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Made in de
Shroomin Brain Boy





Berlin Germany

the end product totally doesn´t give away how you made it...excellent method...something i really need to do on my own too...! nothing sad about this tut at all...
but the side comment...i hope you feel better soon...try to catch a sun beam! it really helps...!

as for your other works...unparalleled...absolutely brilliant work!

   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut




Rugby

Loving what you’ve be coming up with recently Cam, you have certainly been very productive, looking forward to more
   
Made in gb
Mysterious Techpriest







Incredible Cam that support is really quite amazing.

I really envy your ability to sculpt a head just like that.




 
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Gargantuan Great Squiggoth





Not where I should be

Thank you all for your support and kind words.

Productivity is a bit slow at the moment, hope to get a boost soon.

What have I been doing well knocked these up...

Going to cast them and use as Imperial wall panelling, though I think I might have my scales off, these are 100mm x 60mm.

And a walk way...


And a corner capping, this again will be molded and cast...


Talking of casting got this lot done before Red went and made me rethink a bit...

No worries though.

Been working on the GUO a bit too, but not sure, might show some progress tomorrow to see what you think...

Thanks for looking in, and always please feel free to comment and critique, it is how we grow.




 
   
Made in de
Shroomin Brain Boy





Berlin Germany

Are these rivets made from finger nails art beads? And if so, what size? Walls look super, I am currently hot on your trail with stuff like this but a more wooden approach tho...hopefully I can show off some of my work tonight...

I wish I had the balls to cast, the possibilities are endless then...*sigh*


Automatically Appended Next Post:
The corner looks beautiful, but the pic is craps...better pics please...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/02/12 07:28:38


   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Gargantuan Great Squiggoth





Not where I should be

Thanks Vik,

No it is that nail paint I was on about a while ago. Keep trying it out. Will get you better pics later.

Just thought I would drop this off, a quick how to....

The professional way to pin a joint...
Spoilered for the sensitive....
Spoiler:




More proper stuff later.




 
   
Made in us
Combat Jumping Ragik






Beyond the Beltway

Y'know Cam, I would have time to make plenty of updates, except that I end up spending it all trying to keep with your prolific output.

You can always repurpose the skull festooned bits for something else.

Painting a few layers of clear gloss over the eyes of that eagle head will give it a nice realistic effect.

Hmmm, looks like those bolts in your femur are lacking nuts. They'll eventually work lose.


The corner capping looks aces. Easiest way to track scale is use an engineer's ruler, the 1:50 scale side.


 Viktor von Domm wrote:
...try to catch a sun beam!
In Scotland, during the winter? Vik, you are too cruel. But good advice to get outside for a bit. Fresh air does a body good.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2018/02/12 18:22:28


 
   
Made in de
Shroomin Brain Boy





Berlin Germany

Cruelness...? Well, we still don't know his current available movement options...might be even a wheely...

That really looks like you are screwed...er...too soon..?

I meant acrylic beads those Chinese nail art studios girls glue to to way too ugly chicks finger nails... got me a zillion of these in different sizes sir to from China...on plastic I dare say there is nothing better for rivets...the shape is excellent...

Didn't mean any puffy paint, but beads...

Well...

Also, since you grow malt and stuff in Scotland you need sun light... even on that poor island there is some odd sunshine to be caught...how on earth would they be able to make scotch otherwise? I am dreading now the answer...

   
Made in us
Combat Jumping Ragik






Beyond the Beltway

Yeah, I was referring to the lack of sunlight in Scotland during the winter, not mobility. Days are very short thereabouts, as you know. (apparently 9.5 hours right now).
Your Summer days are crazy long. I don't see how you Northern Europeans stand it. ~16-17 hours of daylight? Madness.

Cam, have you ever used something like these, especially the 1mm version, to make rivets? https://www.amazon.com/IRISFLY-10pcs-Leather-Hollow-Gasket/dp/B01L9CTMWE/ref=sr_1_5?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518282584&sr=8-5&keywords=hollow+punch&refinements=p_76%3A2661625011 I'm debating whether to get some and try 'em out. Eventually.

