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No additional highlight, just lighting - which is still poor - I'm going to have to seriously do something about that next year. Although your comments have made me realise I've gone with a light "human" skin tone - which I guess is fitting for the Wonder Woman homage - rather than a pale aelf one. I'll have to find another mini to practise on .
Lighting is something I also struggle with, and my daylight hours are usually spent away from the hobby room due to work, kids, the dog,... Once I've got the hobby room properly in order, I've promised I'd get myself a good lightbox.
And: yes, grots! Alwyals good to see those . Glad to see the Dark Angels growing .
Stompa is definitely not happening this month (athough I do have one, unopened, from late 2013... ). It will definitely (eventually) have DA style wings on its head .
Do it! Gork and Mork demand it! I got my stompa in 2011, and it's still not fully painted btw
Once these guys are prepped for undercoating, I'm going to put together one of my Ork buggies. My wife insists I start with the Boomdakka Snazzwagon - although I doubt she will get her wish that I leave off the Grot on the front as well...
I love the Mad max feel on that little guy
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/12/04 10:20:11
Camkhieri: "And another very cool thing, my phones predictive text actually gave me chicken as an option after typing robot, how cool is that."'
Meercat: "All eyes turned to the horizon and beheld, in lonely and menacing grandeur, the silhouette of a single Grot robot chicken; a portent of evil days to come."
From 'The Plucking of Gindoo Phlem'
I was so tempted to get some of those ork vehicles and de-orkify them for Necromunda. One day... the Snazzwagon screams Goliath and the Squigbuggy is more Orlock.
You could always appease the Lou by replacing the grot with something that looks like the Rolls Royce angel. I have visions of a grot with DA style wings strapped to his back
Greenskins seem to be popular this month, and that’s good few of them ready for the painting desk. I think EndTx has hit on a great idea for da dark angelz snazzwagon!
Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and Void Panther Marines, with side projects along the way
CommissarKhaine wrote:Lighting is something I also struggle with, and my daylight hours are usually spent away from the hobby room due to work, kids, the dog,... Once I've got the hobby room properly in order, I've promised I'd get myself a good lightbox.
Same and same. I need a good lightbox *and* good lighting.
CommissarKhaine wrote:And: yes, grots! Alwyals good to see those . Glad to see the Dark Angels growing .
Why am I not surprised?
CommissarKhaine wrote:Do it! Gork and Mork demand it! I got my stompa in 2011, and it's still not fully painted btw
All in good time. Having learnt that I can no longer sustain painting in batches, I'm starting to also realise I can't sustain building in batches either. I have grand plans for that Stompa - but I need to get back into my full swing first...
endtransmission wrote:I was so tempted to get some of those ork vehicles and de-orkify them for Necromunda. One day... the Snazzwagon screams Goliath and the Squigbuggy is more Orlock.
Hehe. I'm used to the other way around obviously - but I'm also sorta interested in Buggy/Trukk mixes...
endtransmission wrote:You could always appease the Lou by replacing the grot with something that looks like the Rolls Royce angel. I have visions of a grot with DA style wings strapped to his back
gobert wrote:Greenskins seem to be popular this month, and that’s good few of them ready for the painting desk. I think EndTx has hit on a great idea for da dark angelz snazzwagon!
Agreed - that could definitely work....
Viterbi wrote:Slaughter Woman looks great, amazing effort you put into the skin. Already excited for all the green coming to this space.
Thanks, althought it didn't complete well in the monthly comp. I suspect 2021 might be very green from this corner of Dakka...
Anyway - some token progress on the Grot. More detail in spoilers for anyone interested.
@Gitsplitta: Thanks. The new greens appear to go on quite nicely, so I'm looking forward to upgrading to a boy.
@gobert: Yeah, the dedication isn't to layering grot skin, but to practising my layering and gaining experience with the new paints. Christmas was quiet - which is just the way I like it.
More on the Grot. All of this was completed two weeks ago, but I'm only catching up on the blog now (in case anyone mistakenly thinks I have finally learnt to speed paint ). Steps in spoilers.
Spoiler:
Kislev Flesh layer (on the nose and ears).
Carroburg Crimson wash (nose and knuckles).
Rakarth Flesh base (bandages).
