enclosure around the printer (as opposed to the whole room) then you'll want a proportional heater and thermostat. They allow you to heat up to a fixed value and then the proportional thermostat trickles power to the heater to maintain it - again its all about avoiding big swings in temp which regular desktop fan heaters often give. Note finding a good proportional heater setup is tricky - so far I've found the IncuKit range and their mini comes well recommended by other resin printers, though they also do a larger version. They are based in the USA so shipping overseas can be expensive/time consuming.

Note its my experience that adhesion to the FEP and to supports reduces dramatically when heated to close to 30C. Adhesion of the supports is more than enough to hold whilst printing, but it makes them effortless to remove once printed. The same supports, if allowed to cool, can require clippers and even dunking in hot water for a few moments to soften to make them peel off.

2) Active Charcoal filters - Elegoo makes a pair you get in a box which do well. This helps cut down on the smell and vapours from the printer. Be it if its in a room or in an enclosure.

3) Insulated enclosure. Creatorly makes a few for their filament printers and they work well for fitting resin printers as well. However I've seen all sorts of home made designs as well. The main idea is to insulate the printer so that any small heater system you use works without bleeding off all the heat and costing you more to run.

4) Spare USB - purely a luxury, but can make it quicker at swapping over as you just plug the new one in with the next file to print and can get the printer going again in moments whilst you then move on to cleaning and curing. Can be a help if your printer is away from the PC and saves going back and forth and such.

5) PTFE lubricant - used to apply to the FEP and then rubbed in, then wipe off excess. Idea is that it reduces adhesion to the FEP thus reducing stress on it whilst in use and increasing the chances of successful prints. Note I've heard from some that they don't like using it as they don't know if it has any effect on the resin properties.
Iv'e also noted that reducing adhesion to the FEP happens if you heat things up to near 30C.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 ingtaer wrote:
Paper towels will do nicely. Would recommend looking at Chitubox as a program for printing. Its easy to use and its ability to make supports that actually work is great, have heard some people have issues with it crashing though.


As I noted above, Chitu wouldn't just crash itself on me, it would crash windows explorer when chitu wasn't even running.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/05/09 12:13:00


   
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Anyone skilled with resizing/rescaling stuff? I am desperately trying to print these things:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3805629

As they are perfect for my pre-heresy 30K Death Guard but the original file is not sized correctly. I tried to resize it myself but it didn't work very well. Anyone fancy a quick bash at it for me? Would be most grateful!

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What software are you using? In Lychee I'd just select the scale option; rescale one of the axis and hit enter and see how it looked. There's a measuring tool (lefthand bar) and I'd use that to get a good measurement as I resized to get it as close as I could to accurate before printing and seeing how it went.

   
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 Overread wrote:
What software are you using? In Lychee I'd just select the scale option; rescale one of the axis and hit enter and see how it looked. There's a measuring tool (lefthand bar) and I'd use that to get a good measurement as I resized to get it as close as I could to accurate before printing and seeing how it went.


Yeah I tried that - I measured a real shoulderpad to be 11mm in the x axis and rescaled the STL - the print failed but even so, it looked way too big to me.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 filbert wrote:
 Overread wrote:
What software are you using? In Lychee I'd just select the scale option; rescale one of the axis and hit enter and see how it looked. There's a measuring tool (lefthand bar) and I'd use that to get a good measurement as I resized to get it as close as I could to accurate before printing and seeing how it went.


Yeah I tried that - I measured a real shoulderpad to be 11mm in the x axis and rescaled the STL - the print failed but even so, it looked way too big to me.


D'oh! I was assuming the X axis referred to the bottom of the shoulderpad but it turns out it was Y. Looks correct size now so will test printing again.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/05/11 17:51:32


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