Edit to add the word summer. Mondays are crazy long too, sometimes

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/02/12 23:30:03


 
   
Made in de
Shroomin Brain Boy





Berlin Germany

red, i know that dave used these occasionally and good ones might be a reall help...

i got cheap ones and i have to say...i hate them...for rivets i can´t recommend them at all... either the material gets not cut the way you want it...inconsistent cuts...and then the act of hammering each rivet...well, for me all that loud noise...i react very uneasy to these loud noises even tho i produce them (is that understandable?)...i flinch each time...

what i would suggest, provided you work with plastic card and plastic glue:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nail-Art-Halbperlen-Acryl-50-Stuck-2-mm-Weis-Perlen-weiss-Schmucksteine/181270388519?hash=item2a348e9f27:gLAAAOxy4t1SleJs


these are very cool microbeads from acrylic...and bond like a charm...easy application...

i have somewhere a really good provider...but forgot the link...the above is just to show what i am bragging about^^

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Wisconsin

Too many updates Cam, I cant keep up! Everything is looking solid as does your hip. Hope you are feeling better.
   
Made in us
Combat Jumping Ragik






Beyond the Beltway

Ja, Ich verstehe dich. Loud noises make me a bit psychotic. I avoid movie theaters these days. Too loud. I have excellent ear protection though as so hammering away won't be a problem for me.

I have a pillow full of beads like that. Hmm....

 
   
Made in gb
Omnious Orc Shaman





A long time ago in a galaxy far, far, away...

Is that hip joint not magnetised???

Your production line is incredible - remind us (me) what you use to cast your creations? Did you have a tutorial somewhere as well?

   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Gargantuan Great Squiggoth





Not where I should be

Thank you all.

@ Red and Vik, I am with Vik, I have tried them and they are just not that good , very similar results to the leather punch pliers you get, not clean enough, noisy and not efficient enough. Best method for bulk rivets I have found is my silly pressed recessed rivets with nail punches or possibly a soldering iron. But if you want a surface mounted rivet, Viks little "beads" are brilliant. Lastly I would say that my favourite method, is not efficient or easy, but I simply really enjoy it, styrene rod, cut into tiny pieces and using a pin, place them on glue, after they are placed a "flash" over with a blow torch and the ends round off. This whole process is true riveteer zen, it will take you a whole evening to do a tank, you settle down with a glass, and some good music and you are rewarded with pure tranquillity and a wonderful model. So in answer Red, I would not bother bud.

@ Ruglud, Think I will do a proper bit on it, still people a bit afraid of it, and it simply is not that hard. Will look into it today sir.

OK, so, update of sorts...

For Vik, better shots, this is a cast in plaster of the corner...




Walk way, the texture is from jointing "tape" for plaster board, couple quid for a roll at builders merchants, it is self adhesive though I have used a contact glue to stick it down.


Yes a bit more done on the GUO, scale shot first...


This is sculpted from a tin foil "armature" a lot of hot glue, and that super clay stuff, it is a bit fragile I will say at mo, but hope to cure that...and yes I am a weirdo cus I paint and model and sculpt all at the same time....


Thoughts as always are welcome, thank you so much for your support.






 
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Madison, WI

That GUO is very good Cam. Love the expression on his face and the marks on his chest looks like healing from having his chest "cracked open" (as in, by a surgeon... or perhaps an axe).

   
Made in nz
Strategizing Grey Knight Chapter Master





Auckland New Zealand

Oooh gross and awesome all at the same time!

IceAngel wrote:I must say Knightley, I am very envious of your squiggle ability. I mean, if squiggles were a tactical squad, you'd be the sergeant. If squiggles were an HQ, you'd be the special character. If squiggles were a way of life, you'd be Doctor Phil...
The Cleanest Painting blog ever!
Gitsplitta wrote:I am but a pretender... you are... the father of all squiggles. .
 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







Good work all round.

Nice organic look to your sculpting. Does the job.


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran




Canada

Loving the set Cam, hopefully the hip doesn't hurt too much.

