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Made in us
Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought





Boston, MA

Ok I did some extensive searching here and it seems like most folks recommend Simple Green, or Castrol Super Clean (cleaner-degreaser) for stripping paint.

However, does anyone have specific experience stripping an entire Rhino? ...how did you do it? ...and how did you deal with the inside etc... Best recommendations/suggestions?

Note: this Rhino has plastic parts, and Resin doors from FW.

Thanks!

Please check out my photo blog: http://atticwars40k.blogspot.com/ 
   
Made in us
Preacher of the Emperor





Michigan

Not a rhino, but I stripped a land raider by sticking it in a big bowl with some SG for a few weeks. It still needed some scrubbing afterwards, but came pretty clean.

I had the advantage in this case, though, that it had originally been assembled with super glue. Most of that came right apart after a few days, which made getting good coverage easier.

   
Made in us
Boom! Leman Russ Commander





Princeton, WV

Big Bucket of Blue Wolf mixed with some water.

Either that or bring plenty of $1.00 bills...
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block




Idaho, USA

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/207485.page

Should help a bit, best way to clean models IMHO.

Need a clue? Check the sprue.
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran






Blandford, MA

I haven’t done a Rhino but I did a ton of Crisis suites and did them all in SG.
Another option (my buddy does it and did two Rhino’s) is that he “heats” the SG not wicked hot but warmish, it appears SG is better heated? Or the paint softens more when warm/hot?
I haven’t read anything that states SG is heat activated but it does make sense.
What he has suggested and I’m going to be trying very soon is that he gets a plastic tub, margarine tub or some old tuperware your wife won’t kill you over and he puts the model in the tub and tops it off with SG then he pops it in the microwave, now we all know microwaves are all different so he does it for 1 minute but I would experiment or lower the heat settings and experiment…

For The Greater Good….. says who?
7000 pts + Going through a re-do & growing
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Made in us
Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought





Boston, MA

Marzooky wrote:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/207485.page

Should help a bit, best way to clean models IMHO.


Thanks guys... I had already bought some Castrol super cleaner-degreaser based on the above thread...

I am more specifically interested in the method you used on larger objects (space marine Rhino)... I don't have any bowls big enough, and typically I would use a glass jar for figures but the rhino won't fit... do you submerge the whole thing or parts?

Please check out my photo blog: http://atticwars40k.blogspot.com/ 
   
Made in us
Preacher of the Emperor





Michigan

If you CAN take it apart, I'd certainly recommend doing it by parts. Makes it a lot easier to get paint out of all those hard-to-reach places. Should make it easier to find things to submerge the pieces in too. Maybe try a large glass or something? Or just pick up a bowl or large tupperware container when you're out to use for stripping. You don't need a particularly nice one, and they're fairly cheap to come by.

It may seem like you're wasting a ton of cleaner in order to soak big items like this, but at least with SG, you can re-use it so that's not really an issue.

   
Made in us
Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought





Boston, MA

Do you know if Castrol cleaner-degreaser can be re-used?

Please check out my photo blog: http://atticwars40k.blogspot.com/ 
   
Made in us
Pyre Troll






most of the cleaning stuff suggested is reusable
as for when i've stripped rhinos, i let them soak for a couple days in one of those plastic tubs butter comes in (and it has a lid, so you don't have to terrible evaporation to worry about)
   
Made in us
Blood-Raging Khorne Berserker






I use metal coffee cans. Cheap, perfect size, and they have a pretty decent lid on them.

Really though, I think in a lot of cases for vehicles it's easier just to paint over the sucker. Unless the first guy just caked on the paint, the details are pretty forgiving. Never worked with Forge World quality stuff though and I wouldn't know anything about making something past "Table-top pretty" to "Showcase".

I do know that there's a thread on here about a guy "resurrecting" a forge-world superheavy IG tank (Baneblade probably). Long story short, the resin was pretty tough stuff and he literally used a knife to scrape the piece clean. I wouldn't do that with regular plastic, but I guess it worked well for the resin (The pics looked like it was new when he was done).

I'm not like them, but I can pretend.

Observations on complex unit wound allocation: If you're feeling screwed, your opponent is probably doing it right. 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





I use regular floor cleaner.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/03/28 12:24:12


 
   
 
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