Caliban Green base (loincloth, buckle, bracelet?).
Mephiston Red base.
Rhinox Hide base (pouch and belt).
Leadbelcher base.
Morghast Bone base (teeth and claws). I think I'll build up from Zandri Dust in future.
Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil washes.
Balthasar Gold base (because I forgot it before the previous step).
Apply Agrax Earthshade wash to Balthasar Gold.
Warpstone glow, Doombull Brown and Evil Sunz Scarlet layers. Daemonette Hide base (gums) with Agrax Earthshade wash.
Next - Boyz re-basing (No, I haven't finished the Grot yet).
Thank you Viterbi, endtransmission and JoshInJapan. I wasn't actually going for "Oldhammer" specifically - I just think it brings a bit of additional detail and character to the face.
Today I can add the last of the images I bulk uploaded - (re)basing Orks on 32mm bases.
My "hole location template base" (formerly "I got it wrong too many times" base).
"Pins" inserted and held in place with plastic glued "nut" - pre clipping to the correct length.
An assortment of Orks on their new 32mm (unbased) bases.
Start of base detailing - large rocks, skulls and pipes. Interestingly, I super glued the metal skulls to the base with what I later discovered was actually plastic glue . Hopefully they will hold!
"Your mumblings are awakening the sleeping Dragon, be wary when meddling the affairs of Dragons, for thou art tasty and go good with either ketchup or chocolate. "
Dragons fear nothing, if it acts up, we breath magic fire that turns them into marshmallow peeps. We leaguers only cry rivets!
All in good time. Having learnt that I can no longer sustain painting in batches, I'm starting to also realise I can't sustain building in batches either. I have grand plans for that Stompa - but I need to get back into my full swing first...
Smart move. I've been struggling a bit getting back in the hobby, and one of the the reasons is thinking nothing has changed and that skills haven't gone a tad rusty by lack of use.
That little grot is looking brilliant! Very green, but that's a stylistic choice - I recall you saying the same about my orange, so it makes perfect sence . Not 100% sure about the red on thye gun, but, again, our tastes differ.
Have fun rebasing them all (something I should do as well, though I have thankfully few models on 32 mm bases), and looking forward to those boyz gaining some colour!
Because I'm curious: what's up with the black marker on some weapons? Are they marked for conversion/replacement?
Camkhieri: "And another very cool thing, my phones predictive text actually gave me chicken as an option after typing robot, how cool is that."'
Meercat: "All eyes turned to the horizon and beheld, in lonely and menacing grandeur, the silhouette of a single Grot robot chicken; a portent of evil days to come."
From 'The Plucking of Gindoo Phlem'
Good to see some more Ladz. The basing looks great. Since coming back to the hobby and doing something other than sand painted goblin green I’ve been amazed at how much a good base works for minis. These ones look cool
Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and Void Panther Marines, with side projects along the way
@shasolenzabi: Well equipped, yes. Legal? I don't think so any more. Kommandos don't appear to be able to take Burnas anymore, and Meks and Spanners can't take Kombi-Skorchas anymore . I can always use the Burnas as actual Burnas, but those Meks will always have extremely impressive Kustom Mega-Blastas/Sluggas...
@CommissarKhaine: Rusty skills, paint system change, and struggling to find the time to unrust those skills . I was following the Rippa's Snarlfangs colour scheme for the green - but I agree with you - it's a bit light, more suitable for Snotlings I think. I'll be trying out different recipes on the other Grots to see if I can find something closer to my tastes. I'm not locked in yet, and some variation seems natural anyway - so don't hold back (ie it's not a stylistic choice - yet ). What do you dislike about the red? Again, I'm struggling to nail my recipe with the new colours - and all of the Citadel Colour recipes I try end up too orange for my liking - so it can't be that
Thankfully I too have few completed models on 25mm bases that are now 32mm. Let's call that forward planning and leave it at that . I don't plan to rebase anything completed, and I don't think anything signifcantly "in progress" requires a base change - so it should be just unfinished models going forward. The Kommandos and one of the Meks is probably the first and last of the most challenging I'll face.