(60) Successful Trades With: coffinofstone (x2), Mike94656, kungfujew, LOS Not Needed, Uriels_Flame (x3), redthirst, Lehnsherr, VostroyanFirstClass (x4), midget_overlord, Timofeo, Makutsu, Eclipseone (x2), Krug001, JHall, Neomagicwarrior, Vygoth, Eldarain (x5), Green is Best!, Acardia, Exalbaru, ephrael, MadCowCrazy, pretre, kusanagi68, Theevilone, bd1085, wreeper007, Soccerlfb6, bagelboy71, Masakik, xghostmakerx, Mecha_buddha, Grimwulfe, saleen302 (2), thormar, manvas, iStompya, Farboozle, GearheadXII (x2), Spartan289, marcus.iscariat, Sannaga, Spikes, Gamerely, Catfiish, Physh, skavenmatt

YouTube channel for new batreps and other content: https://www.youtube.com/c/TheBasementCollective
Like us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TBMCV 
   
Made in us
Combat Jumping Ragik






Beyond the Beltway

Thanks Cam, Vik. I'll try the microbeads when I get around to rivetting again. I have an idea for some old tank hulls that I have lying around. Something for the future though, when I can 'hobby' again with any sort of regularity. I've use the polystrene rod technique before. Ugh.

I've thought about using that joint tape before. Not just for walkway texture but as fencing and in windows. Never got around to using it that way. I have used for actual drywall work though.

Good progress on the Big Guy.


 
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut







Love your corner piece!

In our Late July/August here in Indiana, we have about 16 hours of daylight a day. But winter.....dark, grey skies, cold, wet. Dark all the time

"dave you are the definition of old school..." -Viktor Von Domm My P&M Blog :
It's great how just adding a little iconography, and rivets of course, can make something look distinctly 40K-adamsouza
"Ah yes, the sound of riveting.....Swear word after swear word and the clinking of thrown tools" "Nope. It sucks do it again..."- mxwllmdr
"It puts together more terrain, or else it gets the hose again...-dangledorf2.0
"This is the Imperium, there is no peace, there are only rivets" -Vitruvian XVII
"I think rivets are the perfect solution to almost every problem"- Rawson
More buildings for the Building God! -Shasolenzabi
 
   
Made in us
Combat Jumping Ragik






Beyond the Beltway

Sounds like an Illinois winter. Dave, longest day is the Summer Solstice in June. Usually. Here https://www.timeanddate.com/sun/usa/indianapolis?month=6&year= From what I see, it is ~15 hours in Indianapolis.

But you Hoosiers don't do the Daylight Savings time, so maybe that's the thing? And do have grey skies instead of gray skies? Well, Governor Pence instead of Governor Penny, so... (Sorry, I do like the language/spelling humo[u]r. I'll show myself out.)

I was amazed to see how close to the Arctic circle Scotland is.

Cam, MDF is the devil. Shun it. Never praise it.

The joint tape, never used it that way. As fencing, grating and window dressing, oh and as actual joint tape. ( I do hate drywall work though.) What sort did you use/ It looks like the thin nylon stuff.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/02/15 06:07:37


 
   
Made in nz
Tough Tyrant Guard





Auckland, NZ

That GUO is coming along nicely... looks good and disgusting!

Hive Fleet Ngaro 4800 points
Cult of the Red Saviour 1700 points
Zerg Infested Terrans 2300 points

P&M thread http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/592277.page 
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Gargantuan Great Squiggoth





Not where I should be

Thank you all.

Had a funny kinda couple of days, hope to snap out of it.

@ Red, yup, it is a thin nylon grid pattern. Quite strong, the glue on it is not that great, and now you have said it going to have a go at using it on some acetate, for windows.

