Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

So I'm trying out some of the new paints and I can't help but feel like I could be doing better with them.
Does anybody have some advice for using these?


When drybrushing with the dry paint, it streaks a bit and looks dusty. This isn't what I'm looking for, it looks too messy and streak-y.
(yup, that's a word - it is now)
Should I just be dipping that straight out of the pot?
Perhaps I'm not using the right kind of brush for this?

And the glazes don't seem too much different than the old inks.
They just seem to darken the whole thing, is that right?
Again, should I just be dipping straight out of the pot and slathering it on?
These are to be a final step aren't they?


Aside from that, any advice, tips, or instructions?
The new paints seem great, so I want to make the best of them.

For the dries, use a GW drybrush. They may be expensive but they are great for it. Dip them in and use the tissue as you normally would (not THAT way) for drybrushing. The enhancment comes from the fact that the new dry paints are more powder based than regular ones.

As far as my limited knowledge on the glazes go,
They're basically there to subtly change the colour of the area painted, so give a yellow a more orangey hue or something.
Anyway that means get most of the glaze off on a tissue(or paper towel) before applying it to the area, aiming for an overall cover.
Unlike washes where you sort of were sort of going for seepage into the recesses.

Anyway this is just what i've perceived them as, never actually used them.

Dry compounds: Get some on the first 1/3 or 1/4 of your brush, wipe it off on a napkin until you aren't coloring the napkin with the stroke anymore. If you are getting streaks, you have too much paint loaded on your brush still. Wipe it off on a paper towel. Grainyness comes with proper drybrushing; It can be smoothed out with Washes/Shades/Glazes.

The glaze you can slather on like a wash. It won't seep into recesses on its own and you can move it around with a brush. Use liberally, it dries very thin and won't affect much.

Hm, I guess I just need some practice with it then.
I might prime up some more spare parts and mess around with it tonight.

Maybe it's just that I'm doing a bad job drybrushing.
I am using a GW Small Drybrush (like this http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470005a&prodId=prod20028a)
Although I've read that a rounded scrubber brush is even better (like this http://www.cheapjoes.com/prod/FS-SET/)

I did apply the glaze after drybrushing and it obscured most of the highlights created by drybrushing, and the messy streaks and grainy look remained. Again, maybe a better drybrushing job will solve this.




Ok, for another question.
Are the new "layer" paints any different than the old paints?
Is it worth getting one of the new ones if I have the same exact color in an old one?

For example - I paint Ultramarines and I use a lot of Regal Blue and Ultramarines Blue.
Kantor Blue and Calgar Blue are the same exact colors as the older ones, so is there any impressive quality of these that warrants me buying the new ones?
I mean, I don't need a new tub of Ultramarines Blue, I have one that's never even been opened.
Are these new "layer" paints somehow different? Are they at least 20% cooler?

They are thinning and don't require as must watering down.