I had wondered if anyone would question the black marker . All seven boyz have it. I actually put a lot more Sluggas (and Shootas) together when I did these (years ago) - enough to fill out my existing units to 20 or 30 models. You may notice that they are all based on Assault on Black Reach bodies, which leads to a bit of uniformity, which no Ork likes. So the markings simply designate which unit they were meant to join, in order to spread the similiarities evenly. Therefore, all seven boyz here were meant to join the same unit. Of course, what that means is I've messed up - because if I want to paint them in different Dark Angelz schemes, that will necessarily put them in different units .
@gobert: Thanks! 32mm bases are a blessing and a curse. They frame the model better IMHO, and provide more room for interesting basing. This however leads to taking more time and materials...
Talking about basing...
I added the sand.
And some watch parts. I've been hoarding these for ages. Now I have bases they fit on! Just trying to not go overboard on rank and file...
The completed bases in all of their glory, sans Orks. I've left where the feet attach free for later gluing. The other circular gaps are for grass tufts. I'll fill any gaps with Armageddon Dust during painting.
And the Orks, sans bases, so I know which one goes where .
With that done, I was able to finally clean up my work area:
Which allowed me to get started on the Boomdakka Snazzwagon:
Normally I wouldn't take a photo of a simple, unmodified assembly (unless I wanted to prove I'd actually done it I guess) - but the image highlights two things you may be interested in or have an opinion about.
First, this is step 1a - which is listed as "Paint before assembly" - which makes sense until you realise the glyph is part of step 2c, not 1a. I can't fathom why you would add the glyph after painting, other than as a test that you followed the very first instruction, "Before assembling your miniatures please read through the instructions in this booklet carefully." I'm not convinced I can't wait until it is attached to the chassis, but I'll dry fit and see what I think later.
Second, the glyph in the above image is attached in the orientation shown in the assembly instructions. The two painted examples have it the other way (chin to front instead of back). Hopefully I won't think this looks wrong later...
The clean area also allowed me to progress with my Grot... but I'll save that for my next post.
@CommissarKhaine: Rusty skills, paint system change, and struggling to find the time to unrust those skills . I was following the Rippa's Snarlfangs colour scheme for the green - but I agree with you - it's a bit light, more suitable for Snotlings I think. I'll be trying out different recipes on the other Grots to see if I can find something closer to my tastes. I'm not locked in yet, and some variation seems natural anyway - so don't hold back (ie it's not a stylistic choice - yet ). What do you dislike about the red? Again, I'm struggling to nail my recipe with the new colours - and all of the Citadel Colour recipes I try end up too orange for my liking - so it can't be that
Yeah, the paint system got me to switch to Vallejo for a number of colours. I despise the whole base-layer-drybrush thing GW has going, since it's just a different amount of water added to the paints- and they messed up all the colours. There's quite a few reference charts who coppare GW colours to Vallejo, and some are a perfect match.
For the grot, a sepia wash over the skin may help out a lot to bring it to life, adding some yellow in there? The red is a bit too pale for me to work on the gun, and seems placed in a rather haphazard way, as an afterthought almost. It's a small gun with metal, bronze, and red, which simply is a lot to me. I'd make it a deep crimson there if I wanted a red accent, to 'pop' a bit more. For crimson these days I do red gore follow by a red gore/tau ochre mix, and the a brown or black wash over it.
Thankfully I too have few completed models on 25mm bases that are now 32mm. Let's call that forward planning and leave it at that . I don't plan to rebase anything completed, and I don't think anything signifcantly "in progress" requires a base change - so it should be just unfinished models going forward. The Kommandos and one of the Meks is probably the first and last of the most challenging I'll face.
I like the forward planning . I'm going to rebase them all, since it's only like 20-25 models: 10 burna boyz, 6 or 7 lootas, and 5-6 tankbustas. If I had to rebase 100 models, I wouldn't even consider it .
I had wondered if anyone would question the black marker . All seven boyz have it. I actually put a lot more Sluggas (and Shootas) together when I did these (years ago) - enough to fill out my existing units to 20 or 30 models. You may notice that they are all based on Assault on Black Reach bodies, which leads to a bit of uniformity, which no Ork likes. So the markings simply designate which unit they were meant to join, in order to spread the similiarities evenly. Therefore, all seven boyz here were meant to join the same unit. Of course, what that means is I've messed up - because if I want to paint them in different Dark Angelz schemes, that will necessarily put them in different units .