Being quite far up, but not all the way, we have a fun time with the daylight. In the peak of summer it is sometimes only really dark for about 3-4 hours, and in the dead of winter we can be down to 7-8 hours of daylight, it is typically British, not extreme, but different, I come from the south, and it is a marked difference up here. The other thing is (again a British thing) the local population is tiny really, Britain is what 60 million now, Scotland is only about 6 million of that and 5 million of that live in the "Central Belt" of Edinburgh and Glasgow, you get up here and there is nobody about. Thus in my previous job doing 450 miles a day travelling between 4 or 5 police stations. Or my current job delivering groceries "locally" and my average run is 150 miles, sometimes do two runs a day. The point there is no light pollution, you get outside of town and it is black at night, real dark, not that moonlight night or any of that, just bloody black. See lots of stars though. If we ever get a clear night.

OK modelling.
Thought about making an Article for this, and started getting a head ache reading the tutorial for making an article, so it will live here for now. Maybe I will dedicate a day to Indexing my OP for this blog.

Molding and casting.

I have talked about it before, and many others are much better than me at it, but in typical Cam ham fisted fashion, I have a "method" that suits me.

Materials.

I use various types:
For molds I use Plastacine, Bluestuff, Silicone and a silly reusable seaweed thing, even hotglue. It depends on what I am casting.
Plastacine is a quick and dirty mold material. I will cover it below, but it is great for a quick one off item.
Bluestuff, or Instant mold sticks, dozens of videos and tutorials out there, can get it from Greenstuffworld, Simply put it into some hot water, and once it softens up, press it onto the item you want to mold, let it cool and you have a semi-rigid mold.
Composi Mold, Seaweed algea thingy....here is a link...http://composimoldstore.com/all-products/composimold-original/ bought it a while ago, you heat it in the microwave for a few seconds and it is pourable, sets just like silicone, can be reused over and over, great for detail, but has it's limits. Biggest is that it is hot when you pour, which means you have to be careful what your original and mold box are made of.
Silicone, the best and by far the favourite. See below, but basically, it is the proper way to do this.

For casting I use Milliput/GS, Dental Plaster, resin, or Sculpy.

Epoxy putty, (Milliput/GS) mix it force it into your mold wait for it to cure, easy. But slow, and expensive. Also requires quite a firm mold, so really only any good with the Bluestuff.
Oven Drying Clay, (Sculpy or Fimo) can be used, but can be difficult, and you have to fire it to malke it hard.
Dental Plaster, just brilliant stuff, fast cheap and cheerful. Also dirty (get dust every where) and brittle., it is quite durable and there are tricks to be added, but generally if you drop it it is lost forever. Link...https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crystacal-R-Hard-White-High-Strength-Casting-Plaster-1kg/320974018802?epid=1465596656&hash=item4abb8ad8f2:g:XTUAAOSwgyxWXXuA You can get different casting plasters, but I use this stuff as it is extra hard, and fast setting.
Resin, simply the best. Hard wearing, fast setting, durable, takes paint, glues easy.

For resin and silicone I have tried many different ones and I have no doubt that many can suggest better products but I get mine from https://www.dwrplastics.com/home
I get this resin....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Low-Odour-Fast-Cast-Polyurethane-Liquid-Plastic-Casting-Resin-2kg-1-852-Litres/272684915961?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Biggest advantages no smell, very fast setting time. I find it is pretty good at picking up detail, most of the time.
And I get this silicone....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-RTV-Silicone-Moulding-Rubber-2-06kg-kit-Shore-A28-Fast-Curing/272583709635?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Again, fast setting time and no odour, excellent at details and long lasting molds.

Extras:
Scales, you cannot eyeball it all, most of it I do, but the silicone you definitely need scales for.
Mold release. I use cooking oil or Vaseline or Baby Talc. oil is good, but can obscure detail, vaseline is good, you need to brush it on. Talc is the best, it really helps the flow of plaster or resin in a mold.
Mixing equipement, either disposable (i.e. cups and wooden stirrers) or dedicated spatulas and bowls.

