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I've been through the tutorial section of Painting and Modeling with not much success.

I've made up a couple Obliterators and am having great trouble attaching them to the bases supplied.
Should I be using Green Stuff or copious amounts of super glue or what would you recommend?
Also is weighting the base an idea?

I use some Liquid Nails to attach metal to plastic. It also helps to put weights into the base.

I'm not totally familiar with building the current obilterators. Do they have pegs on their feet to attach to the base or a tab from one foot to the other?

If there's a peg on one foot then you might want to pin the second foot to the base to really secure it. Drill right through the base and fold the wire under, then also glue the wire to the underside of the base.

To help with the gluing score the metal where it makes contact with the plastic and vise versa.

Weighting the base is definitely an option if the model is tipping over a lot. Take a look at washers or lead shot of some kind if available.

The bigger models usually have a little stub under their feets. You will have to drill a little hole in the base for the stub, then just glue it to the base. Put your model on a piece of paper though incase the glue drips through, that way you won't glue your model to the table if that happens

For me though, I just snip off the stub and glue the model down flat foot bottom to flat base top. I've never had a problem with bases falling off in 15+ years...

Thanks for all the help so far guys, much appreciated.

The current obliterators do have stubs on one of the feet, just the other foot doesn't have much surface area contact with the base (only the toe part of the boot) because of the models stance.

This I find gives the model more of a forward center of gravity, making it topple over easier.

I'll give everything a try see what works best.

With the tabs on the bottom of the older type models it helps a lot to use a pair of needle nose pliers and give the tab a little twist, into kind of an "S" shape rather than flat and it will fit more tightly in the base. Failing that, repeated doses of superglue and Zipkicker (superglue accelerator) You can almost use superglue for putty with that stuff

Roughen the surface of the non-pinned foot (where it makes contact).

A small amount of superglue is all you really need and go easy on the zipkicker. It allows superglue to cure quicker, but the corresponding rise in temperature as it does so (the curve gets much steeper in a temp/time ratio) and could result in melting damage to the plastic as a result.

(A couple of drops of superglue on a cotton ball. Spray with zipkicker. Watch it burst into flame purely from the accelerated exo-thermic reaction.)

Latent Entropy wrote:Should I be using Green Stuff or copious amounts of super glue or what would you recommend?

Green Stuff isn't a great adhesive. And more superglue is worse than less, not better.

chromedog wrote:Roughen the surface of the non-pinned foot (where it makes contact).

Superglue actually gives the best results when it forms a super-thin film between two smooth surfaces. The old 'roughen up the surface' trick may seem at a glance like it should work, and with some types of adhesive it actually does... but with superglue it just results in more superglue in the join and less actual surface contact between the two surfaces being joined... which results in a more brittle joint.

Pin the foot through the base. Glue with either superglue or two part epoxy. Problem solved.

The same trick works with greenstuff, but is cheaper and faster this way. You can get a tube of plumber's putty for $3 or so in any DIY store, it's kinda like greenstuff except it's grey, smells a lot worse, dries a lot harder and a lot faster (under 5 min). You can mix up a small amount of it, use put a dab of glue down on the base and smush the putty into the glue, scraping off any excess (or modeling it into dirt) on the base and let it harden. Pull the model off, the putty will have a perfect indent of the bottom of the feet to glue the model to.

Also works great for assembling large metal figures, since it fills the gaps and makes a perfect match of the 2 pieces, just make sure you pull the pieces apart and glue them again, the putty works a lot better than GS but not as well as superglue

Also once you've glued the model in place, turn him upside down until the glue has dried.

If you want to weight the bases fill it with putty, GS, epoxy, etc. Or glue some metal flash/bits/etc to the underside of the base.