Nice idea! If you want to change them up, a quick cut at the wrist/shoulder will allow for plenty of weapon swaps and repositioning, and adding stuff to shoulder pads and adding/removing topknots also works out nicely.
Nice work on the bases, I actually have a bunch of watch parts for convertin' stuff up, they're very nice (if very fiddly)
Engine's looking good, and following GW instructions is always a bit of a gamble- I actually started reading fully trough the booklets after a few mishaps with my kans and dreads where the instructions where unclear...
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/12/28 10:24:12
Camkhieri: "And another very cool thing, my phones predictive text actually gave me chicken as an option after typing robot, how cool is that."'
Meercat: "All eyes turned to the horizon and beheld, in lonely and menacing grandeur, the silhouette of a single Grot robot chicken; a portent of evil days to come."
From 'The Plucking of Gindoo Phlem'
@CommissarKhaine: My main frustration with the paint system is that all of my old personal and 'Eavy Metal Masterclass recipes now need translation, and then the translations aren't always agreeable (not even trying for perfect) matches - if they even exist. Some of my old paints are still workable - but they will run out eventually. Of course, all of the new tutorials use the new paints... I don't see much difference between the base-layer-drybrush and the previous foundation-colour situation other than more vibrant base colours - but then, I haven't bought or used a dry paint yet as I haven't seen the need. I should be more open to other brands, I'm not sure why I haven't branched out in that direction yet... probably just familiarity and resistance to change .
I'll be trying different base coats - Warboss Green (I've already base coated two more with this), Deathworld Forest (used in Goff gretchin video link above) and Waaagh! Flesh (used in a lot of the Moonclan Grots videos, not linked) - and different washes - Biel-tan Green, Athonian Camoshade - I'll definitely add Serpahim Sepia to that mix. No doubt this will be the same for the Orks as well (although presumably on the darker side).
I'm glad I pushed you on the gun, and I'm glad you took the time to reply. I think there is a little stylistic difference between us here, but most of it is actually useful to me and thought provoking - and I wouldn't want to lose that under the banner of stylistic differences .
I think we can leave the red itself aside for now. I'm not sure if "too pale" and "too orange" equate, but basically I need to practise more red recipes. What is the current equivalent of Red Gore? And are you using the current Tau Light Ochre or is that the older colour name as well?
Now the fun part. The red placement on the gun was my basic Dark Angelz red gun casings. To elaborate, it is usually (because Ork guns differ wildly) the main part of the gun, and often includes raised details - studs, glyphs, that sort of thing. It is rarely a moving part and never a barrel. By this definition I could have done the sight red as well. Usually the sight is a raised detail on the red casing (of an Ork gun) that I pick out in metal, so I stayed with that. Regardless, quoting Barbossa "They're more what you'd call guidelines than actual rules". This is what I suspect is our stylistic difference.
But - two things have interfered with the above that your comments have allowed me to realise and therefore (re)consider. Firstly, I followed the Goff Gretchin video above, which uses bronze to break up metallic details, without considering that, with the addition of the red, I had less metallic details to break up. Secondly, I've applied Ork thinking to Grotz - or more specifically, I haven't fully realised the impact of scaling a paint scheme down to a smaller canvas (especially when adding additional colours).
My first thoughts are, I don't need the bronze at all. On the gun I could either simply replace the bronze with red, or replace the bronze with metal and perhaps replace the sight in red. The sword grip bronze could be red or dark green.
I'll will ponder this more thoroughly for the rest of them. So thank you again for drawing my attention to it.
I have 41 completed models that could be rebased, mostly Ork Boyz.
Apparently those marked seven Sluggas were all there were. They are supposed to be already changed up, so I'm not doing any more modifications to them. I've also rounded up a non marked Slugga and a Shoota to rebase so that I can test my paint schemes across members of different mobs.
@Viterbi: .
Finally, the real meat and potatoes, my finished grot (minus glamour shots):
Last minor bits of progress in the spoiler:
Spoiler:
Various layers - let's see if I remember them all.... Moot Green, Wild Rider Red, Tuskgor Fur. Reapplied Rakarth Flesh to the bandages and followed up with Pallid Wych Flesh. Reapplied Morghast Bone to the teeth and claws and followed up with... Pallid Wych Flesh too?