And now the biggest and most important part.....the original parts. Please do not use this to knock out a hundred Space marines, it is not cost effective, it is illegal, and it is simply stupid. Casting is not difficult and can be very effective. I use it for mass production of parts I need for me. Occasionally I will give away some of my casts, but I do not sell them. If you want any, just contact me and I will happily help you out, I have made molds before and sent them to friends (who then don't actually use them, but that is beside the point) I do make things with various parts and bits from all over, including things like a press mold of the aquila off a helmet or gun, adding detail to a model, but I feel it is pushing it to mold whole models. We need to support GW and all those other wonderful manufacturers out there, this is a wonderful hobby and I honestly do not believe it to be expensive. If I was a drinker, or smoked it would cost me more, my kids definitely spend more on the XBox and PS4 than I do, and I have more than I can ever make, and am fairly prolific. So yeah, OK, put an aquila on the side of your scratch built gun, add a vent to a tank hull, that is no worries in my book. Sculpt an original, and then make a hundred, and give them to your mates, or even sell them on the internet. I know that OMN used to do parts, not sure if he still does, and DrH, has a small side line of wonderful items for sale, I have bought many. I would not dream of casting their products, that would be truly despicable.


Gees long yak so far, OK

Plastacine molding....

Get an original part....in this case I carved a quick wheel from epvc board. Get a lump of plastacine, soften it by heating it in your hands. Press the original into the plastacine.

Carefully remove the original.

Pour in your chosen casting material, in this case Plaster.

Carefully remove the cast once set.

Now a few points. you will most likely destort the orignal mold a little with each cast, and it takes a bit of care to remove the items without damaging the mold, but you can always just remold the original each time if it bothers you.
In this case I have a wheel for use as basing, if I wanted to make wheels for vehicle, I would probably cast them in resin, and if I needed more than 4 I would make a silicone mold.


I am not going to cover all the methods here today, but will cover any you wish if requested, however I will now go through the Cam "datul do!" method, for silicone molds and casting.

Take your original and place it on some card..

You will note I have drawn around the part giving a gap of about 5-10mm all the way around, and I make sure that the flaps will give me a deep enough pool. Then cut and score the cardboard...

I use the "shiny" side of the card on the inside of the mold, that way the silicone has less to cling to. Next you hot glue the original in place and hot glue up all the corners, make sure to seal the whole corner..

Before you make your silicone, I cover the interior of the mold in vaseline, you could use oil, but not talc. This will help the silicone to release the original.
Mix your silicone following the instructions and pour it over the part make sure to cover the part with at least a few mm of silicone, now tap the mold, to knock out some of the bubbles. This is something I do not tend to suffer with, but there are some that are bothered.
Once it is cured, in the case of my choice of silicone, about 2-4hours, separate the original and after applying some talc to the interior of the mold, pour in your material, in this case Plaster.

Once that has cured remove your nice new part...


Last bit on casting is, always have something on hand to cast extra, you will always mess up the quantity required. If you are short, just quickly mix up some more and add it. If you have too much, have something on hand to cast spare...

Bulkhead lights!



Now with the dental plaster and most of the plasters I think, they do not fully cure for about 24 hours, so if you try and glue them or anything they tends to be a bit funny until tomorrow. However, I often will start painting my plaster casts nearly straight away..

No Primer...
Burnt Sienna...

Drybrush of metallic, and added some mucky paint. ( Note, the paint was mostly removed with a cotton bud and some water deliberately to look messy.)

Stipple on some Ryza Rust...

Then sponge on some "paint", to look worn...

Angrax ES..

Not tooo bad.


OK that is covering the easy one part drop mold type, it is really not very difficult to make 2 part molds for more complex parts, but this method is easy, and also, if worst comes, you can always make two half casts, and stick them together afterwards.

Really hope that helps some of you, and really hope you will have a go. It really opens up many opportunities. Any questions please ask, and of course you can always make comment or critique, and add to the descussion. I do recommend looking at other peoples efforts, I am lazy and rough and in the end I am happy with what I make, I do not mind cleaning it up a bit, or a bit of damage here and there, all adds character, but there are many who can call themselves pro's (OMN, DrH etc.) who I hope will add to this, and you should check them out.


Wow that was a biggy, thanks for looking, hope I did not scare you off.