Rhinox Hide for scratches. Studs and scratches in Leadbelcher. Studs washed in Nuln Oil. Studs and scratches highlighted with Runefang Steel. Mourfang Brown on the base.
Finally basing - dry brushed Skrag Brown, Deathclaw Brown and Ushabti Bone. Repainted the rim in Mournfang Brown. Added grass - done!
(Also finally caught the bottom of the grip!)
Finally, not sure if the Dakka Painting Challenge Round 71 January 2021 Subject Poll is still open, but it is looking likely to be "New Tricks". Can't decide between my first Dark Eldar miniature (a Mandrake) of if I should attempt orange and paint up a Squeaky WAAAGH!!!! grot .
Interesting too and fro on painting styles. I quite like the red on the gun, especially as your waagh is dark angels theme. As for the bronze, it looks good on the knife, breaking up the iron, but it does make the small gun too busy.
the main bit is usually called the receiver, where the serial number is usually stamped. Most ork guns also have a casing too and I’m pretty sure they won’t have serial numbers :nerd:
Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and Void Panther Marines, with side projects along the way
@gobert: Interesting indeed. Your agreeance on the bronze making the small gun too busy has been duly noted.
Okay - I'm not a gun enthusiast, but I do understand the value of proper nomenclature - so thank you for catching me out there. Don't you realise it takes me long enough to craft these posts as it is? Anyway, post some research, let's see if I can describe the red placement more accurately.
The red placement on the gun was my basic Dark Angelz red gun housing body or hand guard. To elaborate, it is usually (because Ork guns differ wildly) the main visible part of the gun, and often includes raised details - studs, glyphs, that sort of thing. It is rarely a moving part (the action, or in this case, the cyclinder) and never a barrel (Note: most Ork guns only show the muzzle, the rest of the barrel being hidden within the housing body). By this definition I could have done the sight (which in this case appears to be part of the frame or receiver) red as well. Usually the sight is a raised detail on the red housing body (of an Ork gun) that I pick out in metal, so I stayed with that.
So the grot revolver threw me off a number of ways, what with the frame/receiver (should probably be metal anyway) and barrel showing. Also, Ork guns could have serial numbers - who knows what piece of imperial tech they may have looted for a receiver? (I agree it is highly unlikely though.)
Moving along, I finished the glamour shots for the Grot for the Dakka Monthly Painting Challenge:
Which brings me to my first end of year in review post (well, in memory anyway). Let me present my work for 2020:
The Sister of Slaughter is currently in the Perth GW display cabinet, so wasn't available for the group shot.
I completed 19 models this year, consisting of 18 regular and 1 monster. 11 Limbo, 5 The Old World, 2 Warhammer 40K and 1 AoS.
I acquired 16 models this year, consisting of 12 regular, 3 cavalry and 1 vehicle. 12 Warhammer 40K, 3 Underworlds and 1 AoS.
My pile of shame goals were:
Complete more models than I add.
Complete a minimum of 10 models (based on entering 10 rounds of the Dakka Monthly Painting Competition this year).
I'm counting this year a minor success on that front.
As for my original plans:
Arakasi wrote: So this is going to be part journey of discovery and rediscovery, part motivation, and probably a lot more paint and less modelling than those that may have followed on with my previous endeavours might expect.
To start with, I'll be exploring the fine art of paint stripping - as I attempt to strip the paint from some old metal minis that I lost interest in decades ago due to a bad primer. From there, I hope to move to paint experimentation on those minis in preparation for tackling Rippa's Snarlfangs and (some of) Limbo. With a bit of luck that might inspire me to revisit my Imperial Knights and Orks - but we'll see how we go.
Check on paint stripping and (some of) Limbo, minor check on revisiting my Orks, didn't really progress far on paint experimentation on stripped models or tackling Rippa's Snarlfangs or my Imperial Knights.
January and February was paint stripping.
March was the 61st Dakka Painting Challenge: Space Marines. I entered a Deathwing Terminator, managing 12 out of 321 votes coming equal 8th with 2 others out of 36 contestents for 4 points/percent.
April was the 62nd Dakka Painting Challenge: Pile of Shame. I entered four Chaos Warriors, managing 21 out of 514 votes coming 5th out of 36 contestents for 4 points/percent. This also included my experimentations with Martian Ironearth for doing lava bases (Note: use Mordant Earth instead), using green stuff press molds for shield iconography and tattoos.
May was the 63rd Dakka Painting Challenge: Old School Cool. I entered Manfred, Heroic Fighter of the Known World, managing 9 out of 382 votes coming equal 20th with 2 others out of 36 contestents for 2 points/percent. I entered the 32nd League of Extraordinary Riveters Terrain Competition: Honor Our First Responders, but sadly made no progress.
June saw me start to work on an Ork Mobile Klinik for the LoER, and prep a Grot Orderly and Ammo Runt for the 64th Dakka Painting Challenge: In A Supporting Role, but, I fell off the wagon. I worked out Mournfang Brown was a close enough match to my existing Da Dark Angelz base rims.
July and August I was AWOL. I missed the LoER deadline as well as the 65th Dakka Painting Challenge: Objective Secured and the 66th Dakka Painting Challenge: Mastermind.
September was the 67th Dakka Painting Challenge: The Long War. I entered 5 Ossilyte Guard (Limbo), managing 19 out of 519 votes coming 10th out of 38 contestents for 4 points/percent. I actually completed all 10 Ossilyte Guard, where I learnt the anti joy of PVC plastic and confirmed that I should no longer attempt to batch paint miniatures. I entered the 33rd League of Extraordinary Riveters Terrain Unfinished Business with my unfinished Ork Mobile Klinik from the previous round.
October was the 68th Dakka Painting Challenge: Halloween Special. I entered Moucrum (Limbo), managing 17 out of 631 votes coming 13th out of 40 contestents for 3 points/percent. I also put together some Back 2 Base-ix acrylic paint and tool racks and made some progress on my LoER entry.
November was the 69th Dakka Painting Challenge: Saints and Sinners. I entered a Sister of Slaughter, managing 9 out of 426 votes coming 21st out of 32 contestents for 2 points/percent. I made a lot of progress on my LoER entry, but it wasn't anywhere near enough and I ended up bowing out again.
December was the 70th Dakka Painting Challenge: Open Round. I entered a Grot - but voting has not even begun yet! As part of the preparation for the Grot, I based and undercoated 10 Grots, ready for when the painting muse takes me. I also rebased 11 Orks to 32mm bases, ready to be undercoated (learning that I shouldn't batch build anymore either), and started on the Boomdakka Snazzwagon.
I'm currently equal 18th on the Dakka Painting Challenge League Table with 17 points (although November's scores have not yet been added). Had I even got only 2 points in each of the three months I missed, I'd be equal 10th. This is important in respect to my goals for next year, which are currently:
Arakasi's Goals for 2021:
Complete twice or more models than I add.
Complete a minimum of 20 models.
Complete a minimum of 10 Da Dark Angelz models.
Place in the top 10 of the Dakka Painting Challenge League Table.
Comment on the Dakka Painting Challenge entries.
Finish a LoER entry.
Catchya,
Arakasi
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/01/03 02:36:41
@CommissarKhaine: My main frustration with the paint system is that all of my old personal and 'Eavy Metal Masterclass recipes now need translation, and then the translations aren't always agreeable (not even trying for perfect) matches - if they even exist. Some of my old paints are still workable - but they will run out eventually. Of course, all of the new tutorials use the new paints... I don't see much difference between the base-layer-drybrush and the previous foundation-colour situation other than more vibrant base colours - but then, I haven't bought or used a dry paint yet as I haven't seen the need. I should be more open to other brands, I'm not sure why I haven't branched out in that direction yet... probably just familiarity and resistance to change .
I know your pain, finding a substitute for a proper orange has been a journey in itself. INSTAR make matching paints, but I've read some mixed recview. My ecperience with them is good though, FWIW. My issue with the new paints is that I'd rather decide the consistency of my paints myself. Making a paint more opaque is easy, but getting a layer paint to cover properly over black is a bit more of a challenge- and they don't necessarily have the matching colour as a base paint. . If you want to switch over: there's quite a few colour comparison charts that greatly help out, since they also list the old citadel paint names. Here's the one I use.