 
   
Made in jp
Incorporating Wet-Blending





Japan

Thanks for putting this up. If I were a better scratch builder I would have to give this a try. Which means I need to start practicing my scratchbuilding.

Now showing more Mantic dwarfs, and also some hills!




Painting total as of 10/17/2019: 119 plus a wooden bridge and gnoll encampment and 36 pieces of Mantic scatter terrain and three fly holes and three farm buildings and a fire pit and two hills.


 
   
Made in au
Longtime Dakkanaut





Australia

Your work is top quality and your amount of work is eye watering.

Out of professional interest (my trade was all about casting) how do you overcome air bubbles when you cast, in particular, resin?

Do you use vacuum chamber or an additive in the resin? Or since you generally do open pour moulds you live with the bubbles on the back face?

See My Crazy Army plan here: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/521618.page#5517409
See the Fluff of my Crazy Army plan here: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/537440.page

2000 Point Armies
[40k] Murdochs 5th Armoured Detachment, 34/87th Tullarium Armour; Taskforce of the Garrsak Clan Company; Grimskragas Razorfangs, Guiding Light of Yarn Le'ath; Hive Fleet Acidica; XII Ambush Cell, Loyalists of the Twin Primarchs;

[Warhammer] The Obsidian Knightly Order; The Wondrous Caravan of the Traveller and his Maneaters; Bronze Host of Ka-Sabar; Dragonriders of Caledor; Vain Quest for the Grail, 11th Crusade of Araby; The Throng of Kark Veng; 
   
Made in gb
Humming Great Unclean One of Nurgle






Mostly, on my phone.

This is really excellent mate, and your weathering continues to inspire. I know what you mean about funny few days, we seem to be getting lost in our own heads. Geeklife helps though. Best, bro.

Theophony"... and there's strippers in terminator armor and lovecraftian shenanigans afoot."
Solar_Lion: "Man this sums up your blog nicely."

Anpu-adom: "being Geek is about Love. Some love broadly. Some love deeply. And then there are people like Graven.

 
   
Made in gb
Omnious Orc Shaman





A long time ago in a galaxy far, far, away...

Excellent tutorial. I shall be studying this in detail this weekend and maybe even put in an order or two on ebay. You da boss

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Wisconsin

Excellent tutorials Cam, being more of a painter than scratch builder I really appreciated your painting tutorial on the rusted door. Thanks!
   
Made in us
Combat Jumping Ragik






Beyond the Beltway

Living in the middle of the East Coast Megapolis, I've forgotten what the night sky looks like without light pollution :(

Have you ever tried the home-brew dental plaster, 1 part Portland Cement to 4 Parts Plaster of Paris? I keep meaning to try it, but RL keeps getting in the way.

A very useful set of tips etc. Perhaps mention something about the off-gassing some of the resins can produce? Do make an article from it. Remember, the articles can be edited too, to keep things up to date.

 
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Gargantuan Great Squiggoth





Not where I should be

Thank you all.

I ain't no scratch builder either guys, you just got to have a go.

@ Archer, Thanks bud, I do have issues at times with air bubbles, I tend to "high pour" most liquids, that is to pour it from a height and slowly giving it a thin stream and the air comes out ok, most of the time, as you say, I use one piece casts, and the back may get a bit bubbly but it does not really mater. Certainly nothing as fancy as a vacudooom chambler.

@ Red, I have heard of it, but have not bothered. I know for a silly large project it might work out on the price, but to be honest the value I am getting I am happy with. One big advantage over most is the setting and demold times. Only have to wait 15 minutes and I have a piece.

Talking of molds and waiting about.... here is what I did while a bit bored today, this is that base I had that tyre on....






Also while waiting for stuff got a pill box (got a few kicking about at mo.)...

Few added bits of card...

Primed with gesso, then burnt sienna and a drybrush of leadbelcher.

Coat after coat of paint building it up...


And scratching it off....

Signage...

Scuffed up and final shot...


Oh and I did a little work on that plynth once I had a few wall bits....


Thanks for looking folks, thoughts as always welcome....




 
   
 
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