I'll be trying different base coats - Warboss Green (I've already base coated two more with this), Deathworld Forest (used in Goff gretchin video link above) and Waaagh! Flesh (used in a lot of the Moonclan Grots videos, not linked) - and different washes - Biel-tan Green, Athonian Camoshade - I'll definitely add Serpahim Sepia to that mix. No doubt this will be the same for the Orks as well (although presumably on the darker side).
Interesting; I never use these videos, may have to look at them, thanks for pointing them out!
I'm glad I pushed you on the gun, and I'm glad you took the time to reply. I think there is a little stylistic difference between us here, but most of it is actually useful to me and thought provoking - and I wouldn't want to lose that under the banner of stylistic differences .
Fair enough, and happy to help out with my nagging .
I think we can leave the red itself aside for now. I'm not sure if "too pale" and "too orange" equate, but basically I need to practise more red recipes. What is the current equivalent of Red Gore? And are you using the current Tau Light Ochre or is that the older colour name as well?
Khorne Red is the replacement for Red Gore and a good match; The colour I use is indeed Tau Light Ochre, since most of my browns have been victims of dryed-put paint pots
Now the fun part. The red placement on the gun was my basic Dark Angelz red gun casings. To elaborate, it is usually (because Ork guns differ wildly) the main part of the gun, and often includes raised details - studs, glyphs, that sort of thing. It is rarely a moving part and never a barrel. By this definition I could have done the sight red as well. Usually the sight is a raised detail on the red casing (of an Ork gun) that I pick out in metal, so I stayed with that. Regardless, quoting Barbossa "They're more what you'd call guidelines than actual rules". This is what I suspect is our stylistic difference.
But - two things have interfered with the above that your comments have allowed me to realise and therefore (re)consider. Firstly, I followed the Goff Gretchin video above, which uses bronze to break up metallic details, without considering that, with the addition of the red, I had less metallic details to break up. Secondly, I've applied Ork thinking to Grotz - or more specifically, I haven't fully realised the impact of scaling a paint scheme down to a smaller canvas (especially when adding additional colours).
My first thoughts are, I don't need the bronze at all. On the gun I could either simply replace the bronze with red, or replace the bronze with metal and perhaps replace the sight in red. The sword grip bronze could be red or dark green.
I'll will ponder this more thoroughly for the rest of them. So thank you again for drawing my attention to it.
Most welcome, happy to be part of the support that dakka always tries to give! is Now that you mentioned it, I went through your dark angelz thread and see how it matches the ork guns. Scale is definitely an issue here, worded better than I could. I will admit though that the effect is bothering me less once the weathering and the metal rivets have been applied (and the bronze made more pale with the highlight) - still a bit busy for me though. Painting details in different colours is something that I've moved away from a bit, because it removes some 'depth' from the painting if every little raised detail is in a different colour. A 'less is more' approach and editing really matter, especially on smaller models.
I have 41 completed models that could be rebased, mostly Ork Boyz.
Feasible goal then. I almost finished my first 5, will need to get some bigger bases first though. PSA: old flying bases are 32mm diameter as well .
Finally, not sure if the Dakka Painting Challenge Round 71 January 2021 Subject Poll is still open, but it is looking likely to be "New Tricks". Can't decide between my first Dark Eldar miniature (a Mandrake) of if I should attempt orange and paint up a Squeaky WAAAGH!!!! grot .
Only one choice, really
Spoiler:
Loving the year overview, some interesting models in there.I'm looking forward to what you'll cook up in 2021! Best wishes!
Camkhieri: "And another very cool thing, my phones predictive text actually gave me chicken as an option after typing robot, how cool is that."'
Meercat: "All eyes turned to the horizon and beheld, in lonely and menacing grandeur, the silhouette of a single Grot robot chicken; a portent of evil days to come."
From 'The Plucking of Gindoo Phlem'
@CommissarKhaine: Thanks for the colour comparison chart link - that should solve most of my issues (especially old paints without new counterparts - although it doesn't appear to be an exact science, I'm not sure I would equate Mephiston Red and Mechrite Red...) Khorne Red was coming up in some other recipes I was looking at - so that seems very promising.
It's a very rare occasion I both know exactly what I like and can enunciate it effectively on my first attempt, which is why this back and forth is so beneficial and I appreciate it greatly. It's also good for weeding out blind spots. If it helps anyone else, so much the better.
I forgot about that model . I feel like I need an Ork putting down a Squeaky Waaagh!! rebellion to answer that, not start adding rebellionists to my ranks - maybe if I ever do a Shook Attack Gun .
@Everyone: Of course I missed one of my goals for next year. Entry above has been updated.
Hehe, sorry for the nerd post. I’ll not add to the nerdiness by getting in to defining the receiver of rotary cannons!
A thorough recapping of the year, great job being restrained to the point of painting more than you bought, that’s a great achievement in and of itself!
The grot came out great, maybe the Watchers in the Dark are actually grots?
Happy New Year, good luck with the new goals
Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and Void Panther Marines, with side projects along the way
Stolen from Maharg's 2020 goals - I'm updating "Complete more models than I add" to "Complete twice or more models than I add".
Adding "Complete a minimum of 10 Da Dark Angelz models" - I'd like to put some focus on my Orks this year.
I forgot to add the Sister of Slaughter to the list of purhcased (acquired?) models.
Finally, some actual 2021 Hobby:
Slugga and Shoota, based, to allow me to test all three Da Dark Angelz themes now.
Drukhari Mandrake based on a tactical skull - my entry for the above linked Dakka Painting Challenge: New Tricks. This will be my first Drukhari and first Finecast miniature that I have painted. I'm planning on the GW colour scheme as it is the example I like the most.
While trying to pick out a grot for a Squeaky WAAAGH!!!! rebellionist, I realised it wasn't going to provide much area for "practising" orange. I'll do one on the side still, just not for this month's competition.
Catchya,
Arakasi
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/01/03 02:43:04
@CommissarKhaine: Thanks for the colour comparison chart link - that should solve most of my issues (especially old paints without new counterparts - although it doesn't appear to be an exact science, I'm not sure I would equate Mephiston Red and Mechrite Red...) Khorne Red was coming up in some other recipes I was looking at - so that seems very promising.
Most welcome! I'm happy with the khorne red: it's a solid crimson, and covers nicely. I agree not all colours on the charts are a 100% match, but it's as close as they get and a good starting point.
It's a very rare occasion I both know exactly what I like and can enunciate it effectively on my first attempt, which is why this back and forth is so beneficial and I appreciate it greatly. It's also good for weeding out blind spots. If it helps anyone else, so much the better.
Same here, especially since English is only my 3rd language (well 2nd best that I speak/write tbh, french has take a bit of a back seat). It's also why I like dakka: I've always found it to be a very helpful environment.
I forgot about that model . I feel like I need an Ork putting down a Squeaky Waaagh!! rebellion to answer that, not start adding rebellionists to my ranks - maybe if I ever do a Shook Attack Gun .
I'l admmit shokk attack guns are brilliant for that .
That mandrake will be an interesting model, and one where the missing details/bubbles from being finecast can be explained away by 'it's a mandrake' - clever choice
While trying to pick out a grot for a Squeaky WAAAGH!!!! rebellionist, I realised it wasn't going to provide much area for "practising" orange. I'll do one on the side still, just not for this month's competition.
I agree; you should do a vehicle and start a squeaky waagh!! offfshoot . On a more serious note: it will be interesting to see what you come up with!
Camkhieri: "And another very cool thing, my phones predictive text actually gave me chicken as an option after typing robot, how cool is that."'
Meercat: "All eyes turned to the horizon and beheld, in lonely and menacing grandeur, the silhouette of a single Grot robot chicken; a portent of evil days to come."
From 'The Plucking of Gindoo Phlem'
. Glad to see the Dark Angels growing 
Imperial Knights: The Avengers Initiative
Da Dark Angelz
Arakasi vs Infinity
. Hopefully they will hold!
. I can always use the Burnas as actual Burnas, but those Meks will always have extremely impressive Kustom Mega-Blastas/Sluggas...
Let's call that forward planning and leave it at that 
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I'm not convinced I can't wait until it is attached to the chassis, but I'll dry fit and see what I think later.
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the main bit is usually called the receiver, where the serial number is usually stamped. Most ork guns also have a casing too and I’m pretty sure they won’t have serial numbers :nerd: 
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